Fish heads to make stock

[johnnyd]

Thanks Paul and all who tackled the lobster stock technique.

After a hundred or more chowders, I find a twenty minute simmer from cold water for my lobsterbodies or local shrimp shells will yield a flavorful, yet grayish broth. The local shrimp are sold at the end of their season (2 to 4wks) with eggs around the bellies which I try and save, the flavor is awesome, the stock is almost black.

The chowder I make uses whatever's fresh, usually white fish like haddock, cod or cusk (which holds it's shape after cooking) but the background I aim for and get is crustacean. The color is not an issue, and I coarse strain the stock to ensure some tasty bits make it in but no cartilage. The result has a rustic "downeast" quality with big flavor.

Lately, I've added diced onion, celery and green pepper to the salt pork rendering, then maine potato before stock w/bayleaf. Simmer about 15, add fish (one inch pcs), then heavy cream at the end and only to what's beeing served that day.

I make sure I always have a quart or two of the base in my freezer, stock as well. I have to try Paul's sweat method next, and see what happens. Aiden is on the money re: fennel and garlic, best to add later unless the broth is half the meal. I could see using that for an oyster stew...hmmm...

I feel like eGullet is like one gigantic brain about food...

[PopsicleToze]

One more question. I'm trying the fish stock this weekend. It will be the first time after swearing it off a long time ago. I now know what to remove and how so it won't get bitter. Before I simmered for only 30 minutes, but that will now be reduced to 20.

One last question. I make stocks to freeze and then use the stocks as a base for other dishes. If I cook the fish stock 20 minutes just to make the stock, won't cooking it in the final dish make it bitter anyway?

Rhonda

[ducphat30]

One of the best techniques for getting a great fish stock is to, as the french say, "degorge" the bones which involves rinsing them a lot of times in water. I would agree with removing the gills, I have never had a bad result leaving the eyes in. IMO using a white mirepoix adds a lot of fresh "clean" flavor to the stock. White mirepoix being leeks, onion, celery and fennel with a nice bouquet garni of bay leaf, coriander, black pepper corns, fresh thyme and a little bit of salt.

Technique is to bring the stock up very slowly. I do not cover the bones with water, I leave a little bit of bone showing. As the pot comes up and the bones cook and collapse they submerge. Once I get to a simmer and the scum forms, skim aggressively. Add the mirepoix and allow to simmer at least 20 minutes, I would go no longer than 40. Strain through a chinois.

In my opinion the milder the fish the milder the stock, so for instance if you have halibut bones, or better yet dover sole bones, it is a much lighter flavored stock.

As with all good things, paying the stock some attention will yield the best results.

If I cook the fish stock 20 minutes just to make the stock, won't cooking it in the final dish make it bitter anyway?

No it won't make it bitter because those elements have been strained out. Now you have this nice gelatinous viscous goodness left behind that is going to get richer as it reduces. Although, if the stock is bitter to start with, reducing it will only intensify the bitterness.

Sorry for such a long post, there is something about making really good fish stock that gets me excited.

Couple of additions, I do put a little bit of white wine in with the water at the beginning, and dried herbs darken the stock, they tend to add to the bitterness, as well.

[PopsicleToze]

Thanks -- I'll post my success, or lack thereof, this weekend!