DIGEST: Los Angeles Times Food Section

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- November 12, 2003

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

You can top this by Emily Green ponders why so many of us love pizza but so few of us make it. It's not that daunting to make great pizza. Read The Z list to find pizzerias Times writers and critics prefer . . . or make your own with recipes for Pizza dough, Tomato sauce for pizza, and Pizza Margherita.

BYOB: It can spell trouble, by David Shaw, tells how your favorite restaurant can get into trouble with the law if they allow you to BYOB before they have a liquor license. David tells how it happens and what he's planning to do to support one of this favorite places.

Bring out the hidden beauty is Russ Parson's ode to that misunderstood vegetable cauliflower. Russ will educate you as to its hidden beauty and how to bring that beauty out from the shadows. Recipes for Cauliflower custard (a savory dish), Garlicky braised cauliflower with capers, and Quick cauliflower pickles.

For Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn comes through with the recipe for Negimaki, a Japanese dish of thin steak rolled around green onions.

The Wine of the Week is 2000 Bishop's Peak Central Coast Syrah.

Hi, I'll be your menu tonight is Leslee Komaiko's Restaurant Journal about how menus are getting chatty.

S. Irene Virbila reviews Rocca in Santa Monica (not Rocco's in New York). She gives the Tuscan style restaurant 2 1/2 stars and recommends Chicken liver crostini, cockles and cannellini beans with pesto, Maine mussels in saffron brodetto, trippa alla fiorentina, ricotta gnocchi with oxtail ragù, fettuccine with chanterelles, pork cheek ravioli, half chicken al mattone, grilled wild boar sausages, venison-stuffed cabbage, and Meyer lemon panna cotta.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- November 19, 2003

Special Thanksgiving Issue

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

"It happens every year: After all the shopping, cooking and obsessing, Thanksgiving dinner is over in a flash. The year, we decided to first focus on the time at the table. And it all fell into place: a sumptuous menu, a leisurely pace, a true celebration."

The party starts here -- the kitchen that is. According to Russ Parsons, "At some point while you're fixing dinner, you will look around and realize that every single soul you've invited is standing in your kitchen." Russ says a good cook is always prepared with things to feed your guests, or things for helping hands to do, or both. Scroll down for the recipes for Salt-and-pepper breadsticks, Cumin-cured olives, and Mojo marinated shrimp.

In Test Kitchen Notebook, Leslie Brenner tells which turkey tastes best. The only problem is that it's too late to order your heritage turkey for this year. Save this article and order early next year.

In Tool Department, find out about the latest gadgets for preparing your Thanksgiving feast or other meal including the Orka silicone oven mitt, Grind salt or pepper mill, pinch bowls, and the corkscrew-style poultry lacer.

Stumped by the challenge of pairing wine when you're serving cranberries? Read Wine lovers, beware: Those cranberries have a killer instinct.

Barbara Hansen's Dish to go will help you find a tasty pumpkin non-pie dessert. Order soon if you want to pick some of these up in time for the big day.

Instead of rush, rush, rush, how do you turn Thanksgiving into a 33-rpm experience when we live in a DSL world? Regina Schrambling has some great ideas in To the table, and be slow about it. Recipes for Soy-brined turkey, Pistachio Brussels sprouts, Pumpkin-Gruyere gratin, Sausage-cornbread stuffing, and Sweet potato pie with pecan streusel.

Not one but three Wines of the week to pair with your Thanbskgiving menu.

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn answers several questions about preparing the holiday meal and provides a recipe for Wild mushroom stuffing.

First we don't say "yuck" is a an adorable column about etiquette classes to help kids get through a civilized meal with grown-ups. You might want to encourage your youngsters to read the accompanying "survival guide," or you might want to read it yourself.

Leslee Komaiko will tell you where you can get A little help from your chef, or the pros who will prepare part or all of your Thanksgiving menu to go.

When the cooking and eating are done, it's time to enjoy An orchard in a bottle. Emily Green recommend Calvados.

Click here for the link to the main LA Times Food Page where you will find more links for Thanksgiving including how-to information, recipes, and preparation videos.

S. Irene Virbila reviews Pastis in A smooth second act. She says, "the popular little bistro has a bright new interior and a more playful approach to classic French fare." She gives the restaurant one and a half stars and recommends Charcuterie, braised baby leeks, purple artichoke salad, braised rabbit stuffed with chorizo, duck confit parmentier, daube de boeuf, rib-eye steak, black fig carpaccio, crème brûlée, quince tarte tatin.

In Counter Intelligence: Syria, Charles Perry recommends Sham Restaurant in Santa Monica.

Edited November 21, 2003 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- November 26, 2003

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Kimberly Boyce and Leslie Brenner help out with The last detail. Pie that is, which is required for the end of the Thanksgiving meal. Never fear, the intrepid Times food staff have given a sure-fire recipe for Pie crust dough with step-by-step directions and photographs plus three memorable fillings -- 'Pumpkin' custard meringue pie, Pear and prune oat streusel pie, and Apple quince pie.

Leslie Brenner makes No apologies about the 2003 Beaujolais Nouveaux, just released last week. She likes it, so there.

Does your family have some odd piece of tableware handed down from a prior generation and everybody in the family wants to know What the heck is that? Charles Perry will help you sort out your olive fork from your pickle fork and your sugar sifter from your preserve spoon.

Valli Herman says that southland farmers markets are Here just in time with fall colors to rival any hike in the mountains.

Regina Schrambling is Talking turkey with a Louisiana accent. Check out her recipe for Turkey gumbo with artichokes and andouille.

Dishes to go recommends an easy Thanksgiving dessert -- pumpkin ice cream. They tell you where you can get some of the best.

On the 50th anniversary of Napa's Stony Hill winery, David Shaw tells all about the winery, the people and The Chardonnay that blazed the trail.

The Wine of the Week is 2001 Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

In Counter Intelligence: Mexico, Barbara Hansen reviews El Huarache Azteca I in Highland Park where the "meat-topped masas . . . have plenty of homespun soul."

For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila provides A dip into L.A.'s past with a look at the classic Philippe's. She gives the place one star and recommends homemade doughnuts, French dip sandwiches, potato salad, macaroni salad, tapioca pudding, coconut cream pie, and baked apples.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- December 3, 2003

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Paul Bertolli knows there's just one way to get authentic Italian sausage: make it yourself. S. Irene Virbila profiles Oliveto's executive chef, "a cook's cook," in An ancient art. If you want to make your own, you will need some gear. Read Grinder, do your stuff. And, of course, recipes for Lucanica (fresh Italian sausage), Baked Italian sausage ragu with polenta, and Sausage, chicken and bread skewers.

