Bilbao: Restaurant Reviews & Recommendations

[Alvaro]

Although hotels are good to very good in the Basque Country, I'd pay a close attention to the inexpensive and many times excellent rural guesthouses. There's a well organized net. I've spent a pleasant week in a guesthouse called Iketxe in the surroundings of Hondarribia. Take a look at: http://www.nekatur.net/

Licenciado Poza Street is one of the traditional hot spots for bar hopping in Bilbao. Another good area for this popular activity is the old part of the city (Las 7 calles). If you sigh for ham, La Viña is a wonderful option (although a little bit expensive). Of course, there are excellent restaurants in Bilbao, like Guría, Goizeko Kabi, Zortziko, Bermeo, and Club Naútico. For those preferring, unsophisticated restaurants and excellent food (fish), Itxas Bide, in the old port of Algorta, might be their place.

If San Sebastián is unbearingly crowded, Hondarribia is more than a good option for bar hopping (it's just less than 15 kilometres away from San Sebastian). And the city really deserves a visit.

Not to be missed, the famous Gernika's market, especially on Mondays. Although Gernika itself is far from beautiful, the surrounding area -the natural park of Urdaibai-, is spectacular. Charming small towns like Mundaka, Kanala, Elantxobe, Ibarrangelua, Pedernales, wild beaches like Laida and Laga, caves with prehistoric paintings in Kortezubi are not far away.

Cheers

[Bux]

. . . . Hondarribia . . . really deserves a visit.

. . . .

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Alvaro. welcome to eGullet and the Spain forum. It's clear you know the Pais Vasco much better than I do, but I can't help but agree with you on Hondarribia. We stayed in the Hotel Obispo, one of the three historic buildings that are now hotels in the old part of Hondarribia. The parador is one of them and there are two others down the street, but I wouldn't miss the fisherman's quarters where most of the bars and restaurants are located. It's not a long walk between the two areas. We made a small effort to try some tapas in the evening, but after a large lunch at Martin Berasategui, we didn't really have much appetite. A rural guest house sounds like a good restful alternative, especially for a longer stay.

[zeitoun]

I've spent a pleasant week in a guesthouse called Iketxe in the surroundings of Hondarribia. Take a look at: http://www.nekatur.net/

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Welcome to eGullet Alvaro!

Iketxe is the place I actually stayed in when I was in the area last month. I cannot recommend it enough and for the price ($50 per night), it is an excellent bargain. Beautiful surroundings, clean and cozy, wonderful host, and quite a treat to wake up each morning with the sight of green hills and sheep right by your balcony.

Great place.

Edited June 21, 2005 by zeitoun (log)

[Judith Gebhart]

For San Sebastian, try the amazing restaurant, Mugaritz which is in a nearby suburb. It is a culinary destination with an internatiional distinction and reputation. One of our first choices whenever we visit Spain. We have followed this chef since 1997. He is exceptional. Gault Millau magazine recently listed El Bulli and Mugaritz as two of the world's BEST 10 molecular chefs. We have yet to truly understand this specific honor. Nevertheless, please consider Mugaritz!

If you are going to Bilbao, include the serious dining room at the Guggenheim for at least ONE meal. This is another Berasetegui chef with superb credentials. He offers both traditional and nuevo dishes. It is thrilling to dine within the museum and experience a truly delicious meal by such a creative chef. The current exhibition by Richard Serra is a MUST visit. We have to await our 2005 Fall visit to savour this amazing retrospective.

Now if you go to Axpe, as Zeitoun suggested, eat at Etxebarri, who is the greatest a la brasa chef in the world. This is another culinary first which should not be missed. You will never regret experiencing this unique dining treat.

I would also recommend Echaurren's excellent fare especially in the son's dining room. I will post a more comprehensive report gleaned from our last May-June, 2005 visit. This young Echaurren chef is also the annointed new chef for the new Gehry restaurant and hotel under construction at the M. de Riscal Rioja winery. This too will be another special destination for the diner and Gehry admirerers.

[haide]

Thanks everyone, will make a good list of all the advice and report back on our adventures!

[ozgirl06]

I'm headed to Bilbao in the next couple of weeks and would like some dining recommendations. I'll be travelling with my parents who are not terribly adventuresome eaters (although getting moreso ;-)).

There are some food restrictions that need to be heeded due to religious reasons - particularly no pork and no shellfish. I know that this is Spain I'm going to and these two ingredients are staples - even by asking for "vegetarian", you're not guaranteed a pork-free dish. :-)

Does anyone know of any cheap or moderately priced restaurants that might offer good spanish/basque cooking and have dishes that would meet the eating restrictions?

