Moroccan Cooking/Restaurants - NYC

[Bruce S]

Howdy:

Can anyone recommend a good Moroccan restaurant in New York City or Metro area? Ditto for Moroccan cooking classes. Or have some wonderful tagine recipes?

Thanks much for your help. Bruce

[Pan]

I like Cafe Mogador on St. Mark's Place between 1st Av. and Av. A. It's Moroccan but French-influenced.

[phaelon56]

There's a Moroccan place called Medina on Park Ave in Rutherford NJ - about six miles west of the city. Atmosphere is nice enough but I was unimpressed with the food. I went shortly after they opened - perhaps it's better but I have not heard any raves.

Not in NYC but if you ever get down to Phily try a place called Tangeringe - wonderful tagines and appetizers, very sensuous atmosphere and we found the service to be very friendly despite the sheen of NYC hip one detects upon entry. The portion sizes are large - they actually encourage sharing of entrees. We shared an entree, an appetizer and each had a soup. It was all very good.

[MichaelZ]

Moroccan Star is on Atlantic Avenue, between Clinton & Henry, in Brooklyn Heights/Cobble Hill. It is a good neighborhood restaurant of long-standing. While it may not be "great", it is quietly dependable, friendly and has all of the basic menu items you'd expect to see.

[newyorkomnivore]

La Maison du Couscous, at 484 77th St. in Bay Ridge, is a terrific restaurant. Small, intimate, friendly service, very good authentic food. Their tagines are particularly good.

I think Moroccan Star pales by comparison.

Edited February 6, 2004 by newyorkomnivore (log)

[Bruce S]

Many thanks newyorkomnivore.

I went to La Maison du Couscous on Sunday. It was great. And my appreciation forthe place was seconded by my dinner guest, an Israeli of Moroccan heritage, who grew up eating Moroccan food.

It's a small, but very comfortable neighborhood restuarant where everybody seemed to know each other. Despite our alien status, we were treated very warmly by our waitperson as well as the Harissa. The Harrira was wonderful and my lamb tagine, though a bit greasy, was quite tasty. The best was the assortment of salads we shared as a starter or maybe it was the Moroccan bread or the sweet mint tea we had after dinner or maybe it was ....

Thanks again. I will most certainly return to again appreciate their warm hospitality.

[rgruby]

A recent trip to France, and a few Moroccan meals there has again piqued my interest in the food of Morocco. Can anyone out there tell me how the Moroccan places in NYC compare with those in France and, well, Morocco? I know we're talking gross generalizations here, but ...

Also, the last time I was in NYC (2003) I ate at a small, homey Moroccan place in the East Village. However, I don't really know what the Moroccan resto "scene" is like in New York and environs. A quick search of this board reveals surprisingly little discussion.

So I have a few questions - how many restaurants (roughly) serve true /authentic Moroccan cuisine (I guess as opposed to Moroccan inspired, or having a tajine thrown in amongst other non-Moroccan menu items)? Do the restaurants vary widely in price - i.e. is there a fine dining Moroccan place, something that may be aiming for a couple NYT stars, for example. Are there any places specializing in the cuisine of a particular region, or do they tend to be pan-Moroccan? Does anyone know where the largest Moroccan community (and presumably the one with the most/ most varied restaurant community) in the US is? I've posted this here because I've eaten Moroccan food in New York, it has the most vibrant restaurant scene, and I'm guessing may have the largest Moroccan population as well, but that's pure speculation on my part.

Cheers,

Geoff Ruby

[Pan]

Also, the last time I was in NYC (2003) I ate at a small, homey Moroccan place in the East Village.

←

Cafe Mogador?

I really have no idea whether there's a substantial Moroccan community anywhere in New York. I get the idea that the Arab community around Atlantic Av. and Smith St. may be mostly Yemeni and Levantine. I can't think of any Moroccan restaurants in New York that are trying for 2 stars. And I doubt that you'll find a particular regional emphasis featured, though who I am to say whether that could be the case somewhere I haven't been to? I know it hasn't been true anyplace I _have_ been to.

[rgruby]

Also, the last time I was in NYC (2003) I ate at a small, homey Moroccan place in the East Village.

Cafe Mogador?

