Discovering San Francisco

[Carolyn Tillie]

A week travelling around the East Coast had me returning to San Francisco quite homesick last Friday evening. Foregoing the invitations for St. Patrick's Day pub crawls, Kevin and I wandered up Fillmore Street to a different Japanese restaurant I had been anxious to try, Ten-Ichi.

Mostly, I had a craving for the basic teriyaki steak and tempura which I ordered as a combo. The steak was pleasantly rare and tender (so often not the case). The tempura was decent enough, but I always look for something extra; a different vegetable to set it apart from others.

The nigiri sushi, on the other hand, was exquisite. Kevin and I ordered a variety of uni, toro, hamachi, shiro maguro, and ama-ebi were extremely fresh and tender. The service was fantastic and (after a stressful week travelling with my boss), the large selection of sake was well-appreciated. I believe we tried five or six different styles and enjoyed each one of them (realizing I need to start investigating sakes more thoroughly).

[Carolyn Tillie]

An old friend came to town and has a tradition of celebrating his birthday at Bix Restaurant (56 Gold Street). Kevin and I joined Jerry at the bar, starting with what could arguably be considered the best Sidecar I've ever had. Served in smallish martini glasses, dusted with sugar and made with Germain Robin brandy, it was the perfect apertif to start the evening.

For me, much of the draw of Bix (and a reason I would definitely go back) is its old-world charm. A piano and torch singer providing background ambience and white-coated waiters providing impeccable service only adds to the charm of what would otherwise be considered a flash from the past.

For Jerry's birthday, we ordered a bottle of '95 A.R. Lenoble Grand Cru Brut to accompany half-a-dozen oysters and warm, crunchy gougères. This segued nicely into a round of hors d'oeuvres that we all shared; potato pillows with crème fraîche and American sturgeon caviar, Kampachi crudo with blood orange, fennel, daikon, and Fiordolio olive oil, and a torchon of foie gras with French brandied cherries. Hard-pressed to pick a favorite of the three with the potato pillows most definitely billowy and light, the crudo fresh and flavorful, and the foie gras silky and elegant.

Jerry and Kevin opted for full entrées and I for another, smaller dish served with an '01 Gevry-Chambertin Premiere Cru Lavaux Saint Jacques Esmonin. Jerry chose the fish selection of the day, Diver scallops with favas, fennel, fresh parsley oil, and a variety of other flavors... Kevin ordered the rack of lamb which we are having as a left-over breakfast this morning, served with Lentils du Puy and minted carrots, they were tender enough to be eaten like lollipops -- picked up and bitten freely at will with easy tenderness.

My weekness and third course? Tableside-prepared steak tartare. I love tableside service and watching our lovely waiter, Douglas, deftly hand cut and blend the Creekstone Angus beef with dijon mustard, capers, shallots, and quail egg was truly amazing.

A note on service -- the first bottle of Gevry-Chambertin was not entirely corked but a tad off. I expressed my concern that there was a bit too much barnyard funk and there was nary a fuss on bringing a second bottle. Both Douglas, the waiter, and the sommelier, another Kevin, agreed there was some bottle variation and enjoyed tasting along with us to compare.

For Jerry's birthday, he chose the Meyer lemon pana cotta with huckleberries and a glass of Armagnac. I was concerned that the lemon and huckleberry might be too sweet, but there was more an essence of candied lemon rind with darker, pronounced lemon flavors. Kevin and I shared a cheese plate; he with a 1970 Graham port and I with a '96 Rieussac. I mentioned to Douglas my waffling on wanting a bite of chocolate and our cheese plate had a small dish of Vahlrona sauce and a few chocolate tablets, just to appease my craving. The perfect end to a perfect evening.

[Carolyn Tillie]

By all accounts, Juban, Japanese Style Barbecue is the fanciest looking restaurant within the Japantown mall. It is dark wood and subdued lighting at its most elegant, but deceives any potential takers.