For her weekly review, S. Irene Virbila tells about Table 8 in black leather and blond moire. Located on Melrose below a tattoo parlor, she gives the place 3 big stars and recommends the Green bean salad, grilled sweetbreads with "torn" pasta, Atlantic sardines with celery leaf pesto, roasted asparagus with bottarga aioli, wood-roasted baby chicken with short-rib hash, king salmon with charred escarole, New Zealand lamb, kurobuta pork chop with chestnuts, salt-roasted Porterhouse for two, vanilla bean panna cotta, chocolate soufflé.

Russ Parsons says that From Spain, the cutting edge (is) in a can. In other words, not all canned products are "second-rate versions of fresh." Find out what Spain cans best in Preserving good taste.

In Bread pudding on a pedestal, Barbara Hansen says the creamy comfort food has gone upscale. Find recipes for Hazelnut polenta bread pudding, Chocolate croissant pudding, and Budin diplomatico.

In Culinary SOS: Add a bit of bubbly, Cindy Dorn comes through with the recipe for Warm chicken salad from LACMA's Pentimento restaurant.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Barbolini Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro.

In Restaurant Journal, read about the latest black plate special, the arrival of the English translation of the cookbook from El Bulli, and news from restaurants Xiomara on Melrose, Kung Pao Killy in Hollywood, and Oceanfront in Santa Monica.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- December 10, 2003

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Find out about Wine's secret club from Corie Brown. Wine storage has become a scene and it's for more than cellaring. These are the places to hang out if you want to be in on the latest in wine news. Read to the end for the "locker room buzz."

Donna Deane, and the rest of the Times Kitchen staff it seems, are enamored with cardamom as a replacement for cinnamon. In Put this in your shaker, baker they urge us to use cardamom anywhere a recipe calls for cinnamon. And, speaking of recipes, find out how to make Cardamom spritz cookies, Cardamom sweet rolls, and California farmer's market panforte.

If you're looking for just the right gift for that special foodie someone, Leslie Brenner says it's a banner year for new cookbooks. Read about some of the best in A season of glorious, gorgeous substance.

And then came Roy is David Shaw's profile of Hawaiian chef extraordinaire Roy Yamaguchi. Enjoy Roy's recipe for Coconut panna cotta.

Culinary SOS provides the recipe for tomato basil soup from Nordstrom's cafe.

If you're making spritz cookies (see the cardamom story above), you're going to need a good cookie press. Never fear, Valli Cohen has evaluated them for you in When pressed, they respond.

"There's a sense of mounting excitement as the late-release Cabernet Sauvignons from Rutherford begin to appear." Rod Smith tells about it in Rutherford's instant classics.

The Wine of the Week is Beaumont des Crayères Champagne Brut Grande Réserve

For her review this week, S. Irene Virbila says Citrine is A stylish spot on Melrose, for every style on the planet. She gives the place 1 star and recommends the Pan-seared jumbo scallops, Maine lobster ceviche, artisanal cheese ravioli, smoked pork loin chop, pan-roasted chicken in white chocolate and pistachio mole, crème brûlée sampler.

For something a little more down-scale, read Counter Intelligence. This week, Linda Burum's article, Six tables, three cultures and one inspired menu, discusses Lempira Restaurante Hondureno. Recommended dishes are Sopa de caracol, baleadas, plátano maduro entero con carne molida, tajadas con pollo frito.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- December 17, 2003

Special Issue: Holiday Cooking

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

"Since 1927, Bracebridge has been the state's most storied holiday celebration, a dinner Californians grow up hearing abut but few ever get to attend." Corie Brown lets you in on the goings on at Yosemite's Ahwahnee Hotel in A golden tradition. Recipes for Pistachio-crusted beef tenderloin, Butternut squash 'mulligatawny', Bearnaise demi-glace, and Plum pudding with Ahwahnee apricot sauce.

In Dweezil make a brisket, Valli Herman reports on celebrity couple Dweezil Zappa and Lisa Loeb and their Hanukkah preparations. Find recipes for Latkes and Apple chutney.

Russ Parsons demystifies souffles in Why not wow them? Get behind the mystery and find out how you can even make them ahead of time. Recipes for Sweet potao-prosciutto souffle, Souffle of bitter greens, and Souffle of goat cheese and walnuts.

Chestnuts? Of course, by Susan La Tempa, demystifies this ingredient that is prevalent around the holidays. Recipes for Legumes cuisines en cocotte and Goat cheese, candied chestnut & Belgina endive salad (sorry, there doesn't seem to be a link to this one).

Find out what to get for your friends in A gift for every kind of foodie.

Culinary SOS provides the recipe for Ginger cake from Berkeley's Ginger Island Restaurant.

In One barrel, one bourbon, Regina Schrambling says, "Single-barrel brands are elevating the status of the original American whiskey. Still great for post-feast sipping, they are now being used in cocktails and make great gifts for the holidays." Read to the end for an evaluation of those deemed to be "smooth sippers" and where they can be found.

In Matters of Taste, David Shaw brings us The lighter side of wine. Basically, he doesn't have much use for wine guides and thinks that the best way to learn about wine is to drink it. Nevertheless, he has two "irreverant reads" to recommend.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Coto de Hayas Garnacha Centenaria.

Pasta, pizza and always a party is this weeks restaurant review by S. Irene Virbila. She gives Amalfi Ristorante on La Brea a star and a half and says the best dishes are Pizzas, focaccia di bufoline, fritto misto, seafood salad, fennel and Parmesan salad, tagliolini with shrimp, ravioli di vitello, breaded veal chop, marinated Cornish game hen, and la dolce zuppa Amalfitana.

In Restaurant Journal, Leslee Komaiko reports on the newest obsession of refolding your napkin whenever you step away from the table. Russ Parsons recommends the new pamphlet on LA's Chinatown developed for the recent opening of the Gold Line -- including a walking tour, restaurant list, and collection of "neighborhood favorites."

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- December 24, 2003

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Sweet Silver Shells by Russ Parsons could easily be called "Ode to the Oyster." Russ takes the mystery and fear out of these deliciously simple treats. Included are great "how-to" photos and information on where to find them.

Christmas morning calls for more than a store-bought muffin or cold cereal. Regina Schrambling encourages us to Start with a bit of excess. Find a recipe at the end of the article for Sausage biscuits.

