Braised cabbage

[guajolote]

I'm going to braise some assorted meat I dug out of the back of the freezer (lamb shank, rib tips, 1/2 a ham shank) and I wanted to add some cabbage wedges. After browning the meat and deglazing with wine and stock I'll put it in a low oven (250) for about three hours. At what point should I add the cabbage? I've read somewhere that cooking cabbage too long increases the bitterness.

Thanks

[Robin Meredith]

I'm not sure I'd do this. I love roasting a lot of different things together (both for convenience and for the sheer sensuality of it), but I'd be a little nervous about mixing cabbage flavors up with everything else.

One obvious alternative is a separate stovetop braise (I think Marcella Hazan has some nice recipes along these lines in some of her earlier books). You also might want to think about searing or pan-grilling some wedges on the stovetop - this is a technique I picked up from Alfred Portale (he uses it as an accompaniment for one of his signature duck recipes), and it works great. Napa cabbage is especially good for this - just cut into 3/8 to 1/2" thick wedges, leaving the stem intact to hold the slices together, drizzle with a little oil and cook over high heat, preferably in a grill pan (but any good heavy skillet will do). Before too long the sugars in the cabbage will start to caramelize nicely.

The end product works really well with rich, meaty pan sauces - and you don't have to worry about funking up your big protein course.

[Simon Majumdar]

Rather than braise the cabbage. why not try and make cabbage and bacon with it which would work wonderfully

I shred a white or savoy cabbage ( after taking out the woody central stalk on each leaf ) into very fine shreds

I then brown lardons or chunks of pancetta until crisp and drain away the excess fat

When ready sweat the cabbage (in no more than the residual water left after cooking ) in a mix of olive oil and butter until it begins to soften but does not lose its crunch

Add a small carton ( 1 cup ) of light cream and some salt and black pepper

mix in one teaspoon of english mustard

add in the lardons or pancetta and warm the whole thing through

Incredibly simple but it works so well with braised meats

If I wasn't out tonight I would make this. Perfect.

S

Edited March 11, 2003 by Simon Majumdar (log)

[guajolote]

I just went to the store and could of sworn I bought a beautiful head of savoy cabbage, but now I can't find it. Did I actually buy it? Did I drop it on the sidewalk?

Oh well, I'm glad I didn't add it to the braise anyway. Thanks Robin for the advice.

Simon, that sounds wonderful, but couldn't you add bacon and cream to any vegetable to make it delicious?

[Joy]

Simon, that sounds wonderful, but couldn't you add bacon and cream to any vegetable to make it delicious?

Your point?

[Simon Majumdar]

I just went to the store and could of sworn I bought a beautiful head of savoy cabbage, but now I can't find it. Did I actually buy it? Did I drop it on the sidewalk?

Oh well, I'm glad I didn't add it to the braise anyway. Thanks Robin for the advice.

Simon, that sounds wonderful, but couldn't you add bacon and cream to any vegetable to make it delicious?

Perhaps

BUT

Bacon and cream with cabbage is a wonderful combination and a classic one

I forgot to mention that in more classic treatments, they add Juniper berries

S

[torakris]

We actually "braise" cabbage wedges in our outdoor dutch oven all the time. Toss them in with meat (usually beef or chicken), potaoes, carrots, onions and garlic. the cabbage, placed on the bottom, gets wonderfully carmelized and tastes incredible.

[fyfas]

I, too, love braised savoy cabbage. Should you do it without the bacon or meat but some cream and herbs (tarragon or thyme), sear a bunch of fresh (U-10) sea scallops and add them to the braised cabbage for a simple but marvelous meal.

Had it as a restaurant appetizer in late December and have made it several times since. A good excuse to drink champagne or a really rich chardonnay in winter.

Bob Sherwood