Union in Seattle

[syd-vicious]

Thanks for the tip, T!

And, yes, thankfully the food part was positive. We'll be dining there tonight, and when I went down there earlier to check on the reservation, there were not a lot of open spaces on the page - funny to be in a situation where I'm HAPPY to not have a large selection of reservation times

[Coop]

You know, I actually liked the room. I think that the location is a bit odd, sorry Syd, but who really cares. This is a great restaurant. I think the press for it has been very good, so I suggest we ( all of us who love Union) should suck it up and not be so sensitive when someone finds something about the place they don't love.

I would say that the decor is minimilist, It works for me, I also love the W hotel, too bad it's so dark though!

Edited January 10, 2004 by Coop (log)

[tighe]

Obviously I had a strongly positive reaction to the interior of Union, so it's really hard for me to know where this review is coming from. If they want to see some REALLY ugly restaurants, I'd be happy to provide a list.

I also don't agree that Union's food follows the "good ingredients prepared simply" formula. In fact, I think Lark may fit that description more than Union does, and both do have great ingredients as the foundation. There's real creativity and impressive technique at both places though.

Edited January 10, 2004 by tighe (log)

[syd-vicious]

You know, I actually liked the room. I think that the location is a bit odd, sorry Syd, but who really cares. This is a great restaurant. I think the press for it has been very good, so I suggest we ( all of us who love Union) should suck it up and not be so sensitive when someone finds something about the place they don't love.

I would say that the decor is minimilis…

Totally! If she woulda just said it that way I think it would not be as misleading as I found her description.

But hey, it's all good, Coop.

Funny you should mention sucking it up because if you knew me (can you know the rainbow, Can you tell the setting sun, "hey sun, don't set today?" No! such is the Mango), you'd know that my life is one big study on "sucking it up." I've learned that the hard way through working in a landlord's office and just being an overly-empathetic Jewish Female) .

That being said, why should disagreeing with a part of a review mean we're being too sensitive? Isn't this website full of nit-picky discussions of this and that? As well as the big sweeping theoretical discussions of that and the other. Yeah, I'm a big soldier of love for the restaurant and I wish I had a comment to make about another review of another place that I frequent, but this is the one that struck me as a little weird/over the top, and it happens to be the topic that I know best right now. As I've stated a couple times previously in this thread, I'm well aware that everything's subjective, but then that's what makes this place hum, yes?

Anyway, I think it possibly helpful to tell people who might be considering going to a restaurant, that you disagree with an article when it will be read by, well, at least lots of people who buy coffee or cds

So, to avoid going into the "you're sounding a little defensive" place, (which I promise you I'm not… really…REALLY!!!!) I'll just restate again that this is the most polite and thoughtful forum I've ever participated in… so don't you go adding a whiny voice soundtrack in your head while reading my post.

And to keep it on topic, I'll mention that we went to Union last night to celebrate my husband's promotion and I had a yummy steak tartare, beautiful carrot soup w/a chunk of smoked salmon in the bottom, a heavenly herb-crusted venison dish and way too much wine which my dad brought for the occasion which successfully wiped out any more details of my meal for now

Peace

oh yeah, p.s. Coop, you can think or say anything you want about the place or the building and I promise I won't spit on your family or curse your house. I may even agree.

p.p.s. I'm to wordy to restrain myself from saying that I was just browsing through the section and can see how my post about the review could have been seen to be a little thin-skinned. I still say I'm not , but for sure I'm on the inside looking out somewhat on this thing, so I suppose I could tone down the rah-rah stuff a smidge. Ok, I'm off to choir practice…

Edited January 12, 2004 by syd-vicious (log)

[agnolottigirl]

My husband and I ate at Union last night and were very happy we did. It was Sunday night, and--on a January Sunday when everyplace else (well, except Le Pichet, our original destination) seemed dead--the joint was jumping.

Service suffered a bit, as they were obviously very understaffed for the volume they had, but our waiter did a very nice job considering that the place was overrun. (Mr. Agnolotti is a cook in Seattle, so we tend to be more forgiving of stuff the restaurant can't control but less forgiving of stuff they can.)

We had the pear and vanilla amuse mentioned elsewhere in this string--nice. It also had tiny diced chives on it, as did everything but dessert and (maybe) the duck. Through the course of the evening, we had two different breads: a white bread (not super-crunchy artisan stuff, my usual preference, but very good, and warm to boot) and an herbed (? olive) bread.

We weren't starving--it was on the early side--so we did not try the tasting menu, though the two mains on that menu (a seared ahi with white beans and olives) and some steak thing sounded great. (Our waiter said that the kitchen can sometimes offer the tasting selections a la carte, but they were just too slammed last night to deal, which was understandable.)

