TRIO QUESTIONS

[chefg]

g,

I know that a great deal of attention is paid to the dessert courses of your menus. To expand on Chazzy's question, how would you describe the collaboration between Paula and yourself, in general, with regard to the sweet-savory transition and how the final courses play out, and more specifically, the conceptualization of the dishes themselves?

With regard to your cooking in general, a constant need for experimentation and rethinking of old ideas must play a huge role. Are there any generalizations you can make about the progress of a dish from concept through to reality? The discovery process?

You've made statements about where our cuisine is headed, and rethinking the pathways of sourcing ingredients and new cooking methods. How might the organization of the kitchen itself change with the advent of a new cuisine, new equipment, new cooking methods? Will there be any use for the Ecoffier model of a kitchen brigade in the near future? Are there already hints toward this direction in your own kitchen?

Chef Haney was the only member of the kitchen team that stayed during the transition from Chef McClain to the current chef. The two have grown stylistically together and formed a seamless partnership in the voice of the food served at the restaurant. Total creative freedom is given to Chef Haney and she executes the desserts within the given style of the cuisine served by the restaurant. Dish concepualization is primarily handled by Chef Haney with some ideas given in the creative thinktank of the brigade. As mentioned in an earlier post, every member of the staff is very clear as to the food style and goals we are trying to reach with the cuisne. This makes the transition seemless when creating long tasting menus.

With regard to the discovery process I would reiterate the importance of the brigade and it's tireless commitment to the process itself. Once the commitment is made to do highly creative food a huge challenge is placed on the kitchen. The thought processes are longer, more detailed and sometimes fail as you enter unfamiliar territory. Unfortunatly there are generalization to the process except it is our goal to create. Dishes materialize from tools, ie: zyliss grater in the Grated Point Reyes Blue Cheese dried banana pudding, mint, white chocolate, concentrating on popcorn after an old air popper was brought into the kitchen, to produce the amuse Caramel Popcorn, from techniques such as stabilizing the state of a liquid to make it possile to be contained by pasta, sugar or other wrapping as in the Black Truffle Explosion from reinvention like the Bubble Tea sencha, steelhead roe, cucumber, dill a play on the Asian tapioca drink, from specific ingredients like the Bavarios of Golden Trout Roe yuzu, ginger, mango using the amazing hand made roe from native Michigan Brook Trout which unaminously drew us to those three ingredients.

The Brigade as we know it now will slowly become obsolete with the introduction of the new cuisine. The techniques from savory and sweet and vise versa become blurred as sugar and ice creams become evident in savory applications, while savory components become more used in sweet dishes. The handling of these interchangable techniques and ingredients brings a more universal cook.No longer will there be tasks handled by "specialists" in the kitchen. The tasks of the entire kitchen will become more homogenized as techniques and ingredients are spread over the repetoire.

[RyneSchraw]

from specific ingredients like the Bavarios of Golden Trout Roe     yuzu, ginger, mango using the amazing hand made roe from native Michigan Brook Trout which unaminously drew us to those three ingredients.

chefg - Thanks for mentioning this dish, I had it once last year and could not recall what it consisted of besides roe and ginger. What exactly, is the significance of Michigan Brook Trout...the golden roe comes from one sole purveyor, correct? (I vaguely remember a story of how this type of fish roe came about by accident, but would be grateful to hear the details.)

On the topic of purveyors, this seems like a good example of one of the smaller farms Trio deal with. How does the kitchen go about researching and eventually forming a relationship with various purveyors, mainly in regards to the smaller ones (such as Animal Farms in Vermont)? Is this done solely by the chef? Do you find Trio using the same places as other high-end restaurants (French Laundry seems kinda obvious), but I mean more in general? Besides a higher quality of product, does the chef find other advantages in the seemingly more personal relationship between a smaller purveyor and the kitchen? Perhaps a closer knowledge of the food, directly from someone who raises it for a living?

Thanks...ryne

Edited February 11, 2003 by RyneSchraw (log)

[cabrales]

16. Lengthier Menus Out of curiosity, have you prepared lengthier menus than the Tour de Force? If so, in what context were they assembled?

