Paris Restaurant Openings-Christmas/New Years

[Louisa Chu]

saintfan, you're so welcome - and I won't forget about the 7th recs. Got the Bateaux Parisien Reveillon/New Year's Eve dinner menu today - prices range from 290E to 390E - depending on your seating. Jules Verne - in the Tower - has a special dinner too - at both you need to pay ahead.

And please don't torture me with talk of toasted ravioli!

[Absonot]

There was an earlier post about where to eat over the holidays in Paris, but most of the replies focused on New Year's (which I found very helpful)

But I am desperate for a place to eat Xmas evening. Au Pied de Cochon was my choice, but after doing some more research, I'm thinking there has to be a better option for my first meal in Paris.

We arrive around noon on Xmas day and staying in the Latin Quarter, but will travel a reasonabble distance for food. We're also open to the large lunch idea that was suggested for New Year's (what a great idea, BTW!)

Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

This is a tough one. I know, as I wrestled with it last year when I flirted with a Christmas visit to Paris. As you have probaby figured out, most restaurants that come to mind are closed on Christmas Day, many for the entire week.

In the price range of your Au Pied de Cochon is the pretty Grand Colbert. It is not a restaurant that I would normally choose, but it is a lovely room, a classic brasserie fom the 19th Century that has been nicely restored. I did contact them last year and received a very cordial reply, saying that they would indeed be open and would welcome us to a fine Christmas dinner.

One review

Grand Colbert

2 rue Vivienne 2nd arrondisement

01.42.86.87.88

le.grand.colbert@wanadoo.fr

[Hypnotic]

Absonot,

I was the one inquiring recently about restos open on Christmas/NY's. Here are a couple of others I've found which will be open on Christmas day:

"L’ARBUCI 25 rue de Buci, 6th (33 1 44 32 16 00). M. Odéon The hip new décor at this old brasserie has the same effect as Queen Elizabeth suddenly dressed in a super-chic number by Azzedine Alaia. The cool new look somehow seems out of place with the food, despite an attempt to jazz up the menu with dishes like scallops on a brochette of lemongrass. A dessert of 'roasted' pineapple with rum-raisin ice cream appeared to have been poached. Although friendly, service was flustered, with the waiters racing back and forth across the dining room. Happily, however, the all-you-can-eat oysters-and-grills prix-fixe survives, and remains one of the best deals in town. Open noon-midnight daily. Average 35 euros, prix-fixe 19.50 euros."

(TimeoutParis)

Le Tour Montlehry 5, Rue des Prouvaires 75001 Paris Tel /01 42 36 21 82

According to http://www.cityvox.com/fra/paris/restaurant.html this is one of the "last real bistros in the neighborhood". Open 24hours like Pied de Cochon, with "modern, authentic" dishes, generous portions: veal kidneys, seared foie gras, tripes in calvados, etc.

Also, if you'd like to have afternoon tea, Laduree Champs Elysees and rue Bonaparte will be open on 25.12 and 1.1.

Please let me know if you discover any other spots.

[Louisa Chu]

Le Tour Montlehry is better known at Chez Denise - and it's one of the last survivors of the authentic Les Halles bistros. Reserve now if you're even thinking about eating there - anytime. They might be open 24/7 but they book up in fall/winter - especially around the holidays. Be aware that's it smoky, noisy, crowded - and the kind of place you can get a real whole tete de veau.

[saintfan57]

Just a back to the top to keep this thread alive! I've been away on vacation down in New Orleans where the food was (as always) tres bien! Anyone else been to Port of Call, Deanies, Mother's and Commander's Palace (of course!)? There were a few more places I would have liked to been able to get to, but there is only so much time...

Now that the New Orleans trip is behind me, I'm focusing on the preparing on the Paris trip in a little over a month!

[OAKGLEN]

Please don't forget Le Clos de Gourmet, 16,ave Rapp, just a few blocks down from your hotel. This is our current favorite int his part of the 7th. Great prix-fixe menus and cooking on a par with many one star restaurants. Some smattering of French would help here as this is primarily a locals spot.

[robert brown]

Don't tell me Goldenberg at 69 Av. Wagram will be closed Christmas Day!!! Same for New Year's Day when I bet the prices are the same as usual. Apparently you can do a lot worse, according to the Gault-Millau.

[senor hamachi]

Any more thoughts or recommendations for Christmas lunch in Paris? Thanks!