Intrigued by its interior, Kevin and I headed there Friday evening for an end-of-week celebration dinner. The concept of Juban is that a variety of raw meats, vegetables, or fish is brought to the table -- in which sits a built-in barbecue -- and the guests cook the meal themselves.

The bottom line is that the concept does not live up to the hype. We started by ordering a pickle sampler to accompany the cooked meats. For our meal, we chose pork Kalbi, Tan Shio - thinly sliced beef tongue, mushrooms, calamari, and a lobster tail. The first part of the problem was that the pickles were entirely Korean including a spicy kimchee. For a Japanese barbecue, I would have expected tsukemono or some other delicate Japanese pickle, not Korean pickles.

The next problem doubled with the service; the pork Kalbi never appeared, the mushrooms were supposed to include shiitake and were simple cremini and white mushrooms, and the remainder of the meats that WERE brought to the table were over-seasoned with salt and pepper. Neither the lobster nor the calamari were very fresh and were undoubtedly frozen.

The final tab for this experience (including a bottle of sake), was almost $80.00. A complete waste of money.

[ulterior epicure]

My weekness and third course? Tableside-prepared steak tartare. I love tableside service and watching our lovely waiter, Douglas, deftly hand cut and blend the Creekstone Angus beef with dijon mustard, capers, shallots, and quail egg was truly amazing.

Ha! Ironically, this was the first thing my eye jumped to when I pulled up their menu! I love steak tartare. Now, when you say "prepared table-side" - do they actually chop the steak in front of you, or merely assemble the ingredients? Also, does it include the egg?

u.e.

P.S. Not to be nit-picky... did you mean "weakness?"

[Carolyn Tillie]

My weekness and third course? Tableside-prepared steak tartare. I love tableside service and watching our lovely waiter, Douglas, deftly hand cut and blend the Creekstone Angus beef with dijon mustard, capers, shallots, and quail egg was truly amazing.

Ha! Ironically, this was the first thing my eye jumped to when I pulled up their menu! I love steak tartare. Now, when you say "prepared table-side" - do they actually chop the steak in front of you, or merely assemble the ingredients? Also, does it include the egg?

u.e.

P.S. Not to be nit-picky... did you mean "weakness?"

←

The plate is laid out in a sun pattern; the diced beef making a mound with rays of mustard, shallots, etcetera emanating from the center. The egg -- which I think helped in this dish -- was a quail egg. So, technically, the steak did not come out whole and was chopped, but was assembled.

And yes, I meant weakness. That's why we writers love spell-check programmes!

[ulterior epicure]

My weekness and third course? Tableside-prepared steak tartare. I love tableside service and watching our lovely waiter, Douglas, deftly hand cut and blend the Creekstone Angus beef with dijon mustard, capers, shallots, and quail egg was truly amazing.

Ha! Ironically, this was the first thing my eye jumped to when I pulled up their menu! I love steak tartare. Now, when you say "prepared table-side" - do they actually chop the steak in front of you, or merely assemble the ingredients? Also, does it include the egg?

u.e.

P.S. Not to be nit-picky... did you mean "weakness?"

←

The plate is laid out in a sun pattern; the diced beef making a mound with rays of mustard, shallots, etcetera emanating from the center. The egg -- which I think helped in this dish -- was a quail egg. So, technically, the steak did not come out whole and was chopped, but was assembled.

Thanks Carolyn.

Either the portion wasn't very big, or the egg (quail?) was of negligible contribution? Was it more of a entree portion or main dish portion?

And yes, I meant weakness. That's why we writers love spell-check programmes!

...and I do hope you have an American "spell-check programme!!" Just teasin'!

u.e.

[Carolyn Tillie]

My weekness and third course? Tableside-prepared steak tartare. I love tableside service and watching our lovely waiter, Douglas, deftly hand cut and blend the Creekstone Angus beef with dijon mustard, capers, shallots, and quail egg was truly amazing.

Ha! Ironically, this was the first thing my eye jumped to when I pulled up their menu! I love steak tartare. Now, when you say "prepared table-side" - do they actually chop the steak in front of you, or merely assemble the ingredients? Also, does it include the egg?

u.e.

