New Noilly Prat

[Mike S.]

So no one has spoken to how this works differently in the kitchen from the old - is it better with deglazing and with sauces?

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The new-to US formula makes a heck of a New Haven-style white clam sauce for pasta, but I'll admit that I never tried that with the old US formula. Can't speak to the deglazing issue, but I would not hesitate to give it a go.

[suzilightning]

oh, good... glad to know that i'm NOT going crazy. made a martini the first time in ages and was freaked out over the yellow pee look. then actually tasted the new version on it's own and can see some possibilities but am not crazy about it for a martini the way i like it. my usual liquor store still has the smaller bottles of the older formula so i may pick some up. being up here in the hinterlands unfortunately means you don't have access to many other vermouths... or bitters... or....

[jmfangio]

The new formula has finally started showing up in Los Angeles. Thus far only at my local BevMo; other places seem to be out entirely while awaiting new stock, or still have a decent supply of the old formula.

I had a fresh bottle of the old when I saw the new, so of course experimentation was in order. I had a friend over for drinks, and we tried it first in a martini, 4:1 with a dash of orange bitters (I made both drinks at the same time, so we could sample them side by side, and my friend was tasting them blind). We both had similar thoughts - the new stuff is definitely sweeter, with a more pronounced herbal note - don't know what, exactly. Can't say just yet which we preferred, just that the old formula is what we're used to. Certainly enjoyed it, though, and want to experiment more with different gins/ratios.

Next, I wanted to try a vermouth heavy cocktail, The Imperial. 1 1/2 oz each Beefeater and Noilly, dash of Angostura, 1/3 teaspoon Maraschino. Here, it really shined. The old formula is good in this drink, but the sweetness and herbal notes of the new stuff really came through in this one.

The next night I made myself two Atty's (Beefeater, Noilly, Verte de Fougerolles, Hermes Violet), and I had much the same experience as I did with the Imperial. The drink with the old formula was wonderful, but the new stuff takes it to another level.

A few nights later I made myself a 3:1 martini with the new formula and a healthy dash of my just strained Bergamot Bitters, and magic happened. The bergamot flavor, which really comes out in the aftertaste, complemented the botanicals in the new formula beautifully.

[bostonapothecary]

The new formula has finally started showing up in Los Angeles.  Thus far only at my local BevMo; other places seem to be out entirely while awaiting new stock, or still have a decent supply of the old formula. 

I had a fresh bottle of the old when I saw the new, so of course experimentation was in order.  I had a friend over for drinks, and we tried it first in a martini, 4:1 with a dash of orange bitters (I made both drinks at the same time, so we could sample them side by side, and my friend was tasting them blind).  We both had similar thoughts - the new stuff is definitely sweeter, with a more pronounced herbal note - don't know what, exactly.  Can't say just yet which we preferred, just that the old formula is what we're used to.  Certainly enjoyed it, though, and want to experiment more with different gins/ratios.

Next, I wanted to try a vermouth heavy cocktail, The Imperial.  1 1/2 oz each Beefeater and Noilly, dash of Angostura, 1/3 teaspoon Maraschino.  Here, it really shined.  The old formula is good in this drink, but the sweetness and herbal notes of the new stuff really came through in this one.

The next night I made myself two Atty's (Beefeater, Noilly, Verte de Fougerolles, Hermes Violet), and I had much the same experience as I did with the Imperial.  The drink with the old formula was wonderful, but the new stuff takes it to another level.

A few nights later I made myself a 3:1 martini with the new formula and a healthy dash of my just strained Bergamot Bitters, and magic happened.  The bergamot flavor, which really comes out in the aftertaste, complemented the botanicals in the new formula beautifully.

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i want to put the new version on the list with the wines by the glass and see what happens.

[CincyCraig]

I think that the "new" NP is excellent, world class even, in classic pre-prohibition cocktails. in more 'modern' cocktails, such as the modern martini, it has to be used rather judiciously, i.e., at a 4:1 or even 5:1 ration.

Cheers,

Craig

[Mike S.]

i want to put the new version on the list with the wines by the glass and see what happens.

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Boston, I'm not sure if you were being serious or sarcastic, but I'll tell you honestly -- I'd order it off a wine list by the glass as an aperitif, especially if you'd be willing to serve it to me in a nice goblet wineglass over ice with a slice of lemon. I absolutely love it that way.

[brinza]

I just managed to get a bottle of the new stuff yesterday. I have to say I prefer it to the old. I still have some of the old on hand and was able to compare them side by side. A considerable difference, to be sure. The new version is not quite as dry, and certainly has a rounder, fuller mouthfeel. Also, I agree with statements about its being more floral. Hmm...wonder how it would be with St. Germain? Anyway, I'm pleased with it, and I just hope I can continue to get it on a regular basis. Hey, if this is actually what has been the real Noilly Prat all along, who am I to argue?

[eje]

No question it's sweeter. I ran the brix on most all dry vermouth a few months ago (and can post results once I pull the file), and while the old US Noilly and other dry vermouths hold an almost uniform 3% sugar, the traditional Marseilles (aka new) is 4%, a 1/3 more, but still not as sweet as the Blanc and Rosso styles.

Something lost in the discussion, and unfortunately in the promotion to date of this NP, is it's heritage as the Marseilles style of vermouth. This style was noted by it's presence of color (paille or doré - straw or gold), the wood from aging, and it's Madeira finish. Popular at the turn of the century, typically served in drinks with fruit syrups or used in cooking, many other French producers made this as well.

With growing popularity of cocktails in the 1920s, the preponderance of leading French vermouth producers (Richard, Mermet, Dolin, Reynaud, Boissieres, Comoz) saw tremendous growth in sales in the dry offering of their hallmark clear vermouth. Blanc then meant clear, and you'd see sweet and dry versions on offer. Most of these producers ceased production of a Marseilles style vermouth by the 1930's.

While today the NP sells very well in France for kitchen use, it's unique flavor characteristics deserve exploration both at the bar and kitchen.

Interestingly, I was recently reading a cocktail book from 1925 called, "Drinks Long & Short" by Nina Toye and A.H. Adair. Whether it is a quirk of the authors, representative of the time, or an advertiser/promotion deal, I cannot say, but in many cases where dry vermouth is called for, they specify "Noilly Prat Vermouth".

Edited October 7, 2010 by eje (log)

[Martin Fisher]

They're allegedly bringing back the old formula as Noilly Prat Extra Dry.

[FrogPrincesse]

It's been on the shelves for a few months already. The dry formula is still being offered which is good. As a bonus, the 375 mL size seems much easier to find these days.

Here they are :

Edited September 25, 2013 by FrogPrincesse (log)