Travelogue-It's Derby Day!

[Shelby]

I’ve decided I could definitely live in Hot Springs, Arkansas. What a great town. It’s full of great restaurants, shops and beautiful old buildings. And the people are the nicest people I’ve ever met. And, I don’t say that lightly. The men opened doors for the women. Everyone says “please” and “thank you”. And, you can say whatever you want about someone as long as you follow it up with “bless their heart”

We stayed at the beautiful Arlington Hotel www.arlingtonhotel.com . Again, the people that work there are the nicest, most helpful people you’ll ever meet. When you walk through the spinning door you are met with a lovely bar on your right filled with comfy seats and drinks to quench any thirst. We sat down and had a glass of wine. The ambiance is wonderful.

The room we stayed in had a queen bed with a shower and bath. I was worried that the queen wouldn’t be big enough, but it was perfect. The few complaints we have are small, but I’m going to mention them so that people know. The bathroom is very little, with no counter space available to put toiletries on. The air conditioning is not cold at all. We like to sleep in a 60 degree room. Eventually, I had the thermostat set on 40 but it never got below 70, so that was uncomfortable. The walls are pretty thin. Don’t plan on sleeping all through the night or sleeping late in the morning. And finally, the parking is a bit difficult. We were there during the busiest time of the season, though, as it was the weekend of the Derby at Oaklawn Park. We had a lot of trouble on Saturday night finding a spot, but a lovely couple that was leaving flagged us down and gave us theirs!

It was hard to decide where to eat each night. I researched a lot of places online and a lot of them looked wonderful. Since we had driven so long on Thursday, we decided to eat at the Arlington so that we could just go back to the room and sleep. I started off with a spinach salad that had a balsamic vinegar dressing. It was good. Not great, but good. My husband got the lobster bisque. It came in a small cup with a flaky piece of puff pastry sealing in the soup. YUM. I had a bite and it was wonderful. On the recommendation of the waiter, I got the tuna steak and my husband got the lump crab. My tuna was not good. Dry and overcooked. The lump crab was ok. Not a very big portion, but edible. So, after finishing off our bottle of Riesling wine, we headed up and crashed.

The next morning we were up bright and early to hit the track! Walking into the lobby we saw lots of people with Bloody Mary’s in their hands, sipping, as they studied the Daily Racing Form. I had printed ours off the internet and had studied and made picks on the drive to Hot Springs. Anyway, we were too early to get in to the track, so we decided to walk across the street to the Pancake Shop www.pancakeshop.com . Again, the owners and workers were just the nicest people. We sat at the counter since all of the tables were full. There are no potatoes of any kind on the menu, or any grits. I was looking forward to a grit, but I was out of luck. Overcoming my disappointment, I ordered scrambled eggs with ham and my husband got a ham and cheese omelette. Both came with toast, grape jelly and their homemade apple butter. The apple butter was really good. Not too sweet and just the right tart. The eggs were decent. A little dry. However, the atmosphere made up for that. Everyone was talking about the upcoming races. By the time we left, there was a line out of the door and down the block waiting for a table. Now that I have read the online reviews of the place, I am mad that I didn’t get the freshly squeezed orange juice and the blueberry pancakes. I guess we’ll have to go back soon and rectify that. We walked to our car, loaded up and went off to the races!

Oh. My. Gosh. The. Races. Never in my life have I experienced such a rush. The magnificent horses, as they put their ears back and run their hearts out. . The sound of the galloping hooves as they pound the dirt. The constant spray of mud and dirt that covers the horse and jockey. The sheer strength that they have. Muscles rippling and straining. Jockeys hunched down in their saddles, trying to get at streamlined as possible. The pump of the fist as the first one crosses the finish line. The slump of the shoulder as the last one does the same. Wow. Just wow. I only wish each race would have lasted longer. I can’t get enough. I am addicted. Totally and completely. I thought I was before when I just watched on the simulcast T.V’s, but no. NOW, I am hopelessly lost in the world of horse racing. No twelve step program will save me.

I have to back up here. We actually got into town on Thursday in time for the sixth race. Having never been there before, we weren’t sure where to park. We turned into the lot right next to the front door. A gentleman in a red windbreaker hurried over and asked if we needed help. Clearly, we were in the wrong spot  The parking lot was for people with season parking passes. We asked where we should go, he smiled and said “well, I’mma thinkin’ ‘bout lettin’ youins park right here!” COOL. We thanked him over and over. We hurried in, not knowing how busy it would be. Hardly anyone was there. I suppose because it was a Thursday and it was coooooold. We spotted the Oyster Bar and several places selling the corned beef. We weren’t hungry (dang it) so we went and got our tickets at the reserved seating window and dashed towards our chairs. Spotting our seats, we quickly realized that people were sitting in them. Shoot. Oh well, we wanted to sit outside anyway. We found a spot right away on the concrete stairs directly in front of the finish line. What could be better? Having not done any good on the 6th race, we placed our bets for the 7th. We hit a tri!!!!! $597!!!! What a way to start the weekend!!!

