StarChefs International Chefs Congress

[Pan]

Those feuilles croquants, I guess they'd be called, are very impressive to look at!

[tan319]

That's my kind of cooking.

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ditto!

What's in the Paco?

Thanks in advance and thanks again 'doc for some outstanding work!

[docsconz]

That's my kind of cooking.

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ditto!

What's in the Paco?

Thanks in advance and thanks again 'doc for some outstanding work!

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I'm not sure there was anything special in the Pacojet onstage as it was used just to demonstrate the technique. The Pacojet people were doing demonstrations with samples in the Exhibits area. They used a number of different ingredients.

[docsconz]

Sam Mason - The Use of Hydrocolloids and Non-Traditional Ingredients in Desserts

I have been quite fortunate to have enjoyed Sam Mason's desserts on a number of occassions at WD-50. They have always been, imaginative, unique, beautiful and above all delicious. Sam is known for using new techniques and ingredients atypical for the pastry pantryand for using them extremely well. He is currently at work readying his new restaurant at which he will prepare both savory and sweet ends of the menu. I suspect that given his history there will be some surprises along the way in what exists in either category.

I missed the start of Sam's demo, but was there in time to photograph some of the technique that he used. Unfortunately, I missed the gyst of the description of what he was doing.

Sam, Ted or anyone else with a firmer handle on the techniques that Sam was using, please feel free to describe what I photographed as I do not think that I can do it justice. All I know is that I am very much looking forward to dining at Sam's restaurant when it opens.

[molto e]

Doc,

Great report...I know you had a blast covering this event. Your picture of Liebrandt's Demo plate is a beautiful shot. During Albert Adria's demo did he discuss American chefs use of modern technique vs. Spanish chefs? I heard something secondhand today and was wondering if you caught this part of the dialogue.

Molto E

[docsconz]

Doc,

        Great report...I know you had a blast covering this event. Your picture of Liebrandt's Demo plate is a beautiful shot. During Albert Adria's demo did he discuss American chefs use of modern technique vs. Spanish chefs? I heard something secondhand today and was wondering if you caught this part of the dialogue.

Molto E

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Thank you, Eliot. I did have a load of fun. I hope the fact that this Congress was fun not only for me but for everyone else there I spoke with came through in the report.

I didn't hear anything like that. Adria did address the question of copying and basically said that they didn't care if they were copied. They are very happy to be upfront about their dishes and their techniques and they hope to maintain the fair exchange of ideas and techniques within the world's kitchens.

[abola]

This strikes me as the problem with many such conferences: they're ambitious in the wrong ways. StarChefs pulled together an incredible group, but seems to have done very little with it. I suppose that's inherent in the StarChefs approach to everything. Still, I think most such events could stand to learn a few lessons from IACP and Southern Foodways Alliance, where they try to generate new thinking rather than just put on a show.

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Fatguy, I have to say I disagree with you.

Starchefs put together an amazing group of the most creative, talented, and skilled

people in the food world and presented it for the first time in New York City in a grand scale. Worked tremendously hard at it. Could some things have been done better? Yes, and they will next year. As far as generating new ways of thinking, were you present for the demos by Albert Adria, Jose Andres, Wylie Dufresne, Paul Liebrandt, Sam Mason, and Josh Dechellis? All respect due to other food alliances, and maybe they should bring aboard in future the chefs that this congress brought.

Edited September 29, 2006 by abola (log)

[docsconz]

Davide Scabin - The Taste of Shape

Davide Scabin and Will Blunt, V.P. and Managing Editor of Starchefs.com.

Davide Scabin's, is an intellectual's chef. His discussion and demonstration focused on perceptual theory and its application to the world of dining and fine cuisine.. He and his crew demonstrated several unique dishes and platings that highlighted aspects of ergonomic form and dissociation of expected tastes, sensations and other sensory stimuli like shape and smell. This dissociation allows the diner to experience a dish in a new light and form. In his view certain shapes and presentations lead to particular expectations from the diner and a particular anticipation of the flavor of a dish.

