2 and 3 star food

[julot-les-pinceaux]

Thank you so much for this insightful post. I think I have narrowed it down to Le Meurice as my first choice. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks again to all

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Don't miss the chocolate and seaweed thing, it is amazing, with six or seven successfull flavours in the mouth. And let them know what you like, they have the best service I know and they know their food -- so the more upfront you are about your tastes, the more likely you are to get the best possible experience.

[Ptipois]

Hi Ptipois, lucky eater! Are you gonna review that meal or what?

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No, I was too absorbed by the conversation with my dining companion and I didn't even think of taking a picture. I'll gladly go back though.

[julot-les-pinceaux]

But you don't rememer a thing? Even one outstanding dish? Something Christophe or Alexandre told you? To my wife they did the "we have no bathroom but go in the café across the street they know the gig" thing.

[Dave Hatfield]

Hi Ptipois, lucky eater! Are you gonna review that meal or what?

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No, I was too absorbed by the conversation with my dining companion and I didn't even think of taking a picture. I'll gladly go back though.

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My point exactly! Who needs to take bloody picture when you're having a good time with your friends and enjoying your food.

Bet you can describe the meal perfectly without resorting to digital imagery.

Conversation, delicious food, taste, AMBIANCE. Not pictures!

[jayrayner]

But you don't rememer a thing? Even one outstanding dish? Something Christophe or Alexandre told you? To my wife they did the "we have no bathroom but go in the café across the street they know the gig" thing.

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I'll let Sophie off the hook. She was with me and I was there to write about it for my new book, published next April. And I second everything she says. I thought it was a delight in every way - but forgive me if I say little more. I owe it to my publishers to keep my powder dry. After all they are the ones paying me.

[julot-les-pinceaux]

My point exactly! Who needs to take bloody picture when you're having a good time with your friends and enjoying your food.

Bet you can describe the meal perfectly without resorting to digital imagery.

Conversation, delicious food, taste, AMBIANCE. Not pictures!

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I would agree -- I even wrote a post a few months ago about why I was opposed to pictures. But the fact is, no one reads you when you have no pictures. Since I started posting pictures on my blog, people suddenly started to tell me that it was well written. I don't believe that pictures are in themselves a good description of food -- sometimes they are. But if you try to express the singularity of a restaurant, well chosen, well taken pictures can help. Sometimes, there is no point in showing food pictures -- but something else that is more revealing of the spirit and singularity of the restaurant.

By the way, I was not asking Ptipois for bloody pictures (of fucking potatoes) -- but for impressions of her meal. No one has to talk about their meal, but when knowledgeable, attentive starts, it creates expectations, if not frustration. Isn't it the whole point of this forum to exchange experiences rather than blunt opinions?

[Ptipois]

I would agree -- I even wrote a post a few months ago about why I was opposed to pictures. But the fact is, no one reads you when you have no pictures. Since I started posting pictures on my blog, people suddenly started to tell me that it was well written.  I don't believe that pictures are in themselves a good description of food -- sometimes they are. But if you try to express the singularity of a restaurant, well chosen, well taken pictures can help. Sometimes, there is no point in showing food pictures -- but something else that is more revealing of the spirit and singularity of the restaurant.

By the way, I was not asking Ptipois for bloody pictures (of fucking potatoes) -- but for impressions of her meal. No one has to talk about their meal, but when knowledgeable, attentive starts, it creates expectations, if not frustration. Isn't it the whole point of this forum to exchange experiences rather than blunt opinions?

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Well sometimes I take pictures and sometimes I don't. It depends on whether I intend to blog about the place or not.

Likewise, most of the time I keep a mental track of the dishes I've been served, whatever use I want to make of that later, but I am not a high-end cuisine fetishist and that gives me a sometimes casual attitude. If I find my dining companion and his conversation the most interesting part of the experience, and (in the case of L'Astrance) in perfect harmony with the place, the cooking, the atmosphere, what I will retrieve from that moment is an undifferentiated, global feeling of happiness.

