Union Pacific (Closed)

[lxt]

To “celebrate” the return of winter for one day last week, and in search of a satisfying meal in a place where my vocal cords wouldn’t have to be strained excessively in the mere attempt to be heard, we wandered into Union Pacific for a quick lunch and took advantage of their $20 prix fixe. The meal was certainly the highlight of my day aside from my company. The restaurant was mostly empty at 1 p.m., and the atmosphere was very relaxed with plenty of attention from the restaurant staff.

We decided to order two additional appetizers from the regular menu on top of the prix fixe, adding Taylor Bay Scallops and Tuna Tartare to our lunch .

Taylor Bay Scallops with uni and mustard oil

The dish was so beautifully arranged that one would not want to disturb the pattern of six shells elaborately carved with prominent heavy ribs varying in color from rosy pink through shades of brown, each hosting a perfect rectangular strip of tender white raw scallop flesh sprinkled with dark brown mustard seeds and uni alongside in a bath of transparent liquid, presented on a high pedestal of crushed ice diamonds and a cloth made of edible green and firebrick seaweed. Each piece of scallop was a bit briny with a very light taste of the ocean, but sweet enough not even to require any embellishment when eaten separately. The uni, however, was not of the perfect quality one would find at Sushi Yasuda, for instance. The dark yellow-brown roe had a creamy texture but without firmness, with notes of brine and acute iodine. However, as it melted in your mouth, the sweet flavor was unleashed and nicely wrapped around the sensuous texture of the scallop. The binding element was the liquid with a touch of unrecognized acidity that only accentuated the sweetness of the other elements and a very lightly wasabi-like tang with the nutty overtone of mustard oil. We couldn’t figure out the liquid component and were quite surprised to learn that it was tomato water. It was one of those dishes that brings a smile to your face.

Tuna Tartare with asian pear and fresh wasabi

Tuna burger processed almost to a creamy state with bits of scallions was topped with cilantro, basil, shiso leaves, yuzu and edible flowers. Cubes of fresh Asian pear were placed on two corners of the plate. A thin line of thick caramel sauce sprinkled with black sesame seeds circled the plate, and a piece of dry, slightly spicy and sweet pear chip completed the composition. Aside from the caramel sauce, which, in my opinion, seemed to be excessive and not very complementary, the appetizer was nice.

Aromatic Cauliflower Soup with pine nuts andTthai basil syrup

This was an enjoyable dish. The presentation was terrific, with a smooth cream-colored liquid dressed up with green dotted swirls of basil syrup and pine nuts resting in a puddle of pale-yellow pine oil. The aroma of the soup was tantalizing but not fully revealing of its silky texture and sweet yet intense flavor, enriched by the lemony and slightly spicy tang of the thai basil syrup offset by a bit bitter taste of oil and roasted nuts, leaving a lingering finish upon taking the first sip, satisfying only enough to make you want more. Grains of almost raw cauliflower on the bottom of the plate gave the soup the last touch of crunchiness. It was delicious.

Salmon with sea beans and cloud ear mushrooms

A nice piece of salmon filet lay on a bed of bright green sea beans and cloud ear mushrooms in a circle of artichoke puree, accompanied by a thin red wine sauce. The salmon had a wonderfully crisp skin, but was a bit overdone. The tangy and salty sea beans added a little crunch to the dish, and along with the soft texture and almost neutral tasting cloud ear mushrooms in a smooth, buttery artichoke pureé added an inventive twist to the flavor of the salmon enriched by the wine sauce that brought a bit of acidity an intensity to the dish. It was a complex and flavor-concentrated dish, which with a proper preparation of the salmon would’ve been more enjoyable.

Chicken Pot au Feu with baby root vegetables and red beet-horseradish broth

Two pieces of chicken breast were centered in a deep plate with the thin, burgundy beet broth garnished with curly parsley and sketchily tossed baby carrots, potatoes and a halved white beet. The chicken had such a great contrast of a velvety smoothness, which almost lacked the coarse texture of the meat requiring minimum chewing effort, and a crisp, golden, thick skin sprinkled with the coarse grains of fleur de sel. The lightly sweet and bitter taste of the broth was gentle in flavor with only a hint of horseradish, and was very enjoyable when eaten separately. I loved this simple and elegant dish and was happy it was included in the prix-fixe as I probably would’ve never ordered it from the menu on my own.

