Trio Kitchen Table

[ronnie_suburban]

I have deleted a few posts which had changed the focus of this thread. Let's please keep the conversation on this thread--positive or negative--focused on Trio and Chef Achatz's work.

While I think the 'traditional vs. avant garde' debate is an interesting one, it would be best handled in its own thread and not piggybacked onto this one.

Thanks for your understanding.

=R=

[milla]

today i noticed the name of the new chef at trio was announced on their website.

his name is Dale Levitski from Blackbird.

[ronnie_suburban]

today i noticed the name of the new chef at trio was announced on their website.

his name is Dale Levitski from Blackbird.

He was also, most recently the chef at La Tache. This news was reported here a few weeks ago.

It looks like Trio will be changing gears rather significantly--although under Henry's hand, I'm sure the transition with be a smooth and successful one.

=R=

[chicagowench]

My mom and I dined at Trio on Friday night. With the exception of one small flub (they had neglected to note a couple of food allergies properly, so the opening amusee would have sent both mom and I to the hospital. Whoops) which they immediately corrected, it was as wonderful and breathtaking as the last time we'd gone.

We did have a lengthy conversation with our captain about the new direction, which he described as 'bistro with the Trio touch. in terms of cuisine and service'. The room will be completely redone, including a lounge area.

[inventolux]

Dinner at trio sunday night..............beautiful. My top 4 experiences in my career have all happened at trio over the past 2 1/2 years. Its been awesome watching a restaurant achieve so much in such a short time.

Edited July 29, 2004 by inventolux (log)

[Bicycle Lee]

yes....I have to say...my next culinary adventure will have to be to Chi-Town...Alinea, will most definitely be on the list...as well as your restaurant, Homaru....I can't wait to experience both.

[yellow truffle]

Grant Achatz does it like Baskin Robbins.

Like the famed tag line of Baskin Robbins, 31 flavors (for each day of the month), Chef Grant Achatz one-up's the ice cream retail store. For the final kitchen table experience at Trio with Chef Achatz, we were able to experience the Tour de Force Plus, with 32 courses and wine pairings. This was a 7 1/2 hour dining experience.

It as supposed to be a 26 course Tour de Force, but the chef got wind that we were still hungry. In actuality, we were just right, but could still eat and drink. Upon hearing this from one of the staff, Chef Achatz, broke ranks, turned to us (with the look of fire and astonishment) and said, "Are you still hungry?" Of course we replied, slightly embarrassed and coyish, affirmatively. Chef turned around looks up, and goes into a standing 'thinking man' position while he ponders the situation.

Like a bunch of gitty school girls, we were looking at each other in great joy and amazement, when we got dish after dish. There was a sort of controlled-chaos in the kitchen as they had to prepare something that was not on the menu. Some were from the 4 course tasting and a couple from the previous menu's. There was even a dish brought out that has never hit the table at Trio. Everyone in the kitchen was overlooking the Chef's shoulders, as he made the final touches to the dish.

The last day was such great fun. Not just for us, but for everyone in the kitchen and the restaurant. There were line cooks taking photos of people and Chef G in action. There was allot more interaction with the staff (I think everyone came to our table). There was also a great number of diners that came into the kitchen and paid their respects to the man.

To Chef G, thank you for generosity and we enjoyed being your playground. I wish you the best of luck in your new endeavor. I am very excited to have experienced you at Trio and cannot wait to be part of the next chapter. Ohh btw, we could have kept eating and drinking.

[ronnie_suburban]

Oh do I wish I could have been there! Unfortunately, I had an out of town obligation. Sounds like it was a very special night. Thanks for the report.

=R=

[amccomb]

My husband and I had the Tour de Force with the wine pairings on the last night (Sat.) as well. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. It was a night I'll never forget.

Now, a question:

We left a 20% (actually a little more) tip, but I felt like it wasn't enough. Did we stiff our servers by leaving 20%?

A second question:

We ordered an aperitif before dinner, and mine was made with some sort of peppercorns and white port. I should have paid more attention to the description. Can anyone tell me what was in it? Also, my husband had a very herbacious tasting drink. What was in that one? We were in love from the first sip.

