Berlin Restaurants

[John Talbott]

In the May Travel & Leisure (usually available on the web in a month) there was a big article on Affordable Europe that mentioned the following: Leo Bettini, Schwartzwaldstuben, Clarchens Ballhaus + Grill Royal.

[FDE]

Fischers Fritz

Here is our recent visit to the only Michelin 2-star in Berlin, Fishchers Fritz, a seafood restaurant. A bit disappointed though…

Foie gras with smoked eel underneath, best course of the evening.

Shrimp was way too salty.

Lime and parsley dominated the course, can’t taste the scallop at all.

Creamy curry ice cream as dessert… very intense!

Full details here:

www.finediningexplorer.com/fischers.

[Prometheus]

Fischer's Fritz? I wonder if I could have gotten a discount for sharing their name? (no, not Fritz). One of the great things about Germany was that everyone spelled my name right! Of Course, they would then begin conversing with me in German, to which I could only grin dumbly and reply "Ich spreche nicht deutsch". They were very forgiving!

[Adam in Brighton]

This winter I spent a few weeks in Berlin - here are a few very good restaurants I enjoyed.

Restaurant Horvath is a contemporary German restaurant that I've been to a few times and I highly recommend - Excelent food and service. It's on a quiet residential street along a canal. Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a, 10999 Berlin, Tel. 030 - 612 899 92 http://www.restaurant-horvath.de/

For good neighborhood Italian a place I really like is Goldener Hahn ,Pucklerstr. 20, 10997 Berlin, Tel. 030 6188098 http://www.goldenerhahn.de

For exceptional Berliner sophistication don't miss Ganymed Brasserie , schiffbauerdamm 5, 10117 Berlin, Tel. 030 28 59 90 46 http://www.ganymed-brasserie.de/pages/home.php Exceptional value and a very reasonable and extensive wine list as well. Very good game, fish and seafood and the "sauerkraut" specialties are special.

Enjoy!

[emsny]

We'll be in Berlin in early July, our first visit. One particular question: we'll be going to a performance at the Komische Oper. What are the after-theatre options? We would want something perfectly German - nothing Italian or Japanese, or even particularly modern (for that, we shall probably dine at either Vau or 44 one evening). Thanks.

[robyn]

We'll be in Berlin in early July, our first visit. One particular question: we'll be going to a performance at the Komische Oper. What are the after-theatre options? We would want something perfectly German - nothing Italian or Japanese, or even particularly modern (for that, we shall probably dine at either Vau or 44 one evening). Thanks.

←

We very much enjoyed Vau (for lunch) and it is a vey short walk from the theater you'll be going to. It is 100% German with a few modern accents (both in terms of food and decor). I don't think you'll be disappointed. Robyn

[emsny]

The key here is whether a fancy restaurant will take a late reservation. I need, of course, to find out what time the performance is over, but would like to have a few options for simpler restaurants that are open fairly late. Thanks for the endorsement of Vau, though.

[robyn]

I checked - and it seems that Vau is only open until 10:30. So it probably wouldn't work.

Since you never know exactly when a performance will end - 2 things to keep in mind are that the Sony Center has a lot of (non-fancy) restaurants which are open late (so people can have meals when the movies are over) - and there are many small places in the general area of the Sony Center (around Potsdamer Platz). Those places are a somewhat longish walk (or a very short cab ride) from the theater. We enjoyed those places when we first arrived in Berlin (they were bustling and we had lots of jet lag and were eating pretty late). Wouldn't expect anything great to eat - just decent eats in a fun atmosphere. Robyn

[emsny]

Thanks, Robyn. In fact, we'll be staying near Potsdamer Platz, so the Sony building might work well for after-theater. I hadn't really considered it - eating in a building with lots of restaurants in it sounds a bit, well, Japanese - but it sounds like a pretty good idea.