The desserts were ordinary aside from the sorbets consisting of mango, raspberry and grapefruit scoops presented in a flower pattern like petals. Each of the sorbets had such an intense flavor of its fruit, that the impression left was that of eating the real, ripe thing.

I can’t wait to return.

[docsconz]

I too had an awesome lunch at Union pacific, only it was a couple of years ago. The dish I remember very vividly was the Taylor bay scallops you so excellently described. They were a revelation. I was back awhile later for dinner and had the chef's premier tasting menu with several friends. Rocco Dispirito wasn't there as he had been previously. While it was good, it lacked the spark of my previous visits. I haven't been back since, not so much because I don't want to, but just because there are so many other places I want to try first. Had that dinner lived up to my previous two experiences, I would probably have returned before now. With your post, I am excited to speed up my return.

[macrosan]

My first visit to Union Pacific for dinner on Monday. First impressions were excellent --- a charming welcome from the hostess, and then being led into the great space of the restaurant. The restaurant is high-ceilinged and the tables well spaced, with a half-mezzanine floor with (I guess) eight or ten tables. We had a corner banquette table which was comfortable and gave us both a good view into the body of the restaurant. The one problem with a corner banquette is that you have to turn half sideways to talk to your companion, and on balance I think I prefer regular chairs.

I had been really looking forward to UP, having read many excellent reviews here, but sadly I was disappointed overall.

The menu sounded excellent. Interesting and varied, some particularly innovative combinations, and I found plenty of dishes that appealed to me. My starter was Fragrant Ceviche of Black Bass with fennel pollen and hyssop. This was a brilliant dish. Excellent fresh and juicy fish imbued with subtly fragrant flavors. The fennel was barely detectable, and came through late with each mouthful. I honestly have no idea what hyssop tastes like, but I'm sure it contributed to the flavors of the dish. There was a light topping of tiny translucent crunchy cubes whjich may have been onion, and this gave an excellent textural contrast. The dish was an absolute winner.

I had a small taste of my companion's Lamb Tartare which I had nearly ordered myself. This was so different stylistically from my starter, they could have been made in two different kitchens. The flavor was strong and complex, the texture was heavy and mushy. There were simply too many ingredients, and the only thing I couldn't taste was lamb. Disappointing.

My main was Tamarind Lacquered White Pekin Duck and I hated it. The duck itself was superb, top quality meat beautifully prepared and presented, tender and moist. But oh, what did they do to it ? The meat was imbued with something scented and sweet-flavored, almost like lavender. Or maybe this was the tamarind ? As with the lamb tartare, the problem was that it didn't taste like duck. The flavoring was always at the forefront of every mouthful. The slices of duck were served on a bed of an indistinguishable vegetable compote, which was again far too sweet, far too mushy, and which absolutely overpowered the duck. I was instantly reminded as I ate it of a lamb dish which I tasted at The Capital in London, where the jus served with the vegetables had been so heavily reduced that it was excrutiating to my taste buds, but at least in that case I could leave the vegetables and eat the excellent, unsullied lamb. In this case, though, there was just no escapeing the sweetness. Big thumbs down from me for one of UP's signature dishes.

My dessert was our waiter's choice, Three ways lemon which consisted of a lemon sorbet, lemon panna cotta and lemon mousse. Just totally unexceptional at every level, but the sorbet was very poorly prepared. It was just cold and wet with a hint of lemon flavor. I have already discovered on this trip to New York that Panna Cotta has become the new seared tuna of the American restaurant industry. Every restaurant everywhere seems to have it on the menu, and I truly have no idea why. At it's very best it's a simple, innocuous concoction which you can't do much with except change the flavor. I have no doubt someone will soon produce a lobster panna cotta and a chilli pepper and truffle panna cotta Whatever, this hardly seems to me to fit well at the forefront of so many haute cuisine menus.

Our wine was a terrific Croze Hermitage chosen by my companion, I think 1999. This was rich and smooth and thoroughly enjoyable. Service was pleasant and attentive.

Total cost was $160 per person, which for the quality of restaurant was entirely reasonable. Sadly, for me, the food just didn't live up well enough to the reputation.

