Cleveland Restaurants: Reviews & Recommendations

[sweintraub]

but nancyh, in your worldly, new york informed opinion, which if any of these restaurants would belong on a list of the top 100 in the united states?

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You have to admit, Cleveland having even one restaurant in the top 100 is pretty unlikely. A chef/staff capable of a top 100 restaurant is probably making a mistake opening it here. There sadly just don't seem to be enough clevelanders who appreciate excellence in restaurants at appropriate prices to keep them afloat.

[rockandroller]

Top 100, that's a tall order. Generally speaking, my inclination, were someone to ask me which restaurants I would consider even nominating to a list like this, would be to nominate Classics and Red. I'm saying that with the caveat that neither of these are places I have ever eaten dinner, as they are way, way out of my price range. I've had lunch at Classics but it was a LONG time ago, many variations ago. I'm basing my recommendations solely on what I hear from a variety of sources and reviews, both online and in person.

[rockandroller]

I have to add that I think that compiling a short list of Cleveland's "best restaurants" is not the same thing at all as those with the finest dining or ones that would make a national top 100 list.

If you want to compile a list of best Cle restaurants, that's another list entirely, and much longer.

[christine007]

I have to add that I think that compiling a short list of Cleveland's "best restaurants" is not the same thing at all as those with the finest dining or ones that would make a national top 100 list.

If you want to compile a list of best Cle restaurants, that's another list entirely, and much longer.

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Three Birds, in Lakewood, Oh, made Esquire magazine's list of best new restaurants in the country!

[cbarre02]

Coming from a city very much like Cleveland (Detroit) and working in what many would consider a top 100 restaurant (Tribute), I don't know that a restaurant like this has the possibility of being sustainable. Tribute true reason for success was not in it's clientele, but an immense private cash flow.

To be one of the best restaurants in one of the best restaurant countries in the world is no short order. To be one of the best, you have to have every thing. To be a great restaurant, you have to have ALMOST every thing. Obviously these requirements change for every type of restaurant, weather French, Japanese, Italian, Mexican, American, what ever. No matter the requirements the standards, the execution of them is what counts, plus the building, china, silver, Riedel or anything else; Japanese, American, or Australian Kobe; sparkling, still, or tap; raw milk or not; clean kitchen or kinda clean; is the chef trying for those 4 points in Ruhlmans new book; So many things... and don't forget about that huge monetary base that is needed; And for god sakes don't for get about desserts!

I haven't been in Cleveland all that long (February), I know that the same year tribute was listed in gourmet as top 50, parkers was listed right before it. Organic sustainable idealism is no doubt the way to establish your restaurant as on that care about what it is serving, and it seams that those at parker's know how to use the ingredients that they have strived so hard to find. That is a very respectable attribute.

I moved to Cleveland to be part of the opening staff at the new Lola space, let hope we can have a run at this.

[Jamie Valvo]

well put cory. I wish you guys the best of luck in your attempt. say hello to everyone for me please.

[rockandroller]

You know we are all there waiting and ready for Lola, we will do our best to support it and spread the good word of mouth!

[Michael Ruhlman]

thanks for all those replies. i haven't been to several nanchyh mentioned, haven't been to classics recently or giovanni's. i'd love to do a story on what the best restaurants here are and have the cash to do a good job of eating at and evaluating these places.

i agree that it would be tough to have a restaurant of a three or four star restaurant in cleveland because of financial reasons.

a big part of it too is the difficulty of finding really good and experienced service.

cory, i hope you like cleveland. and what's the word on takashi--i heard he was unhappy in vegas and was moving, is this true?

[sweintraub]

thanks for all those replies.  i haven't been to several nanchyh mentioned, haven't been to classics recently or giovanni's.  i'd love to do a story on what the best restaurants here are and have the cash to do a good job of eating at and evaluating these places.

i agree that it would be tough to have a restaurant of a three or four star restaurant in cleveland because of financial reasons.

a big part of it too is the difficulty of finding really good and experienced service.

cory, i hope you like cleveland.  and what's the word on takashi--i heard he was unhappy in vegas and was moving, is this true?

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Michael, if you need company to 'help you evaluate' these restaurants, you know where to come.

