Digest: Art Culinaire

[Marlene]

We are very pleased to announce a new Media Digest - Art Culinaire. We are also delighted to present Laurie Woolever who will be bringing you this quarterly digest.

Laurie Woolever is a graduate of Cornell University and the French Culinary Institute in New York. She is the executive editor of Art Culinaire, and her writing about food, travel and wine has appeared in the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, Food & Wine, GQ and Wine Enthusiast. She has edited and tested recipes for a number of cookbooks, including Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook and Christopher Lowell's The Hassle-Free Host. She was Mario Batali's assistant from 1999 to 2002, and helped him write the Babbo Cookbook and Mario Batali Holiday Food. Laurie has also worked as a private chef in New York.

DIGEST: ART CULINAIRE

Editor’s note: Art Culinaire is a quarterly magazine, published in an oversized, hardcover format, that invites a group of ten to twelve chefs at a time to create recipes based on an ingredient, technique, region or concept. Those recipes are executed by the chefs and photographed and printed in full color, along with each recipe (for an average of fifty-five complete recipes per issue). Art Culinaire also includes feature stories relevant to each group of recipes, a Q&A with a member of the hospitality industry, a one-page profile of each chef, and a beverage feature. Art Culinaire has been published continuously since 1986.

ART CULINAIRE ISSUE 78

FALL 2005

MISE EN PLACE:

The editor’s letter, which includes this short verse from Thomas Hood (1799 – 1845):

“What is the modern poet’s fate?

To write his thoughts upon a slate;

The critic spits on what is done,

Gives it a wipe – and all is gone.”

INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT: “Demystifying the Ratings”

“Exhilarating, maddening, democratic or highly subjective, guidebook ratings are more important to most chefs than they’d care to admit.”

Interviews with representatives of three organizations whose business is restaurant criticism and/or ranking.

Brenda Homick, Director of Relais & Châteaux North America, on R&C’s stringent standards:

“In North America, for 2005, we actually accepted none of the applications that we received.”

Shane O’Flaherty, Vice President of Quality Assurance, Mobil Travel Guide, when asked whether there’s a cap on the number of stars awarded annually:

“No, but for instance if there are six Italian restaurants in St. Louis, we would not rate all six, we would only rate the top two or three. We try to minimize the number of choices for the consumer.”

And,

James Wevley, Senior Editor for Citysearch New York, on playing fair:

“When we hear about chef changes or serious menu changes, or a new restaurant, we wait two months before sending a reviewer. We’re not in the business of reviewing a place the day that it opens. We know that it takes a little time for a new business or a new chef to get their footing.”

BACK TO BASICS: "Wanna Cookie?"

A short feature that outlines the evolution of the cookie from antiquity to the Girl Scouts’ recent 200 million boxes per year milestone.

Chef profiles: Connie McDonald and Pamela Weekes, co-owners, Levain Bakery, New York, NY and Wainscott, NY

Adriana Paveglio, executive pastry chef, Angelina, The Continental, Jones and Washington Square, Philadelphia, PA

Recipes:

McDonald & Weekes:

Dark Chocolate Coconut Cookies

Ginger Valrhona Cookies

Paveglio:

Coconut and Sesame Seed Crisps

Chocolate Sambuca Sandwiches

FEATURE STORY: “That’s My Masala”

An overview of curry powder’s origins, etymology and the current state of affairs in professional kitchens with regard to its use.

Chef profiles: Jason Carter, chef de cuisine, Lee, Toronto, ON: “Independent Lee”

Pino Maffeo, executive chef, Restaurant L, Boston MA: “Dropping Science”

Jehangir Mehta, executive pastry chef, Aix, New York, NY: “Bombay Spitfire”

Recipes

Carter:

Green Curry-Marinated Pork Belly with Chinese Almond Sauce and

Carrot Coconut Chutney

Red Curry Beef Tart and Curry Consommé with Lobster Dumplings

Confit Black Cod with Curry Oil, Sweet Potato Souffle and Preserved

Lemon

Sweet and Sour Glazed Sweetbreads with Green Curry Lentils

Maffeo:

Curried Arancini with Fluke & Soy Jelly

Thai Bouillabaisse with Citrus Perfume

Curried Candy Corn with Citrus and Thai Basil Salad

Massaman Curry Broth with Aromatic Tea Bags

Cotton Candy with Madras Curry and Roasted Pumpkin Seed Dust

Mehta:

