Tacos--Cook-Off 39

[Emily_R]

Chris -- a quick question about your tortilla making... On the first page, of this thread, where you posted the pictures of the tortilla pressing, I noticed you got pretty nice clean round edges on your tortillas. Mine are almost always a little ragged. Can I ask what ratio of masa to water you use? I was always taught 2 of masa to 1 of water, but maybe I'm making mine too dry...

Tomorrow night I'm making some Rick Bayless tacos from the Recipes that Rock thread... Will post back then!

[Emily_R]

Ok, so tonight was taco night here. I made a Rick Bayless recipe for chipotle pork tenderloin tacos with a sun-dried tomato salsa... Sigh. Hated the recipe. First thought the chipotle puree totally overpowered the mild flavor of the pork tenderloin. Then actually had to throw out the salsa because I just thought it was vile. Sounded interesting -- sun dried tomatoes soaked in fresh orange juice, pureed with some chipotle, then mixed with red onion, cilantro, and -- oddly -- black olives. But it was sour and bitter... Ick. Threw that salsa out and used my own home-canned salsa. Sauteed up some zukes, sweet onions, garlic, and cilantro to go with the meat on the tacos... I shredded cheddar, but that was a mistake as I thought it again overpowered the meat...

So end result was still tasty, but not the transcendent experience I was hoping for. Not to mention I'm still really wondering how you guys get those nice smooth edges on your tortillas... I tried a wetter masa mix and a drier one, tried smooshing them with a cast iron pan and doing it with a rolling pin -- no dice, still the kind of ragged crumbly edge....

[snowangel]

OK.. I'll take Chris's and Janet's tips and do some sort of braise.  I pulled up the CI carnitas recipe, too.  Looks pretty simple.

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Then, you could go with fifi's great idea, noted here, using cubes of crispy pork bathed in pork fat. These do make an awesome taco; very different from a pulled pork type o thing, but the Fahning family's favorite. BTW, you can crispy-carnita country ribs.

But, I do know that tacos are a go to dinner for our family. You can use almost anything leftover, unless one wants Intentional Tacos, in which case one does more than pull out some leftover smoked meat, leftover steak, leftover roast chicken, forks some other leftover meat into threads into shreads, adds whatever else one has laying around. A taco does not need home-made salsa, nor anything other than good meat, some spice (in my cast, not necessarily the thought of a coupla my kida) and some tortillas -- which can be purchased (and thawed from the freezer ) and some greens. Cheese, IMHO, need not apply. I've even made tacos for the family out of leftover poached salmon. Tacos rival frittata as The Best Use of Leftovers (egg, tuna or potato salad need not apply).

[jsmeeker]

I made Carnitas over the weekend. Used the recent CI recipe. I didn't use as much meat as they called for because I only had what I had. But I kept everything else the same.

They turned out OK.. I think maybe those country ribs i had maybe were not as well marbled as they could have been. They looked better then I remembered, but they came out a little dry. Also, I think I should have strained the cooking liquid before reducing it. And get back on the salt. WAY back.. The reduced liquid was VERY salty. And had big piles of the oregano in it. Another issue came with shredding and crisping under the broiler. Either my pieces were cut too small, or I really should have crisped BEFORE shredding. Might have worked better

Still, I'd like to take another stab at making carnitas. Once made, they are versatile. Made tacos with them one night, the next I cooked some rice and heat canned black beans and did beans and rice topped with leftover carnitas.

[Pierogi]

Here are some recent efforts, the first two pre-date the cook-off by maybe a week......I was on a taco kick, and serendipitously the cook-off appeared. I'm late in posting because, well, I had to beat the new & improved ImageGullet into submission.

These are shredded chipotle pork tacos soft tacos with Santa Maria beans and some barely visible cilantro slaw with garlic lime dressing.