[mmmathlage]

Michael,

Let me be the first chef of a "mentioned" restaurant to extend an invitation to you first hand. I’m Executive Chef of The Leopard Restaurant my name is Matthew Mathlage. I challenge you to find a restaurant in the Cleveland area more deserving of national recognition than ours. I assure if you come to The Leopard you will not be disappointed and don't worry about being able to afford your meal, we have a great "best selling author" discount Sunday through Saturday. I hope this doesn't sound to self-serving, but if you don't believe in yourself who will.

Food is art...Art is life

MATTHEW MATHLAGE

[mmmathlage]

John Mariani is also looking for great new restaurants for his annual Esquire issue.

Basically we need to provide him with a list of very good new restaurants in this area that he can sample to bring him to town and while he's here he will visit other older restaurants and if they're good give them some pub too, seeing how he is a home town boy hopefully he will be simpathetic to our plight. Lets put together a list of great new restaurants we can give him and get him here!

MMM

[ronnie_suburban]

John Mariani is also looking for great new restaurants for his annual Esquire issue.

Basically we need to provide him with a list of very good new restaurants in this area that he can sample to bring him to town and while he's here he will visit other older restaurants and if they're good give them some pub too, seeing how he is a home town boy hopefully he will be simpathetic to our plight.  Lets put together a list of great new restaurants we can give him and get him here!

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. . . this is like deja vu all over again.

=R=

[NancyH]

Parallax is consistently mentioned by natives who have a similiar palate to me. It's been  recommended as a must dine when/if I'm in town. Johnny's Bar is supposed to have an above average wine list.

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We finally tried Parallax last night. While I wouldn't call it "fine dining" in the traditional sense (the atmosphere is very casual), the food was spot on creative, fresh, and delicious. Our table was right by the open kitchen and I was particularly impressed with owner Zach Bruell and his partner Jeff, standing at the end of the line, inspecting and finishing each plate before it was picked up by a server. Service was professional and polished.

We started with sushi - a Spicy Tuna Roll that featured tuna which had been tenderized - a touch I've never seen before with sushi. It was perfect, and didn't need any of the fiery hot sauce dabbed on the plate, though the hot sauce was worth a taste too. Even the ginger slices, which usually look and taste of packaging or rubber, were fresh and refreshing; I believe that they make it in house. Our companions had the scallop cerviche, which was a bit citrusy for our taste, but the components absolutely fresh and delicious, and an order of escargot, which I did not sample, but which got rave reviews from those who did. We also tasted a lobster roll and a roll made with cooked beef and onion rings (served together as a sushi "surf & turf") that was also very tasty. Parallax is only the second place in Cleveland that has served me sushi worth eating -- sushi that makes you sigh as you taste it because it is soooo good (the other place was Pacific East in Cleveland Heights).

Our entrees of Walleye wrapped in a potato sheet and sauteed, served with grilled asparagus, mashed potatoes, and beurre blanc were plate licking good. My husband never eats his vegetables - but he inhaled these, commenting on the crisp texture and grilled flavor. I even finished the mashed potato (which was just a bit lumpy - perfect!), so as not to lose a drop of the sauce on my plate (did I mention it was plate licking good?). Most important - the fish was absolutely fresh. Walleye has a strong flavor, and the moment it gets old, it smells and tastes old - I've eaten a lot of old tasting (or worse) Walleye in my ten years in Cleveland - this fish was a perfect example of what Walleye is supposed to look, smell and taste like.

Our companion's seared scallop salad was also artfully done and full of great flavor. We were all too full for dessert. And the prices will not break your bank account. My only complaint was that smoking is permitted at the bar, and the open design of the place does not restrict it to that part of the house. Once the house got crowded and the kithen was cranking, though, it wasn't as noticeable. http://www.parallaxtremont.com/

[NancyH]

I finally returned to the Leopard in Aurora, for my birthday, Tuesday night. I requested a 5 course Chef’s table with wine pairings (which is generally available, as described on their website, www.theleopardrestaurant.com). Chefs Matt and Jeff produced an artful and tasty dinner. Our server, Derrick, selected the wines expertly. Unfortunately, I did not write down the wines, which is a shame because they complemented the foods perfectly. I remembered Derrick from our last visit to the Leopard, even though that was three years ago! As I remembered from our earlier visits, service was attentive and informative.

We began with the Amuse Bouche being served to everyone in the restaurant: Serrano Ham wrapped dates, served with crab apple vinaigrette in a plastic “squeeze tube”. The idea is to press the tube and dress it yourself. Cute. The flavors were sweet, salty and tart all at the same time – a wonderful start.