Leslee Komaiko says Blend first, then invite the minglers. This article describes tapenades, spices purees, vegetable butters and other spreads that can be made ahead or at the last minute for when guests show up. Find recipes for Almond tapenade, Tarama (salmon spread), Christmas lima bean spread, and Five-spice carrot-cashew spread.

Cindy Dorn provides the Culinary SOS with the recipe for the Holiday pie -- made with cranberries, walnuts, apples and cream cheese -- from the Cedar Creek Inn in Laguna Beach.

Chablis -- "It's been in, and out. Now, a new generation of windmakers is making the French white to thrill even aficionados. It's definitely in." And it goes great with oysters (see above) and lots of other stuff. Read Rod Smith's A dozen Belons, a crisp Chablis.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Volpe Pasini Sauvignon Zuc di Volpe.

Wine is often a tough sell for restaurants. In his Matters of Taste column, David Shaw tells about some of the things restaurants to entice customers to buy wine. Read about why you may want to head to Alto Palato on a Wednesday . . . or other opportunities.

In A swig of Mexico, S. Irene Virbila

reviews Malo on Sunset Boulevard. She says the Margarita's are excellent but wishes the rest of the menu were as good. She gives it a half of a star.

If you like it hot, then this is the place. That would be Oriental Pearl Restaurant in Alhambra. Read about it in Barbara Hansen's Counter Intelligence column.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- December 31, 2003

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Champagne goes well with and enhances so many foods says Regina Schrambling in Midnight partners. The challenge can be when you are trying to balance your champagne in one hand while being served something that is more than bite-sized. To avoid putting your guests in this awkward situation, read through the article for recipes for Parmesan-proscuitto crostini, Chorizo-corn madeleines, Chutney-duck bites, Spices roasted almonds, and Smoked salmon tramezzini.

To help out, this week's Wines of the week are champagnes -- 1996 Champagne Veuve Clicquot Rosé Reserve, 1990 Champagne Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires Blanc de Blanc Brut, and Champagne Bollinger Special Cuvée.

Valli Herman says There's fire in that little cup. She's talking about cocktails served hot which are . . . well . . . hot with recipes for Hot sake cider, Naughty Little Elf hot chocolate, Glogg, and Hot buttered rum.

Charles Perry and Barbara Hansen report that Despite scare, L.A. still has an appetite for beef. Find out who is eating beef, where, and what you need to know to be safe.

Unforgettable are the 10 favorite recipes of 2003 from the Times Test Kitchen. The recipes are Pear cobbler with hazelnut biscuits, Cardamom sweet rolls, Duck legs roasted with mustard, Star anise and grapefruit granita, Chile poblano polenta, Water grill cheesecake, Mushroom braised short ribs, Carne asada sandwiches with avocados and chipotle mayonnaise, Touchdown cookies, and Honey-brandy ice cream with fig jam.

The San Fernando Valley is not necessarily a culinary mecca, fer shure. Nevertheless, Charles Perry claims that the Valley excels at hot dogs which can take on the best that New York or Chicago can dish out. Read In a dog-eat-dog world, the Valley has the best to find out about 3 places on Ventura Boulevard all within a few miles of each other. Like, totally.

S. Irene Virbila reviews Luna Park, A funky San Francisco import. She gives them one star and says it is "friendly and full of energy . . . and it's even affordable." Recommended dishes are Pork satay, moules frites, baby spinach salad, soups, pork cutlet, grilled flatiron steak, and grilled yellowtail.

Leslee Komaiko reports in Restaurant Journal that there are more and more places in L. A. where you can get a late-night dinner. In the "Small Bites" section of the column find out the news from Beverly Hills' Cafe Blanc, Rouge, Jimmy's Tavern, Luce, and Lot 1224.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- January 7, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

"Chefs will have you bleive that braising is a technique that requires years of practice, but the truth is, anyone who can brown a piece of meat and add some liquid can make a great braise." Leslie Brenner and Donna Deane explain it all in Braise of Glory. Find recipes for Osso buco, Cider-braised pork with fennel, Lamb shanks with Merlot, and Lemon risotto.

Before there was Hard Rock . . ., by Charles Perry is a delightful bit of LA restaurant history. The theme restaurant wasn't invented here but, in the 1920's was the cutting edge when you could dine in a prison-themed restaurant, among others.

Barbara Hansen causes a Collision of savory and sweet with this article of "cross-over chutneys" blending Indian spices with Western ingredients. The results are "as good with steak sandwiches as with pappadums and pakoras." Recipes for Green Chutney, Cranberry and green apple chutney, Basil-mint chutney, and Plum chutney.

Cindy Dorn's Culinary SOS provides the recipe for Grilled chicken with Brussels sprouts and butternut squash from Luna Park.

Too big? Too rich? Never! That's what Emily Green says about California's monster reds. Wine snobs love to pooh-pooh them but they're missing all the fun.

And speaking of reds, the Wine of the Week is a 1998 Leroy Bourgogne rouge.

Doug Arango's is Bringing old-school charm to Melrose. S. Irene Virbila give the desert transplant 2 stars and recommends the pizzas, soups, grilled prawns, Santa Barbara mussels, Michaelmas salad, orecchiette with peas and prosciutto, butternut squash ravioli, rack of lamb, calves liver, shepherd's pie, and crème brûlee.

For something from the other side of the world, Charles Perry's Counter Intelligence column discusses Katmandu Kitchen for Spicy specialties from the streets of Katmandu. It's located in Palms.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- January 14, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

In this town of "transitional" waiters -- those struggling actors waiting to be discovered -- there are still some who devote themselves permanently and full time to the profession. Valli Herman profiles some of the best the the qualities that make them great In service of excellence.

Russ Parsons puts you In the comfort zone with gratins. What could be more perfect for this time of year? Learn the how-to's and history. Recipes at the end of the article for Sweet potato gratin, Belgian endive gratin, and Gratin of potatoes, leeks and mushrooms.

Regina Schrambling will tell you about One woman's search for the perfect teapot. Maybe this is more than you ever wanted to know about making tea but you'll think about it the next time you reach for a tea bag.

Culinary SOS provides the recipe for Roasted onions with almond pesto from Suzanne Tracht at Jar.

What would you have for your last meal? That's what David Shaw wanted to know and, if you're "morbidly curious," you can too. Read about the web sites and an upcoming book on the subject. Talk about it here.

Rod Smith thinks the wine makers of the Russian River Valley are magicians. Find out why in Out of the mist, Pinots.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux.

S. Irene Virbila says The shine's back on Le Dome in her review of this newly reopened LA classic on the Sunset Strip. She gives it one and a half stars and recommends the mussels Belgian style, Colorado lamb chop, Le Dôme salad, bluefin carpaccio, diver scallops, lobster, tandoori Cornish hen, and double veal chop.

