Duck Pressing Revival

[Anna N]

A Toronto restaurant aims to revive this old French custom:

http://www.citynews.ca/2014/03/16/toronto-restaurant-revives-old-french-practice-of-pressing-ducks/

[Chris Hennes]

Interesting: I was unfamiliar with the unusual way ducks used to be killed when used in this dish. The article notes

 

But then came an unexpected revival. In 2008 Daniel Boulud’s great kitchen team found a way to make the dish at his eponymous Manhattan restaurant with a legally bled duck marinated in port and red currant jelly, and it promptly topped GQ’s list of best dishes of the year.

Does anyone know the details of Boulud's preparation?

[chefmd]

I have my eyes on duck press at Sur la Table for years.  2K price tag is ridiculous though.

[rotuts]

its said to be in this book:

 

 

Daniel: My French Cuisine

 

Its on display at my local lib.   Ill take a look if I can remember.

[lesliec]

I think the slaughter method may have some translation issues.  I don't remember what it is in the original French, but I've seen it rendered as 'strangled', rather than the linked article's 'suffocated'.

 

As far as I can see (having not molested any ducks myself, that I can recall), if the purpose is to retain the blood any method which doesn't involve putting holes in the duck would be fine.  This probably - I'm guessing - extends as far as electric shock, or a simple whack on the head.  Or should that be a quack on the head?

 

I had La Tour d'Argent's celebrated duck a couple of years ago.  Tasty, certainly.  Tender?  Far from it.  I can do much better at home.  But the place itself is stunning.

[rotuts]

Ive borrowed the book.  Its impressive.  are the Rx's in it full and complete? cant say.   the last high-end rest. book Ive cooked from was "Happy in the Kitchen"  those Rx's were complete.   Michel Richard's the real deal.  Happy guy too.  Batali's : not so much

 

'Canard a la Presse"  pp 294 - 297.  a bit of history, nice pics.  no full  Rx.

 

'Until now, the only 'prep' in preparing D a l P was acquiring the bird'  its juices were the sauce.  a bit of veal stock, splash of Cognac, knob of butter.'

 

D' takes the Rx from  the Robertson's   circa 1900 where the press went from the 21 Club.

 

Robertson Rx includes a self evident marinade.  Port, jar of red current jelly, Orange and lemon zest.  a lot of pepper.  duck submerged until plump.

 

at D's  this is vacuum bagged.  skin is slit.    no mention of how the duck is cooked, but it seems to be cooked  ( breast ) iin a pan and finished in the oven.

 

"when the carcass is now pressed, the liquid is deep and dark.  It produces a sauce so unusual than on tasting it, I finally understood that the duck is almost immaterial. The dish is what you coat it with. What matters is the sauce."

 

QED

 

no other information.  not on the duck used, cook times for the carcass etc.  nice pics though.

 

bet this dish is pretty $$$$.  bet also the duck breast delivered sur la plate is perfect in every way.

 

Who's going to D's and reporting back ?

 

Edited March 17, 2014 by rotuts (log)

[rotuts]

BTW  this dish does not seem to be on the Menu

 

http://danielnyc.com/menu

 

at least the internet one.  love to know its cost.  probably for two.