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Roasting Pans


rgruby

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Ok, easier cleanup I guess.

But aren't you losing out by having less caramelized goodness forming on the bottom to make gravy from?

Just asking because a decent manufacturer 'round these parts has a non-stick pan on sale. I'm tempted, but wondering if non-stick might not be the best way to go for this application.

cheers,

geoff Ruby

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Ok, easier cleanup I guess.

But aren't you losing out by having less caramelized goodness forming on the bottom to make gravy from?

Yes. I hate the thought of nonstick roasting pans. Half the reason I roast is to get those pan drippings. And if you deglaze the pan, cleanup is always easy.

I've used every imaginable roasting pan, and have sadly found that the best performing ones are expensive. And hard to find. I like aluminum clad in stainless steel, and there are fewer roasting pans available in this material than there used to be. I also like low sides ... I prefer to use a bed of vegetables to a rack, and high sides inhibit airflow. The only pan I've found that fits all my criteria is by Viking (made by Demyere, I think). Clad pans with higher sides are made made by kitchenaid, bourgeat, and maybe one or two others.

Notes from the underbelly

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Another distinct disadvantage of non-stick roasting pans is that they're not safe for high-temp roasting, as the non-stick coating tends to break down and release bad news into the air, not to mention into your food.

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You really don't want to bring polytetrafluoroethylene (aka PTFE, aka "Teflon") above 500F. Because it will cause the PTFE to break down, which isn't good for the long-term survival of the nonstick coating. The "bad news into the air" referenced by phatj is what's known as "ultrafine particles," and these can clog the breathing apparatus of birds, killing them. Not particularly a concern with respect to the lungs of humans or other mammals in the amounts generated by a roasting pan in a hot oven or a frypan on the stove. Similarly, humans don't have anything to fear from ingesting any potential particles of PTFE that may find their way into food due to a degraded PTFE coating. PTFE has excellent biocompabitility with humans, and indeed is used in things like artificial heart valves and tendon repair.

The reason I wouldn't recommend a PTFE-coated roasting pan is that eventually the coating will start to degrade and the roasting pan will have to be replaced. Why spend money on a roasting pan that won't last the rest of your life? If cleanup is a serious worry, there are measures that can be taken. Some people line the roasting pan with tinfoil, although I think this practice limits the usefulness of the pan. Personally, I think it makes sense to get a heavy stainless steel roasting pan (some of which are made with a heavy aluminum base, and others with an inner core of aluminum -- not necessary but perhaps worth it if you can get a good price). When the pan has a stainless steel exterior, you can simply spray oven cleaner on the outside of the pan and leave it in the kitchen sink overnight. Any normal amount of cooked-on gunk will come right off the next morning. (Don't try this with anodized aluminum -- the oven cleaner will ruin the anodized layer.)

--

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For me, the most important quality in a roasting pan is its ability to conduct heat through the bottom at a rate that lets the drippings brown without burning in the time it takes the food to cook.

Of course, this is a pretty wide window, but some materials do better than others. It seems to be a factor of conductivity and also surface finish. Dark exteriors absorb radiant heat and tend to burn the fond. Thin pans conduct heat quickly and tend to burn as well. Ceramic pans often conduct too slowly and produce inadequate browining. This is where I've found the stainless clad aluminum to do well. It also performs well on the stove when you're deglazing. The two clad roasting pans I've owned conducted so evenly, they were useable as griddles over two burners.

Notes from the underbelly

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Slkinsey's advice is good. Unfortunately, cookware stores seem to want to shove nonstick or really expensive stainless steel stuff down our throats. A good pan that I use is Calphalon's stainless steel roasting pan, which is usually $100 on Amazon (and it includes a v-rack). It's heavy enough to let a nice fond develop and can easily go from the oven to stovetop.

My mother just bought a $30 stainless steel roasting pan from Sam's Club. It's gotten decent reviews and I'll give it a test run for the first time this Thanksgiving.

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Slkinsey's advice is good. Unfortunately, cookware stores seem to want to shove nonstick or really expensive stainless steel stuff down our throats. A good pan that I use is Calphalon's stainless steel roasting pan, which is usually $100 on Amazon (and it includes a v-rack). It's heavy enough to let a nice fond develop and can easily go from the oven to stovetop.

My mother just bought a $30 stainless steel roasting pan from Sam's Club. It's gotten decent reviews and I'll give it a test run for the first time this Thanksgiving.

I second the Calpahlon SS roasting pan recommendation. While it's not that important for roasting, the layer of aluminum makes for more even heating when using the pan on a stove-top and makes the pan a lot more versatile. For example, due to its rectangular shape and depth, it makes a very good lasagne pan and a pretty good bain marie.

At the time I bought this pan I also considered the AC version and I opted for the Calphalon because of the aluminum layer. The old AC roaster, as reviewed by Cook's Illustrated, featured the triple-layered construction, but I guess the margin is better without it.

Forget the whole idea of a non-stick roasting pan. It's about as useful as a non-stick coated stock pot. Sure it will make clean up a snap... until you have to replace it next year.

Edited by fiftydollars (log)
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At the time I bought this pan I also considered the AC version and I opted for the Calphalon because of the aluminum layer. The old AC roaster, as reviewed by Cook's Illustrated, featured the triple-layered construction, but I guess the margin is better without it.

That's right. Just to be clear, when I last researched these things, the All-Clad roasting pan was 100% stainless steel; no aluminum core. And it cost $200. Most websites and stores had the same blurb about the All-Clad stainless steel line having an aluminum core on all products, from the saucepans, frying pans, to the the roasting pan. I called the company and they told me that the roasting pan doesn't have it. Now, maybe things have changed. If not, I don't see any reason to prefer the All-clad over the Calphalon.

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Thanks all.

I have a really cheap (aluminum?) roasting pan at the moment.

I was hesitant about the nonstick (and passed on it). Hopefully they'll offer the non-stick one for sale sometime soon.

Your responses were definitely helpful in aiding me coming to a decision.

Cheers,

Geoff ruby

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I can also recommend the Sur La Table tri-ply roasting pan. It comes in two sizes; I think they were about $79 and $99. (They also have a non-stick version - avoid it for all the usual reasons.)

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This is the best one I've seen or used (actually made by Demeyere):

http://www.shopthevikingstore.net/product-p/29642.htm

It's the only one I can find with clad construction and low sides. I just ebayed my old KA roasting pan ... beautifully made stainless/aluminum, but the sides were over 3" high and interfered wtih browning.

The assumption with these tall pans must be that you'll use a rack. I don't like racks, so I want sides that are only high enough to let me deglaze without making a mess.

Notes from the underbelly

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