TN: Cabernets with food

[Florida Jim]

Pasta with gorgonzola:

1993 Fisher Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon Lamb Vineyard:

Good up front fruit and a bit of vinyl but not much going on here; solid flavors of berries and earth, little development, nice balance and it seems to have lost a lot of its once very tannic structure – its pleasant and not overdone; medium length, slightly drying finish. 13% alcohol and about $55 on release; no way.

Day two: somewhat better as the nose has lost its vinyl edge and the palate is a bit more layered – still no where near worth even the release price. It’s relatively simple, has little to distinguish it from quaffing wine and is/was grossly over-priced. It mimics a lot (but not all) of CA cabernets; if you don’t like them young you probably aren’t going to be all that impressed at age 14 (or more). Standard grade.

Nice with the dish but lacking any character or reason to repeat the pairing.

After dinner:

N/V Quinta de Ventozelo, 10 year old Tawnt Port:

I don’t drink much port and even less tawny, but I like this; it smells like brown sugar, nuts and liqueur; tastes of chocolate, crème caramel and new leather, and finishes warm, dry and vinous. 19.5% alcohol, imported by Saranty Imports and a gift; I’d buy more if it was reasonable. Thanks Evan.

Fried steak and red-skin potato salad:

1992 Sullivan, Cabernet Sauvignon Coeur de Vigne:

I deserve this . . . just when I make a general statement about California cabernet, along comes a glaring exception; aged cabernet nose but plenty of punch – blackberries, fresh turned earth, cassis and a spicy note, all penetrating and distinct; medium bodied, good grip, layers of flavor that follow the nose and add a chili note, lots of bright fruit here but it plays a part rather than overwhelms the palate; extremely long and grippy finish. In no danger of fading (15 years old in people years) and may well develop further and round out; quite a bottle. 13.2% alcohol and about $45, on release; well worth it.

Good with the steak, even better with the potato salad; really a solid wine with this fare.

Best, Jim

[Brad Ballinger]

Jim,

I enjoyed the note on the 1992 Sullivan. As you probably know, I open a 1992 every year on my wedding anniversary. Not really a clunker in the lot yet. Still to go are a couple of Diamond Creeks and a Fisher Wedding. Then the only bottles from 1992 will be Vintage Port.

Edited November 29, 2007 by Brad Ballinger (log)