e-fu noodles w/egg creamy sauce

[kangarool]

I found this link to something I’ve been meaning to try for some time:

e-fu noodles

I have 2 questions before undertaking, though:

1) do you have any opinions on the technique of the various stages of cooking the noodles? Sound right? The reason I ask is that in searching eGullet for previous posts on e-fu noodles, Fat Guy mentioned a few years ago how hard they are to do well (link). What do you think? The difference between this recipe, and the one Fat Guy discussed, is a final 'crisping' stage of the noodles, which sounds interesting.

2) Also, on the ‘egg creamy sauce’: in the past, whenever I attempt something with this kind of sauce, say Char Hor Fun, the recipes always say to simply crack the egg in at the end, and stir through. But I’m always disappointed, in that the sauce is rarely ‘creamy’ but more gluggy and too thick… not like the restaurants. Do you think this woman's technique of partially crisping the egg bottom, but leaving the rest uncooked, may help with this problem? The sauces I have with these noodles in restaurants are invariably better than those I make at home, even if I reduce the amount/number of eggs.

I suppose Point #2 should be posted in the SE Asian section, as this kind of sauce is more Malaysian/Singaporean, so maybe I’ll post over there…but any knowledge you might have would be great to hear.

[hzrt8w]

2) Also, on the ‘egg creamy sauce’: in the past, whenever I attempt something with this kind of sauce, say Char Hor Fun, the recipes always say to simply crack the egg in at the end, and stir through. But I’m always disappointed, in that the sauce is rarely ‘creamy’ but more gluggy and too thick… not like the restaurants. Do you think this woman's technique of partially crisping the egg bottom, but leaving the rest uncooked, may help with this problem? The sauces I have with these noodles in restaurants are invariably better than those I make at home, even if I reduce the amount/number of eggs.

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Kangarool: I am not very clear on your 'egg creamy sauce'. You meant the Italian white creamy sauce kind of "creamy" sauce - like Alfredo? You said you had it in restaurants before? What kind of restaurant? Chinese restaurant?

[kangarool]

whups sorry wasn’t very clear. I think it really is more of a Malaysian/Singaporean thing so should post there… but it’s often described that way.

‘Creamy’ describes the texture, not the dairy ingredient. It’s simply an egg thickener, and typically used in sauces like Ipoh-style noodles/Char Hor Fun/Wat Tan Hor, or sometimes used in a sauce to go over pan-fried (chow mein) noodles.

Here are a couple of pics, you’re sure to recognise it:

does that help?

[hzrt8w]

Yeah the pictures look familiar. In Hong Kong we have our rendition of the "wat dan hor" too. I don't know who was copying from whom. The sauce is basically something like broth + corn starch slurry for thickening. Then at the end (you can probably turn the stove off) add 1 egg or so. In Hong Kong the egg yolk and white are beaten so it comes out pure yellow. I guess they do it in MY/Sing without beating the egg so it shows yolk versus white. The egg is barely cooked but mixed well with the sauce. Then you pour the sauce on top of the fried rice noodle. Or return the cooked meat with other ingredients in a wok, mix it with the sauce, then pour the whole mixture on top of the rice noodles.

Then back to your original question: You said you couldn't do it "creamy" enough I don't know what that means.

[annoy_ken]

Hey all, great question, this is my favorite forum. Want to thank hzrt8w for helping me learn to cook chinese. I've been wondering something similar to this question.

Does anyone have a recipe for "wat dan gnaw" or "slippery egg beef." It doesn't exsist here in Hawaii. I've tried to order it in at least 7 chinese restaurants here and they all come out like "geen dat gnaw" "fried egg" instead. Could always count on NYC chinese restaurants to make great "fan hop" There's also the great "see jup wat dan gnaw fan" or "black bean slippery egg beef rice"

Thanks all,

[kangarool]

Then back to your original question:  You said you couldn't do it "creamy" enough I don't know what that means.

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I suppose the best way to describe it isn't in terms of 'creaminess' but instead in an even more subjective word: gluggy/glugginess. A bit sticky and thick and insufficiently fluid.... I want the egg and a bit of cornstarch to thicken, but my attempts when adding to the simmering broth-based sauce, go immediately from soupy broth to congealed-ness. In fact, if I'm right in guessing the root of that word congealed, gives another way to describe it - verging on gelatinous.

If you look at the photos above (not my photos btw, but the result I am after) you can pretty well see there is still a fair degree of soupiness retained, even with the egg added... with my efforts, you wouldn't have trouble keeping some on a spoon, if you used a spoon. It would kind of easily stick on a spoon and not spill over. And again, it's not because of the quantity of egg I use, so I wonder if it's the technique, and if trying that technique in the recipe (partially cooking the egg first before adding) might help.

After reading your post, hzrt8w, I remembered having seen similar dish in Chinese restaurants, possibly in Hong Kong, as you mention... its origin probably is Chinese, then, isn't it? And while I have your attention, do you have any opinions on cooking/using e-fu noodles?

That's the burden of being an expert, mate, you get all the questions!

[hzrt8w]

If you look at the photos  above (not my photos btw, but the result I am after) you can pretty well see there is still a fair degree of soupiness retained, even with the egg added... with my efforts, you wouldn't have trouble keeping some on a spoon, if you used a spoon. It would kind of easily stick on a spoon and not spill over.  And again, it's not because of the quantity of egg I use, so I wonder if it's the technique, and if trying that technique in the recipe (partially cooking the egg first before adding) might help.

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Ah-huh! We are getting closer.

Corn starch will thicken the broth/sauce.

Egg white will also thicken the broth/sauce.

(Egg yolk will not)

So to not be "overly sticky", you need to compensate. So if you use an egg, and you don't want it beaten, don't use corn starch. Try to pour the egg in and quickly break it loose with a spatula.

If you want to try the Hong Kong style, with the egg beaten, dilute the egg with half the amount of water before pouring it on to the wok/pan while cooking. Since the egg is diluted, you can use a little bit of corn starch for final adjustment.

Also: adding eggs is the last step. Immediate turn off the heat and let the residual heat cook the egg a little. If you keep the heat on (you said "simmering"), the egg will turn solid and you won't get the desired effect. So... cook with intense fire, add the egg, remove from heat.

I love E-Fu mein but never fix it at home. I don't think it would be that hard though, but maybe I am way off.

Edited March 21, 2007 by hzrt8w (log)

[hzrt8w]

Here is a picture of the "wat dan gnaw hor" (Fried rice noodles with slippery egg sauce and beef) that I posted on my foodblog recently:

This is essentially a similar dish to the ones posted upthread, albeit Hong Kong style.

[peony]

I made wat tan hor fun with abt 500 ml of broth, thicken with potato or tapioca flour before adding a beaten egg to make the sauce.