P.S. Not to be nit-picky... did you mean "weakness?"

←

The plate is laid out in a sun pattern; the diced beef making a mound with rays of mustard, shallots, etcetera emanating from the center. The egg -- which I think helped in this dish -- was a quail egg. So, technically, the steak did not come out whole and was chopped, but was assembled.

Thanks Carolyn.

Either the portion wasn't very big, or the egg (quail?) was of negligible contribution? Was it more of a entree portion or main dish portion?

And yes, I meant weakness. That's why we writers love spell-check programmes!

...and I do hope you have an American "spell-check programme!!" Just teasin'!

u.e.

←

Considering the tartare followed gougeres, oysters, and a plate of crudo, the serving size was perfect for me. Probably four ounces of meat served with six croutades. Definitely an appetizer portion but shared with others at the table and consumed with all the other courses, it was not too little amount and the egg made a delightful glaze.

And, being an Anglophile, my use of programme was quite deliberate.

[Carolyn Tillie]

It had been a while (while I was still officially a Napkin) since I had dined at Kiss Sushi -- and I am a tad ashamed that having it within walking distance of my abode that I it took me this long to get back to it -- but a solo meal there last evening re-awakened my love of this San Francisco gem.

Celebrating some recent good fortune and with the boyfriend away on business, as a solo diner it was a bit easier to walk into this hidden hideaway for a little splurge. One of the true joys of this restaurant is just enjoying watching Naka-san dance his ballet of assemblage. He is like Nijinski, dancing a pas de deux with the chef's chopsticks as his dancing partner.

The amuse was a pickled taro root salad with seaweed.

Then a trio platter which included uni with miso broth, roasted giant clam, and a salad of Japanese pear, miniature dried shrimp, and spinach.

The sashimi arrived next and included maguro, aji, ebi, hirame, and more marugai.

This was followed with a soup comprised of a perfectly square fish cake, standing next to a roasted potato, carrot, and snow pea with a small ladel of broth surrounding the architecture.

Nigiri sushi was next; five pieces including toro, salmon, and shad.

In what looked like a small pot-de-creme cup, the Chawanmushi followed; a soup laden with silky custard, slivers of mushroom, fish, and crab.

There was a final soup, a delicate dashi with mushrooms and seaweed.

Sliced melon and green tea finished out the meal with lovely walk home through the blooming cherry blossoms...

[Carolyn Tillie]

Another business dinner in the neighborhood -- I suggested Fillmore Grill for a variety of reasons; I had only eaten appetizers at the bar and not knowing the range of adventurability of our guests, the Grill's menu seems relative safe.

Because there was six of us, we were given a private, linen-draped booth in the back of the restaurant, near the service area. That was fine because this was a business dinner and some privacy was needed as well as requested when reservations were made. The staff was extremely accomodating and kind.

To start, the table shared two orders of Tuna Tartare and Caesars Salad. The dressing on the salad was obviously homemade and the hearts of romaine were fresh and crisp. There were parmesan crisps atop the salad and perfection could have been had with the addition of an anchovy or two. The tartare was the hit of the eveing, fresh with capers and other additives that I regretfully don't recall.

After several bottles of wine and the appetizers, by the time our entrees were delivered, most of us were full. I managed to taste (and then prompty take home) huge portions of a lamb shank braised in Zinfandel served with red cabbage, pork chop with a roasted garlic and tomato compote, roast half chicken, salmon with asparagus, and wiener schnitzel.

On the downside, the waitstaff DID screw up the order in that neither a roast chicken nor the salmon dish was actually ordered, but rather two pork chops and two wiener schnitzels. With the flowing of the wine, no one cared and took what was offered, ultimately taking it home anyway. I did insist on sharing a single dessert and a chocolate banana tart was the perfect ending with a delectably crisp crust, creamy interior, and fresh whipped cream.

