Best neighborhood in Paris

[magnolia]

"...as well as paranoia. Having bought my small selection of goodies, I handed the bag to my wife and picked up my camera to photograph the counter, only to see the shopkeeper wildy flailing her arms across the goods and eventually in front of my face."

That *is* really weird. I can't understand why they would have had a problem with someone taking a photo of the display ! Maybe the shopkeeper was a spy herself, and was afraid to be exposed in your photos. Or maybe Poujaran ran out and had to bring in ringer food from a competitor !

Last night I saw a TV show where some hapless Brits were taken by a French real estate agent to view falling-down Chateaux, with the hope of purchasing their dream home in France for a song.

Of course the estate agent was taking them for the proverbial ride, and they couldn't understand French. When they tried to question the neighbour of one of the houses in which they were interested, about the state of the property, the neighbour basically said "this place is so far gone that it will cost you millions to refurbish it, it's about to crumble and you are being ripped off" and then she noticed the camera and ran off, fearing the wrath of the seller... so I guess not everyone is keen to have their photo taken.

[magnolia]

"...as well as paranoia. Having bought my small selection of goodies, I handed the bag to my wife and picked up my camera to photograph the counter, only to see the shopkeeper wildy flailing her arms across the goods and eventually in front of my face."

That *is* really weird. I can't understand why they would have had a problem with someone taking a photo of the display ! Maybe the shopkeeper was a spy herself, and was afraid to be exposed in your photos. Or maybe Poujaran ran out and had to bring in ringer food from a competitor !

Last night I saw a TV show where some hapless Brits were taken by a French real estate agent to view falling-down Chateaux, with the hope of purchasing their dream home in France for a song.

Of course the estate agent was taking them for the proverbial ride, and they couldn't understand French. When they tried to question the neighbour of one of the houses in which they were interested, about the state of the property, the neighbour basically said "this place is so far gone that it will cost you millions to refurbish it, it's about to crumble and you are being ripped off" and then she noticed the camera and ran off, fearing the wrath of the seller... so I guess not everyone is keen to have their photo taken.

[jaybee]

Les Fontaines used to be the definitive Paris find, excellent food with no decor, lots of locals, but had been discovered as well. Even the celeri remoulade was excellent, which is to me almost inconceivable. Unfortunately ? Lacipiere, who did start out as a butcher, sold the restaurant, probably 5 years ago now, and while it remains slightly above average, it is no longer worth seeking out.

Marcus, this is disappointing news. I understood that Lacipiere insisted that the new chef/owner (Jean-Marie Plas-Debecker) work with him in the kitchen for a long apprenticeship before he would agree to sell to him. He was supposed to have been satisfied that the standards would be maintained, else he would have closed the place and left an unnamed shell.

I recall he served very good game, excellent offal dishes, the pigeon farci was excellent, as was the cote de boef and steak au poivre. The roast leg of lamb, last tasted, was faultless and the terrine of fois gras de canard maison was among the best I've had.

Is your comment based on more than one meal? What dishes were a disappointment?

His son's place is pleasant but not in the league of Papa's. Great view of the Eiffle Tower at night though at the end of his street (rue de Monnttessuy).

[marcus]

Jaybee, at least 3 meals on separate trips. I've now given up. I also read the articles stating that it was just as good as ever. The restaurant has also disappeared from the Gault Millau where it used to receive a 13 which at the time I viewed as too low. I haven't kept notes, but specifically I recall the celeri remoulade which was a favorite and now tastes primarily of mayonaise and the venison which was too chewy and the sauce too astringent. To my taste, none of the food any longer shows brilliance.

Were the experiences that you mention from the original ownership or the new?

[anil]

There are worse places to stay.  

Are the books in French or English? Do you read French? Will you have a computer and Internet access to keep us informed? There is an easyEverything with cheap Internet access on rue de l'Harpe a block or so north of St. Germain and St. Michel.

The Balzar served a decent andouillette, although it was a bit refined. I don't think it's much of a restaurant, but it's open on Sundays and useful if for that alone.