I also think L'Astrance, through the constant level of quality and especially the humility of its cooking, helps that kind of experience to happen. The food on the plates does not particularly leap at your face crying out: "Look, I'm cool!" So you may concentrate on other things and at the end of the meal you don't feel your mind has been hijacked by the chef (which can be an interesting experience in some cases, it all depends on the chef).

I think loving good food is, primarily, not an affair of recording things. It is first and foremost the ability to surrender to pleasure and the joy of sharing in the most nonintellectual, primitive, shamanic and cave-people-like way.

[julot-les-pinceaux]

That's about your pleasure, and don't get me wrong, it is important to me. But if you share some experience with us, it becomes about something else. Among other things, the pleasure we can have and expect.

What you just did, and did not do before, was very effectively and eloquently relating the experience you had at l'Astrance -- while starting a discussion about how food should be enjoyed. Thanks for that.

[roosterchef21]

Hi everyone! Heading to France in Spetember next year and have being looking at 3-4 major restaurants to eat at. Going to two 3 stars and two 2 stars. I need help making a choice about the restaurants. What I am looking for is romantic and more food focused than service although it is important. I want a balance between out there food (el bulliesque) to more traditional (hence Louis XV). One from each category in each star rating would be preferable (e.g louis xv and el bulli). Also in the 2 stars, chef's who are really pushing boundaries and is a 3 star waiting to happen.

I am going to Louis XV as one of my 3 stars. These are the other options:

Pierre Gagnaire

L'Astrance

Mugaritz

Michel Bras

Arzak

Le Pre Catalan

Guy Savoy

I know that there is two in there that are in Spain but they interest me and I want opinions.

As for 2 stars, Nicholas le Bec is my first choice. Not sure of many other places to try.

The options I have found interesting so far are:

Les Ambassadeurs

Le Bristol

Le Meurice

Mirazur

Thanks for your help guys!

[julot-les-pinceaux]

All your two stars are three stars waiting to happen, except le Meurice which is a three star period and Mirazur which only has one but everyone knowledgeable about food and who went there says it is a must go. Les ambassadeurs officially is said to be an "espoir" by Michelin and has a reputation of being one of the few players of the "best ingredients" league, with l'Ambroisie, l'Arpege, Gagnaire and maybe Le Doyen. There are tons of review on line so you can make up your mind (see for instance gastroville or chuckeats). Le Bristol is one of the favourites of this forum with reason. It has been waiting for its third star for a long long time and chef Frechon restyling and the room renovation may provide Michelin with an excuse to finally do so. It is very food oriented, very luxurious; but less spectacular than Meurice or Les Ambassadeurs. It is also more for food-lover, maybe less sophisticated but very ingredient and traditional recipes oriented. It is totally modern nevertheless, but hardly disorienting like say Gagnaire could be.

Among your 3-stars, the last two clearly are the least interesting foodwise. (still Savoy is a master showman and le Pre Catelan has that incredible setting in the Bois de Boulogne) Gagnaire and Bras are the popes of today's cuisine, they are unique. Gagnaire is more generous, surprising, rhapsodic, and risky. Bras is more regular and offers the charm of its outer space hotel and clear view. You can order DVD "l'invention de la cuisine" (w english subtitles) about both.

No first-hand knowledge of the Spanish but I know that Barbot (from l'Astrance) adores Mugaritz, can't stop talking about it. L'Astrance is interesting because it is unlike other Parisian three stars, a small dining room run by young men, without menu and with the best ingredients of the day each day. It is neither ell bulliesque nor classic, very simple recipes very masterly executed.

As far as romantic is concerned, I would vote for Gagnaire and le Bristol; both cozy, magical places, Gagnaire on the contemporary side and Le Bristol more 19th century.

Finally, a word outside your list to say that Roellinger is my favourite restaurant in the World -- see his website tu judge how modern and romantic he is. But don't forget to go relaxed, not jump out of the car into the dining room, or you will find it boring and ridiculous.

[Bueno]

L'Astrance without question. I can't stress that enough. Bras comes in a VERY close second.

If not familiar, I'd suggest checking out Chuck Eats -- I know Charles personally, and I'd trust his palate above nearly anyone.

