World's best modern/molecular restaurants

[chefAZ]

Tang in Dubai, UAE

[Fat Guy]

I'm not familiar with O's Steak and Seafood. What is that place all about? The name certainly does not provide any indication of belonging on this list, but as we all know, names can be deceptive.

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It's an MG restaurant in a Westin in Denver, from what I've read. The chef's name is Ian Kleinman. Here's an article about the place.

Although the offerings change weekly, an evening might include sweet-corn purée served in individual pipettes to be squeezed into the mouth and chased with pickled red jalapeño and bites of roasted lobster. Or, you might be served test tubes of contrasting elixirs offering the essence of sweet pomegranate, maple butternut squash, and ginger quince, followed by truffle-puffed wild rice, or finally beer-braised pork belly with cauliflower purée, elephant-garlic jam, and a dandelion reduction.

[docsconz]

I will list the best restaurants that I have been to that I think qualify for this list. As such, I will not list meals that were not held in full-fledged restaurants such as those I have enjoyed from Alex and Aki and Shola Olunloyo.

In no particular order, but as they pop into my head:

• elBulli
  Can Roca
  Arzak
  Ca Sento
  Alkimia
  Abac
  Sant Pau
  L'Esguard
  Monastrell
  Osteria Francescana
  L'Astrance
  minibar
  Cafe Atlantico
  Alinea
  WD-50
  Tailor
  Coi
  Binkley's
  

Most of the list above is pretty clear cut, though there might be a few that are debatable. There are a number of restaurants that I omitted, even though they may use a smattering of techniques. The preponderance of their approach is based more on the preceding nouvelle cuisine than a full scale technoemotional approach. Though currently closed, I believe L'Esguard belongs there, even though the specific techniques employed are distinct from any of the other restaurants. Nevertheless, the spirit is the same.

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How could I forget to add Moto to this list? There are probably others I've missed as well, but that was a glaring omission.

[docsconz]

I'm not familiar with O's Steak and Seafood. What is that place all about? The name certainly does not provide any indication of belonging on this list, but as we all know, names can be deceptive.

←

It's an MG restaurant in a Westin in Denver, from what I've read. The chef's name is Ian Kleinman. Here's an article about the place.

Although the offerings change weekly, an evening might include sweet-corn purée served in individual pipettes to be squeezed into the mouth and chased with pickled red jalapeño and bites of roasted lobster. Or, you might be served test tubes of contrasting elixirs offering the essence of sweet pomegranate, maple butternut squash, and ginger quince, followed by truffle-puffed wild rice, or finally beer-braised pork belly with cauliflower purée, elephant-garlic jam, and a dandelion reduction.

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Sounds interesting. Another chef and restaurant that I have heard good things about and qualifies for this list is Kurtis Jantz and Neomi's at The Trump International Sonesta in Miami.

[docsconz]

Reading another topic just know brought to mind another omission on my list - Ken Oringer's Clio in Boston - one of the pioneers of this approach in the US and still going strong. This restaurant was the breeding ground of the likes of Alex Stupac, Alex Talbot, Aki Kamozawa and Rick Billings amongst others.

[LPShanet]

I will list the best restaurants that I have been to that I think qualify for this list. As such, I will not list meals that were not held in full-fledged restaurants such as those I have enjoyed from Alex and Aki and Shola Olunloyo.

In no particular order, but as they pop into my head:

• elBulli
  Can Roca
  Arzak
  Ca Sento
  Alkimia
  Abac
  Sant Pau
  L'Esguard
  Monastrell
  Osteria Francescana
  L'Astrance
  minibar
  Cafe Atlantico
  Alinea
  WD-50
  Tailor
  Coi
  Binkley's
  

Most of the list above is pretty clear cut, though there might be a few that are debatable. There are a number of restaurants that I omitted, even though they may use a smattering of techniques. The preponderance of their approach is based more on the preceding nouvelle cuisine than a full scale technoemotional approach. Though currently closed, I believe L'Esguard belongs there, even though the specific techniques employed are distinct from any of the other restaurants. Nevertheless, the spirit is the same.

