Pâte à choux variety

[jmacnaughtan]

There's been a lot of discussion about pâte à choux technique recently. It's a tricky dough, to be sure.

But what are you doing with it? Does everyone just make the traditional éclairs and cream puffs, or are there more adventurous types making glands, salambos or the elusive divorce? Is nobody game enough for the croquembouche?

(Sorry for the French links, I couldn't find anything in English)

For my two centimes, here's an old favorite: the Paris Brest (originally posted here). Makes a great birthday cake.

Bon appétit.

[AnnieWilliams]

I personally am making all kinds of stuff. Unfortunately I haven't had a reason to make a croq, but I would love to! I made eclairs a few months ago and the things looked shabby. I was recently asked to provide some French desserts for a luncheon in May. It's kind of a big deal because of who will be there, and the hostess wanted to make a good impression by providing something "different." A few of the desserts I had in mind called for choux (I had considered religieuse since they are definitely different and she is going for more individual desserts). But I knew the way that my choux had been baking would make rough looking pastries. I really like Laduree's religieuses, because the choux looks perfect. I am not sure if they are baking theirs with the cookie disk on top or not. That was suggested to me in another thread. I would also love to try the salambos and the Paris Brest. If you have any suggestions I would love to hear them.

Thanks!

[jmacnaughtan]

I don't think they use the cookie dough on top, but judging by the sheer quantity of choux they make, they'll be using a machine to pipe them. Réligieuses are a great dessert, but I find the biggest problem is size control.

Nothing worse than a massive body and a tiny head.

My next choux project is the Saint-Honoré. I've been eyeing the recipe in the Pierre Hermé book for weeks...

[AnnieWilliams]

Yes I would agree with you on the machine. Maybe that's how they get outside so smooth. Mine are always lumpy and bumpy and craggy looking, and there is probably no way I could actually stack them without them leaning.

I have also wanted to try a St. Honore. There is so much I would like to try, but not enough time to do it all!

Something I found interesting-I purchased the Ladure Sucre book (the one with the gilded pages and the suede cover) and one of the chef's notes said that for one of the recipes (I can't remember exactly which pastry but it was choux filled with creme patissiere), you should fill it the night before so a "positive reaction" takes place between the filling and the pastry. I found this interesting because I always heard that you shouldn't fill until the last minute so that the choux stays crisp. Obviously filling them overnight would soften the choux a bit. I always do this anyway because I don't have time to fill and glaze pastry at the last minute, so my choux is never crisp. What are your thoughts on that?

Which Pierre Herme book do you have? I am adding to my wish list on Amazon since my birthday is at the end of the month.

Edited February 2, 2013 by AnnieWilliams (log)

[jmacnaughtan]

It's the "Pastries" one I think. Mine's the French version, called "Rêves de Pâtissier" and the cover's different, but I think it's the same book.

I think with the choux buns, you''ll never have the best of both worlds. If you wait until the last minute to fill it, you'll have a crisp bun but the filling will be too liquid, but doing it beforehand leaves you with softer pastry. I've found that the pastry dough you put on top of the choux stays crisp a little longer, and ensures that you have relatively even choux. The trick is rolling it thin enough though...

I've been looking at the Ladurée book. Is it worth buying? I'd like to know the recipe for their rose Saint Honoré. I'm tempted when I walk past the boutiques, but spending upwards of 40€ for a cake is a little much.

[Fernwood]

There's been a lot of discussion about pâte à choux technique recently. It's a tricky dough, to be sure.

But what are you doing with it? Does everyone just make the traditional éclairs and cream puffs, or are there more adventurous types making glands, salambos or the elusive divorce? Is nobody game enough for the croquembouche?

....

Oh, I love seeing all these inventive goodies! My French is good enough for some of the text, but clearly much specific vocabulary is lacking. I followed the link for le divorcé and then moved on to the page for their gland. Who could resist that name? But, not knowing what gland (Fr) actually means, I found the sharp-ended shape and creamy-green color vaguely alarming. Thank you for the Wikipedia link; I feel better now, even if it doesn't look all that acorn-ish to me.

Fern

[Lisa Shock]

I have always found choux to be useful for catering because one can make savory items as well as sweets with it. Obviously there are gougere, but, you can do a lot by rethinking the fat in the dough. Bacon fat, duck fat, chicken fat, brown butter, and more can be used, as well as small amounts of flavor such as smoke or herbs. Then, fillings can be all sorts of savory mousses, bound salads, dips, etc.

[AnnieWilliams]

I have the English version of the Laduree book, which I bought from bookdepository.com. I have not tried any recipes from the book, but I have seen on a few blogs where people have tried the vanilla eclairs or one of their macaron varieties and liked them a lot.

It is definitely more of a coffee table book than anything. People are complaining on Amazon about its impracticality in the kitchen, but you know ahead of time that it has gilded pages and a suede cover so I don't see what the big deal is. Definitely photocopy or just hand copy the recipes from the book. That way it won't get damaged if you tend to splash around in the kitchen a bit like me.

In that other thread I started, one of the links someone posted shows a comparison of the cookie-topped choux and regular choux. The cookie-topped choux rose higher and more hollow, and it definitely looked better/smoother after it was baked. Now I just have to carve out a Saturday and experiment!

[janeer]

I must confess I don't understand the notion that pate a choux is tricky. It 's the first thing you're taught to make in pastry--it's basic.

Anyway, I recommend Lenotre's book..

[AnnieWilliams]

I haven't found it to be tricky-just tricky to get it to not be ugly! Ha!

[jmacnaughtan]

I haven't found it to be tricky-just tricky to get it to not be ugly! Ha!

How true. Making the dough is easy, making an eclair that doesn't look like a dog's chew toy is not.

My cream puffs and chouquettes are pretty, my eclairs and paris-brests... The less said the better.

[furzzy]

We had a gathering recently that was similar to the old "cocktail party" -- lots of hors d'oeuvres, canapes, appetizers, etc. We served 3 kinds of Mini-sandwiches (about 1-3/4" diameters): buns made from baguette dough to get that crinkly crust & soft inside filled with rare roast beef & horseradish sauce, tiny biscuits with tavern ham & whole grain mustard, and choux puffs filled with chicken salad.

Everyone raved. And although we had lots of food left over (I ALWAYS make too much), these ran out early.

Our daughter was married in France, and if I can find a digital pic of her croquenbouche wedding swan I'll post it here.