[Steve Klc]

Well Macrosan, the panna cotta floodgates really opened wide in the US after Keller's cauliflower panna cotta (with oyster water gelee and caviar) which was in his book, 1999 I think, and then appeared in his LA Times column later. I started noticing other savory versions, coincidence? And Claudia Fleming really put panna cotta on the dessert map here years ago as well. Her version with buttermilk and a Sauternes gelee (and preserved lemon I think) got a lot of play and clearly has been widely emulated. But there usually is a good reason for things that are widely emulated--they're good and diners react to them--in the case of a dessert panna cotta, well, think of it as a lighter, cleaner version of a creme brulee which is easier to make because you don't have to cook egg yolk--instead just infuse and set some dairy with a mere hint of gelatin. And yes, it takes flavor well in the right hands. I'm sorry you didn't get a good example of the form--had you ever had a panna cotta say at Babbo or Gramercy Tavern?

A panna cotta, which allows some inherent flavorful character of a really good dairy product to come through can be one of those really simple pleasures.

[Steve Klc]

We're probably going to cross post here--but in your AZ meal writeup you mention panna cotta again:

"I had Rhubarb sorbet with rhubarb chunks and panna cotta. The rhubarb chunks were tiny and very hard, good and crunchy and not too acid. Tne sorbet was superb, probably the best sorbet I have ever tasted -- good firm texture, melted quickly in the mouth, and a clear but light flavor. The panna cotta was ... well, it was panna cotta, and didn't merit it's place on the plate or the menu."

Here's the thing for me--how were these two desserts presented--the UP lemon version seemed like it might have been the "1,2,3" little portions, disconnected on the plate so you tasted and evaluated each separately; whereas the AZ dessert seemed it might have been a composition, layered, so you got a little of each element as you took each spoonful--was it? Perhaps it is how these things are composed and presented that's part of the problem for you? I'm not saying each component shouldn't on their own be good or interesting if you pull them apart--but isn't the whole effect what's important? Did you get all three elements in the AZ presentation or was it also little piles of "1,2,3?"

I'm clearly in the anti- "1,2,3" camp and whenever I use panna cotta I go layered--so you get fruit, wine, gelee, contrast somehow as you spoon in and I hope it changes--how you perceive it changes--as you keep eating so it doesn't get boring. Craft might be another choice for panna cotta--the pastry chef there is strong.

I guess the larger question might be--how reflective of the cuisine or concept of the restaurant were each of these desserts? How good a job did Rocco and Patricia Yeo do in following through all the way to the end of the meal--your emerging dislike for panna cotta aside?

[macrosan]

Steve, I have a feeling we should start a panna cotta thread

They were both in your 1-2-3 style, three separate items on the plate, although the AZ items were piled on top of one another. Does that count as layered ? You may well be right that panna cotta built into the structure of a dessert dish would be better. On its own, I'm not crazy about the slightly slimy texture of panna cotta, and I'm not convinced it's a good product for carrying flavor. But as almost a "filling" for gateau or pie, maybe it would work.

Your question about context is interesting. I can't see how my dessert fitted into an Asian fusion menu. I can only remember one other dessert, and that was a fancy creme brulee, which seems also to me to be right outside everything else on the AZ menu. Maybe Patricia Yeo can't think of any Asian inspired desserts which would appeal to the American palate ?

The dessert at UP certainly was in keeping with the general style of the food. I suppose UP is essentially French-American cuisine, and lemon as a dessert base is well tried in both of those.

OK, you really have me on the run now. I will try panna cotta tomorrow at GT, and then again at Craft where I'm dining on Friday How on earth did you know ?

Edit note: Corrected description of AZ layering

Edited May 7, 2003 by macrosan (log)

[Steve Klc]

I did not know, but I judged the graduating pastry student final exam at FCI last week and also on the panel with me was Karen DeMasco, the pastry chef of Craft. That's why I thought of her.

We had an in-depth panna cotta thread going in Italy and Mamster filed a TDG piece on panna cotta a while back. Your sense of it becoming ubiquitous and your fear of some strange incarnations breaks some newish ground, though.

At AZ, it counts as layered if when you ate it--the presentation and form encouraged you to scoop up those flavors and items in layers, in combinations. Imagine that same dessert built in a clear, very stylish glass--from bottom up--thin layer of panna cotta, some rhubarb in a ring around the glass, more panna cotta, topped with a gelee of like strawberry water with some complementary herb, topped with a perfectly clean quenelle of the sorbet. Maybe sprinkled with some dried strawberry/rhubarb powder. Imagine how cool it might have looked as you eyed this red "parfait" being brought to your table through the dining room. Then with each spoonful you had panna cotta--but also all this other stuff as counterpoint. That clean sorbet you loved, which disintegrated and imparted flavor quickly would be balanced by the creamy jiggliness of the panna cotta which kind of lingered. At least that's the theory. (Staying in this red theme I can see a panna cotta also working with raspberries and rose. I'm oohing right now.)