All-in-all, adequate comfort food but nothing overtly remarkable with the exception of the tartare. The lamb was falling-off-the-bone as expected, but the sauce seemed a tad burnt. The pork chop was perfectly prepared and the roast chicken rivaled my memory of Wolfgang Puck's in his heyday. While I would not seek Fillmore Grill as a destination restaurant, considering their affordable prices (dinner for six with four appetizers, six entrees, a dessert and two bottles of their high-end wine was still under $300), it is a great place to entertain folks in a delightful, comfortable atmosphere.

edited to remove the adjective 'perfect' and 'perfectly' too often used...

Edited April 26, 2006 by Carolyn Tillie (log)

[Carolyn Tillie]

I'm a huge fan of Cafe Monaco. I really am. I love the atmosphere, the decor, the servers...

So it was heartbreaking that a Friday evening stop for a light nosh became an embarrasment to the establishment. Not wanting a large meal, Kevin and I decided to share escargot and steak tartare with a glass or two of wine.

The escargot tasted bland and rubbery, the erstwhile garlic butter barely garlicky and mostly about the breadcrumbs. Foregoing classic service style, the snails were not served in their shells but in the stainless steel round platter normally reserved to nestle the shells.

The tartar lacked any sense of seasoning or freshness. While I saw a modicum of green bits, probably from herbs, I could detect no mustard, shallot, caper, or flavor beyond the days-old diced meat and gummy egg.

To the restaurant's credit, a complaint to management did remove the offending courses, but the disappointment that a much-loved bar and San Francisco icon would present such a disappointment. Makes me wonder what is happening in the dining room with full entrees...

[Carolyn Tillie]

It started as an attempt to run some errands -- a dash up Geary to acquire some beer-making and cheese-making supplies and sausage casings. But then we spotted an Irish bar on Geary and 5th with a pool table and Friday afternoon was spent irresponsibly drinking Poor Man's Black Velvet (half Guinness/half Wyder's Pear Cider) and shooting pool. By 6:00, I insisted on a little nosh and the throaty brogue behind the bar suggested a one-block jaunt towards Clement, known as the Inner Richmond neighborhood (I'm still learning where the neighborhoods are).

Peppered with Chinese restaurants, it was a sign for Turkish food that grabbed my attention as Kevin and I stepped into Troya (349 Clement, corner of 5th). Walls painted in rich brick and warm mustard tones, the black tables and chairs and long inviting bar seemed just the perfect spot. We were immediately served pita and sesame bread with house-made yogurt spread. Wanting to try as much of the offerings as possible, we ordered a sampler meze that included hummus, two dolmas, baba ghanoush, a mint and bulgar salad, and roatsed pepper spread. All were quite good and fresh but the bulgar stood out as the most flavorful. Both of us liking liver, we ordered a "traditional Turkish" dish that was nothing other than fried bits of beef liver with sliced pickled onions. Still, they were tender and fresh and worked well with the various dips.

The shared kebab sampler plate included veal, lamb, and chicken with some rice and salad. All of the meats were fresh, very well prepared, and quite succulent (fearing dry chicken, this was intensely moist). Needing to dash off for an evening appointment, I took home a Kunefe dessert; a sweet cheese pastry that looks like a large, round shredded wheat biscuit. Wrapped in filo dough and baked, it is normally served with rose syrup but that was given on the side and I ended up just eating the pastry for breakfast like a Danish.

Nothing on the menu seemed very exotic or out of the ordinary, but the service was remarkably attentive (a waiter passing by heard Kevin's fork hit the floor and before we could ask, he swept up the dirty victim and deftly replaced it from a nearby table in one fluid, ballet-like movement). Everyone was extremely personable as I was leaving, a passer-by asked if I had the falafel, indicating they were the best in the city.

Now that I have a great bar to shoot pool in, I will have no hesitation in heading back to Troya as well.

Edited May 15, 2006 by Carolyn Tillie (log)

[alanamoana]

I'm a huge fan of Cafe Monaco. I really am. I love the atmosphere, the decor, the servers...