Edited May 31, 2008 by emsny (log)

[robyn]

The Sony Center isn't like what you're find in most of Japan (small enclosed multi-story buildings with lots of restaurants on various floors with signs I can't read ). It's a big tall building built around a large open (although I suspect the roof can be closed in the winter) central courtyard - and many of the restaurants have patios/terraces in the courtyard. Has a large multiplex movie theater. Guess the idea is to catch diners before and after the movie. Great food - no. Fun - yes. And the price is right. Robyn

[emsny]

Oh, but Robyn - not being able to read the signs is half the fun! But that's a thought for the Japan forum.

[emsny]

Any thoughts about Leibniz-klause?

Thanks.

[emsny]

Oh - and how about cafes / pastry shops? I have copied the list up-thread of award-winning bakeries, but does anyone have any particular recommendations for places where we can sit down and drink coffee and eat excellent Middle European pastry?

[culinaryarts]

We'll be in Berlin in early July, our first visit. One particular question: we'll be going to a performance at the Komische Oper. What are the after-theatre options? We would want something perfectly German - nothing Italian or Japanese, or even particularly modern (for that, we shall probably dine at either Vau or 44 one evening). Thanks.

←

One place that I don't think I've seen mentioned on the thread is Max und Moritz on Oranienburgerstraße in Kreuzberg (nearest U-Bahn is Moritzplatz). Does traditional Berlin/Brandenburg food very well (infinitely better than I've had at generic German-food places in more touristy areas such as Potsdamer Platz and Friedrichstraße), and does a fairly good job of other German traditions as well. Reasonably priced, and the beer's not bad. It's somewhere I tend to take family who are visiting me when they want something traditional and German, and haven't been disappointed yet.

Oh - and how about cafes / pastry shops? I have copied the list up-thread of award-winning bakeries, but does anyone have any particular recommendations for places where we can sit down and drink coffee and eat excellent Middle European pastry?

←

You could try Vienna? Alternatively, both the food hall (6th floor) and the cafe (7th floor, very reasonable cake, good views) at KaDeWe are a safe bet. Or for something less traditionally German, there are some places in Kreuzberg that do very good Turkish coffee and baklava.

[emsny]

Thanks, culinaryarts, for both of those suggestions. I shall file the Vienna recommendation for a future trip. Hadn't thought of KaDeWe for cake/pastry.

[Kent Wang]

Also looking for cheap eats. I'm here for about two weeks.

I intend on checking out Hasir, Lutter & Wegner, Schneeweiss and KaDeWe.

Any other Turkish, Persion and other Middle Eastern cuisines that are hard to get back home?

[kerriar]

Last weekend's FT has a gives a good report on Rutz which can be read at http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/c8b3a1dc-5454-11...0077b07658.html.

All details - address phone number etc - are there. Not sure about absolute need to reserve, particularly mid-week, but it's probably a wise precaution.

Rutz has been mentioned already upstream and the great attraction here is the wine list where the mark-up on shop prices is minimal, particularly at the higher end.

I can't remember what I eat but the wines were the things of dreams, both German and international.

Rutz should be on any serious Berlin list - it also has a pleasant relaxed and unpretentious athmosphere. The people who work there are at home with several languages.

[IFS]

Can only second Rutz, really creative and relaxed, impressive wine selction also by the glass.

On the upper end try Christian Lohse at Fischers Fritz** and Michael Kempf at Facil*.

I have not yet managed to eat at the new Tim Raue outlet, but it lokks nice on their website (unforunatley the direct Ma link doen't work right now...). Asian and especially chinese elements...

Best IFS

[cxt]

Just got back from a fabulous Christmas week in Berlin. Thanks eGulleteers for great restaurant suggestions! Here are some updates:

Tutun at Reinhardtstr. 19 is gone. (It's a Thai restaurant now).

Cafe Einstein at Unter der Linden 42 had wonderful weiner schnitzel and goose breast, excellent house wine, and terrific service.

Mao Thai at Wörther Strasse 30 was crowded on Christmas eve, with a festive atmosphere and excellent service. Good food, beautifully presented, but if you want it hot, specify scharf! Otherwise, it was not spicy at all.