I don't think it is a sense that these chefs "can't" think of appropriate desserts. I think the real question as a diner might be to ask: are the respective chef's commitment to their dessert programs strong enough--are they what they should be at their price point--and this includes developing and maintaining relationships with strong pastry chefs and then supporting him or her in their role. I bet you, as a visitor, might be able to name the pastry chef of WD-50--Sam Mason--at least you could if you read the NY Times when you arrived or linked to it online from one of our Digests on eGullet. He's been out front mentioned several times in media with full blessing of the chef and that restaurant just opened. Grimes gave his daring desserts--which I believe included an oatmeal panna cotta?--lots of play in his Diner's Journal. (Grimes is very good about mentioning pastry chefs by name!) Who is Rocco's pastry chef? I couldn't tell you. I doubt Grimes could.

And I'm sorry--for $160 per person I'd hope you were getting at least one great dessert, if not a great pre-dessert and a petits fours or two afterward. This is the dining capital of the US.

[lxt]

This dinner, which I shared with macrosan, was my fourth and by far the least successful meal at Union Pacific in a relatively short period of time. I could have attributed our disappointment to a less fortunate menu selection this time had I not tried some of the same dishes previously with much greater satisfaction. It was almost like two different kitchens had attempted to construct dishes based on the same recipes. Could it be that Union Pacific is generally not consistent or that it was one of those rare off days? Is it that Monday is a day to avoid dining at this restaurant? Is it that Chef Dispirito was out that day? If he was and his absence adversely affected the kitchen, how will it affect Union Pacific when he opens his new restaurant and will deprive Union Pacific of his presence most of the time (just a speculation)? I have to admit that the difference I experienced between my previous and the latest visits was staggering.

I am going to attempt to selectively combine my impressions of all recent meals I had at Union Pacific.

-----------------------------

Several steps inside the entrance, I was facing a small wooden bridge amidst the melodic and refreshing sounds of a tinkling waterfall and a pond with blossoming artificial miniature lily pads and floating candles all of which gave a grandiose focal point to the paradisiacal setting, creating an illusion of an exotic world of miniature bromeliads and vines of rose moss, and tied a small lobby and the main dining room together.

Little touches of the Amazon theme persisted upon my entering the main room with a high, fabric ceiling displaying a night sky with stars and supported by metal arcs; a lizard pattern imprinted into the banquette fabric; red satin walls plastered with metal panels in the shape of a jungle plant’s branches; and elaborate rails on the second floor echoing the wall theme. Interestingly, the décor, which could so easily leave the impression of vulgarity, instead delivered something of an exotic grace. The lighting was subdued and soft, stressing your contour and at the same time hiding and soothing unwanted wrinkles and tiny skin imperfections, lending a warm feeling of comfort and reassurance.

We were seated at a round corner table facing the frosted glass partition separating the kitchen from the dining room, where you could see shadows moving in a rehearsed and regimented dance. The table with side-by-side seating was wide enough to allow for a comfortable space between you and your dining companion and at the same time provided just the right level of coziness for conducting a private conversation. Unlike macrosan, I have nothing against banquettes and was quite comfortable though I will certainly take his preference into consideration the next time he blesses New York with his presence. :raz:

On my previous visits I started with an amuse of baby green asparagus, a little overcooked for my taste, topped with paper-thin shavings of aged pecorino cheese that added a tangy and fragrant tang to the asparagus, in a slightly acidic mushroom reduction. I found that amuse more interesting than the duck confit macrosan and I were served this time.

Fragrant Ceviche of Red Snapper

This was an excellent appetizer. The flesh of the red snapper, white with occasional pink engraving, had a firm texture and a very distinctive nutty sweetness with a hint of an ocean flavor that was accentuated mostly by salt, and by a slight residual acidity from the marinade. The fish was sprinkled with fennel seeds, grated, marinated fennel pulp and orange zest(?) and was encircled by a concentrated carrot-colored sauce made of orange zest, lime zest, olive oil and tomato oil which added additional acidity and another level of freshness. The composition ended with tossed baby greens and edible flowers.