[Steve Plotnicki]

Yes ChefG, Cabrales and I are going to come to Trio and we want a 40 course menu. In fact, Cabby wanted 60 courses but I talked her down to 40.

[awbrig]

16. Lengthier Menus Out of curiosity, have you prepared lengthier menus than the Tour de Force? If so, in what context were they assembled?

Give the guy a break. 22 courses is not enough for you?

[cabrales]

awbrig -- I'm not saying I would request more courses than in the Tour de Force when I visit -- although that *possibility* was the motivating force behind Question 16. I was curious whether diners have requested more, or whether regular customers may receive extra courses as part of the Tour de Force. I am a very greedy diner, you know.

Edited February 11, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[201]

This may be incredibly obvious to some, but is "chefg" Chef Grant from Trio, or does this sort of go without saying? :/

ChefG, did this question slip by you? I'm sorry it's not in multiple parts, but I am really curious and I think a little disclosure/confirmation would be nice for everyone reading along at home.

IF ANYONE HAS QUESTIONS ABOUT TRIO'S FOOD ASK ME.

I guess I could rephrase the question as:

1.a. Is the creator of Trio's food, Chef Grant Achatz, posting on eGullet.com with the user name 'chefg'?

1.b. Would contributing to such a site raise/lower the amount of time Chef Achatz dedicates to Trio's menu?

2. Does Trio's creative approach to cuisine also manifest itself in accomodating diners who choose not to imbibe alcohol (i.e. through creative juice presentations perhaps)?

[cabrales]

chefg -- Please don't feel like you have to respond to all of my questions or those of others, if you would prefer not doing so.

[pixelchef]

I think we're giving him an eGullet Tour de Force of questions. :O

[cabrales]

For chefg --

17. Note-Keeping on Recipes Your posts suggest a wonderfully deliberate and methodical approach to analyzing issues. Is that consistent with Chef Achatz's approach to the creation of new dishes? For example, are notes kept by the chef or other cuisiniers on food combinations experimented with in the past? When a taste combination is deemed inappropriate, are the reasons for that conclusion documented somewhere for future reference? (And have you reviewed the two published notebooks of Michel Bras?)

18. Winemaker Experience The Trio website contains the following statement: "While in Napa, Achatz also spent a year as assistant winemaker at the La Jota Vineyards." How has a heightened sensitivity to wine aided Chef Achatz in his creation of dishes, apart from (a) potential alertness to the aromas (to be clear, smell sensations) of a dish (e.g., rosemary vapour), and (b) facilitating his participation in the pairing of dishes and wine?

Has the wine experience led the chef to consider the utilization of "blended"/more complex aromas for his dishes? Has the experience caused the chef to give added attention to the "finish" of a dish?

How active is Chef Achatz in the pairing of food and wine at Trio? What are some of the "special bottles" (not necessarily in terms of price) on the wine list of Trio, from the perspective of the restaurant?

19. Kitchen Table The Trio website notes: "KITCHEN TABLE: A behind-the-scenes table for four is available for reservation ($125/$175)" Could you (or members who have had a meal at the kitchen table) describe whether the menu is a surprise menu, and discuss other relevant aspects of the kitchen table experience? Do you perceive any disadvantages to being seated at the kitchen table?

[it aint easy being cheesy]

Chefg,

Was just curious to your position on issues which are in the food community as a whole. You obviously have no issues using molecular science, mechanical, chemical, and natural means to manipulate the dining experience. I was curious to how you feel regarding the same issues in Produce, Meat, Aquaculture, etc. etc. Does gene splicing concern you? What about Hydroponic Farming versus Traditional Farming and ranching. In terms of the Brigade System being a thing of the past what type of system do you propose? Will cooks have a traditional growth curve of garde manger, entremetier, saucier, poissonier, etc.? Do you feel that as boundries continue to get pushed a "real Pizza" will lose its place? Since you talk about the "future" of cuisine and food do you feel that if the boundries continue to get pushed there will be any negative ramifications? At what point does a kitchen become a labratory? Or will steel and flame become a thing of the past also.