Course 1 featured Watermelon! Four small plates offered Chilled watermelon, Champignon marinated watermelon with quince paste, pickled watermelon rind and cheese, Smoked-grilled watermelon with Vidalia onion and blue basil, and a refreshing Watermelon soda in a small glass. I never thought of using watermelon this way – the dishes were light and refreshing, while full of flavor and textural contrasts.

Next, we were treated to a serious hunk of lobster accompanied by zucchini cut into papperdelle strips and a tempuraed squash blossom, plated over a broth infused with coconut milk, almonds and a hint of curry. One of the people at the table pronounced this his favorite!

The first meat course was Cuba Libre Glzed Pork Belly made with Karobuta pork and plated over thinly sliced fresh pineapple and chipotle cous cous. The chef used a rum and coke reduction to make this dish unique. Ummm – crispy pork skin.

Chef Matt asked if he could “test drive” an extra course with us, and then presented us with a rectangular plate holding 2 slices of roasted beet marinated in peach vinegar, a piece of grilled peach, and a small ball of goat cheese rolled in a house made peanut brittle; the plate was dusted with the brittle to bring it all together; it looked like a painting! Though the vinegar threatened to overwhelm the beet, when beet, pear, cheese and brittle were eaten together, the flavors and textures worked with delicious harmony.

After a brief Intermezzo of house made sorbet and fresh-chilled berries, we proceeded to Lamb Two Ways: to the left, Sassafrass sous vide Colorado Lamb loin over a carrot/ginger puree, topped with Ohio honeycomb and to the right, Curried breast of lamb, plated over mint riata, and topped with heirloom tomato confit quenelle. By this time, I was getting pretty full (though my male companions had no problem cleaning their plates!). The loin was cooked perfectly and the combination of the puree and honeycomb with it were just amazing. The breast also tasted wonderful (where did he get those perfect tomatoes this early in the season?), but the loin ruled!

For dessert, we were offered a Chocolate Sache over strips of chocolate “gel” and chocolate cake, plated with a Citrus vinaigrette and Hawaiian pink salt. With a sweet dessert wine, it was the perfect finish (I couldn’t finish it, actually). Chef Matt then gave us house made macaroons “to go” – I tried them last night and they were exquisite - light and airy, slightly chewy, and filled with a creamy paste Oreos would just love to have! All in all, a great way to get over, er, celebrate a birthday.

While the Leopard is a bigger ticket than, say, Parallax, it is a "fine dining" environment that any out-of-town foodie (or local food lover, for that matter) should enjoy. The same talented kitchen feeds the diners at the adjoining Paws casual restaurant, which is less expensive and contains both the cocktail bar for both restaurants and a sushi bar - unfortunately, smoking is permitted in Paws and it permeates the room; fortunately, the smoke does not affect the Leopard.

[mmmathlage]

I finally returned to the Leopard in Aurora, for my birthday, Tuesday night. I requested a 5 course Chef’s table with wine pairings (which is generally available, as described on their website, www.theleopardrestaurant.com).  Chefs Matt and Jeff produced an artful and tasty dinner.  Our server, Derrick, selected the wines expertly.  Unfortunately, I did not write down the wines, which is a shame because they complemented the foods perfectly.  I remembered Derrick from our last visit to the Leopard, even though that was three years ago!  As I remembered from our earlier visits, service was attentive and informative. 

We began with the Amuse Bouche being served to everyone in the restaurant: Serrano Ham wrapped dates, served with crab apple vinaigrette in a plastic “squeeze tube”.  The idea is to press the tube and dress it yourself.  Cute.  The flavors were sweet, salty and tart all at the same time – a wonderful start.

Course 1 featured Watermelon!  Four small plates offered Chilled watermelon, Champignon marinated watermelon with quince paste, pickled watermelon rind and cheese, Smoked-grilled watermelon with Vidalia onion and blue basil, and a refreshing Watermelon soda in a small glass.  I never thought of using watermelon this way – the dishes were light and refreshing, while full of flavor and textural contrasts.

Next, we were treated to a serious hunk of lobster accompanied by zucchini cut into papperdelle strips and a tempuraed squash blossom, plated over a broth infused with coconut milk, almonds and a hint of curry.  One of the people at the table pronounced this his favorite!

The first meat course was Cuba Libre Glzed Pork Belly made with Karobuta pork and plated over thinly sliced fresh pineapple and chipotle cous cous.  The chef used a rum and coke reduction to make this dish unique.  Ummm – crispy pork skin.