←

How could I forget to add Moto to this list? There are probably others I've missed as well, but that was a glaring omission.

←

Great list, Doc. Now I'm really going to put you on the spot and ask you to rank them. Or at least list your top 10. I've been to about half of your list, and am curious to compare.

[docsconz]

I will list the best restaurants that I have been to that I think qualify for this list. As such, I will not list meals that were not held in full-fledged restaurants such as those I have enjoyed from Alex and Aki and Shola Olunloyo.

In no particular order, but as they pop into my head:

• elBulli
  Can Roca
  Arzak
  Ca Sento
  Alkimia
  Abac
  Sant Pau
  L'Esguard
  Monastrell
  Osteria Francescana
  L'Astrance
  minibar
  Cafe Atlantico
  Alinea
  WD-50
  Tailor
  Coi
  Binkley's
  

Most of the list above is pretty clear cut, though there might be a few that are debatable. There are a number of restaurants that I omitted, even though they may use a smattering of techniques. The preponderance of their approach is based more on the preceding nouvelle cuisine than a full scale technoemotional approach. Though currently closed, I believe L'Esguard belongs there, even though the specific techniques employed are distinct from any of the other restaurants. Nevertheless, the spirit is the same.

←

How could I forget to add Moto to this list? There are probably others I've missed as well, but that was a glaring omission.

←

Great list, Doc. Now I'm really going to put you on the spot and ask you to rank them. Or at least list your top 10. I've been to about half of your list, and am curious to compare.

←

I hate to disappoint you, but I'm not sure that I can outside of 1 & 2, which would be elBulli and Alinea in that order. They all have special memories for me and were sources of unique and wonderful meals. I might go so far as to put Ca Sento as number 3.

[IFS]

What about El Poblet and Mugaritz?

I would also add Oud Sluis and De Librije in the Netherlands, t'Zilte, De Jonkman, In the Wulf in Belgium. L'Arnsbourg in Alsace.

In Germany I strongly recommend Joachim Wissler (Vendome in Bensberg) and Restaurant Amador (in Langen near Frankfurt). Molecular techniques are intelligently used to improve taste and not to impress the diner.

[LPShanet]

I will list the best restaurants that I have been to that I think qualify for this list. As such, I will not list meals that were not held in full-fledged restaurants such as those I have enjoyed from Alex and Aki and Shola Olunloyo.

In no particular order, but as they pop into my head:

• elBulli
  Can Roca
  Arzak
  Ca Sento
  Alkimia
  Abac
  Sant Pau
  L'Esguard
  Monastrell
  Osteria Francescana
  L'Astrance
  minibar
  Cafe Atlantico
  Alinea
  WD-50
  Tailor
  Coi
  Binkley's
  

Most of the list above is pretty clear cut, though there might be a few that are debatable. There are a number of restaurants that I omitted, even though they may use a smattering of techniques. The preponderance of their approach is based more on the preceding nouvelle cuisine than a full scale technoemotional approach. Though currently closed, I believe L'Esguard belongs there, even though the specific techniques employed are distinct from any of the other restaurants. Nevertheless, the spirit is the same.

←

How could I forget to add Moto to this list? There are probably others I've missed as well, but that was a glaring omission.

←

Great list, Doc. Now I'm really going to put you on the spot and ask you to rank them. Or at least list your top 10. I've been to about half of your list, and am curious to compare.

←

I hate to disappoint you, but I'm not sure that I can outside of 1 & 2, which would be elBulli and Alinea in that order. They all have special memories for me and were sources of unique and wonderful meals. I might go so far as to put Ca Sento as number 3.

←

As it happens, those are my top two as well! Clearly, if our tastes continue to have so much in common, I'm going to have to consult you regularly on my eating travels:)

[docsconz]

What about El Poblet and Mugaritz?

I would also add Oud Sluis and De Librije in the Netherlands, t'Zilte, De Jonkman, In the Wulf in Belgium. L'Arnsbourg in Alsace.

