Salt Cod Diary

[LindaK]

Shocked at Japanese rice in a Spanish dish?? Nah. Last week I used basmati in my Polish stuffed cabbage...I am impressed with the grocery run in a blizzard, though.

I made a salt cod run last week so I am well stocked up (though nothing is soaked yet) but have yet to decide what to cook next. This is a good default. And I agree, the leftovers are great!

[ddelima]

Cod Fritters or Bolinho de Bacalhau like we say at home. Pretty straight forward recipe, using one mashed potato and one lb of shredded cod to ensure it can be formed in to any shape you want. Added some nutmeg, two egg yolks, two whipped egg whites, parsley and fresh ground pepper.

[janeer]

look delish

[LindaK]

Xilimmns, those are lovely. I've never tried to form my fritters into a consistent shape. Especially when using whipped egg whites (as opposed to beating the whole egg), my mixture is very soft and doesn't hold a shape well. Maybe that means I need to increase the potato?

Thanks for bumping up the topic, I hope you’ll post more of your salt cod recipes from home. New ideas and inspiration would be welcome.

I’ve been sticking with the same lazy recipes the past months—salt cod w/rice and the occasional fritter. I’ve been intending to make the chiles rellenos de bacalao again and use the extra filling for empanadas. So much for good intentions…

If Panaderia Canadiense happens to read this, I’m hoping to see the Easter Fanesca you mentioned earlier here. It looks so interesting—and intimidating.

[bethesdabakers]

I’ve tried to post this recipe at least three times before with photos as beautiful as Xilimmns but they always get eaten before the camera comes out. Happened again last Friday evening when we had friends to dinner.

Accra, based on a recipe from Creole Caribbean Cookery by Kenneth Gardinier.

About 340g salt cod soaked for 24 hours +. Drop into boiling water and turn off the heat. When cool flake and discard the skin. Finely chop about 4 spring onions, 2 cloves garlic, a scotch bonnet and mix with the fish.

Sift about 140g flour and mix in a teaspoon of baking powder, a teaspoon of curry powder, salt and pepper to taste.

When you are ready to cook mix the flour mixture into the fish mixture, stir in enough water to make a paste.

Shallow fry spoonfuls of the mixture until well browned on all sides – mine are ragged compared with Xilimmns perfect shapes.

Serve with Floats, the Trinidadian fried bread. I don’t use commercial yeast so I did a sourdough version which you can find here if you are interested.

If not take a basic white bread recipe but rub butter (or lard) into the flour, about 30% of the flour weight. After your usual fermentation period, scale the dough at 60g, pat out into rounds about 4 inches in diameter. Fry for three minutes on both sides.

They come out like very light puff pastry.

Mick

[ddelima]

Thanks LindaK. I used the two spoons method to form them on this shape. I thought it was more interesting than a ball shaped fritter. Very simple and I hope you can try it next time you make cod fritters.

[LindaK]

Thanks to Xilimmns and bethesdabakers, I've now got a serious fritter craving.

Until then, here's a long overdue update.

On a recent trip to Paris, I picked up a cookbook by chef Yves Camdeborde, Simplement Bistrot. Though it’s a well-worn subject, I’m a complete sucker for bistro cookbooks if they contain anything I haven’t seen before. In this case, more than a few things, including some salt cod ideas.

This cookbook is notable for the utter simplicity of the recipes, sometimes too much so. The two salt cod recipes I’ve tried thus far are good examples.

The soupe de morue, poireaux, and pommes de terre (salt cod, leek, and potato soup) was as basic as one could get—those three ingredients along with some olive oil. No stock, just water. Except for soaking the cod, it comes together in minutes. Next time I’ll cook the leeks a little longer to caramelize them a little, I think the soup would benefit from a bit more complexity. Very satisfying and tasty nonetheless, though maybe not so pretty:

Next, a composed salad, salade de morue au comté et radis (salt cod salad with comté cheese and radish). Comté is a firm but smooth mountain cheese, both nutty and fruity. As simple as it sounds, tossed with a strong mustard and sherry vinegar vinaigrette, garnished with fresh chives. Cheese and salt cod, unusual but it worked. I liked this a lot. And this one is pretty:

[LindaK]

The recipe for last night’s fritters came from Spice: Flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean by local chef Ana Sortun. They differed only a bit from the basic recipe. The recipe for an accompanying red wine sauce looked very good, but too labor intensive for a Monday night, for me at least.

Sortun adds sautéed chopped tomatoes, onion, and garlic to her fritters, along with Aleppo chili pepper. The tomato adds color and sweetness, but also moisture. If you’ve never used Aleppo pepper, it’s one of my favorite spices—slightly smoky and sweet, mild heat. Another technique that was new to me: Sortun reserved some of the milk in which the cod had simmered and used it to moisten the final potato-cod mixture. A good way to extend the flavor, a nice trick to remember.

Following the recipe, I found the final batter to be a little too loose—between the tomatoes, milk, and egg, too much moisture—so added more potato to firm it up a bit. Dipped in flour then beaten egg, they fried up beautifully.