Not sure - don't think so. If memory serves, and it may not, it was towards 1st or 2nd, and fairly close to Houston. Not as far up as St. Marks I don't think. Hmm. Cafe Mogador doesn't sound familiar.

[Franci]

A Morron friend of mine, who just opened a restaurant (not moroccon, sorry), reccomanded me also Maison du couscous.

[rozrapp]

Also, the last time I was in NYC (2003) I ate at a small, homey Moroccan place in the East Village.

Might it have been Chez Es Saada? It's on First St., b/t 1st & 2nd Aves. I've never been there.

Our favorite Moroccan restaurant was Lotfi's. I believe it first opened someplace downtown, then moved to W. 46th St., in the Theater District, where it remained for many years before closing a couple of years ago when the chef/owner retired. Since it was owned by a Moroccan couple -- while he manned the stove, she took care of the front of the house, and their son, after whom the restaurant was named, often did waiter duty -- I presumed that the food was fairly authentic. It was certainly very well-prepared and delicious. We miss it.

[Pan]

Franci, what is a Morron? A Moor (as in Berber)?

[phaelon56]

A recent trip to France, and a few Moroccan meals there has again piqued my interest in the food of Morocco. Can anyone out there tell me how the Moroccan places in NYC compare with those in France and, well, Morocco?

Geoff - can yu recommend any of the Moroccan places you tried in Paris? I'm headed there for a week in January and looking for some moderately priced dining options.

Update on Medina in Rutherford - it closed several months ago or even further back than that (not surprising given the prices and the food quality) and was replaced by yet another Italian restaurant.

[rgruby]

Geoff - can yu recommend any of the Moroccan places you tried in Paris? I'm headed there for a week  in January and looking for some moderately priced dining options.

Actually, I can't, because I don't think I've actually had a Moroccan meal in Paris. (I might have the last time around, but I think it was probably Senagalese). My Moroccan meals were in Vannes and Toulouse this time round and Aix on a previous trip.

As for moderately priced dining options in Paris that are not Moroccan, I could recommend a few things. There's a thread in the France board called something like "Can't miss places in Paris" that was helpful to me in planning our trip. There's always the Chinatowns of Belleville and near Place D'Italie. Now that I'm on this Moroccan kick I wish I'd asked the same question in the France board. But getting a bit off topic of Moroccan in New York! Best of luck with your search and have a great time in Paris.

[chefzadi]

A recent trip to France, and a few Moroccan meals there has again piqued my interest in the food of Morocco. Can anyone out there tell me how the Moroccan places in NYC compare with those in France and, well, Morocco? I know we're talking gross generalizations here, but ...

Also, the last time I was in NYC (2003) I ate at a small, homey Moroccan place in the East Village. However, I don't really know what the Moroccan resto "scene" is like in New York and environs. A quick search of this board reveals surprisingly little discussion.

So I have a few questions - how many restaurants (roughly) serve true /authentic Moroccan cuisine  (I guess as opposed to Moroccan inspired, or having a tajine thrown in amongst other non-Moroccan menu items)? Do the restaurants vary widely in price - i.e. is there a fine dining Moroccan place, something that may be aiming for a couple NYT stars, for example. Are there any places specializing in the cuisine of a particular region, or do they tend to be pan-Moroccan? Does anyone know where the largest Moroccan community (and presumably the one with the most/ most varied restaurant community) in the US is? I've posted this here because I've eaten Moroccan food in New York, it has the most vibrant restaurant scene, and I'm guessing may have the largest Moroccan population as well, but that's pure speculation on my part.

Cheers,

Geoff Ruby

←

I'll probably go to Morocco next year. But from what my Moroccan friends tell me the restaurant scene is not well developed. This is probably true in the rest of North Africa. Street food can be excellent. There are a few restaurants here and there that serve excellent food of course. I'll be getting specific reccomendations soon, but I suspect I'll be eating more home cooking from friends. Chefs with European training are also going back to North Africa to open restaurants. There are a few professional culinary schools in North Africa now.

The Moroccan food in Paris and North African in general is for the most part better then what I've had in the States. Simply because there are more Maghrebis in France. As for the less expensive couscous joints, I've heard many of them incorrectly described as serving Algerian style couscous. BS!!!! Some of the places serve very good, simple food but it's not representive of Algerian cuisine. Alot of times even I can't tell if the cook/chef is Algerian, Tunisian or Moroccan.