Looking for Vietnamese? In From Hue, with a modern flourish, Linda Burum profiles Quan Hy in Westminster. She recommends the Goi mit, banh beo, banh it ram, and shredded chicken with fried sweet rice.

Edited January 16, 2004 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- January 21, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Need a really unusual ingredient to make a truly authentic dish? Regina Schrambling says A gastronomic world (is) within reach on the internet. Exotic ingredients are a click away points you toward some good sources. For inspiration, recipes for Rajasthani kadhi (chickpea dumplings in spicy sauce), Sgroppino al limon, and Keshi yena (stuffed cheese).

Dig this: bargain truffles is by Russ Parsons. Well, there are truffles and there are truffles. These cheaper versions are different from their more expensive cousins but, you can still have fun with them. Find a recipe for Fettuccine with white truffle sauce. To get a good truffle (and chocolate) shaver, be sure to read Cookstuff.

The high price of cheap food is Emily Green's opinion piece about the current hot issue of factory farming and it's implications. Read to the end of the article for information on how to decode food labels. Several eG discussions are already underway about this. Here's one you can join.

Grapefruits are for more than just breakfast. It's grapefruit season and Donna Deane says to Go ahead -- cook with it. Recipes at the end of the article for Red grapefruit, jicama and pea sprout salad, Grapefruit curd tartlets, & Halibut with grapefruit and blood orange sauce.

Culinary SOS and Cindy Dorn provide the recipe for Corn-cherry scones from The Cheese Board in Berkeley.

David Shaw would like to know if you want Some sake with your penne? He profiles Trevor Hammond and other importers who are encouraging sake with non-Asian dishes.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Caludius Chardonnay Carneros Reserve.

Cuban sequel debuts in Hollywood is S. Irene Virbila's review of Xiomara on Melrose Avenue. "If Versailles is Cuban 101, then Xiomara . . . is the graduate course." She gives it 2 stars and recommends the Black bean soup, codfish fritters, corn tamale, duck ropa vieja, arroz frito, pork hash, nuevo Cubano chicken, tres flancitos.

In Restaurant Journal, Leslee Komaiko discussed the restaurants that are now providing A little eye candy with your meal. Updates also on Panzanella in Sherman Oaks and The Pig now at Universal City Walk.

Edited January 23, 2004 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- January 28, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Our California Cook, Russ Parsons, tells all about greens in The color of winter. They are the mainstay of farmer's markets this time of year. Good on their own but great when you cook them together. Recipes for Tart of garlicky greens and black olives, Greens with spicy lemon-cumin oil, and Southern comfort soup.

They have a new chef and sommelier at Valentino's and it's still terrific. That's what S. Irene Virbila says in her review New guard at an old flame. The still classic restaurant gets 3 stars and she recommends the tortellini in brodo, grilled seppie (cuttlefish) with lentils, spaghetti alle vongole veraci, paccheri with rabbit ragù and other pastas, veal chop with mushrooms and Marsala, lamb cooked in a bread crust, cannoli, sweet almond-hazelnut focaccia -- and dishes from the "menu extravaganza."

Barbara Hansen thinks that a "big, soupy bowl" of pozole is a perfect party dish and for your Super Bowl gathering. Find out all about it in Flash of radish, splash of lime. To make your own, two recipes are provided -- Pozole verde, and Pozole Estilo Jalisco. If you prefer to take out, the armchair alternative at the end of the article has some recommendations.

Valli Herman is Basking in the glow of winter. In case you've forgotten why we all live in this paradise, this article will remind you as she points out that, "In every nook of the Santa Monica farmers market are reminders of what makes Southern California shine." Find out what the pros are buying this time of year and what they're doing with it. Recipes for Garlic risotto with baby broccoli (from Joe Miller of Joe's), Wild striped bass with artichoke fricasee and wilted turnip greens (from Josiah Citrin of Melisse), and Meyer lemon poundcake with citrus salad and brown butter sauce (from Elizabeth Belkind, the pastry chef at Grace).

Stett Holbrook says Who needs terroir? It appears there is "a burgeoning movement in California -- call it counter-terroirism" that feels in part that France's AOC system, based in part on terroir is "viticultural racism."

The Wine of the week is 2001 Podere Il Pasazzino 'Argentina' Chianti Classico.

Some guys have all the fun and this is a very fun article. In his Matters of Taste column, David Shaw and family go along to the Honolulu fish auction with Chef Mavro as they are Making a bid for the best.

In Counterintelligence, Barbara Hansen wants to know Will you have the chicken or the chicken? This profiles the LA Chicken Center in the heart of Koreatown.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- February 4, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

My favorite article in this week's section, The artist in Puck's kitchen, is a wonderful profile of Spago chef Lee Hefter. This Matters of Taste column by David Shaw argues that it may be time for this "inventive chef" to "step into the spotlight." Tell us what you think, here.

For years, it was a hard to find this status wine but now we are Awash in Pinot Noir. Corie Brown says that even though you can find a decent bottle at Trader Joe's of $3/bottle, it may not be a good thing. Find out what's going on. How do the new Pinot's stack up? Not so well according to the Times tasting panel. This side article will tell you which ones are worth your while.

Like produce, olive oil is best when it's fresh and local. Well, the 2003-04 California olive oils are now being released and Emily Green says to Get 'em while they're fresh. This includes a brief overview of 5 of the latest releases.

Cookbook Watch, by Susan La Tempa reviews Anya von Bremzen's new book of the world's greatest dishes, "The Greatest Dishes!: Around the World in 80 Recipes." Recipes included in the article are Scott Peacock's fried chicken with tomato gravy, and Russian winter borscht with beef and pork.

Cindy Dorn provides the recipe for Warm spinach-basil salad from North Hollywood's Eclectic Cafe in Culinary SOS.

Gougeres, the french hors d'oeuvres, are the Amuse of the moment. Leslie Brenner and Donna Deane tell all about it and include a recipe for gougeres, including substitutions, and a filling of Chicken liver mousse.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Chateau Thivin en Beaujolais Côte de Brouilly.

Better known for its rock & roll guests, than its food, the restaurant at Chateau Marmont is this week's review by S. Irene Virbila. In Romancing the castle on the hill, she gives them two-and-a-half stars, credits chef Mohammed Islam, and recommends the Calamari tempura, risotto al salto, crab cakes, poached shrimp and blood orange salad, roasted free-range chicken, slow-roasted Atlantic salmon, lamb loin in red-curry emulsion, butterscotch "silk," sticky-toffee pudding with mascarpone sorbet, cookie plate.

