Fred Plotkin's new book? Reviews?

[pedalaforte]

Hi all. I just got the new edition of Fred Plotkin's bible of gourmet eating in Italy.

I did a quick scan this morning, and on first reading I didn't note much new or updated from the 1996 version? I went immediately to the Piedmont section, which I had almost memorized from the first edition by looking at it, oh, perhaps 5,000 times! I knew that section wasn't his most complete chapter in the first version, but I expected him to have rounded it out in the new one given that Piedmont has become so "found" (given, too, that it deserves to have been found!). So I was surprised to find that: Guido is still in Castigliole d'Asti; that Vicoletto still serves dinner; that Antine/Posta/Duomo/Renzo/Centro/Bardone/I Caffi/etc. aren't on the planet; that ... on and on and on. After reading most of the Piedmont section, I actually went back to the title page to see if my daughter (it was a gift) had bought the wrong version! Really, I thought I was reading the same book I'd read so many times already. And, in fact, I was.

I don't know. Maybe it's just me. I will use it to death, I'm sure. I'm just a little disappointed. I do know that it's tough to do justice to an entire country's food scene in one book. I mean, how much can one human eat! I'm not saying there's nothing there; I still see great places listed. It just doesn't seem so up to date in some areas.

I'm willing to apologize and eat my words if you folks think I'm wrong. I know Pontormo is a big fan, as am I in many ways. I like the guy. He seems to care about what I care about. And it's a resource for sure.

OK, too much stream of consciousness reviewing -- not the most fair style of reviewing!

What do you think?

Cheers

Edited June 14, 2007 by pedalaforte (log)

[John Talbott]

The only section I've looked at is Florence since I'm going there later this summer and only two restaurants were repeats from the '96 edition; in addition, there's a whole new section on enotecas, esp that are open in August, and tripe sandwicheries.

[Pontormo]

I'm willing to apologize and eat my words if you folks think I'm wrong. I know Pontormo is a big fan, as am I in many ways. I like the guy. He seems to care about what I care about. And it's a resource for sure.

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Disclaimer: I am an armchair fan, only. I've never gone to Italy to eat, though food definitely factored into other decisions that led me there.

I picked up a heavily marked-down copy of the first edition that no doubt anticipated the revision. However, I value its use as a reference on individual regions, specialties and good, pithy characterizations of the local scene, complemented by descriptions of place. I especially value writing about Italy that isn't mushy. I turned to it often during the cooking project Kevin and Hathor launched.

Therefore, what you have to say is of great interest. Perhaps Russ Parsons may have something to add.

[pedalaforte]

The only section I've looked at is Florence since I'm going there later this summer and only two restaurants were repeats from the '96 edition; in addition, there's a whole new section on enotecas, esp that are open in August, and tripe sandwicheries.

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I did note some of the changes in the Florence section, including the enoteca list. Nice, short list.

He pared down his first-edition accolades about Pane e Vino; still likes it. From my memory, the new version has Sostanza, Cibreo, Pane e Vino ... can't remember any more. I don't have the book with me. Iw as surprised he no longer included Fuori Porta wine bar.

Pontormo: I too like it as a reference for regional cooking. And, as I said, perhaps with a closer look, I'll be a convert.

Cheers all.

[John Talbott]

Fred Plotkin (who is in Italy) sent me a PM saying the following that I think is of interest to members and authorizing me to post it on his behalf.

Greetings,

Writing from Italy. I happened to see a link to the comment page about the new Italy for the Gourmet Traveler, so I thought I would write in. There are more than 500 new listings throughout the country. But my philosophy is that if a place remains good, I should honor them rather than punishing them for maintaining their quality.

The book had an intermediate updating in a British edition in 2003. The current has many dining changes in the big cities people visit most -- Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, Bologna, Verona and so forth. In addition, I have eliminated places that have closed or that I no longer deem worthy of inclusion. Because this big book is the same length, if something goes in, something else has to come out. ! There were some copyediting misses, such as not changing lire to Euros, and the Venice listing for the Marcella Hazan cooking school came out (they closed) but the header remained where it should have listed da Ivo restaurant. But this will be fixed on reprinting.

Unlike most every other guidebook, which is researched by a team and edited by committee, I do all the research myself and write every word. With the new editions, not only do I have to scout new places but must visit the old ones (always anonymously) to see how they are doing. In covering such a big country, things change constantly. I am now in Milan, because some shops on the Via Spadari recently closed and I want to update my notes.

The essays were changed only if relevant new information was necessary. But otherwise I tried to maintain the integrity and flavor of the original book.

I don't know if you know that my other career is opera, and I am here (and then Verona and Florence) doing t! hat too. But will also visit Trento, Bologna, and Rome.

Thanks for your support of the book.

Ciao, Fred

[pedalaforte]

I'm willing to apologize and eat my words if you folks think I'm wrong.

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And so I eat (my words, that is)! In fact, if I can edit them I will.

I like the additions to the Trento listing. The Bolzano listing kept my favorite place (whose name escapes me ... it's the long dining reference with the horseradish soup). I'll stick with my assessment of the Piedmont region, however, but respect the certainly true idea that no human being can eat at or review every place in that region.

So it's on to Bologna (and Polesine Parmense) and Piedmont this fall with Mr. Plotkin's book very much in hand. And I'll be certain to visit the Asti market.

Cheers

[John Talbott]

So it's on to Bologna (and Polesine Parmense) and Piedmont this fall with Mr. Plotkin's book very much in hand. And I'll be certain to visit the Asti market.

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Please report back because I'll be in the Bermuda triangle* of Italian food (Milan-Turin-Genoa) in the late fall.

*Once there you simply cannot leave. In the good old days when the Michelin published agglomerations around cities, the area was more replete with stars than anywhere else.

[pedalaforte]

Please report back because I'll be in the Bermuda triangle* of Italian food (Milan-Turin-Genoa) in the late fall.

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We'll be there Nov. 16-28. I definitely will report back about the trip. We're planning to hit some of the revered hot spots, but we're really looking forward to finding some more low-key, chummier places.

The owner of the place we are staying has suggested a couple that sound perfect, and another friend who runs cycling excursions in the area has recommended a couple more.

Be well and enjoy the fall travels. I'm sure I'll be searching for more updated info as our trip nears, and I'll share all I find.

Cheers