Did I say that I'd be the primary resident no ?, However extended weekend visits are possible. DL/AF have five flights/day ex NYC to CDG -- The library is one of a Derrida Colleague - enough said. Balzar used to be a place folks from Languages used to hang out in the late '70s and in one of her weaker moments, Particia, praised its atmosphere - since then it's mostly ....... Arrogant waiters too

[cabrales]

anil -- When you have a chance, could you consider clarifying your arrangement with respect to living arrangements in Paris?

[John Whiting]

For more than a quarter century I've stayed off-and-on in a cheap hotel at the north edge of Paris near the Porte de Clignancourt in the 18th arrondissement. The neighborhood is now predominantly Arab, but by no means "threatening". The Cignancourt Flea Market is close by and the no. 4 metro is just around the corner -- it will get you into the middle of town by the time you've comfortably settled into your seat.

The hotel is a short block away from the busy boulevard Ornano. There are no shops or bars on this little side street so the rooms are quiet. For a long time it was a shabby but respectable pension with many long-term residents, but all that has changed. Everything has a new coat of paint and there's a massive food-and-drink dispensing machine blocking the view of the beautiful old iron staircase at the end of the foyer.

But in spite of the clean-up it's still only a one-star hotel, which means that last year the 49 rooms still cost between 140 and 270 francs, the most expensive being a large double with two beds and en suite bathroom. The difference in cost from a centrally located tourist hotel means that my evening meal, even at a good restaurant, could be considered "free". (I prefer to put my money into things that don't happen while I'm asleep, which is why I never buy expensive opera tickets.)

Hotel des Olympiades

22, square Clignancourt

75018 Paris

Tel 01 46 06 65 91

Fax 01 42 58 12 62

Metro Simplon

[Bux]

John, can you at least remember when the best things that happened in a hotel room, happened while you were awake.

[John Whiting]

John, can you at least remember when the best things that happened in a hotel room, happened while you were awake.

I slept through them all.

[Orik]

The library is one of a  Derrida Colleague - enough said.

Why settle for Derrida when you can get your fresh Postmodernistic text every time you reload http://www.elsewhere.org/cgi-bin/postmodern/ ?

At the risk of agreeing with Plotnicki, I like the 7th - less touristy than 1 through 6 and yet not as remote as the 15th (althogh, admittedly, the market on rue commerce is wonderful).

[David Bizer]

Hi all...

As a four year resident of the 7th, I felt the need to chime in here. I live on Rue de la Comete, which is between Rue de Grenelle and Rue Ste. Dominique. The Metro is Latour Maubourg, which is line 8 between Invalides and Ecole Militaire.

During my first two years in Paris I made it my mission to try new restaurants without exception. However, after two years of continuous research and trekking all over Paris, I decided it was time to get to know the quartier. I have no regrets. I love the 7th, and particularly my neighborhood.

With regards to a few of the previous posts; Rue Cler is no more expensive or less expensive than the majority of market streets in Paris. Believe me, I've been checking. There are times when the best deals can be found on Rue Cler, especially towards the end of the day when they start unloading the berries. Marie-Antin (sp?) is expenisve, but the fromagerie on Rue Cler with the blue awning is reasonable, and the selection is vast. They have a fantastic "chevre aux herbes" which happens to be one of the best omlette ingredients I've tried. New this year to Rue Cler, we have Lenotre (yes, they are expensive, but you are paying for the name and the quality), Oliviers & Co (chain store), and an Italian Charcuterie. People seem to only mention Poujaran, but G. Robineau & Fils on the corner of Cler & Grenelle is excellent, as evidenced by the enormous weekend lines out the door. The "retro" baguette is fantastic, and for one of the best cheese breads, try the "fougasse au fromage".

As for restaurants, there are many outstanding places to choose from:

I tend to prefer small, quaint bistros.

La Brunie, rue Surcouf - quite possibly the best "moeullux au chocolat" in Paris. Friendly service too.