←

Carolyn,

Your link was to the Hotel Monaco and Grand Cafe. As you call it "Cafe Monaco" is this a different restaurant? It just seems out of character that the food would be so bad.

[Carolyn Tillie]

I'm a huge fan of Cafe Monaco. I really am. I love the atmosphere, the decor, the servers...

←

Carolyn,

Your link was to the Hotel Monaco and Grand Cafe. As you call it "Cafe Monaco" is this a different restaurant? It just seems out of character that the food would be so bad.

←

Inside the hotel is a formal restaurant known as the Grand Cafe. But just inside, where the bar is located, is what is known as Cafe Monaco that serves bar food. I have not eaten at the sit-down restaurant, but was dining off their Cafe menu which includes a charcuterie plate, French onion soup, my aforementioned tartare and escargot, burgers, and other nibbles.

I agree and was astounded that the food was so bad -- I have wanted to dine at the restaurant but am reluctant to give them money if their simple cafe can't perform.

[dvs]

I'm a huge fan of Cafe Monaco. I really am. I love the atmosphere, the decor, the servers...

←

Carolyn,

Your link was to the Hotel Monaco and Grand Cafe. As you call it "Cafe Monaco" is this a different restaurant? It just seems out of character that the food would be so bad.

←

Inside the hotel is a formal restaurant known as the Grand Cafe. But just inside, where the bar is located, is what is known as Cafe Monaco that serves bar food. I have not eaten at the sit-down restaurant, but was dining off their Cafe menu which includes a charcuterie plate, French onion soup, my aforementioned tartare and escargot, burgers, and other nibbles.

I agree and was astounded that the food was so bad -- I have wanted to dine at the restaurant but am reluctant to give them money if their simple cafe can't perform.

←

i was there a couple months ago w/ my husband and its was absolutely horrible. we used to live in the city & had stopped in for a quick bite (we were staying at the addiagio) and the bar was dirty, the service totally lacking and the food was blech. in hind sight, i wish we had complained, but since we're both in the industry, we really didn't feel like making a scene on our day off. i'll never go back.

now, if you are ever in the inner richmond again (where we lived for 8 years), go to burma super star. but don't report back as i'll be toooooooo jealous.

i wish someone would have told me that there is no asian / ethnic food in the napa valley before we got here...

[rancho_gordo]

i wish someone would have told me that there is no asian / ethnic food in the napa valley before we got here...

←

Uh, hello???!!! There's a steam table of "oriental" food at the Raley's grocery store! And if I'm not mistaken we have the world famous Panda Express!!!!!

[Carolyn Tillie]

i wish someone would have told me that there is no asian / ethnic food in the napa valley before we got here...

←

Uh, hello???!!! There's a steam table of "oriental" food at the Raley's grocery store! And if I'm not mistaken we have the world famous Panda Express!!!!!

←

I actually think I ate at EVERY ethnic restaurant in the Napa valley (and apologize I don't remember any names)...

The Japanese restaurant in the outlet mall was easily the worst I've ever eaten in my life. The sushi restaurant in downtown Napa only marginally better but pretty hideous by San Francisco City standards. There are five Chinese restaurants in Napa by my count; three in downtown (two of which are both on Main, sort of sandwiching Zuzu oddly enough), one on Lincoln, and one on Trancas. I used to frequent the one on Trancas only because it was close to my home and I was occasionally desperate, especially when I was sick and just wanted Wor Wonton Soup. Another is also another one in St. Helena that is -- well, just there.

There is also a Thai restaurant on Trancas that is unmentionable. Right as I was moving, Analien (Thai? Korean?) was opening in downtown and getting pretty decent reviews. There was a Thai restaurant in St. Helena but I think it has closed.

For me needing ethnic, it was easier to drive to Fairfield which is really less than a 30 minute drive in decent traffic (NEVER go on a Friday evening!). I also sufficed with Nepalese and Portguese food from Sonoma, also a 30-minute drive, for an ethnic fix.

