Cologne

[basquecook]

I will be heading to Cologne shortly and am really looking for some nice food. I am not looking for a three star Michelin Experience but, more looking for local and exciting food.

Also, any advice as to Breweries. I would like to go on a few tours and check out some really cool beer spots.

Thanks.

[Kerry Beal]

I've spent 3 hours of my life in Cologne - I spent it with Torsten (schneich on eG) and along with some bakery supply places we checked out his patisserie

Toertchen Toertchen. Well worth a visit if you want some sweet stuff. He makes excellent chocolates and his fondant is the best.

My visit to his shop.

The opinion

of another eG'er who did a stage with him.

[IrishAdventurer]

I spent a few days in Cologne in November 2011, but was mainly interested in beer, not food. Certainly, there are plenty of entries in the Michelin guide (not just starred places) for Cologne, but I'm not sure there are any must-see or must-eat specialities. A good approach would be to eat in the different breweries/brew pubs as they offer pretty decent and traditional food. The other advantage of that approach is that you can't move in Cologne without seeing another brewery. If you're based in Germany, or visit there a lot, I'd suggest picking up the Good Beer Guide for Germany, as you'll often find somewhere to eat or drink (in the middle of nowhere) that you won't find in guidebooks. They also have separate city guide sections for the major cities in Germany, including Cologne.

One word of warning: IMO, Kolsch, the beer that is brewed in Cologne (it can only be brewed there, and is usually the only style of beer that the breweries produce) is nothing special, and it's fairly similar no matter where you drink it. I'm not saying it doesn't vary, but don't expect (for example) the variety that you would get if you compare and contrast the breweries in Munich. On the plus side, it's neither too fizzy, heavy, or hoppy, so it's pretty approachable for non-beer drinkers, and it's served in small pipe-like glasses (200 millilitres) so if you don't like it, you won't be stuck with a gigantic jug full of it.

I'm not sure if tours are offered (I can give you some brewery names) and you can check, and I'll also check which places we preferred in terms of the food and ambience (since the beer didn't vary hugely). Another bonus is that Cologne is pretty compact, so with some planning and determination, you could easily check out 4 or 5 places in a day, and eat wherever you are hungry or think looks good. We managed 9 in a day...I'll check and get back to you.

[Kerala]

We're off to Cologne in October. Just me and Mrs K for four days. Does anyone have any recommendations-food, arts, music, whatever? The only thing I've picked out so far is the Kathe Kollwitz museum. Can't wait!

Edited August 2, 2022 by Kerala (log)

[liuzhou]

I haven't been in Cologne since 1967, so no information to share, but I'm looking forward to reading about your experience.

[mgaretz]

On 8/1/2022 at 5:33 PM, Kerala said:

We're off to Cologne in October. Just me and Mrs K for four days. Does anyone have any recommendations-food, arts, music, whatever? The only thing I've picked out so far is the Kathe Kollwitz museum. Can't wait!

 

Do not miss Früh.  Great Kolsch and good food.

[Kerala]

I just found this,

 

Also available on Amazon Prime, where I'm watching it. For future reference if someone is searching...

[JoNorvelleWalker]

3 hours ago, Kerala said:

I just found this,

 

Also available on Amazon Prime, where I'm watching it. For future reference if someone is searching...

 

The video is not available to me "in your country".  I have Prime, how do I find it?

 

 

[Kerala]

P

7 hours ago, JoNorvelleWalker said:

 

The video is not available to me "in your country".  I have Prime, how do I find it?

 

 

I searched for Anthony Bourdain. Its Parts Unknown, series 7, episode 6. It came up as available on FreeVee, viewable with ads, but when i clicked, it streamed without any adverts.

[Kerala]

A beautiful evening here in Koln.

A very late lunch, Himmel und Aad.

Black pudding, apple sauce, potato mash, fried onions. Bourdain's recommendation.

They keep bringing the Kolsch beer in little 200ml glasses until you do this. Another of Tony's top tips. Thanks Tony!

Fruh am Dom is an interesting place to eat and drink, for sure. Bourdain came here, but @mgaretztip was spot-on! Thanks to @IrishAdventurer

too, who sadly doesn't hang around here anymore.

Edited October 9, 2022 by Kerala
Typos and credits (log)

[Kerala]

Authentic German eating experience includes

Doner kebab at a Turkish kebab place. The bread was something unusual, very crispy crust. Lovely.