In Restaurant Journal, Leslee Komaiko says that if it's Tuesday, it must be mussels at Mimosa . . . or pizza night on Mondays at Vincenti . . . or grilled cheese night at Campanile on Thursday . . . or cassoulet at Opaline on Monday . . . or bistro night at Jiraffe on Monday . . . or fish night at Jar on Tuesday . . . or Wednesday fondue night at Granita. Weren't we just talking about something like this on the California board? Now you can too. You can also find out about the six mini breakfast treats you can take home from Grace pastry chef Elizabeth Belkind, and the new opening of The Sunset in Malibu.

Edited February 6, 2004 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

I want to chime in here between weekly Food Sections to point out that this past Sunday's magazine section was devoted to kitchens & kitchen design. Here is the link.

You can join an already existing discussion here.

Edited February 10, 2004 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- February 11, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Food scares have us avoiding beef and salmon, while diet police keep us away from pasta. What's a cook to do? Regina Schrambling encourages us to go elegantly vegetarian with a Rhapsody in Green. The produce aisle is still safe and, there are wonderful elegant things you can do. Recipes at the end of the article for Jerusalem artichoke fritters, Squash gnocchi with sage butter, Arugula and pear salad, and Wild mushroom strudel.

Who doesn't have A love affair with truffles? This homage by S. Irene Virbila profiles husband & wife chocolatiers Christian Alexandre and Whajung Park and their L'Artisan du Chocolat next to Picholine on 1st street. These are lovingly hand-made each and every day so, unlike even the best European chocolates imported to the US, these have no preservatives. I think I'm heading out there right now! You might want to chime in on this thread about the Best Chocolatiers.

Forget that stuff you buy in the bags at the market, marshmallows have gone upscale. In Sweet nothings, light as air, Sarah Carter tells you whose doing what with them all around town, how you can make them yourself and lots of variations. Recipes for Marshmallow, Strawberry marshmallow brulee, and (to guild the lilly) Sarah's Mallomars. You've got to check this story out if only for the pretty pictures. Here's one e-Gullet thread where you can talk about it.

For Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn provides the recipe for Matsuhisa's Snow-crab rolls with caviar.

There may be fancier chocolates. There may be hand-made chocolates (see above). There may be more esteemed chocolates. But, even though they are mass produced, there is still nothing like See's and LA is a See's town. Find out all about it in Charles Perry's Thinking inside the heart-shaped box. E-gulleteers have already opined and you can too. What's your favorite See's candy?

His spotless devotion is David Shaw's Matters of Taste column. This week he fills us in on love, romance, his marriage, and stain removal. No kidding.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Gini 'La Frosca' Soave Classico.

They know 57 ways to make your tortas. This is Charles Perry's profile of Ya Ya's Burgers No. 2 in Huntington Park. He recommends the torta alemana, torta tepiqueña, torta media vuelta, torta mariachi, and steak sandwich.

For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila gives us A French bistro with high production values. In Costa Mesa, it's Chat Noir Bistro & Jazz Lounge. She gives it half a star and recommends the Oysters on the half shell, shrimp en cassoulet, pommes frites with fleur de sel, filet mignon tartare, terrine of foie gras mousse, moules marinières, hot Callebaut chocolate soufflé, crêpes suzette, crème brûlée.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- February 18, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Darn that Russ Parsons! We'll never get in. The place is already booked solid months in advance and now the rest of the world is in on the secret. Roma by the sea is Russ' profile of Luciano and Pauline Zamboni who, after retiring, moved to a remote part of the Mendocino coast, refurbished a 100 year old Victorian to open the "Inn at Victorian Gardens," and now have the highest Zagat rating of any restaurant in the Bay Area. "Rather than a state-of-the-art culinary adventure . . . dinner at the Zambonis' is much more like a meal at the country home of a wealthy Roman." Find out how they do it, Luciano's threat to write an anti-cookbook, and recipes for Salsa Verde, Semifreddo al Marsala, Bollito misto, and Stracciatella. If that isn't enough to tempt you, just check out the article for the photo of the Inn and its surroundings.

David Shaw is the Michelin Man. At least he's Ahead of the Michelin curve. Find out how David recommends using the Michelin Guide and his thoughts on this year's Michelin controversy. The companion article, You win some, you lose some, gives you a preview of who is up and who is down in the new Guide.

How to sieve a chicken. What? That's right. Charles Perry profiles Marc Meltonville and Richard Fitch. These two Englishmen are the coordinators of the Historic Kitchen Project who have been restoring royal kitchens, like Hampton Court Palace, and testing 16th centurh recipes. Find one recipe for Split pea toast points.

In A sweet thing grows up, Donna Deane sings the praises of Belgian waffles. Find out what makes them great and how to make them yourself. Recipes for Hazelnut Belgian waffles, Raised buckwheat Belgian waffles with honey butter, and Cornmeal Belgian waffles. In the accompanying Tool Department article, Corie Brown evaluates 5 models of waffel makers.

Robert M. Parker has given a second chance to Wells Guthrie's Copain Wine Cellars. Find out about what Parker thinks and about Wells Guthrie in Alice Feiring's article California-sur-Rhone.

The Wine of the Week is the 2001 Château La Canorgue Côtes du Lubéron rouge.

S. Irene Virbila reviews Blair's in Silver Lake and says Best of all, it's around the corner. Blair's epitomizes the neighborhood bistro and gets a star and a half. She recommends the shrimp cocktail and curried deviled eggs, crab cakes, roasted beet and avocado salad, chicken with sautéed spinach, grilled king salmon, braised Colorado short ribs, pear cranberry crisp, and vanilla bean crème brûlée.

In Restaurant Journal, Leslee Komaiko fills us in on "ice cream that's on the edge," with herbs and spices that is. Also say good-bye to the landmark Knoll's Black Forest Inn after 44 years, and hello to Vibrato and Oliver Cafe & Lounge.

[jschyun]

LA Times Food Section -- February 25, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

An ode to the crunchy, green pistachio. Regina Schrambling writes a well researched piece which ends with recipes for pistachio-cranberry cookies, pistachio-crusted quail, pennette with pistachios and Gorgonzola.

Awaziki, a combination of Greek tzatziki and the Ethiopian spice blend awaze, is an example of Papa Christo's version of the United Nations. Read here for Valli Herman's story on this venerable Greek market.