I had this appetizer soon after my visit to Annisa where we tried ceviche of tilefish. I have to say that in comparison to the highly acidic marinade and strong-flavored accompaniments that overwhelmed the natural flavor of the fish in Annisa’s version, the Union Pacific ceviche was just delightful.

Sautéed Foie Gras with belimbing and toasted pistachios

A buttery, soft and smooth rare piece of foie gras was accompanied by a celery root purée, pistachios, and a thin, rectangular piece of slightly sweet, pickled belimbing fruit and rested in a brown butter sauce enriched with belimbing juice. The dish was very good; however, the sauce contained too high a level of acidity from the pickled belimbing for my taste for the sweetness in the background.

Lamb Tartare with Chipotle and Golden Raisin Emulsion

The first time I had this appetizer I was pleasantly surprised by not only the complexity of flavors, but also their perfect balance. The smooth raw meat of a lamb burger enriched with minced chipotle peppers, shallots, chervil and other herbs was accompanied by grilled flat, matzo-type bread. The meat came from a two-week-old baby lamb and had a very mild flavor contrary to what I expected. A sweet tone from the golden raisin emulsion was almost undetectable and melded with the natural flavor of the lamb very well. There was no doubt that on my next visit, I would order this appetizer again. I could never imagine that the amount of raisin emulsion, for instance, would be increased by a factor of 10 so that the dish simply would turn into a lamb jam where “the only thing I couldn't taste was lamb.” (macrosan) Very sad indeed.

Tamarind Lacquered White Pekin Duck

I could see the shade of disappointment slowly wandering down macrosan’s face as he started this dish. Unfortunately, I didn’t try his version, but I can certainly imagine how easily this dish could’ve been spoiled.

The first time I tried duck at Union Pacific, it exceeded all my expectations. Five rectangular slices of a mild, tender and juicy White Pekin duck breast in an intense and full-bodied sauce (based on a duck reduction, mirepois, lime juice (not very distinguishable), red wine and white tarragon vinegar (?)), mingled with Mexican bean sauce, leaving green puddles on a dark-brown background, were set on a pile of diced plantains with tiny bits of bacon and baby asparagus. The duck meat was nicely rare, had a mild flavor and succulent texture and had a thin layer of fat, which wasn’t offensive. The plantains had a more starchy than sweet taste the first time I had this dish and were a little sweeter the second time (less preferable), and their smoothness and velvety texture complemented the duck well. The asparagus was a little overcooked for my taste. The accompanying sauce was infused with a distinct basil and tarragon flavor. The duck skin had grill marks and was glazed with a sweetish tamarind sauce which was of a perfectly balanced amount the first time and a little more intrusive the second time. Though the base, duck reduction sauce provided bitterness and acidity, the sweetness came from the tamarind glaze on the duck skin and plantains. I sincerely hope that the version of this dish I tried on my first visit is the standard, not the accident, and I was sorry to see macrosan not being able to experience the best of what this dish could be.

My choice for the second course this time was Halibut with young ginger, pork and shallot cracklin’ I was very unhappy with this dish. The halibut fillet was nicely cooked and the fish in isolation was quite tasty, but it was resting in a ginger(?) sauce so thick and sweet that I’d say it was rather a ginger jam (which was reminiscent of a rose jam). There was simply no way the pork and shallot dust on top of the fish could offset the cloying sweetness of the sauce. I didn’t finish this dish.

Steve, I am not very fond of their desserts and always considered them to be the weakest part of my dining experience at Union Pacific. However, this time in comparison, the desserts were certainly better than the rest of the meal. Previously I tried Mango and Papaya Carpaccio with Pineapple Sorbet with wide mango strips forming a circle on the plate topped with cubes of papaya, which were bound and tightened with gelatin. An oval scoop of a white-colored pineapple sorbet crowned the deep orange-colored mango “flower.” Vanilla seeds sprinkled over the mango petals added the last touch. It was a refreshing dessert, and I would probably order it again, but it was nothing that would call for a special attention.