In Germany I strongly recommend Joachim Wissler (Vendome in Bensberg) and Restaurant Amador (in Langen near Frankfurt). Molecular techniques are intelligently used to improve taste and not to impress the diner.

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I haven't yet eaten at Mugaritz and was disappointed with El Poblet, though clearly it has a place on a list such as this - just not my personal one.

Another contender for this list, which I hope to try soon is Paul Liebrandt's Corton.

The other restaurants mentioned sound interesting as well.

[docsconz]

I will list the best restaurants that I have been to that I think qualify for this list. As such, I will not list meals that were not held in full-fledged restaurants such as those I have enjoyed from Alex and Aki and Shola Olunloyo.

In no particular order, but as they pop into my head:

• elBulli
  Can Roca
  Arzak
  Ca Sento
  Alkimia
  Abac
  Sant Pau
  L'Esguard
  Monastrell
  Osteria Francescana
  L'Astrance
  minibar
  Cafe Atlantico
  Alinea
  WD-50
  Tailor
  Coi
  Binkley's
  

Most of the list above is pretty clear cut, though there might be a few that are debatable. There are a number of restaurants that I omitted, even though they may use a smattering of techniques. The preponderance of their approach is based more on the preceding nouvelle cuisine than a full scale technoemotional approach. Though currently closed, I believe L'Esguard belongs there, even though the specific techniques employed are distinct from any of the other restaurants. Nevertheless, the spirit is the same.

←

How could I forget to add Moto to this list? There are probably others I've missed as well, but that was a glaring omission.

←

Great list, Doc. Now I'm really going to put you on the spot and ask you to rank them. Or at least list your top 10. I've been to about half of your list, and am curious to compare.

←

I hate to disappoint you, but I'm not sure that I can outside of 1 & 2, which would be elBulli and Alinea in that order. They all have special memories for me and were sources of unique and wonderful meals. I might go so far as to put Ca Sento as number 3.

←

As it happens, those are my top two as well! Clearly, if our tastes continue to have so much in common, I'm going to have to consult you regularly on my eating travels:)

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One good thing about a site like this is that over time one gets a sense of how the tastes of others compare to one's own and one can apply that and extrapolate to other restaurants.

[chefAZ]

I think its also interesting that all of these restaurants are in fact very different from each other. Some are very formal and some are casual and some just have a service category all its own with a very unique style of service.

The design the concepts, they are all trying to show you something different....but they all employ modern techniques which makes me wonder whether its just evolution and eventually most of the world's top restaurants will be considered modern one way or another?

That aside I think it really comes down to the fact that all of these restaurants directly reflect the personal style and passion of the chef...

Edited October 22, 2008 by chefAZ (log)

[Kent Wang]

Just curious, how do the American ones rate against each other and the world? I've been reading a lot that Alinea is number one in the country. How does wd-50 rank?

It's not really a big deal, but I'm going to wd-50 this weekend and would like to know how it compares.

[docsconz]

Just curious, how do the American ones rate against each other and the world? I've been reading a lot that Alinea is number one in the country. How does wd-50 rank?

It's not really a big deal, but I'm going to wd-50 this weekend and would like to know how it compares.

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Wylie is one of the most highly regarded American chefs amongst the Vanguardists. WD-50 would be on anybody's list of the top technoemotional restaurants in the world who is interested in putting together such lists. WD-50 is in my top 5 of American restaurants and probably in my top ten internationally.

[Freelancer015]

Agreed. I've the Town House blog on my reading list for some time now, and the food certainly looks amazing. The chefs are John Shields and Karen Urie-- he was a sous chef at Alinea and she was the pastry chef at Charlie Trotter's.

So Shields at Town House, Curtis Duffy at Avenues, Alex Stupak at WD50... what are other former Alinea chefs doing? kind of fun to play "where are they now"

[LPShanet]

What about El Poblet and Mugaritz?

I would also add Oud Sluis and De Librije in the Netherlands, t'Zilte, De Jonkman, In the Wulf in Belgium. L'Arnsbourg in Alsace.

In Germany I strongly recommend Joachim Wissler (Vendome in Bensberg) and Restaurant Amador (in Langen near Frankfurt). Molecular techniques are intelligently used to improve taste and not to impress the diner.