The mixed green salad, which is usually a ho-hum deal and basically the same everywhere, was very nice. Not so astringent as elsewhere--a gentle vinaigrette--and instead of crumbled goat cheese, soft rounds under the greens. And pecans made the whole thing rounder and sweeter. Yummy.

The gnocchi with guinea hen confit were probably our favorite thing. The confit was meltingly tender, and the gnocchi were very good. (Gnocchi are one of my tests--when they are good, they are very very good, but when they are bad, they are horrid. Usually they are horrid, but I can't stop looking for the transcendent gnocchi experience without having to make them at home. . . but that's a separate thread.) Anyway, we wished we had more of this, and we fought over who got to mop up the last bit of broth.

Entrees were duck breast with braised red cabbage and herbed spaetzle, which was delicious, the piquant cabbage setting off the richness of the duck. The duck was perfectly cooked, moist and meaty. This was delicious.

We weren't wild about our other entree, which was sturgeon with lamb shank and mashed potatoes (with. . . celeriac? something sweetish but vegetable). I think maybe we just don't like sturgeon (neither of us had tried it before; there was also amberjack on the menu, which I don't think I've ever seen on a menu anywhere else), but it seemed very bland and kind of chewy. What was under it was tasty, though: the "lamb shank" was actually sort of a gravy or stew, with small pieces of meltingly tender lamb in a very winey base over the potatoes.

Desserts were the apple bread pudding with spiced port reduction and creme anglaise ice cream, which I liked very much--tiny diced apple in the bread pudding were tart and crunchy in a custardy (but not super-eggy) base. Mr. Agnolotti had the mango creme brulee, which he said wasn't great but did not share. . . make of that what you will!

Overall, portions seemed on the small side, visually, but were exactly right once we started eating.

All in all, a very good meal. We'll be back. Wine list looks to be extensive, but there are obviously folks here who are more qualified to comment on that.

Re the interior, I don't find it very comfortable, but I think that may be a function of the weather (cold, blustery) and the food we ordered (upscale comfort food), which made me want something a little cozier. Noise level wasn't half-bad, considering that the restaurant was full.

Oh yeah, and the people-watching from the bar is. . . interesting.

[tsquare]

(Gnocchi are one of my tests--when they are good, they are very very good, but when they are bad, they are horrid. Usually they are horrid, but I can't stop looking for the transcendent gnocchi experience without having to make them at home. . . but that's a separate thread.)

The ones I ate at Troiani last month were a revelation - amazingly light. You can order them all by themselves. Might even be on the lunch menu?

edit - well, they are open for lunch during the week - but the online menu doesn't list them.

Edited January 12, 2004 by tsquare (log)

[vengroff]

Just got off the plane and found my way to my temporary apartment. It's a couple of blocks from Union. Gee, I wonder where I'll be eating tonight.

[vengroff]

I had the tasting menu at the bar at Union last night. The service was attentive and friendly and there were some very nice dishes. Spinach soup with creamed dungeness crab was a great combination. The savory spinach soup was poured over cool sweet chunks of crab. The effect was brilliant. I also had grilled loup de mer topped with a slaw of fennel in light vinegar. This dish got a lot of points with me for using fennel to its fullest potential without letting it overpower everything else on the plate, as so often happens. The only dish that disappointed me was the oysters topped with paddlefish caviar. To me it was just too briny. Note, however, that I routinely like less salt in my food that many others--so you can take my thoughts on the oysters with a grain of salt, as it were.

They have a good selection of wines by the glass. I particularly liked the Shea Pinot Noir that I had with an impressively gamey little roasted squab. They've also got a nice selection of half bottles.

On my next trip, I'm very much looking forward to sampling their selection of cheeses. The tasting menu had a cheese course, but not the full experience you get by ordering it seperately.

Dessert was a panna cotta with a grapefruit sauce (more soup really). I liked the combination in the bowl, but had trouble finding a wine pairing for it. In retrospect, maybe a sparkler would have been the right call.

Overall, I was quite pleased with my experience. $45 for the tasting menu seemed well within reason for the food, service, and presentation.

One final note if you happen to eat at the bar. There is a glass door that looks like an emergency exit to 1st Ave but isn't. Try to avoid sitting near it--people come and go all evening, and you get a blast of cold air on your back every time they do.

[vengroff]

Another successful visit to Union, this time with a group. We had tasting menus all around.

Once again the soup was outstanding. Velvety chestnut poured over a quenelle of foie gras mousse. The monkfish in lobster broth with young onions was also fantastic. Fluke with mint was an adventurous combination; the mint tried to be subtle, but was still just a tad overstated for the fish, in my opinion. The cheese course was an in-your-face epoisse, all gooey and runny on the plate--a bold and inspired choice--I loved it.