On to Friday. After eating at the Pancake Shop (see above) We knew we wouldn’t get as lucky as we did the day before on the parking issue. So, we decided to pay $20 to the lot directly in front of the track and park there. It was important to us to have a parking spot where we didn’t have a long walk. We parked there on Saturday, too and it was well worth it. We arrived at early and decided to go across the street to the bar to have a drink and work on our forms. The bar is Rocky’s Corner -- www.rockyscorner.netfirms.com . As we slid into a booth, the waitress promptly asked if we wanted a drink. Hey, even though it was only ten o’clock, we’re on vacation at the races! We both ordered a tomato beer—which confused our girl. Red beers must just be a Kansas thing. After we described what we wanted, she came back with huge, ice cold mugs full of beer and a side of tomato juice. Perfect! The mugs were so cold that they turned our beer into slush for a bit. YUM! As we worked our forms, people trickled in. The locals crowded around the bar, cussing and discussing this horse and that jockey. Tables began to order pizzas and gosh they looked good!!! Deep dish pizzas, carried out on cake stands dripping with cheese, veggies and meat. We didn’t order one, but that just gives us one more reason to visit again. They smelled SO good. After a few beers, we bundled up, left the warmth of bar and headed back across the street to the track.

It was cold…I’m told it was one of the coldest Derby weekends anyone could remember. Thank goodness we packed accordingly. The wind whipped the crowd as we huddled to keep warm. However, that didn’t stop us from stepping up to one of the many windows that sells beer. Track beer simply tastes better--sweeter and lighter. Even as temperatures dropped, it was quite easy to down a few of those. We had seats inside for both Thursday and Friday, but we opted to sit on the big stone steps, right in front of the finish line. Even if we would have had access to a fancy box to sit in, I would have chosen to be where we were, right in the middle of all of the action. We sat by a really nice couple from Missouri. We ended up saving them a place on Saturday for the big day. It worked out well. We saved their spots as they placed bets and they saved ours. It was definitely a challenge at times. But, I digress. Back to the Friday races. It was tough going. We cashed one WPS ticket. One. We missed a lot of races by a single horse. Oh well. Friday wasn’t too busy, either. The lines were maybe four deep at the betting windows. You could get your bets in right up until the last minute. Right after a race ends, the people trickle back into the building, re-beer, place their bets and then slowly make their way back to the rail for the next race. If you like the people watch, this is the place to be. The races finished up around six o’clock and we were famished. We headed back to the hotel to decide where to eat dinner.

After a couple of glasses of wine, we decided to walk around the block and eat at Angels in the Park www.angelsinthepark.com . It’s in an older hotel, a bit smaller than The Arlington. The décor is reminiscent of an old Italian bistro. The ceiling is painted a lovely blue and dotted with white clouds. The lighting is dark and cozy. They have a cute little bar that would be great for an after or before dinner drink. The couple we met from Missouri had drinks there both evenings, I believe. The menu is full of Italian dishes from calamari to veal. When we sat down we were served a basket full of crusty bread and some of the best pesto I’ve ever had. I ate a LOT of that. It was nutty and good. Our waitress had a lovely Italian accent—I’m not sure, but she might have been the owner. She was really fun and made our meal very comforting. We started off with the crab cakes in red pepper sauce. VERY good. The sauce was creamy with a hint of roasted pepper. After that, I had the special. Homemade ravioli stuffed with artichokes in sage sauce. Delicious. I could really taste the artichoke. The pasta had a good bite and, the sage complimented it well. My husband ordered the meat lasagna. It was quite a big portion, so he didn’t end up finishing it all. The sauce was a bit sweet for him, but I really liked it. We decided to get some dessert and take it back up to our room for later. She gave us a huge piece of cheesecake and something that I believe she called Italian delight. The lightest cream puffs you’ve ever had topped with some sort of chocolate whipped cream. Very good. We walked back to our hotel and debated on having one more glass of wine, but we were both worn out. And, there was some sort of prom going on so the bar was packed with onlookers as the couples entered in their fancy gowns and tuxes. So, we went to our room, ate our dessert and we were asleep before our heads hit the pillows. You guys were right. The races wear you out.

It’s Derby Day!!!!!!! We arose really early and got out the door by eight in order to drive around a bit and scope out a restaurant for that night and, the people at Rocky’s Corner said they were opening at nine, so we had decided to go there and work on our forms again. We parked and went to Rocky’s promptly at nine. They weren’t open. Dang. Oh well, we went and got in line. We had a long wait because the track didn’t open until ten. Around nine forty-five, as we peered across the street, the door to the bar finally was unlocked, so, we sacrificed our places in line in order to get a bloody mary . They make great ones. Spicy with olives on a toothpick. We drank those down. Around ten thirty we made our way back over to the track.