Oderquelle at Oderberger Strasse 27 was not as eccentric as I was expecting from the descriptions, but had nicely prepared German food and a fabulous "Emperor's pancake" dessert with vanilla and sour cherry sauce.

Loved Monsieur Vuong at Schönhauser Str. 46. It was very crowded but we didn't have to wait. Fondue Chinoise Hot Pot at Kollwitz Str. 54 was another inexpensive, casual place with delightful food, although it took forever for them to deliver a few plates of chopped raw vegetables and raw sliced meat to our table. The chinese black mushrooms were worth the wait, though.

Many restaurants were closed December 24-27. We called about eight non-hotel places for the 24th and found three that were open (Mao Thai, Hasir and Lutter & Wegner). If you go during Christmas, call around or try one of the hotel restaurants.

[Kent Wang]

I was in Berlin for about two weeks over the summer and was on a budget. Mostly I went to KaDeWe and made my own sandwich (I went about every other day). I had a few meals at mid-level restaurants, but all were so-so.

You can see photos and commentary in my Flickr set.

Lutter & Wegner was the best. They had a three-course weekday business lunch for around 20 euro (can't remember exactly).

Strichmann had good wienerschnitzel and other classic German dishes.

Schneeweiss was similar, not as good, more expensive, harder to get to by public transit.

Hasir was expensive, overwrought, and not very Turkish. I've been to mediocre Turkish restaurants in the US that had more traditional Turkish dishes.

Overall, I'm pretty disappointed with the food in Berlin. Perhaps at the very high-end there is good food to be had, but the low- to mid-level are very poor even comparing to Austin or Houston, much less New York.

[PopsicleToze]

Anything new to report on on the Berlin restaurant scene? Visiting early October for EPCA European Petrochemical Association Conference in downtown area. Need great high-end restaurant and some more day to day venues.

Thanks!

Rhonda

[kpzachary]

Ming Dynastie (not new but always great authentic Chinese which is not easy to find in Berlin)

Kuchi (great affordable modern sushi in a cool relaxed environment)

Reinstoff (Higher end, haven't tried it yet, but when I get a chance, this is first on my list. Modern cuisine, getting great reviews)

Ma or Uma (Tim Raue, Ma is high end modern east asian influenced, Uma is high end sushi)

[MaLO]

Has anyone got any thoughts on Berlin at the moment. I am going for a short trip soon and have plans for leisurely lunches at Vau and First floor. Are these options good or are there better chioces? I have considered Fischers Fritz but it looks quite formal, I was hoping to pack light. How smart will I need to dress if I was to try a lunch here too? Any up to date information welcome.

Thanks!

[MaLO]

Visited Berlin for a few days in August.

We stayed at The Esplanade – not the most central but nice.

First night we ventured out near the hotel and ended up settling on Amrit Schoneburg, a busy Indian place with outside seating. Not a good choice. Possibly the worst Indian food I have ever eaten. Everything had a taste of tomato soup and raw spice. Not a good start.

I had booked lunch at Vau for Wednesday. After a bit of sightseeing we headed off to find the restaurant and give it the once over. The restaurant dining room looked nice and the kitchen team were busy prepping lunch. Went for a quick beer in Augustiner prior to lunch. This place sells some decent beer, and food. More of which later.

Restaurant Vau – Lunch.

Some decent focaccia and slices of malty granary bread came with butter and a herby cream thing.

Amuse of cool lettuce soup with a crostini with prosciutto and a little fruit was ok if simple.

We both took the foie gras crème brulee as starter based on the enthusiastic recommendation of two separate servers, one describing it as perfect. It was a slice of foie terrine topped with caramelised sugar and served with cherries and toasted brioche. It was ok. The terrine had an unusual flavour and texture, almost like it was blended with something meatier. The garnish was tasty enough but I expected something more complex. There is nothing wrong with simplicly, especially when you have the finest raw materials but this was not, in my view perfect, it was quite nice but too simple.

For mains we chose cod and lamb.

The lamb was the best dish of the day. It came as a couple of decent pieces of fillet, very flavoursome tortellini of the shoulder, aubergine caviar and trompettes.