Perhaps his most well known creation is the Cyberegg. A passage from the Starchefs.com Congress program describes the concept well:

Cybereggs were first created in 1998. They are the result of a research process, the summation of il gusto de la forma as originally identified by Chef Scabin. Egg yolk and caviar are packed in two sheets of cling film, creating a sort of double-wrapped plastic "agnolotto" containing air sealed inside. It is served with a bistoury (a small, narrow surgical knife), or one can squeeze it directly into the mouth. It was conceived to make people concentrate on the pure taste sensation caused by the explosion of the egg once it's in the mouth, where all the blended ingredients of the Cybereggs touch the palate vault, which is usually the final flavor receptor.

Wrapped in plastic, Cybereggs lack any sort of element that could stimulate the senses before tasting it. They therefore isolate our mental skills of analyzing a flavor, deceiving the unavoidable brain process which comes from our cultural background that is tied to the shape and that anticipates the flavor even before experiencing it.

Chef Scabin and his charming translator. Unfortunately I do not recall her name.

Chef Scabin's assistant, Alessio creating a Cyberegg.

Chef Scabin preparing a sample for a member of the audience.

The audience member happened to be Johnny Iuzzini, Pastry Chef at Jean-Georges. I never did hear what his impression was.

A Campari and Soda Cyberegg. I had the pleasure of trying one backstage. Firstly, it was a good drink, awell made Campari and Soda. The sensation was interesting and surprising. There was no scent at all when putting the Cyberegg into my mouth. As my teeth bit through the plastic there was a loud (to me) popping sound and a rush of fizzy, cool, flavorful liquid into my mouth. It was fun.

While intellectual novelty and ideas appear to play a major role, by all accounts I have heard, his cuisine is much more than that. His restaurant Combal.Zero is Michelin starred. Not having had the pleasure of sampling Chef Scabin's cuisine beyond the Campari and Soda Cyberegg, I look forward to some time in the not-too-distant future of visiting Torino to get a much more in depth experience of his cooking.

[docsconz]

Sergi Arola - Sardines Five Ways

Sergi Arola of La Broche in Madrid is originally from the Catalan town of Roses, otherwise known for its proximity to a certain restaurant by the name of El Bulli. Of course, Arola spent time working with the Adrias before being encouraged to start up on his own in Madrid.

Chef Arola focused his demonstration on the sardine, his favorite ingredient as well as one that he feels "clearly defines Spanish gastronomy". In addition, it is an abundant food item that is generally accessible to the masses (at least in Spain ). He continued to show five different preparations of the sardine.

Chef Arola prepping his sardines for the demonstration. While not bad, he felt the quality of these sardines were fairly mediocre. Ironically they looked to be about as good as I have ever seen retail in NYC. Nevertheless, they did pale besides those I have seen in Spanish markets like the Boqueria.

If you look closely at the photos of Arola, you can spot his headphones. Besides cooking, the other element of his life that he is particularly into is music. prior to his current career he was a rock musician and still maintains interest and ties to that arena as will be evidenced later.

Arola's assistant, George Mendes, setting up on stage just prior to the demo.

Arola discussing the sardine's place in Spanish and world gastronomy. He gave his demo in English.

Starting the demo he has his sardines resting within a bed of salt.

He stuffs the sardines.

Sears them with a blowtorch.

Heats the underside of the pan.

Prepares an accompaniment

finishes it.

and plates it.

George Mendes with the plate just before...

Chef Arola puts the finishing touches to it and serves...

the finished plate!

Taking questions from the audience.

with sam Mason immediately after the demo.

Sergi Arola being congratulated by his friend, Michael Stipe of R.E.M.

Mendes and Stipe. Apparently as Arola is into rock music, Stipe is into food.

Wylie Dufresne, Sergi Arola and Sam Mason celebrating a job well done.

The didactic elements of the Congress now finished it was time to move on the the Rising Stars Review and after parties.