[Carolyn Tillie]

I am thrilled that new business deals are requiring me to explore other parts of San Francisco; namely, the Financial District. An extended business meeting was called for and having carte blanche for deciding where our meetings take place, I insisted on Piperade as I am still work my way through the must-eat-at-restaurant list...

I understand service has been a major complaint about Piperade in the past, and perhaps it is an issue more at dinner if the restaurant is trying to turn the tables faster. But for lunch, service was unrushed and extremely pleasant. One the table for shared starters was a tartare of bacalao and oysters, a garlic soup, and a French onion soup. The garlic soup was easily the favorite, but I convinced everyone to leave some as I knew I wanted to take some home for a late-night snack. This was all consumed with a Tablas Creek Roussanne which worked quite well.

Kevin chose as his entree lamb chops served with Manchego potato gratin and I opted for rarely-seen veal cheeks with fava beans and cepes. Our guest was dieting and opted for a butter lettuce salad. Both our entrees were astonishingly good but the veal cheeks, undoubtedly a sous vide preparation, melted in the mouth. We had as a second pairing a Guelbenzu blend that consisted of a cab-sauv/tempranillo blend which worked quite well.

Being a business meeting, more time was needed for negotiations and dessert was ordered... a cheese plate and port for Kevin, a Gateau Basque for me, and our guest (then realizing how great the food was and foregoing the diet) ordered an apple tart. At one point during the discussion, I mentioned in passing to our guest that Kevin and I were experimenting with making cheese but were struggling with finding goat's milk that is not ultra-pasteurized. While clearing plates and overhearing this remark, our server brought a large hunk of goat's milk cheese from Petaluma for us to try. It was a simple gesture, done without largesse and was well-appreciated.

[ludja]

Nice review, Carolyn. I've been to Piperade 3 or 4 times, once for lunch and have always had good interesting food and service there. I think it is a pretty space for lunch as well with the sun shining in at the front.

(Nice Roussane from Tablas Creek. I visited the winery last year and was impressed with their offerings, includng their white and red "Cote de Tablas" rhone blends.)

[Carlsbad]

Thanks for the review. I love this place. At dinner, it is packed and there can be minor service lapses, but the food is really good and usually very interesting, and the price is always right.

[Carolyn Tillie]

A reason to celebrate saw us dressed to the nines last evening and heading out on the town. An attempt to start with cocktails at Top of the Mark was stiffled when we arrived and discovered the entire venue was closed for a private party. The doorman suggested a number of alternatives within walking distance so down California Street we jaunted. Before getting to any of the recommended spots, we stumbled on the Stanford Court hotel which looked inviting. Having a few hours to kill before our dinner reservations, it seemed a reasonable stop for a cocktail. The bar was warm and British-like with its low ceilings, dark wood, and formal service (the perfect place for a Pim's Cup, my favorite apertif). A grand player piano provided nice ambience as I glanced around at the various historical displays.

Being referred to an elaborate wine cellar, we sauntered downstairs and being completely taken in by the old world charm, quickly changed our dinner plans. Fournou's Ovens, a subterranean restaurant, boasts an impressive wine list of over 8,000 bottles, the largest wood-burning oven in the United States (I was told the only one larger is in Spain), and lovely antique decor amidst painted tile walls. Michael, who was tending the oven, told us he has worked there for over 20 years and I regret that I did not take notes on his explanation of the oven (something along the lines of it getting upwards of 800 degrees while the one in Spain can get to over a thousand).

We started with a bottle of '84 Domaine Carneros La Reve sparkling wine to pair with a foie gras appetizer and a crab cakes appetizer. The foie was served with a celariac and green apple slaw, micro-greens, and port wine reduction. Kevin was extremely impressed with the three miniature crab cakes as he lived in New Orleans and judges most California versions against those he became addicted to at Bella Luna.

