Bernard Loiseau R.I.P.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Mort de Bernard Loiseau, le chef étoilé de Saulieu

[robert brown]

Thanks, Steve, for posting that. It's a real schocker. I suspect it was financial difficulties more than the downgrade from Gault-Millau that was responsible, although the downgrade may have been the proverbial straw that broke the camel's back.

I first met Bernard Loiseau in the late 1970s when he was hired by a Paris restaurateur, a M. Verget, who had purchased La Cote d'Or in Saulieu. Loiseau had recently come from Troisgros. We had a pleasant conversation sitting at the bar the morning after we had dined there. He was very modest and gentle. We did not return until 1992 or so, and by then he had three Guide Michelin stars and an enormous head. He mimicked Alain Chapel in the quasi-imperial way he spoke to you, which I found rather offensive. (That they resembled each other in appearance may have had something to do with it). The fact is that he never was regarded by experienced gastronomes or gastronomic travelers as being at the top level, and I think his restaurant was not well-located in the first place. In fact, I and my wife were discussing this very subject with Lizziee and her husband four nights ago at dinner. Nonetheless, you hate to see it happen. It has to be a complicated story which will provide a lot of fodder for the gastronomic grist mill.

Edited February 25, 2003 by robert brown (log)

[Explorer]

I am shocked and saddened.

We were at his Cote d'Or actually almost a year ago; and am looking at a picture we framed after that outstanding 3 hour lunch we had. He was 52 and apparently the cause of death is unknown; there's an investigation going on.

[robert brown]

http://miseajour.apicius.com/loiseau/fr/do...ssierpresse.asp

This will tell you all you need to know about Loiseau. It must be quicker to go to Google and type in "Groupe Loiseau". It might be a classic case of overambition or lack of foresight combined with reality coming home to roost. We will see. There is a strong implication of suicide in the Figaro article.

[Steve Plotnicki]

I read on one of the wine forums that he killed himself with a shotgun in his home. That might have just been a rumor, but we will see. But killing yourself for the loss of Michelin stars or Gault Millau points is taking your food pretty seriously even though he must have been in big financial trouble. It's a restaurant I never ate at. I had wanted to go there to eat the famous Alexander Dumaine chicken dish but by the time I was ready I had heard the place was already in decline.

[robert40]

I remember in the mid 90's while I was at the Inn At Little Washington he came as a guess chef.

Many chefs/cooks there at the time found it to be the highlight of their career.

There was even a lifesize framed menu of his dish's in the kitchen.Old kitchen not sure if its in the new one.

My God what a Loss.

RR

[awbrig]

Seeing I cant read French...what did the article say, in a nutshell...Thx

[Bux]

We enjoyed our meal in January of 1995. In retrospect it seems a simple menu, but I assure you it was perfectly cooked and a treat. I regret not having the chance to return.

In memory

Bernard Loiseau

La Côte d?Or

Menu a 850 FF

• Caramelized cauliflower soup
  
• Poached oysters with caviar and aparagus with oyster sauce
  
• Ecrevisse with cabbage
  
• Sandre with red wine sauce, shallot compote
  
• Chicken breast with foie gras and truffe sauce, mashed potatoes with truffles, and pencil thin leeks.
  
• Cheese course
  
• Passion fruit sorbet
  
• Wafer thin cookies with pears and nuts (almonds and hazel nuts) in a buttery caramelized sauce
  
• Chocolate wafers, chocolate ice cream and an orange sauce
  

[robert brown]

Awbrig, the most interesting parts of the articles are that he was the only big-time chef to have gone public (Junior Market of the Paris Bourse. The shares never did anything. He floated himelf because he was 5 millions euros in debt). It quotes Bocuse as saying that the demotion from 19 to 17 in the 2003 Gault Millau and a couple of negative stories in the press are what killed him. Otherwise it is a recap of his career; working at Troisgros at age 15, running a restaurant in Paris, then the Cote d'Or which he bought in 1982. Finally three stars in 1991. He had three bistros in Paris, as well.

What will become of the place? He may still have a really fine cellar.

[awbrig]

damn. very sad.

thanks for the summary Robert...

[Explorer]

The NY Times reported it was a gunshot.

You can check this special link for more coverage in English. News on Bernard Loiseau

I have been curious as to why his "cuisine a l'eau" didn't become more popular elsewhere. It does make sense especially with today's trend for less fatty nutrients.

[guru]

That's very sad.

