eG Foodblog: Jackal - Xmas week

[jackal10]

Thankyou for the nice words, but it is really a pleasure to give something back for all the great blogs and postings I have read here. You arew such an appreciative audience!

Mayhaw: The cheese came from the Cambridge Cheese Company (Jacky Sutton-Adam [jackysuttonadam@ukonline.co.uk]). Good, a little expensive (that was $100 worth of cheese) but the London cheese factors, like Neals Yard are even better - we are just a provincal university town. I expect they would ship to the US but the cost might be prohibitive. I fail to understand why the US bans decent unpastaurised artisan farmhouse cheese, when there is no recorded example of illness caused by them, but many instances of food poisoning from badly made or stored factory cheeses.

Christmas eve supper: Reveillon

Actually this is really only the first meatless part of Reveillon; Reveillon (the awakening) is the meat supper after midnight mass.

Celery and Anchoide (garlic, anchovy and olive oil dip)

Soup: L'aigo boulido. Recipe is here

"boiled water": garlic and herbs, with olive oil, bread and grated Gruyere croutes. Provence comfort food, reccomended for invalids

Saltfish and Ackee: recipe is here

Ackee is the fruit of the breadfruit tree. It has the look and texture of scrambled eggs. The saltfish is basically used as a flavouring.

Gratin of Cauliflower: cauliflower cheese with the odd hardboiled egg

Jill's Famous Trifle

"Treize Deserts": the thirteen deserts, plus some, which will stay as a sort of running buffet just in case anyone feel peckish

Left (plus Venus Nipples, chocolate ginger, Panneforte)

Middle

Right (plus fresh lychees and the mince pies) The apples are home grown Laxton Fortune from store

We drank, .

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht: Pinot Gris Alsace Hunawihr Clos Windsbuhl 1996 (Parker 95)

and very good it was too. Alsace wines are really neglected.

Th yule log is on the fire

Time for a glass of port, or possibly one of Damson Gin (see egcI Autumn Preserves), and relax. Turkey and Xmas pud tomorrow.

Hang up the stockings and I hope Santa Claus brings what you want, and plenty of good vittles. Don't forget to put out his mince pies and carrots for the reindeer. You can track his progress on The official NORAD early warning radar

Merry Christmas! Peace on Earth and Goodwill to all!

(although it seems unlikely with the current set of politicians)

Edited December 24, 2003 by jackal10 (log)

[jackal10]

Christmas morning...

I need Coffee....

Breakfast and generally wake up, light the fire. Put he Xmas pud on.

I guess we will eat about 2.30pm

The turkey will need maybe 3 hours at 65C/150F, so needs to go on about 11.30.

I don't know why people get so uptight about cooking turkey - its only a big chicken.

Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826) writes about turkey in "La Physiologie du Gout", translated as "The Philosopher in the Kitchen", the book that defines a gourmand and gourmandism. He says

"In the high places of gastronomy, at those select gatherings where politics are forced to give way to dissertations upon taste, what do the guests hope for and long for as a second course? A truffled turkey! "

In his memory we will add truffles to the turkey. Maybe not "stuffed spherical with Perigord truffles" as he describes, but "en demi-deuil" (in half mourning), with black trufffle slipped under the skin.

About 10.30 I will make make some Bloody Mary's, and we will have the Grand Opening of Presents.

Edited December 25, 2003 by jackal10 (log)

[beans]

About 10.30 make I will make some Bloody Mary's, and we will have the Grand Opening of Presents.

Ditto here. Precisely, however five hours behind. Except some of those goodie presents have already been opened.... Golly, I feel like I'm 5 years old again, but with yummy beverages.

Happy Christmas jackal10.

[Anna N]

A most wonderful Christmas, Jack, to you and your family. Many, many thanks for sharing with us.

[Mabelline]

Most merry and happy holidays! To you and yours... Jill's trifle looks scrumptious and Marge the Basset shall be a lucky dog indeed!!

[JLN67]

Jackal, I have been utterly capitvated by your fabulous blog. The beautiful pictures really are quite amazing, and I almost feel as if I'm right there with you. Thank you for taking the time to share your world with us.

A very Merry Christmas to you and yours!

[helenjp]

Merry Christmas! Our Christmas Day is almost over, yours no doubt in full swing!

REALLY enjoyed seeing all the pix, especially of the breads...for Torakris and I it's like another world!

I vote with those who think that collection of cheeses photos was just TOO pornographic! Good cheese and cheap fruit are two things that I will never stop missing in Japan. Santa gave our sons some tiny Babybel cheeses found in a Tokyo supermarket ... but Santa forgot to tell them not to eat the waxy coating. Santa was surprised to hear one son say that the wax tasted pretty good...

Your Christmas Eve had everything covered -- the traditions, the tastes, the sounds. We started listening to boychoir music when one son was recommended to audition and have come to enjoy that astonishing sound. A small German boys' choir visited a couple of years ago and not only performed a nice range of songs, but also a small operatic spoof which had our singing son in stitches, and then they invited local kids up onto the stage with them -- a riot, and a reminder that boychoirs are full of...boys!