[Kerala]

We decided to nip out for a nightcap. Mrs K asked for her usual, a Bacardi and Coke. No Bacardi. No rum. To be honest, I couldn't see any spirits. We settled on this:

Aperol spritz for the lady, Kolsch for me. In fact, everyone was drinking Kolsch: men and women, young and old. They did seem well stocked with red wine, but I didn't want to be weird.

Edited October 9, 2022 by Kerala (log)

[Kerala]

I've realised I have a tendency to start eating and drinking before I think of my responsibilities to this Board. But usually, the food I eat, presentation is not the priority!

Edited October 9, 2022 by Kerala (log)

[liuzhou]

I know Fruh am Dom has a bad reputation for its service. How did you find it?

[Duvel]

Nice, @Kerala ! I completely missed you had a tripmto Cologne - very happy you enjoyed it 🤗

 

1 hour ago, liuzhou said:

 

I know Fruh am Dom has a bad reputation for its service. How did you find it?

 

In my experience the service specifically there was ok, however in pretty much all „drinking“ establishments serving Kölsch, the Köbes (Cologne slang for beer waiter) have a kind of rustic, if not rude attitude, that is part of the experience. This fades, the more lines you have on your beer coaster (one for each Kölsch you had), either by them respecting you more, or by you simpy not caring.

 

3 hours ago, Kerala said:

 

[Kerala]

@liuzhou

 

I can see why that reputation exists, but I think it's to do with expectations. @Duvel
's description is one I can recognise.

 

Fruh was busy. There was one waiter serving a large room, including 2 big parties. He was a big, muscular, jovial bald man with a loud voice and a large smile. He looked splendid in his apron secured at the waist wirh a beautifully aged leather belt.

 

Service was slow. The usual raised eyebrow and half-smile wasn't going to bring him scuttling across to our table to see what would make our dining experience more fulfilling and meaningful. Our reluctance to call out "Entschuldigung" because of language shyness didn't help. When Mrs K's order of meatballs was unavailable and she couldn't find another option straight away, he left us again for a while. The beers did keep coming on a fairly regular basis though, and he would chat as he worked. Throughout, he kept the atmosphere jaunty, boistrously engaging with whoever was next.

 

The room we went to for a nightcap was similarly run by a sturdy young Madchen. She offered us the choices from the drinks menu (in German only) and when I hesitated, recommended "the local beer."  Again, the Kolsch arrived regularly.

 

I enjoyed the no nonsense approach. It's in keeping with the function  of these places. The limited, almost identical menu choices suited me fine, and they will suit anyone who likes pork and sauerkraut. I could happily order half the items on these menus, Mrs K could get along with meatballs, and if unavailable as above, Fruh had goulash.

I found the limited drinks choice in keeping with the function of the room. The Aperol  spritzer was advertised on a glossy card with 3 or 4 Aperol drinks. The description of one if these included 3 other ingredients, crossed out with marker pen and replaced with a hand written, "Orange Juice," possibly indicating that only English speakers looked at this card.

 

So that's what the service was like. No nonsense, friendly without being fake friends, certainly not obsequious. No fake refinement. No one offering a waffer-thin mint to complement the meal. A bit slow. Probably need to speak up!

 

Anyway, we're here for a few more days, and it won't all be Brauhauser and Kebab shops.

Edited October 9, 2022 by Kerala (log)

[BonVivant]

Get out of the touristy centre and check out some local atmospheric pubs. My favourite is Päffgen (I have been to their 2 locations). The one not in the centre has a different atmosphere and is full of locals (who occupy all the good seats, of course, or they are reserved for them). Many tourists don't usually go there. Addresses here.

 

Päffgen has a separate, small menu listing a special dish for every day of the week. It should come with the normal menu. Hopefully an employee can help you navigate the menus in German.

 

Make sure you put a beer mat on your half full glass when you know it's your final beer, or a new one will appear as if by magic! (But personally, I wish I could drink them all.)

 

[Kerala]

There is a brilliant German Expressionist collection in Leicester, where I first came across Kathe Kollwitz when I was a student. We went to the Kathe Kollwitz museum in Koln today. What an amazing body of work! The first time I've seen her sculpture in the metal. Here's a work on paper.