I loved the flavor of the Aleppo pepper. Yet another addition to the list of great salt cod-chili pairings.

[jayt90]

Buying salt cod is never easy, but frankly more difficult now that the Grand Banks are dead, and there are so many different ethnic groups looking for the product. Some packers will sell salted pollack labelled as such, while others will sell pollack as salt cod. I have always liked Sable Island (Nova Scotia) cod packed in bags and refrigerated. It has a rank but enticing smell, and it reconstitutes with a sticky texture. The Sable Island bags with boneless pieces are not as good.

I'm going to get some fillets today, and maybe do the ackee dish, to use up a can in the cupboard.

One comment I haven't seen here is about over re-freshing: each piece of salt cod is different, some refreshing in a day some in three days. If you go too far, the flesh starts to decay, not noticeably, but definitely starting in that direction. To find the optimal time for ending the soak, I taste a piece from the thickest part, or close to the bone if present. It should be very mildly salty, but not bland and flavorless.

I have always wondered how home salting of cod could possibly resemble the real thing, and I scoffed at Keller's notion about salting Pacific cod in the restarant. But maybe there is something to it, so I may try that with a tray of Costco fresh cod.

[LindaK]

One comment I haven't seen here is about over re-freshing: each piece of salt cod is different, some refreshing in a day some in three days. If you go too far, the flesh starts to decay, not noticeably, but definitely starting in that direction. To find the optimal time for ending the soak, I taste a piece from the thickest part, or close to the bone if present. It should be very mildly salty, but not bland and flavorless.

You are so right. I've made the mistake of soaking an especially thick piece for 2 days without tasting, only to be disappointed with bland results. Now I taste after 24 hrs, always.

I have always wondered how home salting of cod could possibly resemble the real thing, and I scoffed at Keller's notion about salting Pacific cod in the restarant. But maybe there is something to it, so I may try that with a tray of Costco fresh cod.

Other folks here have wondered the same thing, but so far none of us have given it a shot. If you try, please let us know the results, it would be fascinating. I doubt if it would taste the same, but it might be worthwhile nonetheless.

[LindaK]

Good lord, here's a new one--salt cod in Chinese food? From Weinoo's review of Mission Chinese Food - 154 Orchard St.

...the salt-cod fried rice, salty from the baccalà and sweet from the lap cheong. I’m sorry local take-out joint – your fried rice ain’t gonna cut it any more.

Who cares if it's traditional, it's on the list for my next visit to NYC.

[jayt90]

Salt Cod and Ackee

I used a half pound of refrigerated Nova Scotia salt cod and a large can of ackee. (A smaller 16 oz can would have worked as well.)

This is the pan view. The prepared cod was simmered for 5 minutes in a spicy tomato base, with Serrano peppers (no Scotch bonnets available, but these canned Mexican chilies were very hot!). The ackee fruit was added and heated separately as it is fragile and can't take stirring or tossing.

Ackee has a taste like canned peas, but with the richness of avocado. The texture is all scrambled egg, and very soft.

The peavine taste and fatty richness go well with the assertive cod flavor.

I was less happy with the tomato base, and particularly the onions, which had not dissolved after a lengthy simmer.

Next time, I am going to try to combine the elements of salt cod, brandade, and ackee, leaving tomatoes and onion out of the picture.

Here is the plate, with jerked beans and Calrose rice.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Many years ago we used to go to dinner at the home of a friend whose grandmother came from the Dordogne. The house specialty was brandade and I watched and even helped him make it many times. It was simply mashed potatoes into which we whipped shredded poached salt cod, raw eggs, minced garlic and olive oil.

Forgotten for decades, I have tried to resurrect the process, but somehow my proportions or process are not as I remember. Does anyone recognize this version of brandade and have more precise instruction than I seem to have retained?

[LindaK]

Margaret, okay, with no other takers, I'll offer some ideas. Most of the time that I see eggs in a list of brandade ingredients, it's when the mixture is cooked again, as with fritters or in a gratin. Usually it's the olive oil and some dairy, such as cream or creme fraiche, adding the fat. With just eggs, I'd err on the side of a high ratio of salt cod so you don't end up with a bland end result. I'd also assume that they're added when the potato mixture is still hot enough to cook them, either tempering the eggs first or mixing madly so you don't end up with scrambled eggs.

jayt90, I must find some ackee. It's a completely new food to me, so I'm very curious about its flavor, esp. in contrast with the salt cod.

[Baron d'Apcher]

Morue à la Catalane.

Gently poached salt cod in a stew of piquillo and carmen peppers, tomatoes, dried chorizo, red onion, sherry vinegar and capers.

[LindaK]

Baron, that is really beautiful--what gorgeous colors. As with your terrines, you have an artist's eye. And I have no doubt that it's delicious. The chorizo, pepper, cod combo is inspired. This one is on my short list for fall.

So after your post I am somewhat embarrassed to add my imperfect installment. With hot weather here, I've been playing with salads and spent some time researching summer salads using salt cod. I see it frequently in winter salads with citrus (which is delicious) but rarely with summer ingredients. Coincidentally I defrosted some salt cod yesterday and threw a salad together tonight based on what I had on hand. It was tasty but not transcendent.