I sometimes imagined him(when i was working there) late at his house and falling into tears because of all the pressure he would put on himself. He would never stop talking. He seemed to have an undestructible joy. His place probably survived that long cause of that drive he (alone) had. He was so far into debts that i still wonder how he could get more money for the recent renovations. Nobody could have done it. Saulieu is even smaller than St-Etienne.

The food though, was great.The Poularde Alexandre Dumaine was more than anyone can imagine and everything tasted so good so fresh. He never cheated on anything and was always ready to outdo himself in order to promote a supplier.His stuff was never new but just re-imagined, re-done.

I read his family wants to continue business;the choice isn't easy at all.Phillipe Jousse is known to be doing great at Alain Chapel but i don't think they'll ever get the third star back.

[Steve Plotnicki]

I didn't realize he was so young. Considering his age, he was out of the cooking mainstream. One would think someone of his age would have been reinventing their cuisine so they could stay at the top of their game.

[yossi]

I got one of the last opportunities to eat at "La Cote d'Or" three weeks ago. It was snowing in Saulieu, and the world - from a middle-eastern point-of-view - couldn't seem more optimistic and beautiful. I will remember his kindness, his great smile, and his arms spread like an "Oiseau".

I thought I would not mark this dinner in my notes, but it seems that I willl...

[delights]

The highest french gastronomy lost a great chef.

His cooking and his art were marvullous.

[fresh_a]

Loiseau's wife was quoted as saying the suicide was due to fatigue and his excessive behaviour... His company was certainly having problems as well..

[Varmint]

For those of you who are not familiar with Loiseau, you may want to check out the book, "Burgundy Stars." It's a compelling story of Loiseau's efforts to attain the third Michelin star.

Available at Amazon

[Edited to revise ink to Amazon.com so that eGullet gets the commission from a purchase.]

Edited February 25, 2003 by Bux (log)

[Kobicook]

By Mark John

PARIS (Reuters) - The pronouncements of France?s mighty food guides have always been able to make or break a restaurant in this food-obsessed country.

But the critics themselves faced criticism Tuesday after top chef Bernard Loiseau was found shot dead in an apparent suicide following the decision by the renowned GaultMillau guide to cut its rating for his flagship restaurant in Burgundy.

The latest Reuters account may be read here.

[As noted below, good jounalistic ethics and and our user agreement prohibit the reproduction of word published elsewhere in print or online. A link to the orignal source is always acceptable along with a synopsis or brief citation. This post has been shortened by a moderator and a link added. Kobicook, thanks for your concern. I've managed the partial deletion. I hope it's to your satisfaction. --Bux]

Edited February 25, 2003 by Bux (log)

[Jinmyo]

kobicook, we can't post full articles due to Giant Copyright Sharks With Frickin' Lazer Beams On Their Heads.

[Kobicook]

Jinmyo,

Thanks. I didn't know. Can I delete part of it?

[see your original message above.]

Edited February 25, 2003 by Bux (log)

[Bux]

I didn't realize he was so young. Considering his age, he was out of the cooking mainstream. One would think someone of his age would have been reinventing their cuisine so they could stay at the top of their game.

Robuchon retired at an earlier age. True Robuchon retired at the height of his influence and is coming out of retirement, but with a less demanding sort of restaurant and not with the idea of managing a three star enterprise heavily in debt. I suspect too much of Loiseau's attention and focus were drawn away from his cooking by his overreaching businesses. It's a pity as we loved that meal.

His "cuisine a l'eau" didn't become more popular elsewhere and he himself didn't hold to it's philosophy either. By the time we ate there, it was only an influence on his food as he reintroduced some cream and better into his food.

I second the recommendation for Burgundy Stars as an interesting book for those wanting some insight into a great French provincial restaurant.

[Jon Tseng]

I have vague recollections of something similar... a two (one?) star restaurant in France (Germany? Switzerland?) which burnt down in a fire taking the chef with it, in an apparent suicide.

Again, the stresses and shenanighans of the Michelin men were cited.

Last fifteen years, probably last ten

Can anyone else remember this one?

J

[pixelchef]

So tragic. It truly is shocking.

[Suzanne F]

Jon, I too remember that incident. But I can't remember who or where, either. Just that a restaurant burned down, and someone died.

Isn't Vatel a precedent for this sad business, if it was indeed suicide? That was long, long before critics mattered much. It was all the pressure he put on himself. As, possibly, here.

edited to remove unintended innuendo.

Edited February 25, 2003 by Suzanne F (log)

[Steve Plotnicki]

It was Yves Schillinger's father who died in that fire wasn't it? What was the name of that restaurant?