Hard shell shrimp tacos with corn relish and mint-lime-yogurt sauce

Finally, these WERE made for the cook-off

Soft picadillo tacos (picadillo made with ground pork, olives, raisins and almonds.....YUM) and Rick Bayless' green bean salad from his "Mexican Everyday" cookbook.

All three were really good. I do love me my tacos !

[MoGa]

May as well join in the fray with my own recipe

Mediterranean take on the taco (soy española). I acknowledge and apologise for its lack of authenticity on every level.

And to annoy purists further, it's vegetarian.

The soul of this dish is the bean cake.

This is made with cooked kidney beans (I generally use two cans - feel free to cook yours from scratch). These are crushed with a fork into a paste.

In a hot skillet cook a diced onion in a couple of tabelspoons of olive oil, once these are soft and starting to brown add as much chopped garlic as you like (I suggest 2 cloves), as much chili powder as you enjoy, a heaped teaspoon of sweet paprika if your addition of chili powder was only moderate and salt to your liking. Once the garlic begins to brown pour the contents of the skillet onto the bean paste and mash together. Put the skillet back on the flame (medium heat) and add the bean paste mixture - flatten it with a fork and leave until the underside has browned. Turn the bean cake over and brown the other side. Take off the heat. It slices like a cake - spreads like a pâté.

Next step - warm up flour or corn tortillas (I sometimes make them from scratch, sometimes buy them), add chili bean cake to taste, add your choice of additional ingredients (sliced leaf, diced tomato, avocado or guacamole, grated cheese, sour cream, jalapeños... your call), fold and eat.

Quick and easy to make, extremely economical (the reason I came up with this in the first place) and pretty healthy.

If there are a few people eating I just cut the bean cake into wedges, put the rest of the ingredients into bowls, heat the tortillas and let everyone make up their own 'a su gusto'.

(I do something similar with Temakizushi - lay out ingredients and let guests compose their own - prefect for impromptu dinner parties or picnics)

Of all my food she's tried, this seems to be my Spanish omnivore mother's favourite - it's certainly the dish she requests most from me, and my father occasionally calls me to remind him how to make it.

Edited May 16, 2008 by MoGa (log)

[JimH]

No such thing as a "purist" when it comes to tacos. The taco is just a vehicle to convey food to the mouth, it can be filled with anything that's available. Your beans sound great and are close to what we call refrieds or frijoles refritos.

[Chris Amirault]

Well, I think that some people have some pretty strong ideas about what a taco is and isn't. This blog entry by Bret Thorn concerning Jesse Bajana and Fred Estrada, two chefs in San Diego county that Thorn talked to and ate with:

Jesse shared with me his philosophy about tacos, which was pretty straightforward: The tortillas must be fresh, the salsas must be good. And when it comes to fish tacos, they fish should be battered and fried. He said his step dad’s uncle used to have the best fish tacos in Tijuana, but he sold it. Fred brought out a bunch of salsas, along with guacamole and a carrot-jalapeño pico. He recommended the arbol chile salsa as the best one for the tacos, although he also gave a nod to his spiciest salsa, which was a blend of arbol, roasted jalapeño and serrano.

Jesse and I each had a beer (Corona, with lime; it seemed appropriate) and eight tacos. We started with carne asada, chicken and carnitas tacos. The carnitas had some diced pineapple in it, which Jesse had explained was common in pastor tacos, which is made in a style similar to Greek gyros: The beef is stacked on a vertical rotisserie and slowly roasted. Typically for pastor tacos, a pineapple is placed on top of the roasting meat, slowly basting it, and some of that pineapple is also put in the taco. I don’t think I’d ever had that before.

Having had great suadero and pastor (with pineapple) tacos last night at Chilango's in Providence, I'm happy to "settle" for trad in this cook-off.

Much more soon....

[JAZ]

No such thing as a "purist" when it comes to tacos.  The taco is just a vehicle to convey food to the mouth, it can be filled with anything that's available.  Your beans sound great and are close to what we call refrieds or frijoles refritos.