You've had flans for dessert, how about savory flans? Susan LaTempa reports how vegetable flans are all the rage in L.A.'s hot restaurants. Included are recipes for La Cachette's leek flan, Bastide's eggplant flan with eggplant caviar and chips, and Chloe's parsnip flan with wild mushrooms and shallots.

Cindy Dorn's Culinary SOS: recipe for Madame Matisse's beet-apple-walnut salad

Former "exotic" model, now winemaker, Patricia Kluge brazenly tells David Shaw how she has big dreams and the pocketbook to make them happen

S. Irene Virbila's WINE OF THE WEEK: 1999 Calera Mills Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir.

The debate over Whole-leaf or chopped Caesar salads. by Leslee Komaiko. Also, Gustav Anders closes after 23 years, De Mori closes.

S. Irene Virbila gives three stars to Mori Sushi, where the rice is hand hulled at the restaurant and the wasabi grated fresh. Great omakase and sushi, around $100 or so per person.

Read here for eGullet opinions on this restaurant. (hint: they love it!)

Edited February 26, 2004 by jschyun (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- March 3, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

California East, by S. Irene Virbila, profiles the new New York establishments from California's own Thomas Keller and Masa Takayama. It also tells about the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle which, it seems to me, is a mall for foodies. In addition to Keller's Per Se and Takayama's Masa, it has a 60,000 square foot Whole Foods Market and will soon have eateries from Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Gray Kunz and Charlie Trotter. There already appear to be three threads going on the New York board talking about this. Click here to chime in on or find out what they are saying about Per Se, or here for Masa, or here for Jean-Georges.

No time to become the wine connoisseur you hope to be? Never fear. Corie Brown suggests getting a Personal Wine Wonk. That's "A knowledgeable wine merchant who specializes in highly personalized service knows just the questions to ask to lead you by the hand to find exactly the right bottle for the dinner you're making. Or the party you're attending. Or the gift you're offering." The good news is they're easy to find in the small, neighborhood wine stores around town. The article provides a list of six such places from Pasadena to Santa Monica.

In a letter commenting on a previous article, Carolynn Carreno chimes in on the whole leaf lettuce debate in The whole Caesar story. A recipe for Original Caesar salad is provided.

In Cookbook Watch, Russ Parson's reviews Antonio Carluccio's new book "The Complete Mushroom Book." Read Inspired eye for the fungi which may just be "fungi-porn." Recipes for Pappardelle with porcini, Mushroom tortilla, and Pickled mushrooms in brine.

A nod to bouillabaisse diplomacy is David Shaw's Matters of Taste column. Before Frances Mayes brought us "Under the Tuscan Sun," Peter Mayle spent "A Year in Provence." In an effort to reignite interest in the region, tourism officials from Provence sent four of their best chefs to Los Angeles. Find out about their visit, food from the region, and a recipe for Scallops with celery root gratin.

The Wine of the Week is 2000 Chappellet Old Vine Cuvée, California.

In Counterintelligence: China, Linda Burum says to go to Mission 261 in Pasadena for "serious Hong Kong-style eating" including delicate trompe l'oeil dumplings (you gotta see the pix of these) and sumptuous deep-fried pigeon.

After Crate & Barrel, Gruyere and Emmenthal is S. Irene Virbila's review of Morels French Steakhouse at the Grove. She says that despite it's hokey decor and shopping mall location, it "may still be worth a visit." She gives the place one and a half stars and recommends the raw oysters, fondue, French onion soup, moules à l'aneth, baby spinach and smoked duck salad, porterhouse steak, grilled yellowtail, sautéed spinach, baby new potatoes.

Edited March 4, 2004 by JFLinLA (log)

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- March 10, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Hot Maple Drive chef Eric Klein likes to serve up the Flavors of Alsace whether he's cooking at home or at his restaurant. Bring your Riesling and Russ Parsons will fill you in. Read to the end of the article for recipes for Choucroute and Apple Tart. If you're going to make the Choucroute, you will need to know Where to find the sausage and sauerkraut.

In his accompanying article, Russ helps us in Appreciating Alsace's many charms. This is about the wine from the region which Russ insists is wonderful and reasonably priced. Read to the end of the article for information on the best of the Alsatian wines Russ and crew tasted.

Come here often? It's more than a line in this Susan La Tempa story about restaurants and their regular customers. Find out what the customers get and how the restaurants benefit.

Donna Deane says to Make them a sandwich in this article about what to do when you're tired of winter fare and spring has not yet fully sprung. Not just any sandwich, these are "salad" sandwiches but with a twist. Find recipes for Curried chicken salad on nan, Egg salad sandwich with dill, and Dungeness crab salad sandwich with Meyer lemon.

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn provides the recipe for Chocolate pecan caramel tart from the Napa Valley Wine Train.

The Wine of the week is 2002 Fairview Estate Goat-Roti from South Africa.

"Have you ever gone to a restaurant with someone who behaved in a way that embarrassed you? Yeah, me too." That's the opening of David Shaw's Matters of Taste column, The rude, the bad and the ugly. Restaurateurs are reluctant to talk about rude customers by name but David got them to share their favorite stories of badly behaved customers. This one is funny.

In the Counter Intelligence column, Charles Perry says to Come for the kibbe and stay for the ghreibeh in this profile of Lebanese restaurant Yasmeen's in South Pasadena. The best dishes are lamb kebab, kibbeh, chicken shawarma, chicken kebab, chocolate cake.

A globe-trotting chef lands in Santa Monica is this week's review by S. Irene Virbila. It may be loud, ultra-hip, and have a hunk at the velvet rope at the door checking names. However, the food is good and getting better at Cinch, the four month old hot spot in Santa Monica. The globe-trotting chef is Chris Behre. She gives the restaurant 2 stars and recommends the sushi items, tempura roll, tataki of Wagyu beef, sweet corn soup with shrimp and lobster oil, seared scallops with roasted Jerusalem artichokes, soba noodles with twice-cooked pork, roast pork stuffed with dates, grilled aged rib-eye, Fuji apple pie, s'mores.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- March 17, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

No celebrity chef would be caught dead without a website. Regina Schrambling provides The dish on chefs' websites and tells which ones worth a darn as opposed to those that are only shameless self-promotion. Web addresses for web sites of some of the better-known chefs as well as a recipe for Cucumber, crab and mango hors d'oeuvres.

Chocolate and meat? Remember when most people thought that was strange? Well now most people have at least heard of mole, even if they've never tried it. Barbara Hansen's article Chocolate and spice tells all about mole -- where it came from, where it's going, some favorite places to sample mole around LA, and a long detailed recipe to make mole poblano for the really adventurous.