←

I haven't yet eaten at Mugaritz and was disappointed with El Poblet, though clearly it has a place on a list such as this - just not my personal one.

Another contender for this list, which I hope to try soon is Paul Liebrandt's Corton.

The other restaurants mentioned sound interesting as well.

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I think Mugaritz was actually on my original list at the top of the thread. Eating there was a great experience, sort of a combination of elements from Blue Hill (the setting and farm-like ethos) and El Bulli (the high tech food served in a low tech ambience). While he was still refining his craft at the time I was there, it was one of the most memorable meals I can remember having, if a bit inconsistent in terms of deliciousness. It's the only time in my life I can say that I distinctly tasted each individual leaf in a salad (because each one was different and notable)...and I'm not even a salad person. Apparently, Aduriz has come a long way since (and added two more Michelin stars), but it was very memorable even then.

From what I've heard, Corton might not really go in this category, even though many of Liebrandt's previous efforts definitely did (like what he was doing at Gilt). The techno component is apparently quite toned down at Corton. Will have a full report on that in two weeks or so, as I'm going there at least once during that time.

[LPShanet]

Just curious, how do the American ones rate against each other and the world? I've been reading a lot that Alinea is number one in the country. How does wd-50 rank?

It's not really a big deal, but I'm going to wd-50 this weekend and would like to know how it compares.

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Obviously, this is very subjective. As has been said, Wylie is mentioned in the same breath as all of the international culinary stars in the genre. I've had some really amazing meals at WD-50. Still, on a personal level, I found Alinea to be even better, by a notable margin. While the food at WD-50 was and is groundbreaking, original and fun to eat, the entire experience at Alinea was, for me, really special. Not only did everything taste incredible, but the meal itself was elevated to the level of a performance rather than just a dinner, but without coming off as stuffy. The food there was among the best-tasting I've had at any restaurant, while also being the most conceptual and creative. Having been to quite a few restaurants in this genre around the world, and notably in Spain, which has long been considered the leading edge of this whole movement, I'd have to say that Alinea ranks for me in the very top echelon anywhere in the world (along with El Bulli). It was in my top two, just as it was in Doc's. I'd put WD-50 in the top 10, but definitely not in the top 3-4 for my personal taste. At its best, I think WD-50 belongs well inside that top 10, but I've also had meals there that didn't come together in all ways that they could. Maybe some of that is the price of experimentation, but there are places that have succeeded with me on an even higher level.

[PauloR]

Noma, Copenhagen, Denmark

Amador, Langen, Germany

Denis Martin, Vevey , Switzerland

[James Howard]

thomas keller is not happy with this list!

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Not to take anything away from Keller or Kinch, but I don't think either belong on this list. Not because they are not great chefs nor because their restaurants aren't great either, but because they are not "molecular", at least not in the sense I believe the question of this topic asked. I believe that this topic is beginning to see encroachment of restaurants that don't really belong to the category, even though they may be great in their own rights.

There certainly are many more Spanish restaurants that can find their ways to this list, though. The surface has only been scratched there.

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Thomas Keller uses the science of thought to push the chemisty of molecular gastromony to a level that few great chefs are able to reach. He also takes whether it be molecular or natural gastronomy to a level that keeps the perfection of the pairing of wine and cuisine, which I feel creates the experience.

[James Howard]

thomas keller is not happy with this list!

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Not to take anything away from Keller or Kinch, but I don't think either belong on this list. Not because they are not great chefs nor because their restaurants aren't great either, but because they are not "molecular", at least not in the sense I believe the question of this topic asked. I believe that this topic is beginning to see encroachment of restaurants that don't really belong to the category, even though they may be great in their own rights.

There certainly are many more Spanish restaurants that can find their ways to this list, though. The surface has only been scratched there.

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Thomas Keller uses the science of thought to push the chemisty of molecular gastromony to a level that few great chefs are able to reach. He also takes whether it be molecular or natural gastronomy to a level that keeps the perfection of the pairing of wine and cuisine, which I feel creates the experience.