[hjshorter]

Merry Christmas Jack, and thank you for the glimpse into your family's celebrations this week. Another thank you for the reminder to listen to the Nine Lessons and Carols. The rebroadcast is just finishing up here and it was a lovely way to spend the morning.

We had coffee, bagels and smoked salmon for breakfast, homemade stollen for elevenses, and we've just started the prep for the bouillabaise and rouille.

Happy Christmas everyone!

[SethG]

You didn't mention it, Jack, but I see you've got some Dulce de Membrillo in your "middle" photo there! How do you keep that stuff around the house? I made a big batch a couple weeks ago and it was gone in seconds.

(The answer, obviously, is to make so many wonderful things that no one thing gets all the attention.)

Marry Christmas, and thanks again for your blog.

[jackal10]

I've eaten and drunk too much (as Hoffning says "Well fed up and agreeably drunk"), and the kitchen looks like a tip. Still there are enough people around to help clear.... More boasting, and my spelling is probably even worse than usual.

First the wines.

We started with champagne, then claret: Leoville Las Cases (St Julien) 1986 (98 points, but going over) then the ultimate Christmas pudding wine: Ch Le Caillou (Montbazillac) 1943. This story behind this remarkable wine is one of triumph over adversity as told by the person who sold it to me ($100/bottle) goes:

"This is a story of tradition and peasant survival in time of war, long before the advent of oenologues and the fashion for early drinking. Our protagonists are M. et Mme. Pierre Eymery, then in their early to mid twenties; the vintage 1943. The Germans are occupying France and requisitioning wine for their own drinking. Chaptalisation is not officially authorised, and even if it were to be practised illegally, there is no sugar to be had. The harvest is dried by fierce wind, and there is little juice in the grapes. The wine is remarkable, reminiscent of the great 1929, but even more concentrated. It must not fall into the hands of the Germans. Pierre’s parents still have that famous ’29 in barrel, ageing gently, and secreted in an underground cellar. They decide to do the same with the ’43 and lodge it in old demi-muids, topping it up from time to time. In 1988, for the marriage of a cherished grandchild, they decide to bottle the wine without fining or filtering, in clear bottles sealed with wax.

Shortly after this, I am given a bottle by friends in the area, and finding it extraordinary, persuade them, for cash, to part with a case. In 2002, they contact me again wondering, as M. Pierre is now 85, whether I would like to buy the remaining stocks. I retaste, and find it still quite remarkable, a combination of rich, burnt flavours and incredible freshness; it’s so stable it does not move after being open for three days"

Entirely true. Even though its sixty years old, its as fresh as the day it was made, and perfect for Chirstmas. We drunk it with due reverence, but then wine is for drinking, besides I've laid down another case.

Back to the prep.

Christmas pudding (see egCI Autumn Preserves) on to simmer.

Stock from the turkey giblets (except the liver) for the gravy

Made the Brandy Butter (4oz softened butter, 4oz soft brown sugar, juice of half a lemon and as much brandy as it will adsorb; whiz together)

Prep the turkey (10lb Organic Norfolk Bronze).

Put herb and garlic butter under the skin, from the neck end. You can just see the slices of truffles through the skin. Stuff the neck cavity with sausagemeat (with extra onion and pepper). Leave the body unstuffed - just season and an onion and half a lemon. About 3 hours in a very low oven (65C).

Get in vegetables from the garden: baby purple sprouts, purple potatoes, yellow carrots and jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes)

and prep them

Ready for lunch (about 2.30pm, but we paused to watch the Queen's message)

Marge the basset hound looking hopeful, but wary of the camera

Champagne, caviar and Keta on Blini.

I was going to do egg and onion blini as well, but it sort of turned into chopped tukey liver. Mixing my cultures, and showing my background...

Croutes of Truffled Brandade, and Tapendade

Shot glasses of Consomme with gold leaf.

(Remember the braised brisket?)

Half an hour in a hot oven to brown the turkey - ended at 55C.

Ready to carve. Also a vegetarian low-carb stuffing for the awkward people

Made from chestnuts (use cooked sous-vide ones (merchant Gourmet). Peeling chestnut is for others, unless roast by the fire), onions, leeks, garlic, sweated together, and bound with eggs. Half an hour in a loaf tin in a hot oven). Alo the bread sauce. I forgot the chain of sausages and the bacon rolls

You can just see the tradtional crackers. When pulled (one person grasps either end) they come apart with a pyrotechnic snap, and the contents spill out. Traditionally these are a small gift, a paper motto with an excrutiating joke, and a paper hat. One pockets the gift, or trades it around the table, put on the hat and reads out loud the joke. Being up market, these had rather nice silver trinkets - mine was a pair of cufflinks.