[Hypnotic]

Senor,

After calling around to a few places last week, I found these two restos which will be open on 12.25:

L'Avant Gout

26, rue Bobillot

Paris 13

01 53 80 24 00

They're offering a special Christmas menu on the 24th and for lunch on the 25th for around 60E. The man I spoke to wasn't sure if that menu would be offered for dinner on the 25th, but the good news is, their 27E menu will be!

Bistro de Breteuil

3, pl de Breteuil

Paris 7

01 45 67 07 27

Forgot to ask what kind of menu they'd be offering, however this place is popular for a prix-fixe which includes app, main, dessert and a half bottle of wine. (I'm fairly sure, but not positive, that's the formula. An apperitif may even be included also).

Hope this helps...

[senor hamachi]

Perfect, thanks! I now have lunch reservations at L'Avant Gout! :)

[TarteTatin]

We go every Christmas/New Year's to France.

Sometimes the country. Last year Gordes in Provence.

Sometimes Paris. Two years ago Rotisserie Beaujolais because La Tour D'argent was outrageously expensive as was a lot of places.

We had fun there and then went onto one of the Pont's with a bottle of fizz and shouted in the New Year's with people on their balconies and kissed and drank champagne from the bottle....

This year we'll be at a flat in the Marais, although it doesn't matter transportation wise, because it seems all the metros are open late on New Year's.

So: Bistro recommendations, etc. for good food, not too touristy?

Does anyone know if La Regalade or Chez Jenny or Juveniles, etc. etc. has anything? Or any other recommendations would be welcomed.

Merci et Bon Annee!

[chengb02]

So like many others, I'm coming here looking for help as I prepare for a trip to Paris, departing Christmas day. From what I've seen, some restaurants are closed around this time of year, but most are not, correct? Also, I have seen a number of people mention getting a good guidebook, so which one(s) do people recommend? The day after I booked my ticket I was greeted with headlines saying the dollar is at an all-time low against the euro, not good. For the most part, we'll be eating on the cheap, but one of the days will be my girlfriend's birthday and I'd be happy to accept recommendations for a finer dining experience where the bill would be less than $100 for two people (not including alcohol)...

[John Talbott]

So like many others, I'm coming here looking for help as I prepare for a trip to Paris, departing Christmas day. From what I've seen, some restaurants are closed around this time of year, but most are not, correct? Also, I have seen a number of people mention getting a good guidebook, so which one(s) do people recommend? The day after I booked my ticket I was greeted with headlines saying the dollar is at an all-time low against the euro, not good. For the most part, we'll be eating on the cheap, but one of the days will be my girlfriend's birthday and I'd be happy to accept recommendations for a finer dining experience where the bill would be less than $100 for two people (not including alcohol)...

←

Welcome! Christmas is the best and worst of times (misquoting Dickens). It can be magical - eg the Christmas eve service at Notre Dame, but empty - everyone's on "Winter Sports." Many restaurants are closed and you should check everyone by calling. There are new Lebey, Pudlo (Pudlowski) and Bottin Guides for 2005 out now but I hate to say it but their info on closed dates is not always accurate. The big brasseries (Marty, Terminus Nord) are always in business as are places like the Bistrot du Dome. As for bargains, that's my turf; Pudlo has two categories; meals less than 30 Euros and good price/quality ratio but Figaroscope and Zurban should have end of the year issues coming out mid-December that (1) sum up the year and (2) tell you what's up over the holidays and I'll try to post them in the Digest ASAP. And yes, the dollar is in the toilet; that's a fact and it's not going to change right soon. But you can eat just fine for 100 E for 2. I have a list of cheap eats which I'll be delighted to share if you'll send me a PM or if there's a public clamour I'll post it when I update it. Final recommendation; come with lots of layers of clothing; it can be mild or bittingly chilly; never snow on the ground and sometimes sunshine, but usually not. Again, welcome, bienvenue.

[Gifted Gourmet]

I spent a week in Paris not too long ago and used the Knopf Guide and a Frommer with much pleasure ... we did find many places closed right after Christmas that year but somehow found something decent to eat ...

[Druckenbrodt]

I'd also be tempted to check out the new one in the 11th that zoeadler posted about recently which sounds like it would be in your budget. Not sure how to do links to posts but it's called something like 'wonderful new restaurant discovery'. She certainly got me very interested in it. I think it might also be near the Canal St Martin which is probably rather romantic to wander around when Paris is empty.