Edited November 4, 2007 by Bueno (log)

[azlee]

L'Astrance without question.  I can't stress that enough.

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May I ask, could you describe your favorite meal at L'Astrance? Thanks

[Bueno]

Arzak: is VERY consistent. Elena is a doll, and runs her kitchen like a Swiss clock. I've actually only eaten lunch there (3 times). Each was a stellar experience. I can't imagine eating there for dinner to tell you the truth. Like Jean Georges in NYC, the room is particularly gorgeous during lunch service I'm told.

azlee: there have only been two. One was about a year ago; the other was this past April (early -- just after it got it's 3rd star). I didn't take notes, but if you have any specific questions, I can do my best to answer them. Stand-outs include his signature (of course) foie/mushroom napoleon with lemon curd. Though, it was FAR better the second time than the first. I get the impression it was being retooled somewhat the first time I ate it. The second time was pure bliss. An enormously surprising dish of fromage blanc whipped potatoes with lemon ice cream, pepper sorbet, the brioche remains the best I've had anywhere, every single mushroom dish I've been served (especially morels), turbot with curry.

In general, it is my view that L'Astrance takes risks, but far more often than not, comes out on top. It's exciting as hell when you know the "experimental" stuff will be successful and not leaving you wondering "what the hell did I just eat?” I'm of the opinion that Jose Andres in America has the same touch. I'm also of the opinion (though I respect the man with every ounce of being I have) that Grant Achatz is too often devoid of that touch.

L'Astrance shines with mushrooms, truffles, and seafood. Not so much with meat. The soups are always incredible, and the deserts are extremely playful, surprising, and glorious. And that foie/mushroom napoleon is one of (if not THE) best dish I've ever had.

And FWIW, my European 3-star tally includes: Astrance, Gagnaire, Bras, Arzak, Arpege, Mugaritz, L'Ambroisie, Berasategui, Fat Duck, Calandre and Oud Sluis. Next year's trip is to include revisits to: Arpege, Astrance, and Arzak. As well as Can Fabes and Akelare in Spain and/or possibly Meurice back in France. My goal is to visit them all before I die.

I shall not ever be returning to Gagnaire, and Mugaritz was fine, but didn't warrant a return visit. L'Ambroisie is up in the air for me. A few really shining moments, a few horrid catastrophes. And I have no desire to eat at el Bulli.

My eating in Europe depends largely on the financial success of the year. So, my schedule firms up once I get a clearer picture just how far I can follow my obsession.

Cheers!

[BackwardsHat]

Just came back from Paris today (still at JFK now actually), and I ate at Guy Savoy and Le Meurice (both 3 star)...

Guy Savoy is stil the best IMHO... Although Astrance comes in a VERY close second... Although I've been going to Astrance since it was just 1 star, so I'm a bit sentimental about those guys

BTW, how long are you going to be in Paris for? If you are doing 4 big restaurants, I hope it's at LEAST a 1 week trip...

[roosterchef21]

Just came back from Paris today (still at JFK now actually), and I ate at Guy Savoy and Le Meurice (both 3 star)...

Guy Savoy is stil the best IMHO... Although Astrance comes in a VERY close second... Although I've been going to Astrance since it was just 1 star, so I'm a bit sentimental about those guys

BTW, how long are you going to be in Paris for?  If you are doing 4 big restaurants, I hope it's at LEAST a 1 week trip...

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About 5 days. But we are in Europe for around 3-4 weeks. Land at Rome and stay there for 3-4 days, up to Florence and then Venice (2days each), train from Venice through switzerland (1/2 day for lunch if only 3 weeks otherwise 2 days if 4 weeks) then onto Lyon (3days). Pick up a car there and drive down to Nice/Monaco(overnight) (Louis XV... very excited!), along the south coast of france (3 days) and then either: a) get to Toulouse and head back to Paris slowly taking it all in or b) whirlwind tour through bordeaux region and up to Paris.

Once in Paris, 1 day at Reims, 1 Day at EuroDisney (the wife would like to go and we don't want to go to the US yet) and the rest all in Paris.

So we are saving most of our big restaurants for France. I am going to find a nice place in Italy somewhere though.