The Cooking and Cuisine of the Italian Immigrant

[Kevin72]

I'm not quite sure where this thread will go, but it did seem a nice capper to the project we've all been doing the past year and a half(!). Certainly in America, the wave of Italian immigrants, particularly from the South, at the turn of the 20th century collectively formed a style of cooking rooted in limited access to the ingredients they had back in Italy. This type of cooking formed an enduring preconception of "Italian cooking" that lingered only until maybe the last decade or so. There's certainly a dark side, lurking in far too many "red checker tablecloth joints" that even misunderstand Italian American cooking: buckets of garlic, hick, pasty tomato sauce, gobs of cheese over everything.

But there's also cioppino, Sunday gravy, baked ziti, lemon chicken, clams casino . . .

I'm fairly uninformed in Italian American cooking. I find the topic fascinating, particularly in watching the cooking and understanding of the cuisine "evolve" with differing waves of immigrants. Those from the South largely dominated the scene in the early 20th century on up through the 60s and 70s, when Northern Italian cooking seemed to come into vogue. Was it because immigrants from the North were arriving then? An effort to compete with French cooking that was sweeping the land?

This thread can be used to discuss that evolution. Or to talk about either dishes from Italy that were "Americanized" or new standards of the Italian immigrant. And I don't want this to be just about Italian Americans: how have Italian immigrants evolved and adapted their cooking in other countries if there is a marked community there?

[Dana]

Not sure if this is where you want to go with this thread, but here goes. Our favorite little Italian 'joint' here is owned and operated by immigrant Italians. In order to appease Americans, they serve about twice, maybe 3 times the amount of meat sauce on spaghetti than you'd find in Italy. It's a great sauce, full flavored and just delicious, but there's way too much of it for the amount of pasta. My husband usually pushes some of the sauce to one side, takes it home, makes more pasta, and combines it with the the leftover sauce for another meal. We even talked to the owner about why they served it like that. He told us 'that's what Americans want.'

By the way, the place is usually packed.

[Stevarino]

When Italians immigrated to the States, this is what they brought with them. I have never brought a tear to someone's eye when they tasted food, till I met Christine.

My friend, of Italian descent, wrote this;

Food in my family is a time for sharing, a time for being proud, a time for giving and showing respect, for bonding family together, and leaving wonderful stories and memories of joy.

Much food related memories still fill my heart from my childhood. My Nonni always told me, “Never make a pomodoro sauce without pork. The pork brings good luck!” It was only after many years that I realized what she meant. The pork made the sauce yummmmy!, and not that I was actually going have something wonderful and lucky happen to me...lol...but again...I agree...my favorite, and my best pomodoro sauce is made with a big piece of pork, seared, and slow cooked in the sauce until it begins to fall apart. The braised pork sliced thin, along with lamb, sausage, meatballs, Brociole; it is an intricate part of the table, by which I was influenced, by my Nonni!

I am the middle daughter and the fifth child born, of ten children, to my parents; a first generation, Italian born father, and my mother is of English descent. I am the grand daughter of Italian immigrants. My grandfather, Daddo, is from Abruzzi (Chieti), and my grandmother, Nonni, is from Umbria.

Like many immigrants, my Daddo came to America to establish a new beginning for his young family, leaving my Nonni and their three children in the care of family back home in Abruzzi. After working for three years digging ditches and whatever work he could find (even cooking himself), Daddo was able to buy a home in Everett Massachusetts, and bring his loved ones to America. Upon their arrival, only then did he discover that there was a fourth child born after he left for America.

After the first year in America, my Nonni was homesick, and missing her family, so they sent for her only sister, my Aunt Suzi (Suzzeta), and her mother, my great Aunt Domedica. My grandfather bought them the house next door.

My father was their second son, born the third child of eight. He graduated high school, and played trumpet in the school band. He was expected to marry an Italian girl, chosen by his family, to carry on Italian family traditions, and help my grandfather work his chicken farm.

Instead, my father joined the Marines, and fortunately, before leaving for duty, he met my mother, not Italian, but of English descent, and married her just six weeks later. My mother, pregnant with their first of ten children, moved in with my father’s Italian family until he returned from his duties in the Marine Corps.

During the time that my father was away, my Nonni made sure that this young English girl, my mother, learned everything necessary in order to continue the Italian family traditions of which my grand parents were so very proud.

My mother came from a family of great cooks herself, and loved to cook. After all, her father owned a restaurant in Lynn Massachusetts, Uphams Corner! My mother took to Nonni’s guidance with an open heart.