Le Florimond - Av. de la Motte Piquet

L'Affriole - rue Malar

Le Clos des Gourmets - av. Rapp

Table d'Hote - rue Ste. Dominque - this is a very small place run by the same people who own La Fontaine de Mars. the interesting part is how there is one long table, where everyone sits next to each other. if you want to meet locals and practice your french while enjoying well-prepared simple cuisine, this is it....menu changes daily.

For lighter meals, I would suggest:

Cafe du Marche - already mentioned previously

Le Comptior du 7eme - av. de la Motte Picquet

This is place is fun. They have very reasonable prices, and an almost entirely French clientele. You won't feel like you are surrounded by tourists here at all. They have a great terrace. The menu looks extremely simple; poulet roti, confit de canard, tartare, etc...they also have fantastic salads which are a meal in themselves. Try the "Brick", which is their famous salad topped with two chunks of "chevre" wrapped in pastry.

Cafe de la tour Maubourg - Blvd. de la Tour Maubourg

Nothing exceptional, EXCEPT for the "Croque aux Trois Fromages". Most people try a "croque monsieur" while in Paris. Skip that and have this, you won't be dissapointed.

Finally, if you want Italian...something for a change, or if you happen to live here and don't eat French every night...

Il Duomo - Blvd. de Latour Maubourg

Local place serving nice and fresh italian fare. The penne with four cheeses is excellent.

I think I could keep going on about the quartier, but I'll leave it at that for now. Feel free to drop me a line if you want more info.

David

[Steve Plotnicki]

David - Welcome to eGullet. That was a great post about the 7th. I had given some thought to getting an apartment in that quartier and I spent an afternoon a few years ago looking at a few things with a broker. Then I sort of lost interest and I dropped the idea. But my sons have enjoyed many a baguette from the boulangerie on the corner of St. Dominique and rue Cler. But as to restaurants, do you have an opinion as to Violin d'Ingress? I thought that two Michelin stars was a bit much for a place serving what they serve. And how about the wine bar Sancerre? Any good?

[Scottf]

Very informative post David, thanks.

I ate at Clos de Gourmets in May and had a thoroughly enjoyable meal there. Sam's Pork cheeks and mash was sensational.

We sat at the table in front of the bar next to the post, and I faced right into the kitchen. It was interesting to watch the small brigade (3 + dishwasher) in such a confined space produce some pretty good food.

[David Bizer]

But as to restaurants, do you have an opinion as to Violin d'Ingress? I thought that two Michelin stars was a bit much for a place serving what they serve. And how about the wine bar Sancerre? Any good?

I went to Violin d'Ingres about two years ago. I was not impressed, but to be fair, my expectations may have been too high. I can't remember at the time if they actually had two stars or one. I thought the food and the service were only average, and there are much better choices in Paris. That having been said, maybe things have changed. They do get quite good reviews in several publications. I've preferred the one stars like Astrance and L'Angle du Faubourg (does it have the star yet? it will.)

I don't have much info on Sancerre. I've seen it written up, but have yet to give it a try. Perhaps I should just pop on over one night. It's only right around the corner.

David

[hollywood]

BTW, it's Violon d'Ingress.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Steve P, what and where is the Chez Henri you mention as being within 15 minutes of Balzar? Thanks.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Margaret - Chez Henri "Moulin au Vent" is in the 5th on rue des Fosse St. Bernard which is at the very end of Blvd. St. Germain. It is on the same block as Moissonier if you know where that is and it is just across the street from the French Science University and down the block from the Mondo Arabie (one of the great buildings in Paris.) Chez Henri is sometimes called the "left bank l'Ami Louis." It's a steak and potatoes place with all the typical bistro starters. They make a hell of a chateaubriand with souffle potatoes. No frittes though but the souffle guys are a wonder. It's an honest old fashioned kind of meal if you know what I mean. Les Gourmet des Ternes off the Place de Terne in the 8th is similar. Hunks of meat with all the French fixin's.