[LEdlund]

Mr. Ledlund and I went to Union before the symphony last night. After all the talk about the décor, I was surprised to find that I really liked it. I mean it’s a little “Pottery Barn” but certainly not ugly.

The amuse was a seaweed salad tossed with sesame oil. It went really well with my martini!

We started with the brioche and duck egg frisee salad. The duck egg was baked perfectly – the whites were cooked through and the yolk was warm and runny. Yum.

Next we shared the seared foie gras with braised oxtail and oxtail consommé. Talk about died and gone to heaven. Believe it or not, the consommé made the dish for me. Everything tasted better because of it.

I had roast haddock with sautéed hedgehog mushrooms in port sauce and my husband had the duck breast on a bed of celeriac. Both were fantastic. We finished with the cheese course. I don’t know if they planned it this way, but all were cow’s milk cheeses. Nothing really wowed me on the cheese course.

I will definitely be back when I have more time. I’d love to do the tasting menu.

[reesek]

my first visit to union last night - long awaited. i had to resist the urge several times to spike something and dance around like an NFLer. it was that good.

we sat in the bar as we weren't sure we wanted the full tasting experience and thought the bar atmosphere might be more casual. i'm delighted we did - i can't imagine getting better service in the dining room - the bartender was wonderful - very funny, attentive and helpful.

the amuse was shaved fennel with olive oil and chives. a friend and i split 4 courses...first - the dungeness crab salad - a disc of creamy crab infused with tarragon in a tangy green liquid. (wheat grass?) we had also wanted the shaved porcini salad, but were told they were out of porcini. second course was flat discs of pasta with bluefoot mushrooms, favas and a lemon thyme cream. insanely good. we mopped up every bit of sauce. third we had the seared halibut with hollandaise and asparagus - we were struck with how such a classic dish could seem so modern and clean. an exceptional hollandaise.

dessert was a strawberry rhubarb crisp with strawberry ice cream. they didn't really match well together, but who cared? they were both so good we were caught scarfing it. the ice cream tasted so fresh - i swear chef stowell must have a cow in the kitchen.

best meal i've had in seattle - maybe ever.

[tighe]

Thanks for the report reesek....

As we move into the fullness of the local produce season, I'm really excited to see what Ethan comes up with. I'm going for dinner on Saturday!...

[vengroff]

As we move into the fullness of the local produce season, I'm really excited to see what Ethan comes up with.

The spring onions he was serving with the filet of beef earlier this week were quite exceptional.

And, it's not exactly produce, but if you like a good calvados after dinner, try to DuPont they serve. It's not cheap, but it's mighty tasty.

[geoff]

Yes, the food at Union is superb, but the tomb-like atmosphere deadens the fun. A recent Friday evening found the bar empty, its forlorn bartender gazing out the window. The handful of dining patrons were pushing retirement age. I saw two separate groups seated only to immediately get up and leave (one pair even used the emergency exit).

In short, the place is dull, despite the amuse bouche we're all excited about. Clearly Mr. Stowell knows his way around the kitchen. But his dining room kills the soul.

[pupcart]

Would a single female diner feel comfortable dining at Union? From the reviews on this board Union sounds like an exceptional dining experience, but my dining partner is out of town for a while. Or would I be more comfortable at Lark? I would like to try both of those restaurants soon. Thanks in advance for your advice.

[mildbore]

Would a single female diner feel comfortable dining at Union? From the reviews on this board Union sounds like an exceptional dining experience, but my dining partner is out of town for a while. Or would I be more comfortable at Lark? I would like to try both of those restaurants soon. Thanks in advance for your advice.

I know you would be comforable alone at Lark. Less sure about Union.

Bill (who is not just of retirement age but who is retired)

[tighe]

Would a single female diner feel comfortable dining at Union? From the reviews on this board Union sounds like an exceptional dining experience, but my dining partner is out of town for a while. Or would I be more comfortable at Lark? I would like to try both of those restaurants soon. Thanks in advance for your advice.

I personnally think that Union would be better for a solo diner than Lark, since their bar area is more significant. Others here have dined there alone, so maybe they can give more substantive advice.

[Sleepy_Dragon]

Would a single female diner feel comfortable dining at Union?

I've done it, though I may not be the best person to give advice because I've never been ruffled about going alone anywhere, whether it's movies, a meal out, street fairs, travel, etc. When I'm living by myself, it doesn't occur to me that I should have to go with anyone. So, if that describes you, then... uh, well, it probably doesn't otherwise you wouldn't ask in the first place I guess.

Bring a book. Always works well for me. In fact, that time I went to Union, between courses I was reading my textbook for my finals the next day! It made perfect sense to me... got a culinary final, so study for it while eating and pondering nice and interesting things, as well as see what the big deal was about. I enjoyed my meal a lot.