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Molecular gastronomy is the new frontier and will change the look, feel and taste of foods for the future only as long as cusine is always at the fore front and the show only assists! Foods are created to be paired with wines and when the show distracts the perfect pairing we have crossed the line.

[spanielking]

L'Enclume, UK

Oaxen Skargardskrog, Sweden

There's my 2 pence worth.

[roosterchef21]

L'Enclume, UK

Oaxen Skargardskrog, Sweden

There's my 2 pence worth.

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I am so over this whole molecular thing. Why can't a chef source outstanding products and do as little as possible to it. Why do "molecular" chef's need to make a foam or gelee or "risotto" and show no respect to an ingredient. I don't mean chef's at the high end places (Alinea, WD50, Mugaritz, Gagnaire, El Bulli, Fat Duck etc) but the average chef.

Look, I'm 25 and I know most of my colleagues around my age and younger love it. And when they cook something it has to be molecular. And it just doesn't work. It seems these places are shaping their future. I think they need to learn the basics before trying the new.

So, FWIW and in no particular order my top 8:

Influential:

I guess this is subjective... Everyone has their own influences...

El Bulli

Fat Duck

French Laundry

Savoy

Robuchon

Ducasse - Louis XV & ADPA

Gordon Ramsay

Alinea

Molecular:

Gagnaire

El Bulli

Fat Duck

Mugaritz

Alinea

WD50

Veyrat

Per Se

Modern: (I'm not going Molecular here... At least not out and out molecular restaurants. I don't mind if they have the occasional touch of molecular)

L'Arpege

French Laundry

Louis XV

Bras

Roellinger

L'Astrance

L'Arnsbourg

Ledoyen

[Shinboners]

And let us not forget Interlude in Melbourne, and Tapas Molecular Bar in Tokyo.

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Interlude is no more. Reserve and Fenix were two other Melbourne restaurants that tried the "molecular gastronomy" path, and both of them closed their doors over the past five years. Still, the influence of el Bulli, Fat Duck, and co. can be seen on Australian menus with the use of foams, low pressure cooking, unexpected flavour combinations, etc.

Two places in Australia (and I haven't been to either of them) who might be included in a list of molecular gastronomy restaurants are the Royal Mail Hotel (www.royalmail.com.au) in Dunkeld, Victoria and Marque (www.marquerestaurant.com.au) in Sydney, New South Wales. Dan Hunter of the Royal Mail Hotel was a former head chef at Mugaritz in Spain.

At the other end of the scale, there's a place called Tender Trap (www.tendertrap.com.au) where....well.....here's the review from Epicure -

http://www.theage.com.au/news/reviews/tend...6377235127.html

[Shinboners]

I am so over this whole molecular thing. Why can't a chef source outstanding products and do as little as possible to it. Why do "molecular" chef's need to make a foam or gelee or "risotto" and show no respect to an ingredient. I don't mean chef's at the high end places (Alinea, WD50, Mugaritz, Gagnaire, El Bulli, Fat Duck etc) but the average chef.

Ah, you'll cringe if you read the Age review of Tender Trap in my post above.

Look, I'm 25 and I know most of my colleagues around my age and younger love it. And when they cook something it has to be molecular. And it just doesn't work. It seems these places are shaping their future. I think they need to learn the basics before trying the new.

In Keller's "Under Pressure" one of his chefs writes about how young chefs still need to know the basics of cooking before they can really use the new techniques. After all, without the basics, how can they know that the new techniques will deliver the results they need?

In Australia, Alla Wolf-Tasker from the Lake House restaurant (Victoria, Australia) said the same thing. She's concerned that there will be a generation of chefs who can use all the latest equipment and ingredients, but won't know how to make a good stock from scratch.

The thing is that Adria, Blementhal, Keller, Achatz, and co. were all well grounded in traditional techniques before they moved onto the cutting edge of cooking.

[Shinboners]

btw, you could add Bo Innovation in Hong Kong to the list.

This place was discussed on the Dining Forum in the China section of this board.

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=120510