Saveur: 12 Restaurants That Matter

[ulterior epicure]

This latest issue of Saveur, which I received in the mail today, the magazine lists "12 Restaurants That Matter."

... But why do the dozen restaurants featured here mean more to us than others?  For one thing, they have profoundly influenced the way we think about food.  Just as important, though, they delight us, dazzle us, and comfort us in ways that make us feel both at home and utterly transported...

Here are the twelve, in the order the magazine listed:

1. Joel Robuchon (Las Vegas)

2. Sportello (Boston)

3. Commander's Palace (New Orleans)

4. Topolobompo (Chicago)

5. Canlis (Seattle)

6. Gramercy Tavern (New York)

7. Manresa (Los Gatos)

8. Watershed (Atlanta)

9. Marlow & Sons (New York)

10. Musso and Frank Grill (Los Angeles)

11. Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Pocantico Hills)

12. Slanted Door (San Francisco)

Diverse - type of cuisine and geographically.

Thoughts?

[gfron1]

I guess the glaring question to me is why no Alinea? Based on their definition, I can't think of a better example.

[Chefb28]

I agree I'm suprised as well that yhey didn't mentioned Alinea. As well as the French laundry.

[maggiethecat]

I agree I'm suprised as well that yhey didn't mentioned Alinea. As well as the French laundry.

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I think "comfort us" gives us a clue here, though Alinea made me feel comforted as well as challenged.

[docsconz]

I'm not familiar with 2,8,9 or 10 so can't speak to those, but Slanted Door? Really?

[Mayhaw Man]

I'm not familiar with 2,8,9 or 10 so can't speak to those, but Slanted Door? Really?

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Doc, you should get familiar with #8. I love that place. Alot. Waaay more than Commander's, even though I can walk there and I have to make a little more effort to get to Georgia.

[ulterior epicure]

I'm not familiar with 2,8,9 or 10 so can't speak to those, but Slanted Door? Really?

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Have you been to the rest, doc?

I've only been to four out of the ten. I can't say I was immensely impressed by more than just one of them, though I can see how three of them might be considered "restaurants that matter."

[daisy17]

Commander's Palace? Huh?

I never know what to do with lists like this.

[MikeTMD]

"Slanted Door" is quite innovative, similar to "Momofuku/Ssam". Still, I am curious what selection criteria they've applied to their list.

Edited March 18, 2009 by MikeTMD (log)

[Chefb28]

I feel kinda like a loser I've only been to one out of the 10 but it was worth it and that was #4 (techniqly I ate at Frontera but it's pretty much the same menu)

[gfron1]

I'm not sure I have the energy to knock Slanted Door any more since we've all argued that point in the CA forum. I'll just say that for the dollar (meaning a low-moderate priced restaurant) it is worth it, but certainly not "important" nor "comfort." However, I'm sure it had its day.

[ulterior epicure]

Tangentially, I got to flip through more of the magazine while I waited for the sandman to arrive last night. There's a one-pager that profiles 9 "Signature Dishes."

Here they are in the order in which they appear (though I don't think the order here really matters):

1. Snapper (Turtle) Soup, Bookbinder's (Philadelphia)

2. Oysters Rockefeller, Antoine's (New Orleans)

3. Lobster Savannah, Locke-Ober (Boston)

4. Orange Beef, Shun Lee Palace (New York)

5. Baked Goat Cheese with Garden Lettuces, Chez Panisse (Berkeley)

6. House Smoked Salmon Pizza, Spago (Los Angeles)

7. Chicken for Two Roasted in the Brick Oven, Zuni Cafe (San Francisco)

8. Black Cod with Miso, Nobu (New York - and available at all 18 Nobu establishments)

9. Jean-Georges Chocolate Cake, Jean-Georges (New York - and, like Nobu's miso black cod, available at many other imitators the world over.)