I myself an intrigued by what is done at Trio because it forces and raises so many questions. I just wonder if you have any answers or if it is just a very creative and interesting novelty? If it is the future then what do you see as your role as Chef to keep things from becoming to blurred. Or is blurred your goal?

[CathyL]

This may be incredibly obvious to some, but is "chefg" Chef Grant from Trio, or does this sort of go without saying? :/

ChefG, did this question slip by you? I'm sorry it's not in multiple parts, but I am really curious and I think a little disclosure/confirmation would be nice for everyone reading along at home.

Perhaps chefg chose not to answer it.

[chefg]

11b. What are the restaurants in Europe that appeal to you?  Do you consider dining in Europe significant to the cuisine of which you are a part?  What are your thoughts on the respective cuisine of the Group of Eight in France, if you are comfortable sharing your insights (Veyrat, Gagnaire, Bras, M Troisgros, Passard, Roellinger, Lorain, Chibois)?

Cabrales:

Three Star Restaurants that I have eaten at in Europe:

Arzak

el Bulli

Georges Blanc

Boyer

Enotecca Pincchiori

Berastugie

el Raco Con Fabes

Taillivant

Restaurants that I am familar with that I feel are a part of the movement:

el Bulli

Berastugie

Gagnaire

Veyrat

Bras

Arpege

The Fat Duck

Edited February 17, 2003 by chefg (log)

[chefg]

12.  Desserts  Could you discuss how Chef Achatz coordinates his dishes with those of his pastry chef?  Is the integrating approach explicitly discussed, or more informally coordinated?

Cabrales:

Answered in another post above.

[chefg]

[13. Role of Humor  The composition and naming of certain Trio dishes may suggest elements of humor (e.g., the Caramel Popcorn, Pizza and Bloody Mary dishes).  When you have a chance, could you discuss how you see the role of humor in dishes at the restaurant?

Trio feels the dinning experience is exactly that, an experience. As I said before guests are not in the restaurant because they are hungry. Who doesn't like to laugh? When we see guests confronted with an item that is not identifiable by it's name, but tastes of the original, they smile or laugh, sometimes while shaking their head. It is entertaining, thought provoking, and fun. It adds to the overall experience. With the level of dinning continually rising, and the demand for services rendered in relation to cost more crucial in today's market, people gravitate towards things that are multifulfilling. If Trio can satiate and entertain a guest for 4 hours or longer it is in the minority as far as restaurants go. This is appealing to most, but not to all. While many high level restaurants in this country turn towards comfort style foods in a time of security, we push the other way. Trio wants people to be so involved in the meal, both from a phyical and mental state, that all focus is devoted to the experience at hand not the troubles of the world. It's another way to achieve the same goal.

From the kitchen perspective we choose to highlight certain flavors that compose a well known dish carefully. A menu with too many "quotes" and twisted familar food would be boring and campy.

[chefg]

chefg --

7a. Have you reviewed the writings of Herve This, H McGee (spelling)?  I recently noticed that This has a surprising number of published small books in French.

I have read McGee but not Herve. I have a problem with these books to a certain degree. We find it easier to formulate a question or problem first, and than research the solution. Often times the writtings are not specific enough to help us. For example: We began recently exploring caramelization, of all foodstuffs but primarily dairy. We wanted to determine if the browning of sugars could be accomplished at low temperatures. In the past a chef would associate caramelization with a hot pan or a salamander. We have found that many things will brown under consistant low temperature, if it applied for long periods of time. Taking a block of mozzarella cheese and sous-vide cooking it for 22 hours at 185 degrees produced a dark brown and highly flavorful cheese reminicent to the top of a pizza. These writtings can help us in some ways by provoking questions and even answering some, but the most effective way for the Trio team is confrontation of the goal and working backwards. We have also started relationships with food scientists in the area, this is new, but we are excited at the possibilities.