Moving beyond cerveza lite is David Lansing's reminiscince of the month he spent living in Mexico this past fall. Find out everything there is to know about Mexican beers.

Culinary SOS provides the recipe for eggplant tapenade from EM Bistro on Beverly Boulevard.

Susan La Tempa has gone bananas . . . and mangoes, papayas, pineapples and other tropical fruits in this article A passion for the tropics. While the exact fruit may vary from season to season, tropical fruits are available all year round. Recipes for coconut cupcakes, Pineapple mojito, Candied papaya parfaits, and Macadamia-guava tea bread with tropical fruit salad.

The Wine of the Week is 1995 Bodegas Muga Prado Enea Rioja.

For the ultimate control freak: cook-it-yourself is by David Shaw. He discusses the trend of restaurants where diners cook their own -- everything from fondue to Korean barbecue to shabu shabu. But, the trend leaves David cold.

In this week's review, With jazz that swings and steaks that sizzle, S. Irene Virbila profiles the grill and jazz club Vibrato. Before we get to the food, this is apparently where all the jazz aficionados in town are hanging out. Located at the top of Beverly Glen and partially owned by musician and record company owner Herb Alpert, she gives the place one star. Recommended dishes are Oysters, grilled lamb chops, Kansas City steak, pounded veal chop with mozzarella and tomato sauce, braised spinach, half and half (fried onions and potatoes), warm bread pudding, and Dr. Bob's ice cream.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- March 24, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

"Delivered in an ingenious Package, it's simply the world's most perfect food." That's what Emily Green has to say about The essential egg. Find out everthing you need to know and more. For details on everything from shell color to free-range eggs to egg grades, read An egg primer. Recipes provided for Eggs Benedict, Meringue layer cake, and Spinach and parmesan tart.

Prickly, but tender at heart is Russ Parsons' ode to the artichoke (doncha just know it's spring). Russ recommends braising to transform your choke and provides recipes for Artichokes braised with saffron, black olives and almonds, Artichokes braised with green onions and sugar snap peas, and Artichokes braised with prosciutto and cream. And to make sure you prep your artichoke correctly, be sure to read Take a little more off the sides. (By the way, I hear Russ and everyone else was terrific at the Good Food event on Monday night at the Geffen Playhouse.)

There's perhaps nothing more civilized than the tradition of afternoon tea. Valli Herman says that the swanky Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills does it just right in A tender scone, a spot of tea. She provides recipes for The Peninsula's currant scones and Fresh, seasonal fruit tarts.

While everyone is worrying about wine, David Shaw is obsessing about wine glasses in A delicate case of glass warfare. Apparently there is a battle going on between wine glass makers Riedel and Spiegelau.

The Wine of the Week is 2003 Warwick Estate Professor Black Sauvignon Blanc.

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn provides the recipe for the Waldorf salad from the Edendale Grill in Silver Lake.

S. Irene Virbila raves about the new Patina at Disney Hall in Still ahead of the curve. In downtown LA, not West Hollywood, Angelenos are staying out late despite our reputation as an "early-to-bed" city. She gives the place 3 stars and recommends the caviar service, pickled beet and orange salad, sautéed foie gras, Maine lobster and artichoke fricasse, wild salmon with melted leeks, braised veal cheeks with parsnip purée, cote de boeuf for two, caramelized apples with Linzer dough, chocolate crème brûlée with peppermint sorbet. However, the private chef's table and 6-course chef's table menu sounds appealing too.

In Restaurant Journal Leslee Komaiko says chefs are "going wild for undomesticated greens." Clementine in Century City has set off a rush for more "high-end bakery-sandwich joints." Border Grill in Pasadena is closing, changes at Citrine and Mis opens in West Hollywood.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- March 31, 2004

Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times sometimes posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. One is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper.

Well there is no doubt the spring has arrived. Why? Because Russ Parsons is writing about asparagus . . . not once but twice in this week's issue. In Delicate harvest in crisis, Russ tells about how we may be experiencing the last days of the asparagus industry and a tradition in California. The accompanying article, The great asparagus divide, chimes in on that age-old debate -- fat or thin spears? Russ says they're both great and provides recipes for Asparagus wrapped in crisp prosciutto, Asparagus and shrimp risotto, and Asparagus in sauce mimosa.

Evan Kleiman tells how she moved beyond her Ashkenazi roots in Beyond brisket; a Sephardic Passover. Find recipes for Keftes de prasa (beef and leek croquettes), Pesce in carpione (marinated white fish with caramelized onions and pine nuts), and Tezpisti (Turkish walnut sponge cake).

In Kosher wine gets a passport, Charles Perry says there are kosher wines for Passover besides the overly sweet Manishewitz.

Culinary SOS brings the recipe for banana cream pie from Clementine's.

Alan Davidson, the author of "The Oxford Companion to Food," died in December. The man who "elevated food writing to a new level of seriousness" is appreciated by Charles Perry in Remembering a pioneering author. A recipe for Greek chicken is provided.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Loimer Gruner Veltliner 'Lois'.

Civilized dining thrives under young chef's eye is this week's review by S. Irene Virbila. She gives Alex Scrimgeour's restaurant, Alex, two-and-a-half stars and recommends the oysters with apple mignonette, chilled foie gras au torchon, hand-cut bluefin tuna tartare, endive and Roquefort salat, crispy duck with Gorgonzola polenta, lobster three ways, halibut with fava beans and tomato salad, Colorado lamb rack, braised veal cheeks, tarte Tatin, and caramelized pineapple in phyllo pastry with mascarpone sorbet.

In the Counter Intelligence column, Barbara Hansen says to Order off the menu when visiting Otomisan, a Japanese restaurant in 1st Street in Boyle Heights. What she means is that although there is a menu printed in English, some of the best dishes are those written in Japanese on strips of paper hanging on the walls. Some of these best dishes are yamakake, tuna sashimi with daikon, unagi donburi, sukiyaki, and chicken teriyaki.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- April 7, 2004

Sure the fresh produce of summer is great but Regina Schrambling love the first blush of spring -- asparagus, artichokes, fava beans and more. She waxes rhapsodic in The elements of spring. Recipes of Salmon rillettes, Rhubarb-pecan crisp, Potato-artichoke tian with mushroom and green garlic, and Spring vegetable ragout.

Let them eat brioche, warm from the oven. That pretty much says it all in this story from Donna Deane. Actually, she evaluates three recipes and tells you which one wins out.