Chef Matt asked if he could “test drive” an extra course with us, and then presented us with a rectangular plate holding 2 slices of roasted beet marinated in peach vinegar, a piece of grilled peach, and a small ball of goat cheese rolled in a house made peanut brittle; the plate was dusted with the brittle to bring it all together; it looked like a painting!  Though the vinegar threatened to overwhelm the beet, when beet, pear, cheese and brittle were eaten together, the flavors and textures worked with delicious harmony. 

After a brief Intermezzo of house made sorbet and fresh-chilled berries, we proceeded to Lamb Two Ways:  to the left, Sassafrass sous vide Colorado Lamb loin over a carrot/ginger puree, topped with Ohio honeycomb and to the right, Curried breast of lamb, plated over mint riata, and topped with heirloom tomato confit quenelle.  By this time, I was getting pretty full (though my male companions had no problem cleaning their plates!).  The loin was cooked perfectly and the combination of the puree and honeycomb with it were just amazing.  The breast also tasted wonderful (where did he get those perfect tomatoes this early in the season?), but the loin ruled!

For dessert, we were offered a Chocolate Sache over strips of chocolate “gel” and chocolate cake, plated with a Citrus vinaigrette and Hawaiian pink salt.  With a sweet dessert wine, it was the perfect finish (I couldn’t finish it, actually).  Chef Matt then gave us house made macaroons “to go” – I tried them last night and they were exquisite - light and airy, slightly chewy, and filled with a creamy paste Oreos would just love to have!  All in all, a great way to get over, er, celebrate a birthday.

While the Leopard is a bigger ticket than, say, Parallax, it is a "fine dining" environment that any out-of-town foodie (or local food lover, for that matter) should enjoy.  The same talented kitchen feeds the diners at the adjoining Paws casual restaurant, which is less expensive and contains both the cocktail bar for both restaurants and a sushi bar - unfortunately, smoking is permitted in Paws and it permeates the room; fortunately, the smoke does not affect the Leopard.

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Nancy,

Thank you for the kind words. It is always a pleasure to have diners that appreciate the subtleties that separate a good dish from a great dish.

As for the tomatoes we have our farmer start the heirlooms late winter in pots,

transfer them to the ground as soon as the weather breaks, still in the greenhouse, once overnight temperatures are safe he transplants them once again into the ground outside to ripen in the sun. Just because it's Ohio doesn't

mean we can't have great tomatoes at the beginning of summer.

Matthew Mathlage

[rockandroller]

I will have to check this place out. I've heard of it because I've planned several meetings at the Bertram but I've never actually been there myself, that's a real haul from the SW side of town. But I'm always making recommendations for people looking for places for dinner, this one will be added to the list. What's their appetizer menu like? Generally when a place is expensive like this we just get apps and salads so that we can sample the food. But neither of us are big seafood lovers. It seems more and more if a place has 10 apps, 8 of them are seafood. Great for everyone else, not so great for me.

[mmmathlage]

I will have to check this place out.  I've heard of it because I've planned several meetings at the Bertram but I've never actually been there myself, that's a real haul from the SW side of town.  But I'm always making recommendations for people looking for places for dinner, this one will be added to the list.  What's their appetizer menu like?  Generally when a place is expensive like this we just get apps and salads so that we can sample the food.  But neither of us are big seafood lovers.  It seems more and more if a place has 10 apps, 8 of them are seafood.  Great for everyone else, not so great for me.

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Rockandroller,

You can see our spring menu at http:/www.theleopardrestaurant.com but that menu is ending it's run this Sunday 7/16. Never fear the summer menu is available right here:

The Leopard

Summer 2006

Appetizers

Day boat scallops

root beer float fondue

12

Prawn confit

Cheese grits, chorizo, monchego cheese and lovage honey

12

Pan fried prosciutto wrapped dates

Crabapple vinaigrette

8

Tuna trilogy

three unique presentations

15

Bacon and eggs

Pork belly, one eye jack, ginger honey

9

Champagne and cheese

Champagne marinated manchego cheese, quince marmalade, and garlic bread

9

Tomato tasting

tomato flan, heirloom tomato concasse, boursin cheese “carpaccio” and micro basils

12

“The Leopard” hamburger and potato salad

Filet mignon wrapped chopped ribeye, deconstructed garlic potato salad

14

Tapas

Scallop and root beer float fondue, Prosciutto wrapped dates and crabapple vinaigrette, Lobster and litchi martini

12 per person

Salad

Petite greens

tender baby lettuces, hearts of palm and gazpacho vinaigrette

8

Belgian Endive and Anjou Pear

Brie, pralines, and spiced pear infused white balsamic dressing

8

Tableside Caesar

12

Matthew Mathlage

[torakris]

Rockandroller,

never fear a trip to the Leopard is in the works for later this month, if you a a day that works good for you let me know I am pretty open to any dates at the moment.