[GordonCooks]

I guess I can agree with many (not most) of the choices - esp. Commander's Palace which is probably more relevant today than ever due to the situation on New Orleans. I don't think any of the others are so intrinsically linked and long lived in the community as they are.

[ulterior epicure]

I don't think any of the others are so intrinsically linked and long lived in the community as they are.

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Right, but how does one write about Chez Panisse in this manner without sounding redundant?

I suspect these are JUST twelve restaurants that matter, NOT the ONLY twelve, or even the TOP twelve, or the BEST twelve, or... you get my point.

[GordonCooks]

I don't think any of the others are so intrinsically linked and long lived in the community as they are.

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Right, but how does one write about Chez Panisse in this manner without sounding redundant?

I suspect these are JUST twelve restaurants that matter, NOT the ONLY twelve, or even the TOP twelve, or the BEST twelve, or... you get my point.

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I agree with you on the "just" part, but can't help wondering "why" write the list article without a defined point of view? I really can't come up with a common denominator to make this list appropriate in my mind. I'm probably in higher agreement with the signature dishes than restaurants that matter.

[ulterior epicure]

I don't think any of the others are so intrinsically linked and long lived in the community as they are.

←

Right, but how does one write about Chez Panisse in this manner without sounding redundant?

I suspect these are JUST twelve restaurants that matter, NOT the ONLY twelve, or even the TOP twelve, or the BEST twelve, or... you get my point.

←

I agree with you on the "just" part, but can't help wondering "why" write the list article without a defined point of view? I really can't come up with a common denominator to make this list appropriate in my mind. I'm probably in higher agreement with the signature dishes than restaurants that matter.

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Common denominators:

1. In composite, this list of restaurants covers the four corners of this great country.

2. In composite, this list of restaurants covers a relatively diverse set of cuisines. Name me the most "important" Asian restaurants in the U.S. I bet The Slanted Door might just be at the top of most people's list. Likewise, Topolobompo for Latin - especially Mexican - cuisine.

3. What I didn't disclose in my initial post (and what I didn't discover until reading some of the restaurant profiles) is that there is an emphasis on terroir and locavorism. That automatically narrows the field. Most of these twelve restaurants fit the bill.

There may be other thematic under currents here, but I'll have to think about it a little before I venture any other observations.

[ulterior epicure]

I don't think any of the others are so intrinsically linked and long lived in the community as they are.

←

Right, but how does one write about Chez Panisse in this manner without sounding redundant?

I suspect these are JUST twelve restaurants that matter, NOT the ONLY twelve, or even the TOP twelve, or the BEST twelve, or... you get my point.

←

I agree with you on the "just" part, but can't help wondering "why" write the list article without a defined point of view? I really can't come up with a common denominator to make this list appropriate in my mind. I'm probably in higher agreement with the signature dishes than restaurants that matter.

←

Common denominators:

1. In composite, this list of restaurants covers the four corners of this great country.

2. In composite, this list of restaurants covers a relatively diverse set of cuisines. Name me the most "important" Asian restaurants in the U.S. I bet The Slanted Door might just be at the top of most people's list. Likewise, Topolobompo for Latin - especially Mexican - cuisine.

3. What I didn't disclose in my initial post (and what I didn't discover until reading some of the restaurant profiles) is that there is an emphasis on terroir and locavorism. That automatically narrows the field. Most of these twelve restaurants fit the bill.

There may be other thematic under currents here, but I'll have to think about it a little before I venture any other observations.

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Though, I would argue that Frontera Grill is more important than Topolobompo. But, six and one half dozen - they're basically twins conjoined at the hip. One just happens to have more expensive taste.

[slkinsey]

9. Jean-Georges Chocolate Cake, Jean-Georges (New York - and, like Nobu's miso black cod, available at many other imitators the world over.)

Interesting, considering that I've always been given to understand (from people I trust to know these things) that the "molten center chocolate cake" was a conception of Michel Bras and not Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

Anyway, I'll echo the sentiments of others who have observed that this is Saveur's list of "12 restaurants that matter" -- not "the 12 restaurants that matter most."