Also in France and in America you'll find an Algerian cook/chef preparing Moroccan or a Tunisian doing Algerian or a Moroccan doing Tunisian. Sometimes restaurants transfer hands and the new owner doesn't bother to change the sign. Also it's not like a trained Tunisian chef can't prepare Moroccan, the spicing varies regionally, but more variations occur from cook to cook. And the cooking techniques and ingredients are the same.

Anyway, if the place is owned by a North African whether it's in France or in the States the food will most likely be authentic if not representative.

(No bellydancers please)

[MHesse]

Bruni reviewed Barbes (Morrocan / French) on E 26th Street in the Times today. Gave it one star.

[chefzadi]

The name Barbes itself suggest shtick. My North African and French friends joke about it all the time, as in if I named a restaurant I should call it "Bistro Barbes" or "Cafe Barbes" or "l'Arabe qui fume" (like the chain Le Chien qui fume) and so on. Barbes is the North African "hood" (pronounced 'ood' in French)

The restaurant's chef and co-owner, Abdellah Ksiyer, is Moroccan. He opened Barbès early last year with Omar Balouma, who is Algerian and operates a Moroccan party-planning business called Omar the Tent Man. That name suggests a tendency toward shtick that, blessedly, doesn't get a thorough workout at Barbès.]It keeps the midnight-at-the-oasis motifs to a minimum.

An Algerian with a Moroccna party-planning business (or the other way around) goes back to my earlier point

Also in France and in America you'll find an Algerian cook/chef preparing Moroccan or a Tunisian doing Algerian or a Moroccan doing Tunisian. Sometimes restaurants transfer hands and the new owner doesn't bother to change the sign. Also it's not like a trained Tunisian chef can't prepare Moroccan, the spicing varies regionally, but more variations occur from cook to cook. And the cooking techniques and ingredients are the same.

Rice? What is this rice, compared to the versatility of couscous? :

Mr. Ksiyer apparently steams his couscous four times, an elaborate process with a pillowy payoff. In his worshipful hands, couscous could rattle rice's hegemony. It could even put linguine on the defensive.

I don't really understand Bruni's writing in this one. What does he mean "dubbed", doesn't dub mean " to honor with a new title or description"?

[lambretta76]

I'm always surprised that Barbès is instantly associated with North African culture. The apartment I stay at while in Paris is right off of Blvd. Rochechouart and the cultures represented seem to not only be Moroccan and Algerian, but also a great number of Senegalese and people from Chad.

Also, there is a French-style bar in Park Slope also called Barbès.

As for the best in the city - Bay Ridge seems to have the stranglehold on that title between La Maison du Couscous and Les Babouches.

I used to really love Lamamounia on Steinway Street in Astoria, but I think it has since closed. Are there currently any good Moroccan restaurants on Steinway or in that vicinity, or have the reins been handed over to the Egyptians?

[chefzadi]

I'm always surprised that Barbès is instantly associated with North African culture

Not 'culture' it's like the 'hood'.

For instance "Bistro Barbes" is sort of like "Casa East LA"

EDIT: There is a sense of humor and irony in a North African restaurant outside of Barbes calling itself Barbes. I like the name. I also want to clarify that East LA has a rich cultural history for Mexicans in LA and there are lots of grass roots arts projects there. If anyone is interested in learning a bit more about Barbes google "Barbes North Africans" It's more than North African of course, it's a strong reflection of "ethnic" France.

Edited July 7, 2005 by chefzadi (log)

[zeitoun]

As for the best in the city - Bay Ridge seems to have the stranglehold on that title between La Maison du Couscous and Les Babouches.

I used to really love Lamamounia on Steinway Street in Astoria, but I think it has since closed. Are there currently any good Moroccan restaurants on Steinway or in that vicinity, or have the reins been handed over to the Egyptians?

←

I agree with your Bay Ridge recommendations, nothing beats it really in the city.

Steinway Street is indeed changing rapidly, it is now mostly Egyptian and Levantine. I recall having a decent couscous somewhere there two years ago, can't remember where exactly though. But to echo chefzadi's coments, take advantage of Paris, there you'll find the best couscous outside of North Africa.