When my father returned home from the Marines, he moved his young family into a small, one bedroom, basement apartment. My mother had nothing but a two burner camping stove on which to cook, and yet, she made pies! Mmmmmmmmm....lol! This is a story in itself, and we have the family photographs to prove it...ha ha ha. Indeed, my mother was quite the inventor, as well as a great cook! Immediately, my Nonni approved of this English woman that married her son, for as wise as Nonni was, she saw the strength in my mother, Italian or not!

Every Sunday, my parents packed up the family and returned to Everett, to feast, to bond, and to share! My mother made sure that Nonni's grandchildren were all exposed to her Italian traditions with respect and Love!

When we visited Everett, one would find my Nonni, my mother, and aunts, all bustling about in the kitchen, each having there own duties and responsibilities, all guided, of course, by Nonni. But nonetheless, all in harmony with the fabulous out come...food...food...food! Antipasti, soup, bread, cheeses, meats, pastas, fruits, nuts, sweets; it was an all day affair

As I got older, Nonni would call me over, and give me small tasks at first. She could see that I would rather be in the kitchen, than out playing in the yard with my cousins and siblings. I adore the memories and her broken English, her smiles, pats on the back, and her hugs, rewarding me with a quarter at the end of our visit for my labor of love! Hahaha.

When Nonni would come to our house on Sunday, she would always show her approval toward my mother with a caring hug and warm smiles, as she saw my mother sharing moments with me in her kitchen. My mother continued the family tradition every Sunday at our home for all the days of her life, after the life of my Grandmother.

In the spring and summer months, we would travel to Billerica Massachusetts, where Daddo owned a summer home, and spent his most loving and treasured moments of his life, growing grapes for wine, raising chickens, and tending his vegetable gardens. It was a bit of Italy, the home he had left behind so many years ago.

I remember when I was a very young girl, Daddo lifting me up along with my older sisters and letting us jump about in the big tub of grapes that he would make into wine. I remember the huge platters and bowls of various dishes on the table, breads and spreads, and fruits and sweets! There was music and chatter, laughing and smiles. It was a warm and loving tradition of family and bond, a lesson that filled my heart, still to this day, and I carried on this tradition to my daughters.

As I married, and began to raise my own family, I carried on the family tradition with homemade soups, sauces, breads and sweets, gatherings of old and young, friends and neighbors family. I would mix my Italian heritage along with my English heritage in the kitchen, and my children looked forward to the dumplings and the Popovers, as much as they looked forward to eggplant and crostini! An important lesson that I was taught by both my grandmother and mother, regardless of the recipe, make it taste good! Goda...Mangi...Amore!

Any opportunity that I had to prepare a feast, I took it. Throughout the years I catered weddings and graduations, celebrations and holidays, my menus always filled with family tradition. Love and respect were put into every task with pride and honor.

Always with passion for homemade cooking, and delighting my family with delicious foods, I carried a dream, to some day honor my family and my heritage with a fine restaurant, La Panarda style, a gathering of others and their families, sharing and bonding, laughing and enjoying, leaving each person with their own special moments and memories.

Now, at the age of forty-eight, I have finally taken my dream to reality. Not without consequences, not without challenges, not without hard work! That is the way I was taught, that is my upbringing that is my pride! Loving what you’re doing, in truth, isn't really work after all!

My Grand mother, Nonni, and my mother, Eleanor, are surely smiling and supporting our truth, food = family!

Thank you for giving me this incredible opportunity, and thank you, Nonni, and Momma, for introducing me to this Love!

Sincerely,

CMP

[Pan]

Thanks for posting that beautiful story, Stevarino!

On a much more prosaic note, if we are to talk about the cuisine of immigrants from Italy and their descendants, we need to bring in all other recipients of Italian immigration, including Latin America (also Australia, etc.). The Italian influence is most obvious in places like Argentina, but it's also notable that if you go to a Dominican restaurant, one of the regular items is likely to be some kind of spaghetti in red sauce. For example, El Malecon, a well-known Dominican restaurant in Manhattan, has "Spaghetti with Chicken In Red Sauce" available as one of its specials on Tuesdays.

[Stevarino]

Thanks for posting that beautiful story, Stevarino!

On a much more prosaic note, if we are to talk about the cuisine of immigrants from Italy and their descendants, we need to bring in all other recipients of Italian immigration, including Latin America (also Australia, etc.). The Italian influence is most obvious in places like Argentina, but it's also notable that if you go to a Dominican restaurant, one of the regular items is likely to be some kind of spaghetti in red sauce. For example, El Malecon, a well-known Dominican restaurant in Manhattan, has "Spaghetti with Chicken In Red Sauce" available as one of its specials on Tuesdays.