The cod was served with saffron potatoes, artichokes and a foamy bouillabaisse sauce. The cod was burnt. The skin blackened and the overcooked flesh clung to the charred skin. Not good.

Much better was dessert. We ordered lemon and thyme soufflé for two. It came with boozy cherries and creamy lemony ice cream. The soufflé was prepared individually so I don’t know why it was advertised for two, but it was good. For a restaurant considered among the best in Berlin I was not impressed.

After an afternoon wandering about the area around Brandenburg and the Tiergarten we went for some more beer in Augustiner. This place serves up Munich beers and huge portions of food. We ate an assortment of sausages with sauerkraut and mustards and a knuckle of pork with cabbage. It was all good stuff. The place was packed in the evenings and did good trade throughout the day. Worth a look if you like beer, sausages and such like.

Restaurant Guy – Lunch.

Breads came as slices of very good brown and less good white.

Salmon with cucumber and horseradish cream was more or less a simple as it sounds but none the worse for it. The fish had good flavour and was just a little pink in the middle.

Fennel soup with marinated halibut was very good. The soup had fine texture and flavour and the meaty fish was enjoyable.

Mains were Char with Serrano and barley risotto with mushrooms. Another nice plate. The fish was cooked nicely, and went well with the garnish.

I took the beef cheek with peas and tuna and a little fried polenta. The beef was tender and tasty. The peas with tuna was a little unusual but I didn’t leave any so can’t have been too bad.

For dessert we had strawberry soup with vanilla sherbert and chocolate panna cotta. The soup had small strawberries, raspberries and blueberries added. The panna cotta was set quite firm, it would have been nicer a little less set.

Large espressos and it came to €22 each. Nice wine by the glass added €5 / 6 per glass. Good value. No fireworks but good cooking in a nice place with good service and value for money.

As it was raining we strolled around the corner to Lutter & Wegner and drank a couple of glasses of wine watching the soggy world go by.

Later on we ate Kebabs and a plate of hot starters at Hasir, close to the hotel. It was quite good.

First Floor Restaurant – Lunch.

Canapés were veal tartar with truffle. Sturgeon with caviar. And a final item I can’t recall.

These were quickly followed by a selection of about six or more breads, salted and unsalted butter and some carrot puree.

An amuse of pigeon ragout with apple and celery root was rich and tasty. Very good.

The menu at lunchtime had a slightly confusing price structure. It offered two courses for €28 up to four courses at €56. Individual dishes were priced between €22 – 48 and it also mentioned a tasting menu being available. As it transpired we could choose freely from the excellent menu and have four savoury courses for €56 then decide if we wanted more or dessert. This was no slimmed down lunch special menu. There were 15 savoury choices and four desserts and cheese available.

We ordered

Duo of king crab with mango

Gateau of goose liver with peach

Variation of beef with imperial caviar and black trompettes

Quail crepinette with black garlic and beetroot

Cheese crusted John Dory with salsa and tortilla chips

Turbot with mussel pot au feu

Stuffed etouffee pigeon shallot confit and sauce riche

Fillet of veal with cafe de Paris butter and artichokes

We passed on dessert in the end but did have coffee and petit fours.

The food was excellent, the raw materials very good and the simple descriptions give no clue to the high level of technical skill, textures and flavours involved. Each plate was picture perfect and the flavours equally impressive. Easily the best food I ate in Berlin and probably the best one star meal I have had. The chef has an impressive cv and it shows. The only down side is that the wine list offers little for less than €50 and the cost of water was over €10. That said the service was good, a little over formal but they relaxed over time. The dining room is very formal, polished wood panelling, lots of silver and plenty of staff. They do also, strangely, have tinny piped music.

Music aside it was really good.

Other things we did included more beer and sausages in KaDaWe and Augustiner. We also had another lunch time kebab (very good and cheap chicken pitta thing) from a take away place near the Saturday market near Nollendorfplatz u-bhf.

[Roger le goéland]

Any recent experiences? I'll be visiting for a weekend in two weeks.