Do not read Seeking boffo huevos if you like to eat a small breakfast, or skip that meal altogether. Lynda Obst and Victor Lomeli search out the best of a traditional heavy Mexican breakfast in and around Silver Lake. Find out Victor's criteria for the qualities of what makes a good breakfast and a list of places to find them.

Sure, dried blood oranges are something special but who wants to pay $3 for a teeny, tiny packet. Charles Perry was motivated to get his own dehydrator and evaluates the home models for you in When you need help drying out.

You can do it the hard way or you can do Leg of lamb the easy way. If you'd like to avoid doing all the work yourself for Easter, Barbara Hansen tells you where you can go to have someone do the work for you. Just remember to order early.

Winemakers with a story to tell is David Shaw's profile of pals Mark Estrin and Carroll Kemp. Their first 3 vintages of Red Car wines got excellent reviews and sold out quickly. Find out why.

The Wine of the Week is 2002 Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett.

An Italian revival in the Valley is S. Irene Virbila's review of Panzanella. The new restaurant by three of the four Drago brothers (Celestino is busy elsewhere). She gives the place one star and recommends the ribollita soup, fried calamari, bresaola with arugula, swordfish carpaccio, tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms, spaghetti Natale, risotto with meatballs, cotoletto di pollo, osso buco, and sorbetti.

In Hipper, happier hours, Leslee Komaiko says happy hours are getting better at restaurants around LA. Find up what's up at Rockenwagner in Santa Monica, Chaya Venice, Pinot Hollywood, Border Frill, Alto Palato, and Tantra in Silver Lake. In the Small bites portion of the story, find out at Norman's, Lincoln Steakhouse Americana, and Tokio.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Food Section -- April 14, 2004

The Santa Barbara Wine Country Issue

No time to post the links to the individual articles this week but here's the link to the LA Times Food Section. From there, you can easily get to any of the articles summarized below.

Call them mavericks by Corie Brown, profiles a series of young winemakers in Santa Barbara County who are out to surpass the wines of northern California. "Industrial parks on the back roads of the tiny towns of Buellton, Lompoc and Santa Maria, just north of the city of Santa Barbara, are being jury-rigged into wine laboratories as this small army of guerilla winemakers strives to make the best wines it can."

Can't find these next generation wines? A tour of the new wave tells you where and a brief review of seven of these wines.

If you are going to Santa Barbara, you may want to check out the Wine Cask for both eating and the wine shop. S. Irene Virbila reviews it. Located on El Paseo, she gives it 2 stars and says the menu now measures up to the wine list. Recommended dishes are the cobb salat, tri-tip sandwich, burker, baked Fanny Bay oysters, duck confit salad, baby frisee and arugula salad, fennel-crusted lamb sirloin, halibut with Camargue red rice, and pear napoleon.

Russ Parson says That's gold inside those spiny creatures from local waters. He's talking about prized uni, otherwise known as sea urchin roe which believe it or not is found on the northern Channel Islands just off of Santa Barbara's coast. Russ tells you where you can buy the stuff and provides recipes for Spaghetti with sea urchins and clams, and Cuttlefish pasta with uni sauce.

Nestled between LA and Santa Barbara is Oxnard, the strawberry capital of the world. Not that you needed to be convinced, but Emily Green tells all in When too much is not enough. She also provides recipes for Slow-cooked strawberry preserves, and something called an Eton mess.

Now that the show has finished shooting, read Culinary SOS for the recipe for the Classic Cosmopolitan from the show Sex and the City.

The Wine of the Week is 2001 Fontodi Chianti Classico.

In an article that most eGulleteers will agree with, David Shaw tells about his year of eating dangerously. "Bring on the fries, and make that hamburger blood-rare. But first, a dozen on the half-shell.

In the Counter Intelligence column, Linda Burum profiles Odaesan in Koreatown. In a luxurious setting, the restaurant shows "what happens to sashimi outside of Japan." She recommends eating the hwe dup bap, special sashimi dinner, al tchigae (cod roe soup), and lobster sashimi.

[JFLinLA]

LA Times Digest -- April 21, 2004

"LA chefs are swooning over Kurobuta pork" which could become the "other other white meat." That's what Carolynn Carreno says in A new slice of luxury. Find out why, who's serving it around town, the only place in LA where you can buy it directly, where you can order it, and recipes for Pork belly with natural cooking juices and kumquat-apricot chutney, Kurobuta port chops with white bean puree, ham hock jus and salsa verde, and Poached Kurobuta tenderloin with pickled plum, shiitake mushrooms and potatoes.

Regina Schrambling sends a dispatch from New York City reporting that A dining frenzy takes Gotham. Restaurants are packed in NYC where "the food is cutting edge, the money's flying fast and reservations are impossible." There's also a list of the some of the hottest places.

John Balzar was wondering if the cliche about firefighters being good cooks was true. Find out what the team and LA City's Station 112 have to offer in So Chief, what's on the menu? If you want to check it out at home, there's a recipe for Fire Station 112 mostaccioli with pot roast, meatballs and sausage.

You gotta see the pictures in this article to truly understand what Susat La Tempa is talking about. In Three gorgeous mosaics she talks about vegetable terrines which have been updated and are easier to prepare. Recipes for Green terrine with cashew cheese, Ratatouille terrine with goat cheese, and Caprese terrine with basil oil.

In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn provides the recipe for Meyer lemon trifle cake from Joe's Restaurant in Venice.

David Shaw attends a "Pinot and Pork" tasting in Santa Monica and discovers that his favorite wines go very well with the meat he likes in many, many varieties. Find out more in A perfect match that's hitting the road.

The Wine of the Week is 2001 Domaine le Sang des Cailloux Vacqueyras Cuvée Floureto.

Bring on the meze: The night is young is S. Irene Virbila review of the elegant Mandaloun in Glendale where "a late-night crowd come for sophisticated Lebanese fare, live music and an impressive wine list." She gives them two-and-a-half stars and recommends Everything in the traditional Lebanese meze or sampling of appetizers, especially homos, baba ghanouj, tabbouleh, labneh, stuffed grape leaves, kibbeh makly, kibbeh nayeh sausages with lemon juice glaze, freshly baked lavash bread, red mullet, beef kafta, and mhalabieh (rose water-scented milk pudding).

Barbara Hansen profiles Teresitas Family Restaurant in East LA in If it's Tuesday, these must be albondigas. She recommends the chicken albondigas soup, costillas de puerco en ehile negro, espinazo con nopales, and chilaquiles.

From the Thursday, April 22 Calendar Section, I thought e-Gullet readers might be interested in Grab an apron, add a chef, stir it up, an article about cooking classes and schools around town.