Much Thanks!

[little ms foodie]

My husband and I were just saying the other night that the food we had at the Guggenheim was surprisingly good and inexpensive. We had a nice 3 course lunch during our visit and the executive chef is a well know Basque chef Martin B (I can never spell it!). You don't have to have a ticket to the museum though to eat there. They were busy and reservations are recommended.

cafe

[malika]

When my sister first moved to Spain, she was a vegetarian. She would tell waiters that she was a vegetarian, and needed to order dishes with no meat. She would order what they suggested, but often it turned out that there was meat in the dish. When she would complain to the waiter, a common reply was "But there's no meat in that-- just ham!"

You'll do pretty well with pintxos, I think. They're displayed out on the counter, and have pretty simple ingredients, so you'll be able to see everything you're eating - no hidden ingredients! Walk through the Casco Viejo and try a bunch of places-- And if you can eat bacalao - since it's not a shellfish-- you'll still get to eat lots of traditional (and contemporary) basque food.

[Hector]

Looking for really Kashrut meals in the Basque Country must be like looking for a palm tree growing in Greenland. Great chorizo, lomo, Iberian Ham and squid, mussels, txipirones is served at it's ultimatley most delicious around here.

Think you shouln't be worried about pork fat at least it's olive-oil country here. Try to look in a part of the city called Casco Viejo (the old quater). It's just across the river from the avenue of Lopez De Haro / Don Diego (can't miss it, when in Bilbao). Or the Guggenheim side. Nearly all the Restaurants here are on the same street, there are great places both to eat dinner or pintxos (tapas). My favorite is a simple and very cheap restaurant on a side street called: Kolumno (not sure of the name, eaten there several times) or something. If you're not sure of the location. Ask. English will do sometimes, sometimes not.

The Spanish isn't so keen on mixing meat and pork either (only in stews like cocido, which isn't typically basque anyway). Pork meat will often be found in charcuteries than in solid form, so I'll guess you must order steaks. The Spanish wouldn't mix in pork with a steak, that's for sure. The fish is really good too. Salt dried cod / Bacalao is excellently served in different sauces. The most ussual being Bacalao A la Viscaína. Named for the region Viscaya which Bilbao is situated in.

I know that many people is not so keen to try things that are salted and dried, but the salt cod in Bilbao is so smashing good. One "primo", which reminds me very much of Pisto Manchego, Samfaina or Ratatouille which is very typical for Bilbao consists of fried vegetables, peppers, onion + others stired witheggs. Remeber the name was "Pisto Bilabaina" or something.

As for tapa/pintxo options on your local pintxeria, there many good options. Anything with bacalao (alguno con bacalao) can do wonders. Manchego cheese with anchovies and olive oil, or just a nice tortilla.

Useable lingo:

Anything with Salt Dried Cod - alguno con bacalao.

sin carne de puerco = no pork meat

sin charcuterias = no sausage (which will undoubtly contain pork)

sin maríscos = no shellfish

sin grasa de pello/puerco = no pork fat.

Edited July 23, 2005 by Hector (log)

[Pelayin]

The Spanish isn't so keen on mixing meat and pork either (only in stews like cocido, which isn't typically basque anyway). Pork meat will often be found in charcuteries than in solid form, so I'll guess you must order steaks. The Spanish wouldn't mix in pork with a steak, that's for sure. The fish is really good too. Salt dried cod / Bacalao is excellently served in different sauces. The most ussual being Bacalao A la Viscaína. Named for the region Viscaya which Bilbao is situated in.

I know that many people is not so keen to try things that are salted and dried, but the salt cod in Bilbao is so smashing good.

Two different and traditional ways to serve codfish are "bacalao a la vizcaina" and "bacalao al pil pil". "Salsa Vizcaína is built with several ingredients, including a special sort of red pepper called "pimiento choricero" AND very probably CURED HAM, which should be taking into account for those that do not want to eat pork. Preparation "al pil pil" is done with the codfish gelatine, olive oil (in which garlic cloves and chilli peppers have been fried).

As for tapa/pintxo options on your local pintxeria, there many good options. Anything with bacalao (alguno con bacalao) can do wonders. Manchego cheese with anchovies and olive oil, or just a nice tortilla.

At Plaza Nueva de Bilbao there are plenty of places to enjoy pintxos, of which Victor Montes is supposed to be one of the best. I feel very comfortable at a very small tavern called "Plaza Nueva" as the square name.