The wood-burning oven is the centerpiece of the restaurant and the bulk of the menu involves giant slabs of meat in the oven. Following the advice of the kitchen, we ordered a veal chop and lamb. The veal chop was no less than 3" thick and served with a red bell pepper sauce accompanied with a wild-mushroom and spinach crepe. The lamb chops were stunning; also in the 3" range with a dark demi-glace glaze and a potato, zucchini gratin as a side. For $150, we had a stunning '87 Morey St. Denis Dujac that went better with the lamb (the bell pepper sauce conflicted with the wine).

Yes, the restaurant showcases giant hunks of oven-grilled meat - not many ways to show finesse or subtlety with grilled meat, but Fournou's definitely does. The service was beyond explemplary, the setting decidedly romantic, and the wine list extremely impressive. For those occasional business meals where high-end meat-and-potatoes are called for, this would be a grand setting as a number of private rooms are available as well.

Edited May 23, 2006 by Carolyn Tillie (log)

[Carolyn Tillie]

Out-of-town visitors for Memorial weekend necessitated the visit to a handful of decidedly touristy establishments. What can I say? Tourists rarely know better...

The best part of the weekend included a jaunt around Japantown and a visit to my favorite dining establishment, Osakaya. Located on the bridge, it consistently proves itself for my version of comfort Japanese food with light and crispy katsu, perfect udon and soba bowls, the spiciest Spicy Tuna Roll I know of, and great service. It is inexpensive as well. Of special note about Japantown, it was sold a short time ago to a Los Angeles-based conglomerate and not every business in the mall has had their lease renewed. Suffice to say that the next six months will prove to show some changes.

One evening was spent in virtual exhaustion and pizza delivery was just the ticket. It used to be Buffula di Mozzarella for me, but I have been seen the light and am completed converted into an Extreme Pizza junkie. Their Pandora's Box is my personal favorite while most everyone else enjoyed the Everest (the most meat-laden pizza I've ever seen). Great crust, fresh toppings, and very fast delivery!

Being tourists, a trip sailing around Alcatraz was requested and actually quite fun, except for the hoards of other tourists which blanketed the streets of Fisherman's Wharf. Sadly, my guests actually requested to eat seafood in the area and McCormick & Schmicks/Kuletos was chosen only because of the proximity of where we happened to be when we stopped walking. It does have a decent-enough view, but the food is far from stellar. My friend, Ellen, a new mother who had not eaten out in over a year, was thrilled with her lobster, but ordering an over-priced, East Coast lobster in a West Coast seafood restaurant just seems wrong to me. I had a miso-crusted monk fish which was thick with a sickly sweet Oriental sauce. Kevin ordered an etoufe he was reasonably pleased with, but I found it pasty and gooey. Ellen's daughter was given fish-and-chips which were actually on par with some of the better pubs around the city, but over-priced for a children's meal.

[marlena spieler]

i'm so glad you loved Piperade! Its one of my favourites, too. i always feel like i'm in a restaurant in france, in the very best way....wonderful food and wine list, thoughtful service. i wish i could walk through its door right this moment.

x m

... I insisted on Piperade as I am still work my way through the must-eat-at-restaurant list...

←

[Carolyn Tillie]

A mid-week getaway for my birthday turned into quite an adventure... We look a bright blue Lotus Esprit up to Mendocino on Thursday for an overnight stay at the Standford Inn; on the way, stopping at Scharffenberger, Roederer, Navarro, Handley. I intended to purchase some sparkling but was surprisingly disappointed in both Scharffenberger's and Roederer's offerings that day (BTW, Roederer now owns Scharffenberger). Navarro is always good for some German varietals, especially their botrytis-affected Riesling and Handley surprised with a decent Riesling and Syrah.