Edited March 18, 2009 by slkinsey (log)

[ulterior epicure]

9. Jean-Georges Chocolate Cake, Jean-Georges (New York - and, like Nobu's miso black cod, available at many other imitators the world over.)

Interesting, considering that I've always been given to understand (from people I trust to know these things) that the "molten center chocolate cake" was a conception of Michel Bras and not Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

As have I. Then again, I've heard it attributed to about half a dozen chefs. The common denominator there was that they were all French.

[docsconz]

I'm not familiar with 2,8,9 or 10 so can't speak to those, but Slanted Door? Really?

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Have you been to the rest, doc?

I've only been to four out of the ten. I can't say I was immensely impressed by more than just one of them, though I can see how three of them might be considered "restaurants that matter."

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I've been to 7 of the 12 and was least impressed with The Slanted Door. Le Cheval across the Bay in Oakland is a better Vietnamese restaurant, though TSD gets all the hype. Commander's has had its ups and downs for quality and relevance, but I can accept that it "matters" even if it wouldn't be on a list that I would make.

[docsconz]

I don't think any of the others are so intrinsically linked and long lived in the community as they are.

←

Right, but how does one write about Chez Panisse in this manner without sounding redundant?

I suspect these are JUST twelve restaurants that matter, NOT the ONLY twelve, or even the TOP twelve, or the BEST twelve, or... you get my point.

←

I agree with you on the "just" part, but can't help wondering "why" write the list article without a defined point of view? I really can't come up with a common denominator to make this list appropriate in my mind. I'm probably in higher agreement with the signature dishes than restaurants that matter.

←

Common denominators:

1. In composite, this list of restaurants covers the four corners of this great country.

2. In composite, this list of restaurants covers a relatively diverse set of cuisines. Name me the most "important" Asian restaurants in the U.S. I bet The Slanted Door might just be at the top of most people's list. Likewise, Topolobompo for Latin - especially Mexican - cuisine.

3. What I didn't disclose in my initial post (and what I didn't discover until reading some of the restaurant profiles) is that there is an emphasis on terroir and locavorism. That automatically narrows the field. Most of these twelve restaurants fit the bill.

There may be other thematic under currents here, but I'll have to think about it a little before I venture any other observations.

←

Though, I would argue that Frontera Grill is more important than Topolobompo. But, six and one half dozen - they're basically twins conjoined at the hip. One just happens to have more expensive taste.

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I disagree. Frontera is more an outpost of down home pan-Mexican cooking, while Topo is more a bastion of upscale gourmet Mexican. I think both are wonderful and clearly related, though not the same.

[ulterior epicure]

I disagree. Frontera is more an outpost of down home pan-Mexican cooking, while Topo is more a bastion of upscale gourmet Mexican. I think both are wonderful and clearly related, though not the same.

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Right, right. Fraternal, not identical. Still joined at the hip. And one sibling still has more expensive taste.

[docsconz]

3. What I didn't disclose in my initial post (and what I didn't discover until reading some of the restaurant profiles) is that there is an emphasis on terroir and locavorism.  That automatically narrows the field.  Most of these twelve restaurants fit the bill.

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How does Robuchon fit this bill, especially in Las Vegas?

[docsconz]

I disagree. Frontera is more an outpost of down home pan-Mexican cooking, while Topo is more a bastion of upscale gourmet Mexican. I think both are wonderful and clearly related, though not the same.

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Right, right. Fraternal, not identical. Still joined at the hip. And one sibling still has more expensive taste.

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I'll buy that!

[ulterior epicure]

3. What I didn't disclose in my initial post (and what I didn't discover until reading some of the restaurant profiles) is that there is an emphasis on terroir and locavorism.  That automatically narrows the field.  Most of these twelve restaurants fit the bill.

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How does Robuchon fit this bill, especially in Las Vegas?

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You're absolutely right. It doesn't.

Bolded Red for emphasis.