Useable lingo:

Anything with Salt Dried Cod - alguno con bacalao.

sin carne de puerco = no pork meat

sin charcuterias = no sausage (which will undoubtly contain pork)

sin maríscos = no shellfish

sin grasa de pello/puerco = no pork fat.

"puerco" is not very used in Spain. Substitute it by "cerdo" and you will do fine.

"sin carne de cerdo" then. Charcuterías is the name of the shop where be Spaniards buy our sausages et al. "sin embutidos" would be a better approach.

Best,

P.

[vserna]

Small correction: to say "anything with codfish", use this expression: "Cualquier cosa con bacalao". "Alguno con bacalao" would not be understood.

[brr]

no pork or shellfish - how unfortunate in an area that treats these two ingredients with reverence

we were in Bilbao for 2 days last month

the restaurant in the guggenheim is quite good - for lunch you can order a E20 menu or site in a back room and order a more adventurous E45 or E55 menu - we ordered the E45 menu and generally enjoyed it although we felt that some of the young chefs dishes did not quite hit the mark (yes, the restaurant is a part of the Martin B group but to my knowledge he gives Josean Alija a fairly free rein and my guess is Martin B is rarely there) - time permitting, I will post a more complete review of this meal complete with photos

I also echo the recommendations for tapas in the Plaza Nuevo - we did not try Victor Montes because we fell in love with the tapas at a place called Naga (I think) which is nestled in one of the corners of the square

have fun on your trip - Bilbao is a great little city and they have clearly worked very hard to spruce it up over the last few years

[Hector]

Small correction: to say "anything with codfish", use this expression: "Cualquier cosa con bacalao". "Alguno con bacalao" would not be understood.

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thanks for correcting my mistakes!

[kyeblue]

Hi, this is my first post but I have been reading this forum for a while.

I will take a 17 day trip to spain in late may - mid june, Three nights Bilbao, three nights San Sebastian, two nights Segovia, five nights Almagro in La Mancha (to attend a meeting) and three nights Madrid.

The first sunday of my trip will be in Bilbao and last one in Madrid, and it seems that almost all good restaurants in Bilbao and Madrid close on Sunday, especially for dinner. I will appreciate any recommendations on where to dine on Sunday nights.

One additional question, I will be traveling with my wife and our 2.5 year old daughter who is fairly well behaved on the table. I will avoid the most formal restaurants during my trip, but will we feel welcome in restaurants like Andra Mari and Zaranda?

many thanks in advance.

Kenny

[Rogelio]

Don't worry for your daughter restaurants in Spain are children friendly.

Regarding, Sunday night in Madrid the best options are Casa Lucio (book well in advance), Rafa (Very good seafood restaurant) and Asturianos (Wine bar/Tavern).

[kyeblue]

Don't worry for your daughter restaurants in Spain are children friendly.

Regarding, Sunday night in Madrid the best options are Casa Lucio (book well in advance), Rafa (Very good seafood restaurant) and Asturianos (Wine bar/Tavern).

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Rogelio, thanks for your advice. I am happy to know that spainish restaurants are children friendly.

One question on Casa Lucio, Maribel in her guide claims it is "NOT for those allergic to smoke!", truely that bad?

Kenny

[Rogelio]

It's not that bad, but at the end of the meal and mainly in the lower floor dining room there will be some people lighting big cigars. Just go and leave earlier.

[vserna]

A few other Madrid options would be one of Cazorla's six locations for very respectable Andalusian food; L'Andecha for its top-notch old-style Spanish cuisine; Mesón Txistu for grilled Basque-style fish and steak.

Bilbao is complicated on Sundays - most eveyone closes shop! Serantes I and II, two 'marisquerías' with outstanding seafood, are two good choices. Near the airport at Derio there's a nice old farmhouse with good food, Artebakarra.

[Txacoli]

Extebarre in Axpe is open for Sunday lunch. When we were there last month it was overrun with children.....in a good way. It was a sweet, family feel along with among the best food in Spain. Andra Mari is the quintessential family restaurant (the same family for generations) and there have been well behaved Spanish kids there on each of our visits. It is across the street from the local high school. It is mostly a lunch place, though they are open at nights on Friday and Saturday. Why miss the view, though? (Both places have no smoking zones). I would post fotos if I were bright enough about this website. Andra Mari got our vote for overall best meal in Spain....Akelarre, Arzak, Mugaritz, Can Fabres notwithstanding.