The staff were all nice to me, and this was during the 25 for 25 event. And I hadn't ordered any alcohol either, which I hadn't realized was something waitstaff can hold against you until recently. Glad that's never been an issue anywhere, including Union.

For the other tee-totalers out there, Union has nice tea, especially the jasmine. It always makes me happy when fine dining establishments have good quality tea which is brought out in a hefty pot, with a ceramic cup for drinking, plus attentive waitstaff who keep the pot full, rather than the usual throwaway metal pot with Lipton or Stash bag.

Pat

[tsquare]

Both were just fine to me dining solo.

I like the little bar at Lark. Servers and kitchen staff wander by often enough to chat, if you like that.

Union has plenty of two tops, so a table is less overwhelming. My spin at the bar was on an early empty night, so I felt too exposed with my back to First Ave.

[vmilor]

I had a very nice dinner there last Saturday. What was even nicer was the company: Tighe and his wife proved to be dream hosts who steered us to the right things in Seattle and their company at Union was most memorable.

The best restaurant I have tried during the visit was Rover's. It is a solid French which delivers just below one star level(given that Astrance has one star and Atelier none). Chef Rautureau's soft shell bisque with seaweed and hazelnuts was a symphony of mutually supportive and accordant tastes where each component came to life and the sum was greater than the parts. Other dishes were expertly executed.

Nishino is a top Japanese place, better than any I know in San Francisco or Atlanta. I recommend the sushi, monk fish liver and larger plates--daily specials.

The Basque Harvest Wine is a dream place to have in the States. Truly authentic with solid food to match and a colorful chef.

The best single dish was at Dahlia Lounge. Copper river king wild salmon had just popped up on the menu. A thick piece grilled rare and served with crunchy local asparagus, concentrated Oregon morels and on top of honest potato puree. Superb. The rest of the meal was quite good, more so with mains than the entrees.

Matt's in the Market, another Tighe recommendation, is a little gem hidden in the Pike market. Go for lunch. Very nice group of servers.

Union is a sophisticated restaurant. You can go single, double, triple, whatever... all fare well. The chef does not play games and his cooking is straightforward and well thought out. I had some qualms about the chewy duck and was surprised to be served turbot from the Atlantic coast which has as much to do in taste with a turbot from Brettanie or the Black Sea in Turkey as American so called Chablis with a Raveneau Chablis Clos. I was surprised because the quality of wild salmon and halibut in Seattle is world class. But, in return, the chef prepares top notch snapper(lemon snapper he called it) tartare seasoned with mint, very successful asparagus soup with an egg, superb prosciutto, good smoked salmon and light and flavorful desserts. His red wine and port saucing with the fish and duck, respectively, also proved that he is technically proficient. Menu at $48 is fair and wines to match for $40 with fine selections are more than fair. The chef who knows Tighe and his wife well came to our table and he gave the impression of a modest and well meaning person.

We are looking forward to a future trip to this beautiful city which is full of character.

[tighe]

I would have to say that dinner at Union on Saturday was not the best meal, overall, that I've had there. As vmilor says though, there were some excellent individual dishes including, my favorites, the snapper tartare and the asparagus soup.

It is a tribute to his intense focus on dining that vmilor managed to try all the restaurants he mentions (plus Salumi) in 3 days! Why I never considered the possibility of starting a meal with some sushi at Nishino and then finishing up with some tapas at Harvest Vine, I don't know, but its a great idea.

[scrat68]

Nice article in today's PI

Chef Ethan Stowell pairs up with his famous ballet director dad to create a Father's Day feast

[Really Nice!]

Had dinner at Union tonight. There were a total of 10 people having dinner between 6:30 and 9:30. There was one person in the bar.

After the March Madness of the 8-course tasting menu for $25 I walked by each night that first week in April and saw no more than 6 people having dinner around 7:30. On Tuesday night, April 6, (I know, I retain crap like this) I walked by and there was no one in the place, not even in the bar!

I hope this restaurant doesn't get into the Farewell & Welcome thread.

Are the prices keeping people away?

BTW, they have the 375ml bottle of '94 d'Yquem at only $100. A steal.

[ScorchedPalate]

Oh my gosh, we all have to get over there *right now* and support them. They're too good a place to go under.

We were just saying last night (during a disappointing meal at the Capitol Club) that we want to go there more often, become regulars. Now I have an incentive.

~A

[LaurieA-B]

Penelope Corcoran reported in the P-I last week that Union "now offers a three-course tasting menu at lunch. For $20 per person, guests may assemble their own prix fixe from the a la carte lunch menu, which changes daily. Lunch hours are 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Friday. Reservations are accepted." Sounds like a great deal to me; I'm looking forward to my first visit to Union.