Nancy,

I am glad to hear of your report and am really looking forward to making the trip there myself. I hope you feel like joining us again.

[rockandroller]

Thx for the menu, sounds great.

tokaris, the 20th is the only night I'm not free so plan away!

[NancyH]

I finally returned to the Leopard in Aurora, for my birthday, Tuesday night. I requested a 5 course Chef’s table with wine pairings (which is generally available, as described on their website, www.theleopardrestaurant.com).  Chefs Matt and Jeff produced an artful and tasty dinner. 

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One of our companions was kind enough to to photograph the goodies!

You can view the photos from both of his visits to the Leopard (first in 2000, then last Tuesday) at http://flickr.com/photos/stuart_spivack/sets/138549/

If you want to see our dinner, start at the end and go backwards through the last 12 photos.

Thanks Stuart!

[torakris]

I am finally going to get to check out the Velvet Tango Room. check out this thread if you are interested in joining us.

[Sheb]

I highly recommend Lolita (the "baby sister" of Lola). Lola is moving downtown and is not yet open. Lolita has a lot of small plates that are excellent and well as great meals. It is in the former Lola space.

Velvet Tango Room is another gem we've recently discovered. You have to try a Ramos Gin Fizz, you won't be disappointed.

I don't know anyone that finds the flats enjoyable anymore. To me, it is in shambles and a waste of our waterfront space. That area should be like Chicago or Baltimore and it fails. If you are a foodie, I think you'd be disappointed in the dining option there. If you like beer on the other hand, Rock Bottom has improved a ton over the past few years. Their food is not bad either.... OK, the flats has one place I'd consider.

Fat Cats in Tremont is another fun place, Halite (one block from the West Side Market) is owned by the same folks as Fat Cats (and Halite--more bar than restaurant, but good small plates) and is the lesser priced of the two.

If you like beer and are on W. 25th, stop at the Bier Market. I don't know if there kitchen is open, but they sure have a HUGE selection of beer. You could always walk over to the Flying Fig or Great Lakes Brewing Co. from there.

Speaking of Great Lakes.... they've had a new chef for some time and the place has really turned around. He is trying to keep the old favorites, but add new twists and also added a lot of completly new stuff. Worth a stop.

Have a great visit!

[torakris]

Well a couple of us are determined to find the best restaurant in Cleveland, we are headed to Parallax and the Leopard this weekend, if you want to join us check out the ISO thread.

[hmsiegel]

So I've contemplated posting for the past couple of weeks, mostly because I don't like to pompous or arrogant, but I figure that any exposure is good exposure. My name is Harlan Siegel and I am the Sous Chef at Boulevard Blue on Larchmere Blvd. I definately think that we are one of Cleveland's best kept secrets. While our food and presentation is nowhere near the level of The Leopard, I believe our flavors are good and we are definately doing some interesting stuff. Besides the food, we have live blues, jazz and r&b every Friday and the first Saturday of every month, with some of Cleveland's best bands.

If anyone is interested our website is Boulevard Blue

Also, Chef Mathlage, would it be possible for me to come and trail at The Leopard one day. I would love to see how your kitchen runs.

Harlan Siegel

[edsel]

from Kristin's blog:

It only took a couple tries but I was finally able to label the the pictures correctly.

I must apologize to Chef Matthew because my pictures do not do the meal justice.

Maybe Edsel took better ones.....

My favorite part of the meal??

Probably the pork belly and fried rice and the lobster salad.

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I don't know whether my pictures came out any better, but I did get shots of a few dishes Kristin missed. I posted them in ImageGullet.

Parallax (Friday dinner)

The Leopard (Saturday dinner)

I noted the wine pairings in the comments for the Leopard pictures. Derrick did an outstanding job of matching the wines to the dishes.

edit: got Derrick's name wrong...

Edited July 31, 2006 by edsel (log)