Salt cod salad with roasted pepper, celery, parsley, cilantro, capers, and olives. Too much going on visually with the cherry tomatoes, but hey...

Oddly enough, I think the problem is that I poached the salt cod. The citrus salad mentioned above briefly broils, then soaks, the salt cod, before shredding it into a salad. The result is much more delicate, which really matters when using it in a salad. Lesson learned.

i defrosted too much salt cod, so I'll have to use it up in the next day or two. Maybe fritters? I haven't made them in ages.

[LindaK]

So, what to make when you've defrosted too much salt cod?

Esqueixada (shredded salt cod salad)

In Catalan Cuisine, Coleman Andrews aptly describes this as "catalan ceviche." Versions range from the very simple to the elaborate, but they all have a few things in common: soaked (but not cooked) salt cod, pulled into shreds, and tossed with a piquant oil/vinegar dressing. Like ceviche, it's rich but refreshing. Made here with chopped tomato, chopped olives, herbs, on shredded lettuce. It made for a delicious appetizer on a sultry evening.

Fritters

No special recipe here. To the cod, potato mixture, I threw in a handful of fresh, chopped herbs and some finely minced jalapeno. I've gotten in the habit of separating the eggs, adding the yolk and whipping the egg white before adding it. It's an extra step but quick to do, and it really does lighten the fritters. Served with lemon wedges.

[antdad]

You're all making me salt cod crazy. I quite like this recipe where the fritters are made from a batter.

http://www.fishmarket.ie/recipes2.html

[LindaK]

Antdad, thanks for sharing the video. I've never done a fritter with a batter like that. The chef says it's a Coleman Andrew's recipe, so I took a look in Catalan Cuisine and sure enough the recipe is there. I'll have to give it a try.

Something that I noticed was that his salt cod had the skin still on. I'm jealous--I have never found salt cod with the skin, and I've been looking for some time. There are a few recipes that specifically need the gelatin from the skin to make an emulsion.

Another thing, I am down to my last pound of salt cod. I've been buying mine from an Italian market near my office, so I stopped by after work the other day. All gone! They sell it seasonally only and won't have more until October. Grrr. I know I can get salt cod elsewhere, but their product is very high quality, good for dishes like esqueixada which really demand the best. I'll have to think carefully how to use what I have left. Regular grocery store salt cod should be fine for fritters, though.

[antdad]

Linda, I'll try and put your mind at rest. I think most salt cod is now sold skinless (as it was in that Spanish market) but it looked like that English TV chef who was cooking back home was either using standard cod fillet or some home produced salt cod hence the skin and the liberal seasoning. I may be mistaken about that but the salt cod I buy here in the UK doesn't look like that, it has a definite yellow hue and tends to be firmer.

[Heartsurgeon]

highly recommend reading one or both of the following books:

Salt: A World History

Cod: A Biography of the Fish that Changed the World

both by Mark Kurlansky

you impression of salt cod as a food product will forever be changed.

if your a foodie, you owe it to yourself to read one of these books.

don't expect recipes however!

[LindaK]

Fall weather has arrived in New England, which might explain the serious craving for salt cod I’ve had recently. Last night, I made a gratin de morue from Patricia Wells’ Bistro Cooking—salt cod between layers of potatoes cooked in herb-infused milk, all enriched with egg yolk and crème fraiche, plus a little garlic. Oh my. Worth it alone for the aroma that fills the kitchen as it cooks.

When making a small recipe, I often use these individual gratin dishes. Practical and pretty.

Bon appetit!

[blue_dolphin]

LindaK, your photos and description make that warming fare appealing even on today's 100 deg day!

Can't remember if I've posted this here before but salt cod formed the base of my most hated childhood meal: salt cod in a cream sauce, served over boiled potatoes - white on white on white- with canned peas the only contrast!

I've read along and been tempted by various recipes but this one comes full circle for me wth the potatoes and cream sauce - what an elevation of my old memories! It's way too hot at the moment but this is absolutely going on the list for my mom's next visit.

[janeer]

100F here today too but that looks gorgeous almost makes me miss winter, Linda

[LindaK]

If it was 100F here I would not have made this, that’s for sure.

Blue Dolphin, I’m with you on the “most hated childhood meal.” I remember being served something like that as a kid (without the peas) and it was awful. Overcooked salt cod gets tough and if it sits around too long the cream sauce would become fishy-tasting. Not good.

Which is why, if I have any tips for a simple dish like this, they’d be all about not overcooking the fish or letting it dry out. Since the salt cod is pre-cooked before being added to the gratin, I bring it to a simmer then immediately remove it from the heat, letting it sit for about 5 minutes before draining it and then pulling it into large flakes. It should be barely cooked. It also helps that this particular recipe pre-cooks the potatoes, which helps keep the gratin moist and minimizes oven time.

Other members have recommended salt cod gratins, maybe they have some tips too.