"Seed for sowing should not be milled."

 

[Kerala]

After that, Mrs K deserved a treat so off to the Lindt chocolate museum. We nipped into the cafe without going through the exhibition. We ate inside as it was late afternoon and the outside seating area was in shade. It would be lovely outside in the summer, as the Museum sits on a mini island on the Rhine.

Hot chocolate with Apfelkuche and a chocolate mousse. Now, I like a bit of chocolate but rarely indulge as a grown man, saving my calories for excess meat and alcohol. Today I thought, what the heck I'm on holiday! I couldn't finish my portion as it was just too much chocolaty goodness, but Mrs K assures me it was excellent.

 

[Kerala]

Em Kolsche Boor was tonight's Brauhaus.

Mrs K had currywurst, bless her for doing her bit to let me try what i wanted. It was currywurst, what it is, nothing terrible happened. The chips were good. The coleslaw was tasty.

I had pork knuckle, mash, sauerkraut.

It was unsatisfactory. The pork had obviously been cooked then reheated, as it was very tender throughout, the fat and gelatin warm and unctious on the outside but rather cool and gloopy inside. I understand you have to make compromises when running a commercial activity, but this just made me feel a bit unhappy.

Incidentally service was very attentive compared to recent  experience.

[Kerala]

Thanks for the tip, @BonVivant

We went to Paffgen in Friesenstrasse for lunch. On a Monday lunchtime, it was fairly empty.

The usual brusque greeting then slowly warmer interaction with another sturdy waiter in rhe traditional apron and belt. He spoke a bit of English and seemed pleased we ventured a bit of German. They have an English language menu too!

Kasseler, "boiled smoked pork chop" was the description, like boiled gammon, served with sauerkraut. Kolsch, of course, to accompany. Very satisfactory.

Mrs K's fish and chips was about OK. We were not expecting much, and it would be unreasonable to judge this strictly. We were pleased to have the option, and most of it went.

 

[Kerala]

Dinner was at Tapeo & Co, Tripadvisor's #1 tapas restaurant in Koln.

Fabulously crispy and tasty patatas bravas with aioli but no tomato/chilli sauce. Fried fish combo, sadly the fish was not the freshest. Pork in a rosemary and grilled orange sauce that was quite simply stupendous. I've never tasted this before and I can't wait to try it again. Gambas pil pil was fine, it arrived sizzling with plenty of garlic but needed more chilli and paprika. Chicken rellenos stuffed with dates in a white sauce, again excellent.

The service was helpful and smooth. Staff spoke English, and in fact our lovely waitress who had arrived from Argentina only a month ago spoke only a few words of German but perfect English!

Mrs K loved her meal, and her glass of sangria, actually her first alcoholic drink in Cologne. The drink you see in the photo above is a Zombie. I've never had one before. Wow! So delicious!

 

Edited October 11, 2022 by Kerala
London grammar (log)

[Kerala]

Lunch at Schweine Janes in Dusseldorf.

Rotisseried ham knuckle, roast potatoes and sauerkraut. You can see the ham on the rotisserie behind the counter as you walk in. This was accompanied by a couple of tall glasses of Altbier. Dusseldorf seems a few degrees colder than Cologne, so this was welcome.

[Kerala]

Our final lunch in Colone, at maiBeck, on the river near the Dom. 

Bread with lightly salted butter.

Octopus, pumpkins, figs and dessicated (whisper it) corn.

Ravioli with potato, rabbit, chantarelle mushrooms.

Fish which was like sea bass, with mussels, celery, tomatoes.

Pear and parsley sorbet, stewed pear, an oat sponge, pickled zucchini (that's what they called it) - or was that the previous dish?

Mrs K's pork belly. The "crackling" was sprinkled on top like crumble. I was too full by this point to try any, which is remarkable. She finished it all, also remarkable.

Tiramisu for her dessert. Excellent, I hear.

We had a glass of sparkling German wine each, a rose and a white, and I had a glass of dry white local wine during the meal, all very good, reasonably priced.

maiBeck has a Michelin star, and I don't have a great deal of experience with such places. I don't always enjoy them, but I very much enjoyed this.

 

 

Edited October 15, 2022 by Kerala
Software (log)

[kayb]

Lord, but that looks wonderful. The sea bass and the pear sorbet are calling to me.

 

Thanks for taking us along!