Washington Post Dining Reviews

[Miami Danny]

Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar-odd, no mention of any 'wine' until the last line-where Sietsema weirdly recommends the $16 glass of 2004 Turley zin-paired with a blue(?). Apparently, Mendocino 'prides itself' on both cheese and wine. Unfortunately, we are never told what they have. Which ones does TS like? Hate? We'll never know. Although I am looking forward to that 'rich taste of California' in every sip. Whatever that is.

Edited October 30, 2006 by Miami Danny (log)

[Miami Danny]

Solo dining puff piece. Must be a slow week. Nice to know that TS eavesdrops on his neighbors' conversations, though. And of course, they're talking about HIM! Anyway, a good excuse to shoehorn in Buck's. Apparently, they have a regular.

[Miami Danny]

Even more faux-snarky than usual, TS delivers the knockout blow to PS7's.

After a waiter suggests two small plates before the big plate, TS gets nasty: 'Do I see a bigger tip dancing in his head?'-which, BTW, doesn't even make sense-tips don't dance, especially in one's head, although occassionally sugarplums dance in mine. Aren't reviewers generally, and Tom specifically, always crowing about making a meal of small plates? Why the problem here, where it is actually a major part of the concept?

And I guess Tom is tired, because reading a menu makes him have to 'think hard'. Personally, I find it exciting to go through a new menu, esp. done in a new style, like PS7's. It's not particularly long or complex-so this comment puzzled me. It's not like the menu is so precious as to list the towns and farms where everything was sourced. I think his belittling of the chef's menu by saying he had 'leafed through a year's worth of every major food magazine' was a gratuitous swipe at the chef's creative process. Like shrimp and grits isn't a cliche?And when the cocktail list is delivered and the server remarks that, 'We make our own bitters,' what is wrong with that? Isn't that good?

Again we learn that Tom has friends, 'knowledgable wine friends' (I'll take his word for it), and although the 'Wine Expectorator' line was really funny (back in '98 when I first heard it), maybe TS ought to be somewhat wine-knowlegable himself.

I'm puzzled as to why the sleek lounge area was never mentioned, as I think it is a VERY important part of PS7's-great beers, nice wines by the glass, and the perfect upscale bar menu of small plates. Odd, esp. since they are located near the theatre/Verizon Center, etc., in 'trendy' Penn Quarter (BTW, if you have to call a neighborhood 'trendy', it isn't.)

And I don't know HOW a party of twelve could be noisy in a restaurant, but why does Tom care? I'm sure they were all talking about him! (see last week)

Note to critic-if a restaurant kitchen is looking like an operating room to you, I think Dr. Freud is calling you.

[Miami Danny]

The problem with reviewing Johnny's, is that in Dupont, it was a neighborhood joint, and now it's a big barn on the Hill. Maybe what seemed charming and forgivable on P St, just seems ordinary on N.Capitol St. So I can forgive Tom his lack of enterprise in this one. There are so many cliches that I injured my eyeballs in the repeated rolling of them. My main question is-Why does he not identify Ann Cashion? Is she not one of the most gifted and important chefs in DC? And who is John Fulchino-should we know him? (I mean, he IS 'affable'. I LIKE affable.) BTW, do we know if Cashion is cooking here (I'm assuming not, but then no chef of the old Johnny's is mentioned, either), and if not, why isn't the chef mentioned? TS glorifies the pastry chef! (She's supposedly 'inspired NASCAR-esque devotion'-I guess her cakes and pies come with a can of Skoal!)

Keeping with the NASCAR theme, here are the 'wrecks':

Lap#1:You might want to mention that the 'mostly-crab' (more than 50%?-thank god!) crab cakes, which are as 'light and luscious' as ever (whatever that means), are $26.50 at lunch, and are as big as marbles. Ok, they do come with a 'sprightly tartar sauce', and a 'sassy vinaigrette' (sorry, it had to be done), but maybe a better description of this ubiqitous dish might be helpful...other than that they're 'mostly-crab'. Although I suppose that's better than 'mostly-filler'.

Lap#2: Who cares about the soft-shells, including where they came from, if they're not going to be on the menu again for six months? Save it for the spring, Tom. (Don't worry, fifty bucks says he will.) And why pick on the server for 'misinforming' on said soft-shells, if TS isn't going to educate us on their provenance? Maybe he doesn't know, either? Or maybe he's saving THAT for the spring.