[yellow truffle]

We ordered an aperitif before dinner, and mine was made with some sort of peppercorns and white port. I should have paid more attention to the description. Can anyone tell me what was in it?  Also, my husband had a very herbacious tasting drink. What was in that one? We were in love from the first sip.

What?

I did not even know that you could do that.

We arrived at Trio sans our fourth and had to wait 15 minutes. We decided to order a drink, but were advised against it by Mr. Adaniya (Henry) since we were having the wine pairing with dinner and that may conflict with the flavors. But the peppercorns and white port sounds divine. Did you notice anyone else having this concoction?

[robyn]

My husband and I had the Tour de Force with the wine pairings on the last night (Sat.) as well. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. It was a night I'll never forget.

Now, a question:

We left a 20% (actually a little more) tip, but I felt like it wasn't enough. Did we stiff our servers by leaving 20%?

A second question:

We ordered an aperitif before dinner, and mine was made with some sort of peppercorns and white port. I should have paid more attention to the description. Can anyone tell me what was in it? Also, my husband had a very herbacious tasting drink. What was in that one? We were in love from the first sip.

20% is fine anywhere.

I'm not sure about any drinks made with peppercorns. Robyn

[amccomb]

Did you notice anyone else having this concoction?

Yes, we did notice a couple of other people drinking it. It was served out of a very distinct container and whenever we saw someone else being served that particular drink, we would comment again on how yummy it was.

[chefseanbrock]

would you guys mind posting the menu from "grant's last stand" ....i would love to see it...any pictures?????

Edited August 5, 2004 by chefseanbrock (log)

[RyneSchraw]

A second question:

We ordered an aperitif before dinner, and mine was made with some sort of peppercorns and white port.  I should have paid more attention to the description.  Can anyone tell me what was in it?  Also, my husband had a very herbacious tasting drink.  What was in that one?  We were in love from the first sip.

Although I'm not completely sure about the herbacious tasting drink (it could have been a dry vermouth like Noilly Prat or Lillet, b/c I have seen Trio use these as aperitifs before, as they commonly do in France), I can definitely set you up with the peppercorn/port drink.

Trio's been using it as one of their house drinks for at least the last year and calling it "Vya con Porto" Basically you take a bottle of white port (they use Dow) and add Vya sweet vermouth to taste and roasted Thai long-peppercorns. Vya is a high-end vermouth made by California-based Quady winery (www.vya.com will tell you the whole story) and is pretty strong stuff (flavor wise I mean), so add a small amount first, and then add more if you like. I guess the same would go for the peppercorns, but definitely heat them up a bit first to bring out the flavor. The spiciness that hits the back of your throat when you drink this is what it's all about, so don't go too light on them.

A side note is that Trio's other house drink, the Trio Royale, adds the same Vya sweet vermouth to a Kir Royale. Really, I think it's great stuff and if you like vermouth at all or vermouth-based drinks then Vya is worth trying, both the sweet and dry versions. Compared to cheaper $5-7 a bottle vermouth, it's like comparing Angostura bitters to the real Italian amaros--Fernet Branca or Averna.

Edited August 5, 2004 by RyneSchraw (log)

[yellow truffle]

From the Chicago Tribune: Trio's Last Night

[amccomb]

Here is the menu we had on the last day:

Caramelized Sri Lankan Eggplant

Wild Steelhead Roe

saké, tosaka seaweed, cucumber

Charred Pineapple

smoked salmon, shichimi togarashi, soy

Chilled English Peas

ramps, eucalyptus, yogurt, ham

Black Truffle Explosion

Maine Lobster

flavors of Thai ice tea, aromatic bread

Hot Fava Bean and Cold Parmesan Purees

olive oil, lavender

Chicharrones con salsa

Elysian Fields Farm Lamb

sunflower plant, bag of crispy texture

“Cheese ‘n Cracker”