The Standford Inn is a vegetarian establishment that allows dogs (unusual). It has stunning grounds with full herb, flower, and vegetable beds providing products found in the restaurant. The breakfast offering include a daily scone, omelet, house-made preserves, freshly squeezed juice, and a wide selection of rare coffee and teas. The dinner menu looked interested, but desiring meat, we opted instead to drive down to the Heritage House. A surprisingly pedestrial wine list (considering the neighborhood) at least provided a fairly decent Merry Edwards Pinot. The menu was hardly exceptional except that what was offered was thoughtfully prepared. Kevin started sweetbreads and we were both surprised when only one was served. I had a seafood chowder that was very well done -- not overly thickened but with chunks of potato and nicely complemented with shrimp, scallops, and clams. Kevin had an oxtail ragout while I chose the duck breast. Mine was highlighted with an accompaniment of a bruleed onion mousse which was the true standout of the meal. Merlot-macerated fruit with a berry sorbet and a white chocolate creme brulee finished the meal, but both deserts were fairly forgettable.

The adventure really began upon our departure on Friday morning, after breakfast. Kevin accidentally locked the keys of the Lotus in the trunk and without a spare, we found ourselves somewhat trapped in the Mendocino village... While he dealt with the various locksmiths and Automobile factions about town, I wandered the village. Our base of operations became Pattersons, the local pub. With very hospitable and helpful locals hanging around, the pub also serves a very yummy herb- and panko-fried fish and garlic chips. After too many Guinness, I changed over to an Irish coffee and was probably lucky I hadn't started with one as I'm not sure I would have ever made it out from under the table...

Needing to stay a second night from the predicament, a walkable hotel was found in the Hill House Inn. This is where it is a shame to see such a lovely establishment be run by those with no vision. The rooms are spacious with Victorian decorations, the bar filled with elegant old wood and leather chairs, and a stunning view of the ocean and surroundings. Yet we have a hotel that has disconnected their in-room phones and limited television to the basic 12 channels (yet still has their laminated cable offerings on the night stand). Not having any cell phone connection, we had to make their bar area our base camp to use the hotel phones for car service. I ordered a bowl of steamers which was reputed to have been served with crusty French bread. Kevin ordered penne with andouille sausage. The "French bread" was nothing other than gummy white rolls and the pasta was intensely mediocre. We made the mistake of eating their breakfast the next morning but after one bite of gooey, raw French toast, I insisted we make haste back to the village for something palatable.

Thankfully, the pub was open early -- and quite packed -- serving a very-well prepared eggs benedict and fresh juice mimosas. Finally arriving at a solution to the problem (physically drilling out the lock as nary a locksmith in town could open the trunk), we headed out of town on Saturday with the top down and the breeze in our hair. A few final winery stops at Brutocao and Maple Creek Winery finished up an other-wise fascinating stay in Mendocino...

[Carolyn Tillie]

A bon voyage dinner for Wolfert with hubby, Bill, brought us to Zarzuela's [2000 Hyde @ Union; 415-346-0800] on Tuesday evening for tapas. Being slightly indecisive and not wanting to interrupt the erudite conversation, we instructed the kitchen to simply provide a steady flow until all were sated. Silly me that I didn't take notes so I'm sure that I'm missing something...

Besides fresh bread with oil for dipping and marinated olives, I recall starting with Salpicon de Marisco which showcased fresh seafood including miniature shrimp, octopus, and calamari. Gambas al Ajillo served in a small cast-iron skillet were perfectly sauteed and piping hot. Bill did specify a desire to taste their Fideos con Almejas y Mejillones but also included shrimp. A serving of Pulpo a la Gallega was the only minor disappointment; while the octopus was perfect and not at all rubbery, the starchiness of the pototo seemed to conflict instead of complement the seafood.

With so much seafood, we finished up with a trio of vegetable dishes including Repollo con Pasas y Pinones, Champinones al Ajillo, and Pimientos Asados. All this was washed down with decanters of sangria.

Instead of opting for whatever was on Zarzuela's dessert menu, Turkish coffee ice cream from the Swensen's (the very first one!) across the street finished up a lovely evening.

[ludja]

Nice to hear to that Zarzuela's is still doing well. It's been years since I've been there, but I thought it was a good tapas place with a nice atmosphere. A bear to find parking near there though, maybe one reason I haven't been back for awhlie...