Just Returned from Paris

[PaulaJK]

Fatigue limits me to discussing only one today, so I will begin w. the one that was 'over the top'. Le Meurice, in the hotel Meurice, is a beautiful formal room whose murals,mirrors and chandeliers made us feel as though you were dining at Versailles. The tables were generously spaced, nicely appointed and the 3 candle silver candelabra added a warm glow. Service personnel were numerous, well trained & solicitous...although I could have forgone the black tail uniforms. While Chef Yannick Alleno perused the room from the entry to the kitchen, he did not 'work' the diningroom which made me hopeful that he still enjoyed cooking.

The presentation of each course deserved a full page photo in a food publication. The amuse was foie gras royale [custard] w. a frothy chestnut creme on its surface.

#1-a sea urchin half sat on a bed of sea salt and [perhaps lightly fried] greens... it was filled w. saffron scented boullibasie gelee which had a dollop of fennel mousse on top + mini veggie garnsihes. A side plate w. a folded white napkin contained several crisp fingers of sea urchin roe/tongue..I found the latter particularly delicious.

#2 a cube of lightly smoked balik salmon encased in a single layer of potato scales and fried was on a plate w. a cocktail glass that contained french caviar

topped w. a ball of leek mousse

#3 I am not certain what a 'flammenkuchen tart' is supposed to be...I was anticipating something quiche-like...but this was heavenly...a rectangle of very thin ,crisp and buttery pastry topped w. slices of potato & black truffle, w. a delicious brown sauce [no idea what it was]

#4very sweet, slightly sauteed sea scallops sat on a frothy creamy sauce and were covered w. julienne of black truffle...a generous slice of sauteed foie gras leaned against them.

#5There was a choice of main course. I chose the [1/2] breast of Bresse chicken which was accompanied by delicious baby vegetables. ..good enough but not

special. My husband chose the Wagyu beef which came w. sweet onion ravioli.

He didn't care for the soft texture, which, after all, the idea of Wagyu!

#6the cheese cart leaned towards the firm..e.g..Comte..also forme d'Ambert

& some pungent selections/ Epoisses & a calvados soaked camembert

#7 &8 were desserts

-Think of a Klondike bar. This rectangluar frozen creme was encased in a tuile and topped w. fraise de bois

-Think of a napoleon formation of nutted chocolate bisquit, ganache

and chestnut cream w. micrtome thin casing of bittersweet chocolate on the sides and top. A candied chestnut was wrapped in pulled sugar in a vertical formation & contained flecks of gold leaf. The plate also had a chocolate dough eclair w. choc custard & frosting & gold flecks, the total jno larger than your baby finger.

This was a very rich menu, where foie gras, truffles & gold flecks abounded..and the appearance was as delightful as the taste.

Edited February 17, 2004 by PaulaJK (log)

[PaulaJK]

Obviously I need some technical advise in how to get my rows

to be the same length. That appear the same as I write them,

but run on in the actual post.

[PaulaJK]

Part 2

-We do not understand how Helene Darroze has garnered any starts.

The stark, dark toned room may appeal to others but it is difficult

to imagine how the cold, unenthusiastic service could appeal to anyone.

The menu degustation consisted of

-no amuse offering [exceptionnel, I think]

-a rather flat consomme of tuna, accompanied by logs of tuna. We eat

raw or rare tuna regularly and this is the only time that it has ever smelled

fishy. We left this course.

-a foie gras creme brulee topped w. black truffle ice cream. This trendy

did not appeal and we left most of it.

-The mi cuit salmon was closer to sushi..presented with its apparently

[fully] uncooked skin up, it did not an attractive picture make. Oil was oozing

on the plate and the dish reaked of salmon. We did not find it palatable.

-The main course was braised veal--more of a bistro dish, I think--but

quite tasty.

-The cheese cart had 1 blue, no softer cheeses but tasty pont l'eveque & comte.

-We have forgotten the dessert. [sorry, but I lost my notes on this one]

-Then they rolled over the confectionery cart which had [?] a pound cake, a jar of marshmallow, a jar of caramels and a jar of small raspberry macaroons. I

requested macaroons & caramels and ONE of each was placed on my plate.

Wine service was competent.

[hollywood]

With regard to Le Meurice, I recall eating in the hotel a number of years ago (obviously before the remodel). I seem to recall eating in a windowless room. Is that still the case? The description you've given reminds me more of the downstairs salon where the pianist holds forth and you can get aperitifs, etc.

[PaulaJK]

As you go through the front doors of the hotel, Le Meurice is [now] located to your right. You enter through a doorway, into what could pass, in my estimation anyway, as a very grand and formal ballroom..with many painted walls, mirrors and at least four grand chandeliers. Frankly, I don't recall if I saw windows or not although certainly I had no reason to note their absence.

If after entering through the doors, you had continued straight you would have been in a central lobby which had a very cozy bar on the left. The bar area opened onto the lobby and there also were seats there for apertifs,etc. The pianist and drummer [excellent] were on the other side of this lobby area, tucked into a leafy area. There were partitions behind the musicians, sheltering a more casual dining venue. Hence lobby, bar & casual dining area could enjoy the music.

This was our first visit to the Meurice, but it sounds as though the remodeling may have transformed locations.

[Louisa Chu]

Flammenkuchen is basically the Alsatian version of Quiche Lorraine - it's usually just pastry, cream, onions, ham - no eggs - I guess life was harder in Alsace than Lorraine. And the Meurice dining room definitely has windows.

[PaulaJK]

I was expecting a quiche like dish. This obviously was an interpretation

and a rather marvelous one. No eggs or cream or ham....perhaps

a smear of wilted leeks under the potato and truffle slices..The crust

didn't seem like a quiche crust but something very, very thin. I think

this was my favorite item in this very interesting menu.