Moulard Duck Foie Gras

blueberries, cinnamon tapioca, sorrel

Raisin Soda

Kiwi Seeds - Coconut - Lime

Tempura of Maine Shrimp

vanilla, cranberry, Meyer lemon

Confit of Melysol Melon

prosciutto, catmint, sherry vinegar

Virtual Shrimp Cocktail

Green and White Asparagus

chamomile, geoduck clams, apricot

Frozen WillaKenzie Verjus - Thyme

Ribeye of Prime Beef

spring lettuces, morel mushrooms, smoked tongue

Transparency of Aged Manchego

white anchovies, peppers, arugula

Carrot - Mandarin - Smoked Paprika Leather

Australian Finger Limes - Sugar

Red Wine Braised Rhubarb

strawberries, violets, goat milk

Warm Ocumare Chocolate

yeast, pistachio, flax seed

Tripod Hibiscus

And I have a quote in that article that yellow truffle posted! Granted, it's a lame quote, but what the heck. My husband and I are Chris and Amanda Hemmerich from Bloomington, IN.

I wish we would have gotten to try the other items mentioned in the article. I'm so jealous!

Edited August 5, 2004 by amccomb (log)

[ronnie_suburban]

Great article! Thanks, Anthony for posting the link. Nice to see Holly and Amanda get mentions.

I loved this part...

At the center of these flourishes stood Achatz, a quietly commanding presence in his immaculate white chef's apron, even as his sculpted cheek bones and blond hair curling behind his ears suggest a bit of matinee idol. He wasted few motions or words as he applied the finishing touches to various plates: a drizzle of lamb stock reduction and a whimsical cellophane "Bag of Texture" (sunflower seeds, fried capers, crisped lamb, dried garlic slices) onto a lamb entree; a dollop of coconut foam atop pieces of Maine lobster flavored with Thai iced tea; a spoonful of white wine sorbet onto a multifaceted green and white asparagus dish. A regular Saturday night.

But reality was sinking in. "When I think about it, it's like when you're sitting there watching your girlfriend getting on the airplane," the chef said. "You feel it here, in the pit of your stomach."

=R=

[mikeczyz]

i've recently left trio after having worked there for nearly 2 years. makes me sad to read these last night accounts. lots of good memories.

mike

[amccomb]

Trio's been using it as one of their house drinks for at least the last year and calling it "Vya con Porto"  Basically you take a bottle of white port (they use Dow) and add Vya sweet vermouth to taste and roasted Thai long-peppercorns.  Vya is a high-end vermouth made by California-based Quady winery (www.vya.com will tell you the whole story) and is pretty strong stuff (flavor wise I mean), so add a small amount first, and then add more if you like.  I guess the same would go for the peppercorns, but definitely heat them up a bit first to bring out the flavor.  The spiciness that hits the back of your throat when you drink this is what it's all about, so don't go too light on them.

There used to be a link on the Trio web page to the Thai long peppercorn supplier, which I believe was a shop in Indiana. I've tried searching the web for some place to order the peppercorns, but have been unsuccessful. Can anyone help?

[soupsister]

There used to be a link on the Trio web page to the Thai long peppercorn supplier, which I believe was a shop in Indiana.  I've tried searching the web for some place to order the peppercorns, but have been unsuccessful.  Can anyone help?

←

We had the link on Trio's web page. Click the link below.

Edited October 1, 2004 by soupsister (log)

[RyneSchraw]

There used to be a link on the Trio web page to the Thai long peppercorn supplier, which I believe was a shop in Indiana.  I've tried searching the web for some place to order the peppercorns, but have been unsuccessful.  Can anyone help?

←

The link you are thinking of was to Terra Spice Co. who are indeed in Indiana. I've never ordered from them because I'm a somewhat close to one of The Spice House shops, so I usually just stock up there when I am driving through Evanston. One note is that neither of these places list Thai long peppercorns in their stock on the websites, but that doesn't probably doesn't rule out the possibilty of them being able to source them for you. I'd email or call Terra and hopefully you'll get lucky.

Edit: I didn't notice until just after I'd posted that the previous post from Judy covered all this with her link below. Sorry for the repeat info then...

Edited October 4, 2004 by RyneSchraw (log)