[docsconz]

The Rising Stars Review

2006 New York "Rising Stars" held at Crobar

Each year Starchefs.com awards the designation of "Rising Star" to chefs in each of a number of cities who they feel are today's new culinary stars. The 2006 New York awardees are:

Mark Andelbradt : Morimoto

Makoto Okuwa : Morimoto

Franklin Becker : Brasserie

Gregory Brainin : Jean-Georges Restaurants

Tony Esnault : Alain Ducasse at the Essex House

Iacopo Falai : Falai

Paul Liebrandt : Gilt (less)

Tony Liu : August

Zakary Pelaccio : 5 Ninth and Fatty Crab

Alex Urena : Urena

Galen Zamarra : Mas (Farmhouse)

Pastry Chef Jennifer Giblin : Blue Smoke

Pastry Chef Will Goldfarb : Room 4 Dessert

Pastry Chef Michael Laiskonis : Le Bernardin

Sommalier Arnaud Devulder : DB BIstro Moderne

Bar Chef Junior Merino : The Modern

The format of the party was that each of the awardess were set up with a pushcart or equivalent arranged around the club, at which they would serve their own versions of haute cuisine street food. Each stand was paired with a specific beverage, the quality of which was uniformly excellent. Following are some photos of the pushcarts and the party.

The view from the entrance to the party.

I went to check my jacket and backpack and on my way back, tucked into a corner I discovered eGullet's own...

Michael Laiskonis, Pastry Chef of Le Bernardin serving

Unfortunately the Pastry chefs were tucked away into a back room. If I hadn't literally stumbled upon Michael, I would have missed him completely as I did the other Pastry chefs, Will Goldfarb and Jennifer Giblin. By the time I thought to go back, they had closed up shop.

Gregory Brainin of Jean-Georges restaurants was serving Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi and Wasabi Ices paired with Sake, Sato no Homare, Sudo Honke Brewery, Ibaraki Japan.

Galen Zamarra of Mas (Farmhouse) served tasty pork belly sandwiches. The Sunday prior I met Chef Zamarra at a pig roast on the North Fork of L.I.. He roasted a Flying Pigs Farm pig for a benefit for Slow Food. It too was awesome. I will post pics of that event shortly after I am done chronicling this one.

Chef Zamarra with my good friend, Joe Bavuso (aka "JosephB")

Iacopo Falai of Falai had quite the line.

...that should come as no surprise since he was serving foie gras cannoli in chocolate sauce and had to-go boxes too!

Tony Esnault of Alain Ducasse served luscious lamb lollipops.

Paul Liebrandt did a unique take on "Fish and Chips". I finally got a taste of his cooking. It left me wanting to return for more!

Who doesn't care to have a little champagne?

Zak Pelaccio's "fatty brisket" was a hit.

Sam Mason and Zak Pelaccio having a laugh together.

Joe Bavuso talks "brisket" with Zak Pelaccio.

Franklin Becker of Brasserie and his totally decadent Foie Gras "Hot Dogs".

Frederic Bau and Sergi Arola enjoying the party.

Joe Bavuso, Ruben Garcia and Juan Sole stopping for a bite and a sip.

Sole, Albert Adria, Mrs. and Mr. Ken Oringer and Frederic Bau.

Sergi Arola amidst Will Blunt and Antoinette Bruno of Starchefs.com

plenty more to come....

[docsconz]

The time came for the Rising Star Chef New York 2006 Awards. The winners were:

Makoto Okuwa and Mark Andelbradt of Morimoto,

Franklin Becker of Brasserie,

Gregory Brainin of Jean-Georges Restaurants,

Tony Esnault of Alain Ducasse at the Essex House,

Iacopo Falai of Falai,

Paul Liebrandt formerly of Gilt,

Tony Liu of August,

Zakary Pelaccio of 5 Ninth and Fatty Crab,

Alex Urena of Urena,

Galen Zamarra of Mas (Farmhouse),

Jennifer Giblin of Blue Smoke,

Will Goldfarb of Room 4 Dessert,

Michael Laiskonis of Le Bernardin,

Bar Chef Junior Merino of The Modern,

and Sommalier Arnaud Devulder of DB Bistro Moderne.

New York City Rising Stars 2006!

Some group shots...watch carefully

A few more portraits:

Ya-roo Yang (aka "Bond Girl") with George Mendes,

Albert Adria and Louisa Chu,

Alex Stupak and Johnny Iuzzini,

Alex, Johnny and a full-bellied yours truly (largely thanks to the work of Johnny's crew at J-G earlier in the day ),

Yours truly with some of the Titans of Dessert, New York or anywhere!

After this fabulous party, there was more to go as a large contingent left Crobar to head across the street to go to Bed. Yes, the afterparty was held at Bed. Unfortunately, I don't have too many photos fit for a public board like this, but there is one I can leave this document with...