The purple sprouts roasted in olive oil with truffle butter

Potatoes and parsnips roasted in goose fat; carrots and artichokes; plain brussels

One of our guests had generously brought a Foie Gras Terrine ("I brought some Pate"). Following sklinsky's example I served quenelles of it with the turkey. I can confirm it goes wonderfully with turkey breast, adding richness and smoothness.

Which brings us to the Pudding.

Pouring flaming brandy over it. You can just see the flames

Coffee, sweeties, digestifs...

Now I might just be able to manage a little of the Stilton, but then I must go and lie down for a while...

Seth: Yes, that is the Membrillo. It is one of the 13 deserts. The other way is to keep it to make lots (in the egCI Autumn preserves). Our Quince tree was very prolific this year.

Edited December 25, 2003 by jackal10 (log)

[ronnie_suburban]

*Wild Applause*

Fan-frigging-tastic Jack!

Again, best holiday wishes to you and yours

(...and please be sure to give Marge a rub on the belly from us)

=R=

[jackal10]

I fogot to say that Marge got a roasted marrow bone, and was very pleased with it... She also got to chase (but not able to catch) rabbits, and the pheasants took one look and made themelves scarce

Joyeux Noel!

Edited December 25, 2003 by jackal10 (log)

[torakris]

Thanks for all of the picutures!

I really felt (almost) like I was right there enjoying the meal with you. Like Helen mentioned before Christmas is really such a disappointment in Japan, it is really no different than any other day..... my husband worked, the kids played with friends, I watched a movie.....

Of course being in Japan we have next week to look forward to, the biggest eating days of the year are coming up for us!

Happy Holidays to all!

[jackal10]

Of course being in Japan we have next week to look forward to, the biggest eating days of the year are coming up for us!

That sounds dangerously like an invitation to be tagged...

[torakris]

Of course being in Japan we have next week to look forward to, the biggest eating days of the year are coming up for us!

That sounds dangerously like an invitation to be tagged...

I don't know how anyone could follow this!

I don't even have a dog and I killed my goldfish last year.........

[bloviatrix]

Wow!! I'm in awe of everything. Marge is adorable.

[jat]

A masterpiece of love and sharing. It reminds me of a favorite

movie, Babette's Feast - a celebration of life and a gift of love.

Food is just one of the gifts that we can appreciate and be

grateful for. Every day. Thank you for taking the time to

share yourself with us.

[elyse]

Lovely blog Jackal. Thanks for putting so much time into it!

Edited December 26, 2003 by elyse (log)

[fifi]

Dog? Basset? A basset named Marge? How did I miss that? I am a basset hound FREAK! I had my lovely Sophie for 15 years and can't wait until I can get another one. Maybe two.

Thank you for sharing your lovely home and your holiday. May you and all of your loved ones (and especially the dog ) have a happy season and continued happiness in the new year.

edit to add: Oh! Now I see what I missed. Damn. And give the very distinguished Marge a hug for me. She obviously comes from a very aristocratic line.

[SobaAddict70]

Jack,

do your guests know about eGullet? Here's a warm and hearty welcome to any of them that might decide to delurk.

Now you have to tell us what you're planning for New Year's.

Soba

[jackal10]

Dismembered the turkey, and am making stock from the carcass.

As always about half left - enough for about 10 servings...

I plan a brunch for later today when the rest of the household eventually emerges. Really an excuse for fried Christmas pud.

New Years's (as I said in the first post to this thread) will be Hogmanay - Scottish theme: Haggis etc, and a tall dark stranger to first-foot with a lump of coal and a bottle of malt whisky...but by then it should be someone else blogging.

How long do you want me to go on? Personally I'd love to hear about the Japanese festivities next week. I love Japanese food, but know far too little about real domestic cookery there - we only see restaurant set pieces here. Looks like I might get a trip to Japan in May next year. There is a conference in Kyoto (Hotel Granvia 19-21 May 2004) at which I might speak.

Edited December 26, 2003 by jackal10 (log)

[helenjp]

GO TORAKRIS!!!

Thanks for the extra shine your blog gave Christmas here in Japan, Jackal, and hope you get to that conference in Kyoto...and the food of western Japan does NOT begin and end with Kyoto's traditional dishes, either!

[Mayhaw Man]

Bravo! Bravo!

Your blog was a really nice addition to the Holidays. Thanks so much for taking the time. What a heroic effort!

[jackal10]

Its not over yet...I guess I should hand over either Saturday or Monday am, unless you are bored with my ramblings.

Fried Xmas pud is the best...with bacon, sausage (Musks Newmarket Christmas Special), eggs, tomatos, mushrooms...the wimps rejected fried bread, fried potatoes, etc, but had toast and marmelade.

Must make more bread - we are getting through it.

Tonight we go to the neighbors. I guess its leftover turkey season.

[Mabelline]

Jackal10, my thanks for all of this wonderful STUFF. And a special thanks for including Marge! As far as the Hogmanay celebrating, I saw your picture and I figure one of your neighbors will tag you for the "footfirst", so get your malt whiskey and coal ready!