Lap#3:If you are going to mention only one wine per review, and claim it as 'rare', please include the price and the vintage. Not including the vintage makes any discerning wine lover cringe, and is just another example of Tom's casual treatment of wine lists (or it could just be laziness. You be the judge.). "The choices from Europe are especially appealing, in terms of both variety and value." Wow, I really learned a LOT from that. I think if you are going to 'promise' 'really good drinking', you really ought to mention a couple of specific wines/prices/countries-I mean, I think Europe's a great continent, but c'mon-that reads like a bad Zagat review.

Checkered Flag:I'm begging you, please, please...stop saying 'slurp'. Promising us 'really good slurping' is not a big plus for me. Unless, of course, you're referring to Southern Comfort, y'all.

[hjshorter]

And who is John Fulchino-should we know him?

He is the reason Johnny's is called Johnny's. Nothing new there.

  TS glorifies the pastry chef!

The pastry chef new, and highly regarded, and so worth mentioning. Edited November 25, 2006 by hjshorter (log)

[Miami Danny]

And who is John Fulchino-should we know him?

He is the reason Johnny's is called Johnny's. Nothing new there.

  TS glorifies the pastry chef!

The pastry chef new, and highly regarded, and so worth mentioning.

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Lap#4"...namesake, John Fulchino..." I got that. He's a namesake. That's what he is. If that's enough for you, you probably know who he is. I don't learn anything else about the guy from the review. Other than, as I said, that he's 'affable'.

Lap#5:My point was that he goes on and on about the pastry chef for two paragraphs, but never explains who Ann Cashion is, and she is perhaps one of the top five most important chefs in DC.

[Miami Danny]

'Ask Tom' gets more exciting every week! In this week's episode, a hostess, following the policy of a restaurant, refuses to seat an incomplete party. Upon consulting with a superior, he directs her to seat the party. She proceeds to seat the party. The end.

Tom's interpretation:The hostess missed a chance to charm them.

Mumon says:People who complain about being kept waiting for ten minutes can not be charmed, only pitied.

[hjshorter]

Lap#5:My point was that he goes on and on about the pastry chef for two paragraphs, but never explains who Ann Cashion is, and she is perhaps one of the top five most important chefs in DC.

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Feeding trolls is tiresome but here goes...My point, and this is not the only board I have made it on, is that this is not a new restaurant. It is an existing place that has moved to a new location. It has been open for several years. Perhaps, just perhaps, Tom believes that many of his readers might already be familiar with it? And maybe, just maybe, his readers might know who Ann Cashion is already?

It's nice of eGullet to give you your own on little soapbox to stand on.

Edited November 27, 2006 by hjshorter (log)

[Miami Danny]

It's nice of eGullet to give you your own on little soapbox to stand on.

And nice of you to take the time to try to burn it down!

[nymerical2]

Just wondered how TS or some other food writer has burned you.

[dinwiddie]

Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar-odd, no mention of any 'wine' until the last line-where Sietsema weirdly recommends the $16 glass of 2004 Turley zin-paired with a blue(?).  Apparently, Mendocino 'prides itself' on both cheese and wine.  Unfortunately, we are never told what they have.  Which ones does TS like?  Hate?  We'll never know.  Although I am looking forward to that 'rich taste of California' in every sip.  Whatever that is.

←

I think Tom, rightfully so, leaves the discussion about wines to Ben Giliberti.

[Miami Danny]

Edited

Edited November 29, 2006 by Miami Danny (log)

[Miami Danny]

Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar-odd, no mention of any 'wine' until the last line-where Sietsema weirdly recommends the $16 glass of 2004 Turley zin-paired with a blue(?).  Apparently, Mendocino 'prides itself' on both cheese and wine.  Unfortunately, we are never told what they have.  Which ones does TS like?  Hate?  We'll never know.  Although I am looking forward to that 'rich taste of California' in every sip.  Whatever that is.

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I think Tom, rightfully so, leaves the discussion about wines to Ben Giliberti.

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Are you suggesting that the Washington Post Dining critc is not qualified to discuss a wine list?

[Miami Danny]

Just wondered how TS or some other food writer has burned you.

←

Never been burned, and I've always gotten very positive reviews.

[Miami Danny]

Now that Sietsema is reviewing restaurants after one visit, are we about to see the demise of the 'classic' major metropolitan 'important' dining review in DC? His mini-review of BLT Steak dismisses their New York strip after one taste, and he never even mentions any other meats on the menu. I think this is a big mistake, as it devalues (what's left of) the Post imprimatur, and waters down Tom's future 'big' review. It also kind of kills the argument for waiting a few months/meals before reviewing a place, if one of the main guys in town isn't even doing it anymore.

