Portable Commercial Induction Burners for Household Use

[palo]

To clarify, I'm referring to those that require 220 volts as opposed to regular household current and are single burner in style.

I have a Max Burton 6530 ($450 @ Amazon.ca) and a couple of standard household current portables (~$75).

My impressions are that comparing the two types is similar to comparing a domestic gas range to a commercial restaurant stove in terms of performance and I would add that a commercial induction burner is closer to a restaurant gas stove than it is to a domestic gas stove.

Is it worth the extra cost?

Again, IMO, I feel I'm getting the best single burner performance without getting into a commercial gas stove. Boiling water for pasta, stir-frying, sauteing and pre-heating a grill pan are all performed faster and better. I use the two smaller standard ones for dishes that don't require that degree of heat.

Speaking of extra cost, which may make the whole choice untenable is the necessity of getting 220 volts to your burner. I was fortunate in having sufficient electrical skills and general "handiness" to accomplish this for less than $50 in materials.

If you are unsure of your abilities DO NOT attempt this!!! And of course have your work inspected before making final connections.

If you will be having an electrician perform this work for you might find it costing as much or more than the actual appliance depending on the complexity of the job.

So, is anyone else using a 220 volt portable induction burner in a domestic setting? How's it working for you? Would you it again?

Is anyone else contemplating this decision?

p

[Deryn]

Exactly how 'portable' would a 220v 'commercial' induction burner be for the average homeowner who has to install a single dedicated plug to be able to use it at all?

 

And, what is the difference in heating power, etc. between a 220v portable burner and a burner on a 220v induction (non-portable) stove/cooktop? If there is little to no difference, and the portable 220v unit is not really 'portable' any more due to lack of places one can plug it in, unless one has a space issue and cannot even install a 2 burner in-countertop unit, why buy a 220v portable burner that is not portable anyway (and costs not that much less but only delivers a single burner)?

Edited April 1, 2015 by Deryn (log)

[palo]

@Deryn: Are you mad at me?

 

My use of the word "portable" was to set it apart from a "cooktop". However, as its size is about the same as one using standard household current, it actually is portable as you can use it wherever you have access to the appropiate power.

 

I have a GE Profile 4 burner gas cooktop. Using the smaller induction burners, I found that I preferred induction cooking to cooking with gas. The big problem was power, those small units @1800 watts could not compete with gas in terms of heating power. I decided to look at alternatives. Induction cooktops were over $1500, I looked at getting the best I could as cheaply as possible. There was also the problem of the existing gas cooktop as I was loathe to permanently replace.

 

I'm not suggesting this route is for everyone, but after evaluating different scenarios, this worked for me.

 

p

[Deryn]

Huh? Why would I be mad at you? I was merely asking what seemed to me to be a valid question.

 

I cannot compare a gas stove burner to an induction burner since I do not have the former and my induction burners are both 'portable' 120v. I have cooked with gas however and I would still pick a 120v 'portable' induction burner every time (unless I wanted to do some showy flambé-ing). I can compare either of my portable 120v burners (one of which cost $59 and the other cost well over $250 and is labelled 'professional' - whatever that means) to my electric cooktop and they both beat the electric cooktop by a mile (and a half) in every respect.

Edited April 1, 2015 by Deryn (log)

[radtek]

I guess matching the plug would be first concern for a DIY'er.

 

Currently I'd have to put mine in the laundry room where there is a 220 dryer outlet. The rest of the house is gas and 110. Looking to put a 220 plug in the kitchen area for an electric stove and a burner as you describe.

 

If the performance is as you describe my interest is piqued indeed as I will have a use for this type of burner. I have the confidence to rewire a plug.

[palo]

@Deryn, sorry my over sensitivity, and my doctor says Wednesdays are my good days

 

I couldn't agree with you more regarding your preference for induction over an electric stove/cooktop.

 

@radtek, make sure you check out the burner plug you are considering before you wire up a socket. My burner's plug is nothing like a dryer nor like a stove plug. My induction burner requires a 3 prong socket whereas dryers and stoves require a 4 prong socket and I believe even those are different from each other. I'm sure you know what you're doing or will find out before you start, just another thing to consider is that if you are bringing 220 to one area and then splitting off for your stove and and burner make sure you add up the total watts/amps and use the appropiate wire and fusing, you'd be surprised at what code requires.

 

Sorry to get off on a technical tangent, but safety is really important. Remember the forum title, "Kitchen Consumer", does not refer to an electrical fire in a kitchen wall.

 

p

[radtek]

Thanks palo. 

 

I'm probably going to get the house rewired in the next couple years. Original aluminum wiring with 60 amp glass fuse service box. So "The Plan" is to place a couple 220 plugs (outlets- edit) for this very purpose in the kitchen- each with their own circuit and breaker.

Edited April 2, 2015 by radtek (log)

[btbyrd]

As far as the 1800W, 120V models go, the Vollrath Mirage Pro seems to be at the top of the game. It has a large induction surface (much bigger than the cheapo-portable ones) and 100 power settings, which is crucial for control. Most inexpensive burners only have 10 or so settings, and it's sometimes impossible to dial in a simmer. The difference between hot water, a simmer, and a boil is relatively small and I was never able to get the right result from my inexpensive Max Burton unit. It also can maintain very precise low temperatures (around 85F) so it seems great for chocolate work. I wish it wasn't $450, but it appears to be worth the premium if you have the money for it.

Edited April 2, 2015 by btbyrd (log)