Donostia Restaurants: Reviews & Recommendations

[pepe]

Friends,

We are in the preliminary stages of plannin a trip (5 days) to immerse ourselves in the Basque culture and food. This thread has been enlightening to say the least!

May I ask the most recommended way of going from Barcelona to San Sebastian? Flights are pretty pricy ($400 USD), but it seems to be the only truly convenient option. However, do people recommend taking the train or driving? It seems driving would be 6 hrs or more, and a train would be overnight.

Also, for 5 nights, would you recommend a car?

Many thanks

Boris

Hello,

You can go either by car o train, by car is all toll highway (until Navarra), by Lleida, Zaragoza, Tudela, Navarra and Donosti, and are about 6 hours, by train there is a night train between Barcelona 10,30 P.M. and Irun which arrives to Donosti about 8 A.M., you can go sleeping.

I've done both trips, if there are 2 drivers try the car its a beatiful landscape from sea to sea. Otherwise by train it could be a happening. Go to Cacao Sampaka (Consell de Cent 249 and buy some chocolates or bombons, or go to Murria (Valencia - Roger de Lluria) if you prefer salt dishes (foie, jabugo, saumon or cheese) and wine and make a late supper in the train, you will arrive to Donosti in time for a breakfast in Viejo (the old town).

Have a nice trip

[Bux]

It's a comfortable 330-mile motorway drive which can be done very easily in five hours or less. And a car is simply necessary to get around in the Basque Country.

I am one of those who hates driving long distances. At least I do now. There was a time when I would take a drive of 100 miles or more, just to relax. For us, the drive from Barcelona to Donostia was a very rewarding five days, although few of the meals we had were quite up to to those we've had in the Pais Vasco. There were however, some excellent meals and sightseeing to match.

I've also had a car at my disposal whenever I've been in Donostia and certainly found it convenient to drive from the city to surrounding restaurants, though it put a dent in the amount of wine I might have had if I were not driving. Akelare and Arzak are certain close enough to make a taxi a reasonable choice. It's my understanding that other eGullet members have taken taxis to more distant restaurants. Perhaps we'll get some information on the availability of taxis and the fare to Mugaritz and Berasategui. I noticed there was a bus that went to Lasarte as well. I don't know how late it runs or how close to Berasategui it might bring you.

[oscubic]

A taxi costs around 16 euros to Mugaritz from the Parte Vieja of San Sebastian, depending on traffic, or about 9 from the center of Errenteria. It's pretty far up the rural hillsides, with more lambs than people in the surrounding area. I have a few pics and will post a detailed report in a week or so about my experience eating there, doing a 3 day stage, their housing for stages, Lo Mejor de la Gastronomia, 80 cent glasses of wine, talking to Andoni about hot women in SF that eat weird things, and all sorts of other tidbits

[dfunghi]

I'll follow this up with a compendium of recommendations from others with my comments.

I saw this post from Bux from a year ago and wndered if said list was ever posted??

David

[dfunghi]

Disregard prior post please. I found the list as well as a sept 2004 update. April 2005 is so far away how will I ever wait??

THanks all for your deligence in finding and sourcing all the info. Was last in S.S. sept 2000 and loved it.

David

[vmilor]

Does anybody know where can I get a properly aged and expertly cooked becada in or near Donostia in end november when I go there for 4 days.

I would also appreciate to know if anybody has been to either Etxebarri or Fagollaga.

Thanks.

[pedro]

Sorry for the late answer, vmilor.

I've talked to Iñaki Camba, the chef of Arce (see Becada in Arce) and asked him about the question at hand. He warned me that it could be a bit early for becada (named sorda in the Basque Country) but that probably Zuberoa and Arzak, among the top ones, and Rekondo in another level, could have becada and know how to handle it.

Good luck.

[vmilor]

Thanks for the information. I had to wait to call Zuberoa, my favorite, since they were closed for holiday.

Zuberoa will do its best. The strange thing is that they were full for monday night, november 22nd. So I have a lunch reservation. The reason is that they have a "gastronomical congress" on monday and tuesday. I hope you are making to the congress Pedro. Then we will ask four sorda instead of two!

[iharrison]

Very, very late on this but I agree about Arzak - I was there in early October (look for pictures here soon and descriptions) and I believe it was on the menu. Call ahead though!

[pedro]

It looks like the first wave of becadas is arriving to Madrid's restaurants: El Cenador de Salvador and Viridiana, are offering becadas this week.

I'll try to find out where they come from. According to Iñaki Camba, it's pretty soon to have becada which have been hunted in Spain. On the other hand, Santiago, the owner of Can Bech in Fontanillas, told me last summer that they use to have becada as soon as the end of October / early November.

vmilor, did you finally have the chance to enjoy them while you were in Donosti?

[Sweet Willie]

I would also appreciate to know if anybody has been to either Etxebarri  or Fagollaga.

Thanks.

From Saveur Magazine Jan/Feb 2005

Victor Arguinzoniz has been called the Ferran Adria of the grill. At his restaurant ETXEBARRI, in the pretty Basque mountain town of Axpe Atxondo, not far from Bilbao, he makes his own charcoal every morning, the uses it to grill or wood-oven-roast, on (or in) devices of his own design, just about any Spanish foodstuff you can imagine - anchovies, hake cheeks, giant shrimp, salt cod, pork chops, the minature eels called angulas (done in seconds in a rounded pan with pinprick holes in the bottom), even cream of red bean soup (slow-cooked in the smoky oven, them embellished with sweet red peppers stuffed w/blood sausage0, and dessert (for instance, an infusion of grill-roasted cocoa with ice cream made from milk reduced on the grill). This is some of the most original, compelling, honest food in Spain.