Speaking of Alsace, we visited for lunch Mon Vieil Ami on the Ile

St Louis where several earthy or hearty items can be found on

the menu. There is a long communal table on the left side of

this restaurant and individual tables on the right. They serve

a glass of white wine and a basket of country bread when you are

seated. We ordered the pate en croute which was dome shaped with

country-coarse pate mix surrounding a very generous round of

foie gras. Marinated onions & raisins accompanied it. We followed w.

a casserole of pork. Sorry I don't have notes but I thought of this as

braised and the accompaning root veggies were delicious. Rice pudding

w. pears for dessert. Very pleasant service & surroundings.

[hollywood]

This was our first visit to the Meurice, but it sounds as though the remodeling may have transformed locations.

Definitely. I think the restaurant was on a different level before.

[vmilor]

Paula,

I will go to Meurice in 3 weeks. I have some questions:

1. I gathered you were with your husband. Are there tables for 2 where you can eat next to each other? I hate to face the wall or the mirror.

2. Truffles are variable quality this year. Did you like the ones in Meurice? Were they firm and smoky and dark black?

3. Have you seen anybody ordering a main course for 2? Usually they are better bets.

Darrozze is the weakest 2 stars in Paris, a joke actually. Meurice is the other extreme. A potential three stars candidates. May I ask which other 2 stars you have tried? Have you tried Les Elysees in Hotel du Vernet?

[Louisa Chu]

Paula, you're really digging the neo-Alsatian stuff - me too. Mon Veil Ami is M. Westermann's new place - Pim had dinner at his three-star place - check out her food blog last week - great pics.

vmilor, the tables are pretty well-spaced - they should be able to pull the chairs next to each other for you.

[PaulaJK]

The tables are,indeed, well spaced...and the mirrors and walls quite

lovely although certainly you are not pressed ags. them. Our table

looked out into or upon the diningroom. I think I recall all

square tables. We sat at adjoining sides, not across from each other...

although you may prefer a banquette style, I don't think you'll

find it here.

Due to the spacing pf the tables it is difficult to observe what others

have ordered. Certainly we noted a la carte [not just menu degustation]

items going out. I do recall a pigeon in two courses & probably some

preparation for two persons but don't have more info on this.

We had truffles in several restaurants this trip. All of the truffles

were firm, black, fragrant and tasty. We are far from truffle experts

and can't comment on the quality as such.

Helene Darrozze is --in our impression--not worth a visit ...not even

if she didn't have stars and not even if the menu were half price! It was

poor in many aspects....and I don't think the fish was fresh. I haven't

been able to look at salmon since!

We have [recently] enjoyed Carre des Feuillants ,Le Meurice, and Relais d'Auteuil. In past visits we never fully appreciated Ambroserie & Arpege...

and disliked our experience at Pierre Gagnaire. We've had elegant, if staid,

meals at Taillevent and have loved Le Grand Vefour altho we may need

to win the lottery to return. We enjoyed Guy Savoy without needing to

repeat it and were so-so on our experience at Rostang a few years ago

and didn't repeat it. So you can see if we share any perspectives.

Incidentally, I would like to thank board members who pointed us towards the above Mon Vieil Ami and also to Seize au Seize & Epi Dupin about which

I write a note soon. I would not hesitate to return to any of these. Altho

this was a special trip and had more visits to 'stars' than is usual for

us, I confess a love for the simpler life...in Paris, of course!

Loufood...it's that's 'neo-Alsatian', for the first time in my life I may

seek out Alsatian chefs/restaurants! I even enjoyed writing/remembering

this dish!

[vmilor]

Paula,

Thanks for the information. Even the best restaurants can have off days but one starts wondering if there are too many reports which are consistently negative. Darrozze is a case in point. Gagnaire is just too unorthodox and most people have strong feelings one way or another.

I am very interested in trying Relais d'Auteuil. You said you tried it recently. If you have time I would appreciate if you expound on it . What is the style of the chef? Are there dishes he is particularly good at? What is the ambience like? Is the wine list fairly priced?

[PaulaJK]

We have enjoyed Patrick Pignol's Relais d'Auteuil since before

it garnered any stars. I don't think that I can comment on the

chef's orientation. The room is small to medium in size w.

individual tables nicely spaced. Apparently either Chef or Madame

enjoy redecorating quite a bit as it has been several different

colors & feeling tones during the years I have been dining there.

Perhaps my favorite is the fussier one of a few years ago. Now it

is simplified and more contemporary without becoming austere.

Interesting touches in tableware, vases, candles,etc. are visually

appealing. The maitre d' is v. efficient & fluent in English as

is the remainder of the staff.

We ordered the menu degustation

-small plate of amuses inc. spoon w. tuna tartare & pastries

-a chicken wing stuffed w. mushrooms & plated w. 3 sauces, kind

of farm house gone elegant & surprisingly tasty

-signature dish of foie gras encased w. ? potatoes & studded w.

almonds

-lobster canneloni

-fabulously sweet scallops layered w. generous slices of black truffle

-bass w. a pepper encrusted skin which we were encouraged

to take off and enjoy in small bites due to its heat, offset w.

glazed fennel

-a tender veal mignon

-cheese cart

-signature egg shell filled w. a mousee & topped w. passion

fruit coulis

-another dessert which I've forgotten

-signature chocolate "donuts" which are like warm beignets

enrobing chocolate truffles

Fortunately, ladies in Paris receive menus without prices....so I can't

comment on the wine list. I don't recall my husband's fainting though!

We very much enjoy this restaurant....and also think that you might

consider Carre des Feuillants where the cuisine, when Alain

Dutournier is 'on' can be a half step up.