New tastes for a new year

[David A. Goldfarb]

This is a good year for more classic and historic sauces, I think.

Today's project along these lines was a Sauce à la Laguipierre--mushrooms and shallots simmered in white wine and veal stock; spiced with garlic, bay leaf, allspice, and pepper; combined with velouté and the abovementioned "mushroom essence;" thickened with egg yolks and cream; strained and finished with butter and lemon juice. I served it with grilled salmon and white asparagus. Traditionally it might be served with sole or in a dish like Tournados à la Laguipierre, served on toast with foie gras and a slice of truffle. It's kind of interesting that it is versatile enough to go with fish or beef, and easily with chicken or veal. Laguipierre was Napoleon's cook and a mentor to Carême.

One of the things I like about making these sauces is that they make one realize what the mid-century modern convenience foods like canned mushroom soup were replacing. Of course anything made with good homemade stocks is going to be more subtle and complex than industrial soup from a can, but I could totally see this in my grandmothers' (plural--they all made it) tuna-noodle casserole.

[Doodad]

Curing my first ever pork belly for tomorrow braising. Cured in salt, sugar and berbere spices. Yes, I know that is anachronistic, but I love that spice mix. They don't know how good it works with pork.

[Lapin d'Argent]

More fish. Salt cod, for example. And fresh sardines. And mackerel.

We had mackerel for dinner last night -- it was delicious! Very mild, but tasty fillets. We used a really simple recipe from Mark Bittman here.

Best of all 1lb of fresh filets were $6. Add rice and steamed broccoli, and you've got a really good, filling, health, cheap meal.

I will definitely try grilling whole mackerel sometime.

[Lindacakes]

What a sweet topic. New year's food dreams.

Upthread made me vow that this will be the year that I finally make an avocado pie.

I will open and eat the bottle of preserved lemons that I have in the cupboard.

And I promise to make something from salt cod at home.

I've been going to the farmer's market each week and selecting something I've never prepared, and preparing it. Turnips were a revelation, cooked in butter and brown sugar.