Milk Parfait with Passion Fruit and Bittersweet Chocolate was interesting in presentation, but also not exceptional in taste. A cylinder of soft and creamy milk custard was topped with a thin layer of the passion fruit gel, thinly shredded dry dough strips, a thin bittersweet chocolate tuille and some fresh herbs (I can’t remember exactly which ones). A bright-green Mexican mint sauce surrounded the custard. It was also a refreshing and an interesting dessert.

Apple Tarte Tartin with Sweet Rice Sorbet was not bad, but not excellent. A soft but crumbly pâte brisée(?) (not the expected puff pastry shell) held a caramelized whole apple resting in a thick vanilla-caramel foam. The sweet rice sorbet had a flavor of rather sugary water, but provided a nice temperature contrast to the warm apple.

I like their sorbets and, less so, their ice creams. The sorbets usually have a very intense fresh fruit flavor with no artificial tang. The last time we had ice creams they included a bitter chocolate scoop, which had a nice bitter tone and was not too sweet; a vanilla scoop, which had a strong vanilla flavor with dots of vanilla seeds; and a caramel scoop, which was the best of the three.

I feel guilty for not posting about my wonderful experiences with previous meals at Union Pacific, and sincerely hope that our recent dinner was an unfortunate exception. Previously I was always amazed how chef Dispirito was able to achieve a remarkable level of complexity in merging different elements together without crossing the line between deliciousness and inappropriateness. This time however, the sweet flavors were exaggerated and dominated each dish. Out of five meals I have had at Union Pacific, this was the only time I left the restaurant less than thrilled.

Macrosan and I had Croze Hermitage Alain Graillot with our meal.

Edited May 8, 2003 by lxt (log)

[ErinB]

I had dinner at Union Pacific last night. Normally, I wouldn't have gone to Union Pacific (I avoid celebrity chef places) but I had a gift certificate that was about to expire. As previous posters have mentioned the decor is amazing.

The meal was average. I felt like in some of the dishes there were too many flavors. It seemed like they were using concord grape way too much.

I had a dish with monkfish and there were these little concord grape squares around the plate. It looked pretty, but i didn't really like the flavor with my fish that was already in a sauce.

Also, I ordered a hot chocolate soup, which came out slightly warm, but should have been much hotter. The same for the complimentary warm chocolate cake they brought out, it was only slightly warm. (and also surrounded by a concord grape sauce)

[SobaAddict70]

When Mr. DiSpirito is on, he turns out little triumphs — for instance, succulently sweet scallops with sea urchin, a touch of heat from mustard oil and a touch of acid from tomato water. It is one of his simplest dishes.

And that turkey schnitzel proved to be two paillards of turkey breast with anchovies and capers slathered between them and then fried. It might as well have been a fried-fish fillet.

The dessert menu is the reason restaurants that charge $68 for a prix fixe meal should have a pastry chef.

Union Pacific (Marian Burros) (from today's DIGEST update. You may have to scroll down for the appropriate link.)

It's not all bad...at least the review doesn't start out that way. But...Rocco, Rocco...wherefore didst thou go wrong, O Rocco?

Does anyone agree with Ms. Burros' assessment? What have your UP experiences been like?

Soba

[Lesley C]

That reads like a one-star review... or even a no-star review.

[Pan]

I was thinking the same thing. She got cold food (that was supposed to be hot) more than once, yet she gives the place 2 stars??? I'm beginning to agree with others who just can't take her star ratings seriously.

I've never been to UP but after her descriptions - not her star rating - I expect it'll be a cold day in Hell before I plunk down $68 + tax and tip (i.e., closer to $90) to get their prix fixe.

[docsconz]

I've had a couple of absolutely fantastic meals at UP and one so-so meal. Rocco happened to be in the kitchen for the fantastic meals but not for the so-so one. Could he have`spread himself too thin? It certainly has the capability to be one helluva restaurant.

[ErinB]

I had an average meal there in November. The combinations of flavors they used in dishes were too confusing and overwhelming. Dishes that should have been hot were not.

My friend had gone about a year before I went and had an amazing meal there. I definitely think it has gone downhill.

[bloviatrix]

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who thought it the review read as less than two stars. It just doesn't add up - too many things seemed to be either bad or go wrong.

[Jinmyo]

Well, UP lost a star. I suppose she didn't want to take them all away. She's only the temp reviewer, after all.

[ErinB]

Union Pacific is a classic example of a celebrity chef restaurant gone bad.

[Lesley C]

Well, UP lost a star. I suppose she didn't want to take them all away. She's only the temp reviewer, after all.