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I beg to differ. I'm not sure that I'm a "purist" but I don't think that a taco can be filled with anything that's available. For me, it has to have a Mexican or at least Southwestern flavor profile. If you use a tortilla for other fillings, I'm sure it can be good, but I'm not sure I'd call it a taco.

[MoGa]

I'm more than content NOT to call my taco inspired dish 'taco'. I also hope that I've given nobody the impression that I think that my recipe results in genuine tacos.

But I thought it was fitting to give a European interpretation of this very American speciality.

Especially as a dish from my part of the world is being worked over by those from the Americas (and seems fair game for anyone else who wants a pop at it) in the Paella Cook Off Thread.

At least it seems clear to me that I'm not making genuine tacos, whereas in the other thread....

[JAZ]

MoGa, I wasn't talking about your tacos -- I was replying to the suggestion that anything in a tortilla counts as one. Your method isn't exactly the same as what I've seen for refritos (and pinto beans would be the usual bean used), but it sounds as if the end product is a pretty typical bean taco.

[JimH]

I guess I should clarify myself. I'm not suggesting that peaches or artichokes as a filling would make it a taco but the variety of tacos here is broad and varied by the origin of the vendor. Stewed meats (beef, pork, goat, chicken, lamb), grilled meats (beef, pork, chicken, fish), beans. Tortillas are to Mexico as bread is to the U.S. If you did not have access to fish, beef, pork, chicken, goat or lamb but you did have venison would you not call venison in a tortilla a taco? Last time in Mexico we killed a really big rattlesnake, something like 12' long and as thick as my forearm. The local guide skinned it and his family ate it, wrapped in a tortilla it would be considered a taco. If we are talking what you can find in a taqueria in a city like Houston, yes a "taco" falls into a certain number of catagories just as a "sandwich" will fall into a certain number of catagories. Long story short I believe it's how you eat the tortilla, not the filling, that defines what it's called. That same tortilla can be used to make an enchilada. If I'm getting into a BBQ argument, then tell me and I'll quit.

[chefsteban]

No such thing as a "purist" when it comes to tacos.  The taco is just a vehicle to convey food to the mouth, it can be filled with anything that's available.  Your beans sound great and are close to what we call refrieds or frijoles refritos.

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I beg to differ. I'm not sure that I'm a "purist" but I don't think that a taco can be filled with anything that's available. For me, it has to have a Mexican or at least Southwestern flavor profile. If you use a tortilla for other fillings, I'm sure it can be good, but I'm not sure I'd call it a taco.

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You are right..it is no longer a taco, but now what dorks and the ethnically challenged call a "wrap".

[snowangel]

I made Carnitas over the weekend. Used the recent CI recipe.  I didn't use as much meat as they called for because I only had what I had. But I kept everything else the same.

They turned out OK..  I think maybe those country ribs i had maybe were not as well marbled as they could have been.  They looked better then I remembered, but they came out a little dry.  Also, I think I should have strained the cooking liquid before reducing it.  And get back on the salt. WAY back.. The reduced liquid was VERY salty.  And had big piles of the oregano in it.  Another issue came with shredding and crisping under the broiler.  Either my pieces were cut too small, or I really should have crisped BEFORE shredding.  Might have worked better

Still, I'd like to take another stab at making carnitas.  Once made, they are versatile.  Made tacos with them one night, the next I cooked some rice and heat canned black beans and did beans and rice topped with leftover carnitas.

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Jeff, a reminder to read the carnitas topic, and most specifically, the ultimate crispy carnitas post. I've never forgotten the wise words of just sort of forgetting about them. Hmmm. I'm having a small gathering on Monday to celebrate a birthday. Some realy crispy carnitas, fresh tortillas and a select few toppings just might fit the bill.

[C. sapidus]

Quick weeknight tacos tonight: ribeye coated with a garlicky ancho chile rub, grilled, rested, sliced, and served with roasted Poblano chiles and queso fresco. The grill flared up and the steak was more done than intended, but still remarkably tender.

