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Post's Fall Dining Guide


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It's still a fearsome foursome at the four star level, looks like I'll have to finally spring for dinner at CityZen. Citronelle was a no-brainer and it looks like Tom thinks that rumors of The Inn at Little Washington's demise are premature.

Blue Duck -- just six months old or so -- appears to be this year's phenom, rocketing into the big leagues, along with Ray's the (Instant) Classics, around for only two. Apparently in this game old dogs not only learn new tricks, they do them better than the new dogs. (Both McBride at Blue Duck and Landrum at Ray's have notched significant successes before). Also new-ish in in the "Hot Spots" category with (among others) our new "official" Best Indian, Rasika, and a rejuvenated Blacks.

In the "Ethnic Standard Bearers," I still think that the restaurant next door to Four Sisters, Viet Royale, is a noticably better spot, but maybe, this time, everybody else in the world isn't wrong. Just this time. :wink: Seeing El Chalan mentioned reminds me of my friend who dated the waiter there, the guy with the long pinkie nail who gave us all pisco sours free. What on earth would a straight Peruvian be doing with a long pinkie nail like that? PS, does Belgian really count as "ethnic?" If so, why not the three-star Marcel's instead of the two-and-a-half star frites factory Mannequin Pis?

New Chef Nathan Beuachamp ably fills local legend Ris LaCost's clogs, keeping 1789 a three-star "old reliable." (Whither Marcel's?) Vidalia, Kinkaid's and Obelisk all seem to have come through what some saw as mid-life crises, the first two with the help of significant plastic surgery. I Loved Vidalia when I was there with Sconz recently. I don't get to Obelisk much but on my last trip I was impressed not just by the food but by the gracious welcome-- my wife and I showed up spontaneously and ill-clad-edly after a movie we'd wanted to see sold out. We inhereted a canceled six-top in the center of the room were treated kings despite our decidedly more plebian appearances.

All the girls and some of the boys tell me that Johnny Monis at Komi is a "chef to watch" whethers he's behind the line or not. There ain't no barbecue in the Greek-Med kitchen, but he is sure 'nuff smokin' -- Wahingtonian Magizines "50 Most Beautiful Washingtonians 3-stars in the Dining Guide in the same year.

Tune into eGullet next week and ask Chef Jose Andres what it's like to have not one, not two, but three restaurants in the Dining Guide, including the groundbreaking tapas joint (with Andres' Tapas cookbook displayed prominently in the dining room) and "delicious deal" Jaleo. The other two-timer on that list: Landrum and Rays. The other Andres' restaurants on the other lists? Cafe Atlantica, with "chef to watch" Katsuya Fukushima (almost as cute as Monis -- I think my wife chose these guys) and "Washington Original" Minibar.

My favorite pick of the issue? The Hitching Post in "neighborhood treaures" which, until yesterday, was favorite undiscovered place. Also Montmartre, for years the only decent restaurant on the Hill. And also Cashion's, since I have a gift certificate for Cashions and I don't want Ann to spit in my soup for not mentioning her.

Anyone else? Who got shafted? Who lucked in?

I'm on the pavement

Thinking about the government.

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In the "Ethnic Standard Bearers," I still think that the restaurant next door to Four Sisters, Viet Royale, is a noticably better spot, but maybe, this time, everybody else in the world isn't wrong. Just this time. :wink: Seeing El Chalan mentioned reminds me of my friend who dated the waiter there, the guy with the long pinkie nail who gave us all pisco sours free.  What on earth would a straight Peruvian be doing with a long pinkie nail like that?  PS, does Belgian really count as "ethnic?"  If so, why not the three-star Marcel's instead of the two-and-a-half star frites factory Mannequin Pis?

New Chef Nathan Beuachamp ably fills local legend Ris LaCost's clogs, keeping 1789 a three-star "old reliable."  (Whither Marcel's?)

Yeah, yeah, I like Marcel's too (that boudin blanc!), but it doesn't have the casual party vibe of Le Mannequin Pis--and I'm sure that's why LMP made the "ethnic standard bearers" list. Personally, I acknowledge the food is better at Marcel's, but I'd rather go to LMP for moules et frites. It's just more fun there, imo.

I was pleased to see A&J getting its due, seeing as how I have been a total whore for the Rockville location for many years now. I wonder if Corduroy is getting the shaft when it's categorized as a "Delicious Deal"--yes, it is a delicious deal, but to me it's much more than that on many levels...it could reside in at least three other categories on Tom's list.

I am totally unsurprised at Blue Duck's prominence on the list. Anybody else who has seen Chef Brian McBride cook close-up knows why. I'm glad he's having the chance to showcase his skills in a new setting, because I think he's one of the most talented chefs in town.

I think reading the guide online is a different experience from the paper edition, so I look forward to getting the Post Magazine tomorrow. I look forward to many pretty pix to go with the text, and a chance to read all the reviews straight through.

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I suspect that the list is not available on-line or it would have been linked to (did I miss it?) Corduroy only got "delicious deal"? That severely understates its worth as the food is fantastic without qualification for value.

Where was Brian McBride involved prior to Blue Duck?

I thought Vidalia excellent as well, Charles. The company wasn't too shabby either.

There are definitely some places in DC I need to return to.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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I suspect that the list is not available on-line or it would have been linked to (did I miss it?) Corduroy only got "delicious deal"?  That severely understates its worth as the food is fantastic without qualification for value.

Where was Brian McBride involved prior to Blue Duck?

I thought Vidalia excellent as well, Charles. The company wasn't too shabby either.

There are definitely some places in DC I need to return to.

Brian McBride was at Melrose, which was exactly where Blue Duck is now.

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I suspect that the list is not available on-line or it would have been linked to (did I miss it?) Corduroy only got "delicious deal"?  That severely understates its worth as the food is fantastic without qualification for value.

Where was Brian McBride involved prior to Blue Duck?

I thought Vidalia excellent as well, Charles. The company wasn't too shabby either.

There are definitely some places in DC I need to return to.

Brian McBride was at Melrose, which was exactly where Blue Duck is now.

Thanks. I am not familiar with his work, although it sounds like I should be.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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Overall, I like the dining guide. You can't put everyone in and I think Tom did a pretty good job of deciding some categories to use to give an overall view of the dining scene in DC and the surrounding area. You can quibble over the categories, but hey it is his guide. I would have liked to see an Ethiopian restaurant in the ethnic section, seeing how it is such a major part of the ethnic dining scene in DC. As to MP instead of Marcel's, I think MP is a better representation of "regular" Belgian fare while Marcel's is much more a "fine dining" restaurant. I love them both, but for different reasons.

I'm not a big fan of A&J but that is more a matter of personal taste than anything else. If I had to choose, I'd have picked Joe's Noodle House over A&J. I'd have liked to see Urban BBQ listed somewhere, (ethnic maybe) but there are just too many restaurants for them all to make it.

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Great list... but if you read Tom's weekly chats you kinda already knew who was going to make it... don't get me wrong though, I love his chats.

I need to get to CityZen... anniversary is coming up...

I ate at David Craig's recently and I have to say it was splendid... glad to see it made the list. Between David Craig's and Blacks I think it's fair to say Bethesda is worth the trip again.

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