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Well, that indeed makes things very interesting! I did see an article in Saveuer Magazine awhile back on Argentinian Italian. Im gonna see if I can find it!

[Pontormo]

Wonderfully personal story, Stevarino.

* * *

Two endings at the same time for fans of "The Sopranos".

Ever since my recent trip to a nearby Italian-American grocery store, I find myself intrigued by the relationship between Greek and Italian cooking in the United States.

I'd like to learn more about the role that new cultures played in altering the diets of Italian immigrants in addition to other forces we might not be aware of in the development of new hybrid dishes and food practices. We referred to some of these issues in the thread on the Spaghetti Code, but I'm still haunted by the idea of the US Government telling newcomers to stop featuring vegetable dishes in family meals and to incorporate more meat for the sake of nutrition.

The role that non-Italians play in appropriating and changing the culinary traditions of this particular diaspora are also interesting. Risotto as a side dish. Focaccia at the dinner table. Paninni sandwiches. Cardoons at Chez Panisse. Lasagna with dried noodles made in every state in the US. But also those who care about traditional food, who help popularize cardoons, make ingredients some of us never encountered while growing up common, etc.

[Kevin72]

To salute the Sopranos ending, a Sunday dinner.

We began with burrata with oven-roasted and fresh tomatoes:

Not a dish strictly found on the show, but Artie did serve burratta once (Carmela was unimpressed), and it was very Mario-inspired, which I think 'Mel would've appreciated.

Then onto the Sunday gravy:

The gravy mostly went into making the ubiquitous baked ziti:

No, it's not ziti, but penne. But hey, they were eating a big tray of penne at the funeral!

The meats for the gravy:

"Bra-jole" (Bracciole)

Incidentally, bigjas if you're reading this, I had the same garlic thing happen to me here. Weird.

Homemade sausage:

Pork spareribs:

We had on the side, not pictured, "Mario Batali's Green Beans" which I've desribed many times before: green beans braised slowly in olive oil, garlic, and mint.

For dessert, also not pictured, we had "sfuliadel'", sfogliatelle.

One I had actually seen the last episode, I threw out all the leftovers in protest.

[Shaya]

Kevin, that meal looks wonderful. This is really comfort food.

I have to admit I'm trying to avert my eyes whenever I see "Sopranos" - we are a few months' behind.

Incidentally, bigjas if you're reading this, I had the same garlic thing happen to me here. Weird

Try softening it on the pan with some evoo first!

[Pontormo]

What? No onion rings?

* * *

Perfect menu, Kevin. Judging by the sausages, it looks as if you've acquired some new equipment since 2005. Braciole were the first Italian-American food I learned how to make, so this is nostalgia-city.

[FoodMan]

Sorry...been away for a few days. Kevin that is a meal 'Mel would envy. Looks great. (and homemade sausage??? Did u pick up a new hobby like the rest of us in the Charcuterie thread? LOL)

I also made an Italian-American dinner to eat while watching the brilliant Sopranos finale. Will post it -albeit late- once I have some time. hint: KEvin stole my thunder with one of the dishes...

[Kevin72]

Sorry...been away for a few days. Kevin that is a meal 'Mel would envy. Looks great. (and homemade sausage??? Did u pick up a new hobby like the rest of us in the Charcuterie thread? LOL)

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I certainly used it as a guide when I was researching how to make them. But what a production! 4 hours nonstop! Granted, it was 18 lbs of sausage, but still . . .

[FoodMan]

Sorry...been away for a few days. Kevin that is a meal 'Mel would envy. Looks great. (and homemade sausage??? Did u pick up a new hobby like the rest of us in the Charcuterie thread? LOL)

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I certainly used it as a guide when I was researching how to make them. But what a production! 4 hours nonstop! Granted, it was 18 lbs of sausage, but still . . .

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wow. 18lbs!! yeah 4 hours (especially if it includes cleaning) is reasonable and the ends result looks great.

[FoodMan]

Better late than never. An Itian American Sopranos dinner:

Baked Ziti, only I thought I had Ziti but instead it was Rigatoni. I guess it's good Livia's no longer with us or I could've been in trouble for messing with her dish. Actually this awsome recipe is from Naples at Table.

Chicken Parm, served American style with the pasta on the side.

Cannoli, homemade shells of course.

[hathor]

We've hosted Soprano dinners for all 8 years, so the last supper was kinda sad.

Pasta con piselli

Pollo arrabiata

Chicoria con pancetta

And too much wine to take pictures or even remember what else was served!