[lambretta76]

Had a surprisingly good meal at Jour et Nuit, the new Moroccan joint on Steinway Street just south of 29th Ave. (I believe the address is 29-04, but I may be mistaken.)

Zaalouk salad to start was nice and peppery, with just a kick of harissa. A little preserved lemon flavor, too, which was nice. Served with a half lemon and some warm Moroccan bread. (The bread was fine, but Maison du Couscous is much better.)

For entrees, I had the mixed grill (merguez, kofta, and chicken) and my friend the lamb tagine. The merguez was very loosely filled and had a great flavor - a fell it may have been homemade. The kofta was nicely grilled, but had a little gaminess from the lamb - however, these were also quite enjoyable - I was just hoping for some sauce or something for this. The chicken was cubed and perfectly grilled over what tasted like charcoal, but I didn't notice a charcoal grill in there. It was accompanied by a sie of so-so fries and an addictive bean salad of which I couldn't identify anything, including the beans. The lamb tagine was excellent - perfectly cooked, moist and flavorful, lamb surrounded by a mountain of peas, with some other vegetables (potatoes, onions, a preserved lemon or two, etc.)

All of this came to $27 including tax, but not tip. Stopped at Laziza afterwards for tasty dessert. We shot down a hookah at Eastern Nights and instead ended up getting a six-pack of Tecate and watching Harold & Kumar Go To White Castle - a fantastic culinary-themed movie. Sort of.

[chefzadi]

addictive bean salad of which I couldn't identify anything, including the beans.

Maybe fava beans or haricot blancs? It could be chick peas, but I assume you would be able to recognize that easily.

[lambretta76]

They were indeed fava beans. It's crazy, in all of my culinary adventures, I've never been served a whole fava bean. Bizarre! Well, the salad was quite tasty. Thanks!

[Habeas Brulee]

I went to Maison du Couscous last night. The waiter (who also seemed to be the owner, maybe?) was sort of funny and sort of obnoxious. He equated our saying that it was our saying it was our first time there with it being our first time eating Moroccan food, which it was not.

He gave me and the one woman at the table next to ours extra napkins, saying, "Ladies usually end up needing extra napkins."

On the other hand - the food was wonderful.

The kofta cigars (an appetizer) were delicious, and I would love to learn what they use for the rolls. He said it was filo when we asked, but it looked and tasted nothing like any filo I've ever had before. I wonder if it actually was warka. If so, I'm now ready to try making my own warka at last. The Berber tagine had meltingly tasty lamb shank, artichoke hearts, carrots, potatoes, peas, and olives. The couscous was very light and fluffy, and even finer-grained than the couscous I usually make at home. The mint tea was splendid.

The only thing I tried and didn't like were the dessert briwats, filled with an almond paste that I believe involved rosewater, orange blossom water, and some ground sesame seeds. It was the sesame taste that didn't quite work for me there, and they were a little too densely sweet for me. My partner thought they were good, though, so that may just be a matter of taste.

The waiter-and-maybe-owner said they are revamping their website, and already have some new photos that will be up once their tech guy down the block makes it happen. He also said that they're changing their menu and adding a bunch of new dishes. He described some of them to us, and they did sound very good.

I don't take well to sexism. As a woman, I don't need more napkins than my male companion. I bristle quite a lot at that assumption. But the food really was excellent; it was good enough that I intend to overlook my irritation at the waiter and go back for more. That's really saying something for me.

[raji]

Was it that obvious an insult? Maybe he simply meant women keep themselves cleaner than men?

My HS french teacher loved to tell the story of how she went to Morocco with her Italian husband who was offered several camels in exchange FOR her. That's Borat-level sexism... Morocco IS an Arabic nation after all, so maybe you were expecting it a bit?

Has anyone been to Tagine @ 39th and 9th recently? It's always seemed like people go there for the belly-dancing and not the food, but if it was not good, that would be strange as that stretch of 9th Avenue dependably yields at least one superlative restaurant of every nationality (except Indian as it were) and that place has been around seemingly forever...

If not Tagine then where?

P.S. Can't stand belly-dancing...