[chefg]

[chefg - Thanks for mentioning this dish, I had it once last year and could not recall what it consisted of besides roe and ginger.  What exactly, is the significance of Michigan Brook Trout...the golden roe comes from one sole purveyor, correct?  (I vaguely remember a story of how this type of fish roe came about by accident, but would be grateful to hear the details.)

The roe is produced by a freind of mine and the first chef I worked for. He harvests the Trout from a natural spring fed body of water in central Michigan. The fish are not fed the typical diet of "pellets" laced with carotoniods, because the water is a thriving ecosystem the fish have enough natural food to sustain them. Crayfish and insects make up their diet and it shows in the flesh of these beautiful fish. The processing takes place at the water, so freshness is priority. The roe is rinsed with spring water and cured in sea salt, hand sieved and never frozen( a common practice) this is the most amazing roe I have ever seen. It is fresh and clean in the mouth with light popping of the eggs and no bitterness. The salinity is kept at a minimum, therefore it becomes very seasonal, due to reduced shelf life. It is truely one the greatest products we use at Trio

[chefg]

[On the topic of purveyors, this seems like a good example of one of the smaller farms Trio deal with.  How does the kitchen go about researching and eventually forming a relationship with various purveyors, mainly in regards to the smaller ones (such as Animal Farms in Vermont)?  Is this done solely by the chef?  Do you find Trio using the same places as other high-end restaurants (French Laundry seems kinda obvious), but I mean more in general?  Besides a higher quality of product, does the chef find other advantages in the seemingly more personal relationship between a smaller purveyor and the kitchen?  Perhaps a closer knowledge of the food, directly from someone who raises it for a living?

Thanks...ryne

Most of the small farms we deal with come from recommendations of other chefs. The butter from Animal Farm came by the way of Thomas, it is wonderful. 100 % organic, produced like you said, by a woman who owns four cows. It is a cultured butter so it does have a certain tang that is stylisticly different than most french butters. In general most "small farmers" produce limited quanities of their products and most of the time they are very expensive due to labor and special care taken. Both of these factors make their products available to only a certain few due to quanity and price. This keeps the circle tight. There are advantages to the small purveyor relationship. Chances are if you are working with a lamber, and you want an artisan butter he will know someone, the circle of farmers and wild crafters is very similar to the circles of chefs. Of course the better your understanding of the product you are dealing with the more likely you will manipulate it in creative, sound ways. When I talk to the lamber he may inspire a dish based on what the lamb feed on, or how they live. He may also set me off on a different or speciality cut that is not commonly produced for the average market. Since he takes the animals down himself it's not an issue to get lamb kidneys, sweetbreads or hearts which would never be available otherwise. Another benefit is custom growing, through conversations with growers different specs or techniques will be talked about and soon the product you get from that supplier will be specific to you.

[cookperrync]

Thank you for taking this time to chat. I am a young chef and have always been intrigued by the creative process that happens in the kitchen. Could you talk a little about how you make time to experiement with foods and combinations, and just how you set out creating dishes for Trio? I am also curious about reluctance from the owners of Trio to try "new" things and how you handled those issues - if they existed. Again...thank you for your time and I hope this continues...

Perry

[cabrales]

... We have also started relationships with food scientists in the area, this is new, but we are excited at the possibilities.

chefg --

7aa. As you may know, the synergies from working with food scientists has also been tapped by chefs like Gagnaire (primarily H This). How did the Trio team identify the appropriate food scientists, and how significant a criterion was appreciation of cuisine/cooking techniques in your consideration of which scientists you wanted to pair with? If there is more than one scientist, do the scientists involved specialize in different areas? (As always, please do not respond to this question if you are uncomfortable, including as a result of any concerns the scientists may have)

[chefg]

I've agreed with the site administrators that we will do a formal Q&A session in weeks to come. They suggest I stop answering questions, and I ask that you hold your questions until the Q&A begins. I appreciate all of the thoughtful inquires thus far and I am excited to continue.

Best,

Grant Achatz

Chef/Partner

Trio Restaurant