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Posted

I found the discussion elsewhere about Carbonara very interesting when it diverted into a general discussion of Italian food, and it made me think.  Does food history accurately document what alternatives were used to New World foods which have LATER become staples of various cuisines?  Tomatoes and Italian food.  Many Asian cuisines and Peanut Oil.  Corn and everybody.  Potatoes too, right?  Chocolate... So much of what we take for granted in modern food didn't exist in other parts of the world until relatively late in history.

Did rice, wheat, squash, etc. really take up all the slack?  Now I'm not really talking about Peasant food--the poor always ate differently--but what did the elite eat?

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

Posted

I think, for the most part, I wouldn't have wanted to be a food critic anywhere in the world prior to the 19th Century. It's not just a question of being stuck with a very limited spectrum of local-origin ingredients, it's also about lack of refrigeration and other technology that has made it possible to eat fresh, wholesome food year-round. I don't care how elite you were in the Middle Ages, your winter was a long one in terms of what you could get to eat. That is, if you could eat anything other than gruel given that your dental situation probably became pretty much unbearable after your teen years. If you lived that long.

Where was I? Oh, yes, many aspects of food history are pretty well documented in a number of books. It actually seems it's easier to find out what was on the menu at a banquet in Egypt three millennia ago than it is to find the origins of carbonara.

If you have 贝 to spare, you can get the two-volume Cambridge World History of Food, which contains enough information to defeat even the most acute case of insomnia.

The most enjoyable book I've read on this subject is, unfortunately, out of print. But you can probably find it around somewhere: Why We Eat What We Eat : How the Encounter Between the New World and the Old Changed the Way Everyone on the Planet Eats. It's one of the only food-history books written by somebody who actually loves and appreciates food. I know, you wouldn't think a non-food-lover would bother to pursue a career in writing about food history, but the food-academia subculture is full of just such people.

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Steven A. Shaw

www.fat-guy.com

Posted

Perhaps the greatest example we have from ancient times are the writings of Marcus Gavius Apicius, who lived in ancient Rome and recorded recipies of many dishes that were eaten by the elite as well as the common man at the time.

Heres some of his stuff that was translated from Latin:

http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~mjw/recipes/ethnic/historical/ant-rom-coll.html

heres another site which includes stuff from medieval europe:

http://www.bahnhof.se/~chimbis/tocb/

Posted

There's even a Michelin two-star restaurant in Paris named after Apicius, though I don't think his recipes predominate.

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Steven A. Shaw

www.fat-guy.com

Posted

all this makes a mockery of the purists who demand authenticity in all things; fusion has been the norm for hundreds of years there are no pure cuisines.

Posted

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote: from donwalsh on 7:28 pm on July 22, 2001

all this makes a mockery of the purists who demand authenticity in all things; fusion has been the norm for hundreds of years there are no pure cuisines.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Precisely.

Steven A. Shaw aka "Fat Guy"
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)

Posted

I wouldn't go that far. There certainly has been a lot of cross-pollination of ingredients and techniques throughout history -- a process that is ongoing. And it's crazy to be a hyper-purist and to ignore that cuisines develop all the time. But there's a big difference between cuisine that has developed over hundreds of years, or even decades, and cuisine that a single chef invents in his head in five minutes. Time is a very important component of the evolution of cuisine. When it's dispensed with, results are mixed -- mostly bad. The occasional genius (Adria, Gagnaire) can create compelling fusion cuisine without reference to tradition, but they are the exceptions that prove the rule.

-----

Steven A. Shaw

www.fat-guy.com

Posted

It's little different from the argument between innovation and traditionalism in any art form. The man of average talent is best advised to stick to the established conventions. The genius has a bit more flexibility.

Posted

still fat guy the point is there's no point in the crazy traditionalism of those people who are always decrying dishes as inauthentic adulterated etc... if it tastes good eat it and shut up

Posted
Quote: from Gil Shamir x on 9:46 pm on Aug. 5, 2001

Preet what do you think about Gastronomica? Does it show promise?

I thought the magazine had some interesting articles but since I passed it on I don't remember which ones. I'll report on the next one I get. I have a book called Food in Antiquity by Don and Patricia Brothwell which deals with the eating and drinking habits of early people.I also have one called Food in History by Reay Tannahill. Has anyone read these books?

(Edited by Rosie at 11:30 am on Aug. 6, 2001)

Rosalie Saferstein, aka "Rosie"

TABLE HOPPING WITH ROSIE

Posted

One of the New World ingredients that I've taken most interest in are chile peppers.  Can you imagine Thai, Indonesian or Indian cuisine without them?

=Mark

Give a man a fish, he eats for a Day.

Teach a man to fish, he eats for Life.

Teach a man to sell fish, he eats Steak

  • 9 months later...
Posted

What's all of this "x" stuff about?

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

Posted

Ha ha ha.  :biggrin:

XOXOXO

"I've caught you Richardson, stuffing spit-backs in your vile maw. 'Let tomorrow's omelets go empty,' is that your fucking attitude?" -E. B. Farnum

"Behold, I teach you the ubermunch. The ubermunch is the meaning of the earth. Let your will say: the ubermunch shall be the meaning of the earth!" -Fritzy N.

"It's okay to like celery more than yogurt, but it's not okay to think that batter is yogurt."

Serving fine and fresh gratuitous comments since Oct 5 2001, 09:53 PM

Posted

Back at the VERY beginning (the non-public beta period) a few dozen of us were all Xtra-ordinary and Xtra-privledged.  We had to wear Dashikis and those funny brimless hats and were all known by "X" labels.

Not.

Jon Lurie, aka "jhlurie"

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