If that's the case, then maybe the temp reviewer shouldn't have tackled such a high profile establishment.

[robert40]

Rocco had to see this coming but its the choice he made I guess.

[Fat Guy]

To at least as great an extent as the star rating should logically follow from a review, a review should be read in light of the star rating. It's entirely possible to give a very negative three-star review if, for example, you're demoting a restaurant from four stars to three. Likewise, it's possible to give a no-holds-barred super-enthusiastic one-star review. Some restaurants, no matter how well they perform, will never be more than one-star restaurants -- they are self-limiting in that regard. Some restaurants, even when they underperform, still merit quite a few stars. I've had some bad experiences at Union Pacific, but also some fantastic ones -- so I see it as an underperforming three-star restaurant.

Didn't Amanda Hesser write a "Diner's Journal" on UP recently? Am I imagining that? I seem to recall it was a rather positive assessment.

[Lesley C]

No you're right. Hesser did, something like three weeks ago. And it was positive.

Steven I agree with you about the stars. But I think she really slammed the place. I don't think I would ever dine at UP after reading that review. Not only was the food uneven, the service was slow. The bad service read like the icing on the one-star-review cake.

[slkinsey]

While this is somewhat tangential to discussion of Union Pacific, it strikes me that this is now the second of Burros' reviews about which we have remarked that the star rating seemed somewhat high given the overall tenor of the review. Perhaps her writing tends to highlight more the negatives than the positives?

[lxt]

The review pretty much reflected my experience with the restaurant, which I still keep on my list of favorites. UP was always inconsistent, which would become especially apparent during the chef’s absence. However, there is no doubt in my mind that UP can be one of the most exciting gastronomic experiences. If the grounds for evaluation were only food with all the necessary fundamentals intact, including the chef’s presence in the kitchen and a flavor balance away from the dramatization of sweetness, I’d say that UP absolutely deserves no fewer than three stars. However, the overall experience and such a dramatic inconsistency not only in service, but in how the same dish can taste on two different occasions perhaps calls for a demotion. The talent of the chef is still apparent, and I hope he’ll be able to get back on his feet soon. The question is how long Rocco has to wait until UP is evaluated again. Also, with so many exciting newcomers to the arena of the New York restaurant life, I assume it’ll be a little harder to fight for market share.

[Fat Guy]

While this is somewhat tangential to discussion of Union Pacific, it strikes me that this is now the second of Burros' reviews about which we have remarked that the star rating seemed somewhat high given the overall tenor of the review.  Perhaps her writing tends to highlight more the negatives than the positives?

Or perhaps we're projecting an inapplicable set of expectations onto her reviews.

[lxt]

While this is somewhat tangential to discussion of Union Pacific, it strikes me that this is now the second of Burros' reviews about which we have remarked that the star rating seemed somewhat high given the overall tenor of the review.  Perhaps her writing tends to highlight more the negatives than the positives?

Or perhaps we're projecting an inapplicable set of expectations onto her reviews.

I am not quite sure whether this review could be seen as being in discordance with the rating that was given to the restaurant. It is quite obvious that the restaurant got demoted for the service and kitchen mistakes primarily, and that full credit was given to chef Dispirito’s talent.

“Some of the food is spectacular, a sophisticated blend of ingredients in unexpected ways, like fluke carpaccio drizzled with sweet cashew purée and a coriander vinaigrette.”

I mostly agreed with the description of the dishes in this review, and concur that some of the dishes were not well conceived or rather not exciting, but the successful ones were far beyond the point of being ignored and certainly outshone less fortunate “productions.” Besides, it is my experience, that there is no restaurant that wouldn’t produce several questionable dishes.

Perhaps one’s view depends more on a perspective from which he applies his evaluation: the best that the restaurant can do or the worst of it. Had I never visited the restaurant and read this review, the phrase I quoted above would be the key point in my decision whether to visit. I didn’t find the review overly negative, just objective.

My impression of this report was that the negatives overwhelmed the potential of the restaurant and on average the performance evaluated to a 2 star level, which I think is fair. I found no dissonance between the review and the grading.

What I do find unfortunate is that after writing a balanced review, Ms. Burros ended on a negative note leaving a bad taste for Union Pacific in a reader’s mouth.

Edited September 28, 2004 by Jason Perlow (log)