Kids or no kids, I would add that we found wine steward at Zortziko to be the all around best of our long visit: knowledgeable, caring, concerned......he actually loved the wines he served us and communicated his feelings. My wife actually cried after his presentation....

Our solution to the relative Sunday drought in Bilbao? Drive to Donostia: Akelarré is open for lunch,as are Arzak, Mugaritz and Bodegon Alejandro (Martin B's Triple-A franchise in Parte Vieja). Alona Berri is open, and all by itself is worth the 45 minute drive down a gorgeous highway through beautiful mountains......once you escape Bilbao, that is. And the paseo of all the grannies and grandpas pushing strollers through the pristine streets of Donostia on Sunday is priceless.

[vserna]

I believe that kyeblue was asking about Sunday nights ("I will appreciate any recommendations on where to dine on Sunday nights"), not about Friday or Saturday night, Txacoli. Actually, I can think about a great Wednesday lunch recommendation in Valencia, come to think of it... Or a terrific Monday breakfast in Padova.

[Txacoli]

Wow.....maybe someday I can be as smart as Victor!

Perhaps the questioner understood my basic point: have a nice brunch on Sunday, like everyone else......especially with a child. It it possible to have two big meals in a day? If half a dozen of the best restaurants in Spain are within forty minutes, and open until five or so.....don't worry about Sunday night.

[kyeblue]

Rogelio, Vserna and Txacoli,

many thanks for the suggestions and sharing your experience. I will definitely go to Extebarri for Sunday lunch, and check out Serantes for dinner if we feel for another big meal. Andra Mari is on my list for Monday lunch.

[kyeblue]

This is a quite different topic but I am too shy to start another thread.

I am a big fan of lamb. I will stay in Segovia for two days on my trip and plan to stop by at Aranda de Duero for lunch on the drive from Madrid to Bilbao. But I found that most Michelin starred places in Basque country also serve roast lamb and many have it on the tasting manu. How does the roast lamb at those Michelin starred places compared to the roasting houses in Sepulveda and Aranda de Duero. Should I resist the temptation of lamb when I am in Bilbao and San Sebastian to leave room for seafood.

any suggestions on dining choices near the city Segovia are welcome. I heard about ''Tanin" in Sepulveda, and will plan a lunch there. Aranda de Duero seems to have endless choices in Michelin and Campsa as a small place.

[docsconz]

This is a quite different topic but I am too shy to start another thread.

I am a big fan of lamb. I will stay in Segovia for two days on my trip and plan to stop by at Aranda de Duero for lunch on the drive from Madrid to Bilbao. But I found that most Michelin starred places in Basque country also serve roast lamb and many have it on the tasting manu.  How does the roast lamb at those Michelin starred places compared to the roasting houses in Sepulveda and Aranda de Duero. Should I resist the temptation of lamb when I am in Bilbao and San Sebastian to leave room for seafood.

any suggestions on dining choices near the city Segovia are welcome. I heard about ''Tanin" in Sepulveda, and will plan a lunch there. Aranda de Duero seems to have endless choices in Michelin and Campsa as a small place.

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Why not compare the styles yourself and let us know what you think?

[Rogelio]

This is a quite different topic but I am too shy to start another thread.

I am a big fan of lamb. I will stay in Segovia for two days on my trip and plan to stop by at Aranda de Duero for lunch on the drive from Madrid to Bilbao. But I found that most Michelin starred places in Basque country also serve roast lamb and many have it on the tasting manu.  How does the roast lamb at those Michelin starred places compared to the roasting houses in Sepulveda and Aranda de Duero. Should I resist the temptation of lamb when I am in Bilbao and San Sebastian to leave room for seafood.

any suggestions on dining choices near the city Segovia are welcome. I heard about ''Tanin" in Sepulveda, and will plan a lunch there. Aranda de Duero seems to have endless choices in Michelin and Campsa as a small place.

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Lamb needs to be feeded in dry areas, that's why lamb from Castilla is better than somewhere else. And that's where it's best cooked. We could discuss if it's better in Avila, Segovia or Burgos. But the basque country is not a lamb destination. So safe place for the seafood and why not, red meat.

Re: Lamb temples, my favourites are Mannix in Campaspero (Valladolid), Nazareno in Roa (Burgos/Aranda surroundings) and Tinin in Sepúlveda (Segovia). Other highlights are Casa Cesar in Quintadueñas (Burgos), El Pastor and El Ciprés in Aranda (Burgos) and La Acreditada Fonda Los Caracoles in Lerma (Burgos).