[TarteTatin]

We go to France (including Paris) every Christmas for many years now. We also leave Christmas day or the day after.

Yes, it is VERY cold! I've learned not to worry about fashion and just wear a heavy coat!

We often buy the Paris Visite card and just ride around on buses and see neighborhood's. Not as cold that way!

Christmas Day and New Year's Day, most restaurants are closed except for the big bistros that were mentioned....lots of people just go to the department stores outside, since they are closed, and look at the wonderful holiday windows!

We will be in Saumur this time, but coming back to Paris in time for New Year's....

Try Chez Jenny or Marty, although we weren't really thrilled there (Marty) last New Year's day.

[Bux]

When budgeting prices for meals in France, it's good to know that tax and service are included in the price, although an extra 5% is never unwelcome. Beverages are rarely included in the price of a set meal. Beverages include aperitifs, wine, water, coffee. If one is on a budget, aperitifs are the first thing to cut out to save money. Coffee is optional and another savings. Years ago, it seemed sacriligious not to order bottled water, but I see more and more locals drinking tap water from a carafe in France. Wine is another issue. For us, it's not expendable. Unfortunately, $100 these days is pushing close to 75€.

[John Talbott]

I'd also be tempted to check out the new one in the 11th that zoeadler posted about recently which sounds like it would be in your budget.

←

It's Temps au Temps and 3 of us ate there 4 weeks ago for 114 Euros (but we'd had 40 Euros worth of oysters at L'Ecalier across the street for a starter). And it's very good.

[John Talbott]

For the most part, we'll be eating on the cheap, but one of the days will be my girlfriend's birthday and I'd be happy to accept recommendations for a finer dining experience where the bill would be less than $100 for two people (not including alcohol)...

←

Cheap Eats

All the restos listed below have meals or menus under 30 Euros and I can attest to the quality of each, with the exception of the one marked *, where I’ve not yet eaten but which was highly rated by Sébastien Demorand of Zurban and ** which Joël Robuchon called the quintessential bistrot (details of all these and much longer lists of under 30 Euro places can be found in Lebey 2005 and/or Pudlo Paris 2005):

L’Ardoise

Le Café Press or Press Café*

Petit Theatre

Dôme du Marais

L’Equitable

Les Papilles

Pré Verre

Reminet

Chez René

Maison du Jardin

Ze Kitchen Galerie

Bon Acceuil

Café Constant

Le P’tit Troquet**

Chez Casimir

Au C’Amelot

L’Ecallier du Bistrot

Repaire de Cartouche

La Cerisaie

O a la Bouche

Regalade

Dix Vins

Grand Rue

Le Troquet

L’Abadache

Books about Cheap Eats

Guide Petit Futé : 1001 meilleurs restaurants à moins de 20 € Guide Petit Futé -- Broché

Les meilleures tables de Paris à moins de 30 € L. Fourneau – Broché

Sandra Gustafson's Cheap Eats in Paris: A Traveler's Guide to the Best-Kept Secrets Sandra Gustafson – Broché

[John Talbott]

For the most part, we'll be eating on the cheap, but one of the days will be my girlfriend's birthday and I'd be happy to accept recommendations for a finer dining experience where the bill would be less than $100 for two people (not including alcohol)...

←

Cheap Eats

All the restos listed below have meals or menus under 30 Euros and I can attest to the quality of each, with the exception of the one marked *, where I’ve not yet eaten but which was highly rated by Sébastien Demorand of Zurban and ** which Joël Robuchon called the quintessential bistrot (details of all these and much longer lists of under 30 Euro places can be found in Lebey 2005 and/or Pudlo Paris

[chengb02]

thank you for all the suggestions so far (and I'd be more than happy to receive any more that all of you may have)! The rate of exchange right now is utterly depressing, but the fact that I'll be in Paris again is exciting and I'm sure that despite the horrible exchange rate, we will still have a great time. Will reservations be required (or recommended) at most of the places listed? We don't have any real schedule and just want to enjoy the city and hopefully, whenever we get hungry, find which of these (and some other restaurants I've come up with) are close to our location and go. Two more questions, first, we plan on sampling, especially for breakfeast, the neighborhood places around our hotel, but if there are any suggestions for the general area, it would be great. We're staying in the 8th, sort of in between the Rome and Europe metro stops. My second question was on my first trip to Paris a few years ago, on the first night we were pretty tired and just wanted to take a walk down the Champs Elysees, eat something, and then sleep. We ended up having dinner, and what turned out to be a relatively decent meal at a good price (considering the area), at Leon de Bruxelles. I doubt many from this list have eaten there (maybe other tourist types), but just curious...