Sherry Yard and Pichet Ong in bed at Bed.

So ends my documentation of this memorable event. I will be happy to continue discussion of this event and may add more detail to specific areas as it becomes available to me. Thank you for your attention.

[Pan]

[...]After this fabulous party, there was more to go as a large contingent left Crobar to head across the street to go to Bed. Yes, the afterparty was held at Bed. Unfortunately, I don't have too many photos fit for a public board like this[...]

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Those chefs party hearty, eh?

Thanks for all the great photos and reports!!!

[docsconz]

[...]After this fabulous party, there was more to go as a large contingent left Crobar to head across the street to go to Bed. Yes, the afterparty was held at Bed. Unfortunately, I don't have too many photos fit for a public board like this[...]

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Those chefs party hearty, eh?

Thanks for all the great photos and reports!!!

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My pleasure, Michael.

They do. I can't keep up with them. I crashed around 1AM. I know of at least a few who were out until at least 5AM.

[molto e]

Well done Doc, the finger food at that event looked great.

[docsconz]

Well done Doc, the finger food at that event looked great.

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Thanks, Elliot. It was.

Edited October 2, 2006 by docsconz (log)

[Nina C.]

Thank you Doc for such a wonderful and thorough report. I've been waiting for the end to add my comments and it just kept coming! But now that it is the end, I'm speechless. The quality of chefs, cooking, and information at this event is breathtaking.

Thank you thank you thank you!

[tan319]

Well done Doc, the finger food at that event looked great.

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Thanks, Elliot. It was.

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'doc...

way back there on post # 79 with Sam Masons demo I thought it was a version of his hydro collided creme brulee and the most recent starchefs.com mail out confirms this.

Sorry I couldn't post earlier.

I would like to thank you and Bond Girl again for the EXtensive documentation which, of course, foodgeeks like me can't express our love for enough.

And the chefs for doing what they do like the true badasses they are!

Starchefs pulled this off amazingly, it would seem, and next year I'm going to see all of you there!

[docsconz]

Well done Doc, the finger food at that event looked great.

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Thanks, Elliot. It was.

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'doc...

way back there on post # 79 with Sam Masons demo I thought it was a version of his hydro collided creme brulee and the most recent starchefs.com mail out confirms this.

Sorry I couldn't post earlier.

I would like to thank you and Bond Girl again for the EXtensive documentation which, of course, foodgeeks like me can't express our love for enough.

And the chefs for doing what they do like the true badasses they are!

Starchefs pulled this off amazingly, it would seem, and next year I'm going to see all of you there!

←

Ted, with luck I will see you there too.

You are correct about the creme brulee spheres. At the end of the demo he torched the plate and some caramel to leave a fitted dome of sugar over the brulee spheres.

[WillieLee]

This is a photo of the creme brulee beads. It was a combination of agar and locust bean gum dropped into a cold oil bath...

Edited October 3, 2006 by WillieLee (log)

[docsconz]

This is a photo of the creme brulee beads. It was a combination of agar and locust bean gum dropped into a cold oil bath...

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Thanks. That is pretty cool.

[tan319]

Thanks , Sam!

Nice to see it close up.

So, no Gellan, etc.?

[tan319]

Does anyone know more about Jordan Kahn?

He's credited as the pastry chef (former?) pastry chef at Butter restaurant in New York? post # 73 about Paul Liebrandts demo at the ICC

Thanks in advance!

[jkahn]

Does anyone know more about Jordan Kahn?

He's credited as the pastry chef (former?) pastry chef at Butter restaurant in New York? post  # 73 about Paul Liebrandts demo at the ICC

Thanks in advance!

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i'm not the pastry chef at butter, just to clear up any confusion. paul and i are good friends and he asked me to do the dinner and demo with him. i am currently the pastry chef at a new restaurant opening in chelsea this november called Varietal. i am formerly of alinea, per se, and the french laundry. my food will take an abstract, artistic approach to "modern/avant guarde" cuisine. if anyone wishes to discuss this further, i suggest we start a new thread.

thanks,

jordan.

[docsconz]

For those who may be interested there is a nice little highlights video on the 2006 Congress here. The same page offers an opportunity to purchase a full DVD of the event and provides a preview to the 2007 event coming up in September.