Swiss chard tacos with caramelized onion, queso fresco, and red chile. This was easy and delicious – one of those mostly-vegetable dishes that are completely satisfying.

[Chris Amirault]

Tacos with carnitas, chicken, and lots of fixin's on the way. I'm surprised no one has mentioned pickled red onions (salt, lime) for their tacos. Not done out there?

Also, does anyone else have experience with a cilantro, white) not yellow) onion, and black pepper garnish? I had it on the US/Mex border in AZ once and have been addicted ever since...

[judec]

Tacos with carnitas, chicken, and lots of fixin's on the way. I'm surprised no one has mentioned pickled red onions (salt, lime) for their tacos.

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I'm planning to make a batch of Cochinita Pibil and the requisite pickled red onions over the weekend. I'll post pictures and hope it turns out good...

[Chris Amirault]

They're good, if untraditional, with carnitas, I think.

[jsmeeker]

Tacos with carnitas, chicken, and lots of fixin's on the way. I'm surprised no one has mentioned pickled red onions (salt, lime) for their tacos.

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I'm planning to make a batch of Cochinita Pibil and the requisite pickled red onions over the weekend. I'll post pictures and hope it turns out good...

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Tell us more about the method/recipe. Will you do it in a crock pot or in a dutch oven placed in the oven? Will you use banana leaves?

I made this one time from a recipe in Rick Bayless' Mexican Everyday book. I even made the picked red onions (those were really great)

[pickledgarlic]

We made Two kinds.

On the left are Lamb strips marinating in Shawarma spices, on the right, Lamb strips marinating in Mexican Chorizo spices.

Schwarma spices eh. I am a schwarma addict and have been on the experiment train of making them at home (as the one's found in Vancouver seem to lack something compared to the ones I lived on in my undergrad days).

I'm curious what your marinade is, care to share?

[judec]

Tell us more about the method/recipe.  Will you do it in a crock pot or in a dutch oven placed in the oven?  Will you use banana leaves?

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Had no time to get banana leaves and anatto so no cochinita this weekend. Ended up making puerco en naranja using pork shoulder. It was braised in garlic, mex oregano, and whole oranges.

Not exactly tacos but oh well...

I'll be using Diana Kennedy's Pibil recipe from her "Essentials" book with a dutch oven. No backyard hole digging for me.

Saw Bayless pibil episode on PBS and his pickled onion recipe uses lime juice doesn't it? Kennedy's calls for vinegar and a bunch of herbs/spices. I wonder which one's more "authentic," whatever that means these days.

Edited June 5, 2008 by judec (log)

[C. sapidus]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned pickled red onions (salt, lime) for their tacos. Not done out there?

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Chris' question reminded me of the Ensenada-style fish tacos that we made a while ago, accompanied by quick-pickled red onions, guacamole, salsa, limes, cabbage, and jalapenos.

[JAZ]

What kind of batter do you use for the fish, Bruce? Whenever I've tried to make fish tacos with deep fried fish the batter gets soggy and makes the whole taco fall apart.

[C. sapidus]

What kind of batter do you use for the fish, Bruce? Whenever I've tried to make fish tacos with deep fried fish the batter gets soggy and makes the whole taco fall apart.

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Janet, we followed Marilyn Tausend’s recipe in Cocina de la Familia – 1 cup all-purpose flour, salt and pepper, and about 2/3 cup room-temperature beer. Mix to the consistency of pancake batter, and then rest the batter for at least ten minutes. Dredge large chunks of firm-fleshed white fish one piece at a time, and deep-fry in small batches at about 375F.

Good luck!

[Dave the Cook]

This seems like a great place to try the Blumenthal-McGee batter recipe. It's got terrific staying power in terms of crunchiness -- I've even reheated fish the next day and it maintained its texture.