[lalala]

I'm hedging my bets and taking out an extra 1000 Euros before I leave France in December. I have a February Brussels trip and 10 days in Rome in March and I can only see the dollar falling further.

In my opinion, you can eat marvellously in Paris for under 65 euros per person a day without succumbing to a rick steves "ricknic" in your room.

lalala

[John Talbott]

We don't have any real schedule and just want to enjoy the city and hopefully, whenever we get hungry, find which of these (and some other restaurants I've come up with) are close to our location and go.

←

You'd better reserve for Regalade and La Cerisaie days before and the Maison du Jardin, Ze Kitchen Galerie, Reminet and Bon Acceuil at least in the AM.

For Café Constant you have to be there practically at 12 noon sharp.

For the rest, you'll probably be able to drop in (but I always reserve; two lunches this week, they've turned people away)

Two more questions, first, we plan on sampling, especially for breakfeast, the neighborhood places around our hotel, but if there are any suggestions for the general area, it would be great. We're staying in the 8th, sort of in between the Rome and Europe metro stops. My second question was on my first trip to Paris a few years ago, on the first night we were pretty tired and just wanted to take a walk down the Champs Elysees, eat something, and then sleep. We ended up having dinner, and what turned out to be a relatively decent meal at a good price (considering the area), at Leon de Bruxelles. I doubt many from this list have eaten there (maybe other tourist types), but just curious...

1. Take a look at my recent post on 2005 Food Guides, I only listed new ones in the 8th

Apicius P ∕∕ ∕∕ ∕∕ ∕∕ ◘◘ (Lebey listed it in 2004 Guide so it’s not new to him)

Atelier Renault P ∕∕

Comptoir de Thiou L P ∕∕ ∕∕ but a broken ◘

Copenhague L

Drugstore Publicis Champs-Élysées L

Évasion, 7, place Saint-Augustin, 01.45.22.66.20 L

Fromages &Affinités, 58, rue des Mathurins, 01.40.06.96.18 P ∕∕

Ginger, 11, rue de la Trémoille, 01.47.23.37.32 L

Kaïten

Libre Sens, 33, rue Marbeuf, 01.53.96.00.72 P ∕∕ ∕∕

La Maison Scandinave P ∕∕ ∕∕

Marcel, Drugstore Publicis, 133 ave des Champs-Élysées, 01.44.43.66.63 L Д

La Poêle D’Or, 37, rue de Miromesnil, 01.42.65.78.60 P ∕∕ ∕∕ ◘

Pomze P ∕∕

Le P’tit Bouco, 17, rue de Constantinople, 01.44.70.00.72 P ∕∕ ¢

Royal Madeleine, 11, rue du Chavalier-St-George, 01.42.60.14.36 L P ∕∕

Le Safran L

Table du Lancaster L P ∕∕ ∕∕ ◘

Terre de Truffes P ∕∕

Zen Garden P ∕∕ ∕∕

but the guides give many more

2. As for Leon, yes I've been, but you can do so much better, unless moules and frites is an itch that must be scratched.

[John Talbott]

We go every Christmas/New Year's to France.

So: Bistro recommendations, etc. for good food, not too touristy?

←

I feel most unable to help; we never go out New Year's Eve here. But since no one has plunged in, I'll give a try. If you're here a few days before, you can either telephone or cruise by places (eg bistrots) that interest you and see what the Saint Sylvestre menu looks like. But I doubt you'll not be staggered by the prices. I guess if I were forced to go out, I'd go to one of the good food but crumby looking places in my quartier (the 18th) or other more adventuresome ones (eg 9, 10, 11, 12, 19, 20) assiduously avoiding the 4th-8th and 16-17th arrondissements (I hope I haven't offended inhabitants of those fine quartiers).

What's wrong with picking up some salmon, foie gras, caviar, champagne or whatever you like New Year's Eve at Bon Marche/Grand Epicerie or Gal Lafayette/Petrossian/etc. and eating where you're staying?