WOW, it was a lot busier than the days before, but we were able to get our seats on the stone bleachers right on the finish line again. I threw my purse next to me in order to save room for our new friends. It was a beautiful day. A bit chilly at first, but the sun was shining brightly and the wind was calm. After a while, I was happy that I had worn sandals and a short sleeved shirt. We got a nice tan/burn. You couldn’t have asked for better weather. Not too hot, not too cold. We were told that we had to wait to place any bets until after the national anthem had played, so my husband went to get us one of the famous corned beef sandwiches that we were told we had to try—everyone we met told us how good they were. While he was gone, I spotted our friends and waved them up to our spots. Like I said earlier, that worked out great. Later in the day, the husband came back with a strawberry daiquiri for me to thank us for saving them seats. What a nice couple!! Anyway, Ronnie came back with a corned beef for me and a Rueben for him. Both were good, but we agreed that the corned beef was better. I covered it with the horseradish sauce it came with and drank a beer right along side. Heaven. Pure heaven. The meat is moist. Not too salty. The rye bread lightly toasted and buttered. Oh, and he also came back with some squishy seats that we could sit on. I highly recommend a blanket or stadium chairs if you sit there. It gets a little hard on your bottom by the fourth race. People started coming in droves and made their way to the rail. By the end of the day they announced that roughly fifty five thousand people were there! Boy, were there a lot of different kinds of folks there. From overalls to big fancy hats. Looking over to the right, you could see the big ESPN stage where Hank and all the guys would sit during the Derby race. Camera guys and girls were everywhere filming the crowd and the track. I wondered if I should have made a sign that said “HI MOM” As I looked out into the infield, I could see families sitting on huge blankets enjoying the day. Lots of benches were placed along the side so that people could sit and watch. The smell of the corned beef mixed with the smells of corndogs, huge soft pretzels stuffed with cheese, gigantic peel and eat shrimp, oysters on the half shell, roast beef and cheddar sandwiches, hand cut French fries, hamburgers, hot dogs and chicken strips. People, walking around with a beer, wine or frozen drink in one hand and a box of food in the other, looking for a place to balance their food and eat. Finally, they played the National Anthem. Everyone stood, with hands over their hearts and sang. I just love Arkansas. The big screen TV was showing fighter planes flying, so I looked up to spot them. The crowd giggled as they explained that it was only on TV. I don’t get out much The stone bleachers to right of us were roped off and saved for the families and friends of the jockeys and the trainers and owners. I saw a few familiar trainers and jockeys, but never got up close enough to get an autograph. I probably would have been too shy to ask, anyway. The races flew by on Saturday. All of the sudden we were thirty minutes for the big race. If possible, even more people were packing in. We decided to get our bets placed and re-beer. And they’re off!!!! With the whole crowd standing and cheering the horses rounded the track. It’s Popa Clem with the win!!! We didn’t win any money on that one, but, hey, you can’t win them all! Sadly, Old Fashioned broke a knee, we found out later. I would have never known had I not read it online. Right before the last race, which was the last race of the season, the band played Auld Lang Syne. All of the crowd swayed and sang with their drinks in the air. The last race of the day was a long one that had the horses cross the finish line twice. Unfortunately, one gentleman forgot that aspect, screamed, while pumping his fists in the air, and rushed in to cash his huge winning ticket before the race was over. I was glad that wasn’t me And then, it was over. I’ve never had two and a half days go so quickly in my life. We ended up winning $540 dollars on a race that day. All in all, we came out ahead, which is like the icing on the cake.

We were amped up. What a great day!! Let’s go to dinner! We drove down to the Fisherman’s Wharf www.fishermanswharfhs.com What a fun place! You can go out on to the deck and feed the fish and watch the lake. It’s very beautiful. No tables were available, so we went to the bar and waited with a glass of wine. Once again, the people were so gracious and kind. We met a couple that lives there and they chatted with us and helped pass the time until our table was ready. We were shown to our table which was on the enclosed deck. I think they must take the plastic down when the weather gets nicer. It was a gorgeous view. The sun was setting and the lights from the boats and houses twinkled, dancing on the water. I could have stayed there for ever with a glass of wine. We were starving and started out with ¼ lb of peel and eat shrimp and six oysters on the half shell. Delicious. There were six shrimp boiled to perfection. Just the right spicyness. The oysters were briny and slid down with ease. At the bar there were workers shucking the oysters and sending them out as fast as they could. They must have REALLY strong hands to do what they do. Next, my husband ordered the clam chowder. It was pretty good. Not a lot of clam, but it had a good flavor. For our main course I had the butterfly shrimp stuffed with crab and my husband had crab legs. Mine came with rice and salad, his came with coleslaw and fries. Once again, it was all delicious. My shrimp were tender and rich. Ronnie’s crab was moist. All in all a wonderful meal.

So, that’s the story of our trip. I can’t wait to go back. Thank you to the people of Hot Springs. And, remember, you can say anything you want about anyone as long as you end it with a “bless their heart”. As I’m sure you’re saying about me right now:

“Geez, that was too long of a re-cap. She’s long-winded, bless her heart”

[judiu]

About that red beer, if you call it a N'Orleans breakfast you might be better understood.

[Kim Shook]

Shelby - what a great trip and what a wonderful report. It all sounds fantastic. Some of my family is from there and I've always wanted to take my mom back for a visit. Thanks for the pictures and the descriptions and everything!