[Miami Danny]

Tom's Postcard (3 mini-reviews for the Travel section)-In Miami, TS recommends a museum gift shop cafe. Now, I'm not saying Miami is a world-class dining hot-spot like DC, but I can think of twenty new or off-the-beaten-path spots where you can get a great meal, and this is the one South Beach hot spot he chooses. I'm sure it's just fine, but this is institutionsl catering, nothing more. Very strange.

Michy's and Brana are no-brainers.

BTW, Tom claims he pays for all 'Postcard'-related expenses. Maybe that's why he ended up at Dynamo.

Edited December 3, 2006 by Miami Danny (log)

[lackadaisi]

Tom's Postcard (3 mini-reviews for the Travel section)-In Miami, TS recommends a museum gift shop cafe.  Now, I'm not saying Miami is a world-class dining hot-spot like DC, but I can think of twenty new or off-the-beaten-path spots where you can get a great meal, and this is the one South Beach hot spot he chooses. I'm sure it's just fine, but this is institutionsl catering, nothing more.  Very strange.   

Michy's and Brana are no-brainers.

BTW, Tom claims he pays for all 'Postcard'-related expenses.  Maybe that's why he ended up at Dynamo.

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Have you tried it? It's not clear from your comments. Maybe it really is notable for not having institutional catering. I would applaud any snapshot of DC that includes Mitsitam. Not the best food in DC by far but certainly extremely useful and quite notable.

[Miami Danny]

Tom's Postcard (3 mini-reviews for the Travel section)-In Miami, TS recommends a museum gift shop cafe.  Now, I'm not saying Miami is a world-class dining hot-spot like DC, but I can think of twenty new or off-the-beaten-path spots where you can get a great meal, and this is the one South Beach hot spot he chooses. I'm sure it's just fine, but this is institutionsl catering, nothing more.  Very strange.   

Michy's and Brana are no-brainers.

BTW, Tom claims he pays for all 'Postcard'-related expenses.  Maybe that's why he ended up at Dynamo.

←

Have you tried it? It's not clear from your comments. Maybe it really is notable for not having institutional catering. I would applaud any snapshot of DC that includes Mitsitam. Not the best food in DC by far but certainly extremely useful and quite notable.

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Yes, I have tried it, was there when it opened-in fact passed by there this past Saturday-nothing special. My point was that there are literally hundreds of restaurants, cafeterias, ethnic joints, dive bars, etc., within blocks of the (rather small) Wolfsonian (this is on South Beach); to recommend its cafeteria, would be like recommending the cafeteria at the Phillips (if there was one-try the crabcakes!))-instead of one of the many restaurants in Dupont or nearby.

Mitsitam, on the other hand, is in a different league for many obvious reasons

[hjshorter]

to recommend its cafeteria, would be like recommending the cafeteria at the Phillips (if there was one-try the crabcakes!))-instead of one of the many restaurants in Dupont or nearby.

Maybe a lot of tourists find themselves at museum cafes? And not to nitpick, but there is a cafe at the Phillips Collection.

[Miami Danny]

to recommend its cafeteria, would be like recommending the cafeteria at the Phillips (if there was one-try the crabcakes!))-instead of one of the many restaurants in Dupont or nearby.

Maybe a lot of tourists find themselves at museum cafes? And not to nitpick, but there is a cafe at the Phillips Collection.

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Tourists in Paris or NYC or DC, not so much Miami. And if some out of town critic recommended the Phillips 'Cafe' as one of the three most interesting places to eat in DC (try the crabcakes!), I'm sure some people might find that odd. Edited December 13, 2006 by Miami Danny (log)

[Miami Danny]

In Tom's review of Famoso, he mentions that he doesn't know who is cooking his meals there, because he can't 'poke [his] head into kitchens to see who's cooking.' I think the identity of the chef is vital to any dining review. Maybe when 'no one asked why we left so much food on our plates', he could have had one of his companions ask the waiter (or the manager) who was cooking in the kitchen. I was really shocked by this admission!

[Miami Danny]

"...chicken liver pate that tastes as if it came from the kitchen of a skilled Jewish mama. "

'Jewish mama?' This is highly offensive on so many levels. Not funny. Apology should be in order.

Edited February 11, 2007 by Miami Danny (log)

[Mayhaw Man]

whoops

[Miami Danny]

Great Parody Review! Thank you to Tom for channeling Phyllis Richman this week-even using the word 'buttery'. She's probably spinning in her grave. Wait, I'm sorry, she's still alive. In her cryogenic chamber, then. Devilish!

Also, I'm sorry, but anyone who uses the word 'gastronaut' should be summarily executed.

Edited March 26, 2007 by Miami Danny (log)