Tres Leches Cake with Coconut Curry Emulsion, Pears and Almonds

Curry-Filled Chocolates with Saffron Mehendi

Charentais Melon Carpaccio, Mango Chaat and Jackfruit Sorbet

Curry Leaf Panna Cotta with Candied Baby Fennel

Crispy Curry Purse with Pomegranate Reduction and Vanilla Rum Ice

Cream

FEATURE STORY: “Root Down”

“Having long played frumpy understudy to the far more glamorous and colorful members of the vegetable kingdom, [root vegetables] make it possible for chefs in even the coldest of climates to observe a semblance of seasonality.”

Also includes descriptions of some uncommon [in the United States] root vegetables, including arracacha, mangel-wurzel and skirret.

Chef profiles: Barbara Lynch, No. 9 Park, The Butcher Shop and B&G Oysters, Boston, MA: “Rushes, Stills, Bivalves and Gills”

Michael Schlow, Radius, Via Mattas, Great Bay, Boston, MA: “Party Mouth”

Recipes:Lynch:

Seared Diver Scallop with Salsify, Radish Salad and Truffle

Vinaigrette

Root Vegetable Canapés

Chocolate Sweet Potato Tart with Parsnip Cream

Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Ice Cream and Walnut Nougatine (desserts are also credited to Kristen D. Murray)

Schlow:

Hamachi with Pickled Lotus Root and Ponzu Vinaigrette

Celery Root Soup with Shrimp, Bacon and Black Truffles

Loup de Mer with Carrots Three Ways

Red Beet Cannelloni with Saffron-Poached Lobster and Chive Oil

Slow-Roasted Beef Ribeye with Haricots Verts, “Red Flannel

Hash” and Red Wine Syrup

Spiced Tapioca with Salsify Ice Cream, Mango Purée and Almond

Foam

(Dessert also credited to P.J. Waters)

FEATURE STORY: “Sustainable Seafood”

Five-page article, with illustration, addressing four major issues in sustainability. Chefs from across the US give comment about sustainability in restaurants.

Chef profiles: Ed Brown, The Sea Grill, New York, NY: “Mr. Brown from Midtown”

Peter Davis, Henrietta’s Table, Cambridge, MA: “Trading (Farmers’) Faces”

Masato Shimizu, Jewel Bako, New York, NY: “Focusing on the Fish”

Recipes:

Brown:

Wild Salmon Konbu with Periwinkles, Shiitake Fries and Lobster

Froth

Pan-Roasted Wild Salmon, Porcinis, Marrow and Red Wine Sauce

Crispy-Skinned Salmon with Frisée Salad and Grilled Spring

Onions

Confit of Wild Salmon with Olives, White Beans and Tomatoes

Davis:

New England Lobster Bake

Pat’s Clams, Mussels, Chorizo and Tomatoes

Seared Wild King Salmon with Beach Plum Sauce and Pumpkin

Ginger Slaw

Pizza of Maine Rock Crab and Sea Salt

Smoked Bay Scallop Chowder with Dulse and Wheat Berry

Crackers

Shimizu:

Sake Poached Octopus with Sea Salt

Baby Japanese Red Snapper with Egg Yolks

Poached Sea Eel with Nitsume Sauce and Tempura Bones

Japanese Bonito with Mitsuba Salad and Tosazu Jelly

Grilled Pen Shell Scallops with Toasted Nori

BEVERAGE FEATURE: “The Empire Strikes Back”

“As states stand on the cusp of relaxing interstate shipping restrictions and ground breaks on an ambitious wine and food center in New York State, serious Finger Lakes winemakers prepare to transcend their sweet reputation.”

Three-page article with graphic map of Finger Lakes region and photographs from the region’s wineries.

[libertad lubin]

Have subscribed to Art Culinaire since the 70's. An incredible visual inspiration and a view of leading chef's focus. Is this then a new format?

[Laurie Woolever]

A new format for us, yes, but in no way intended to replace the print edition. This is really a sample of what we do, a place to start discussion, a chance for interested egulleteers to learn more about Art Culinaire.

lw

[marinade]

Hi Laurie.

I've been an early AC subscriber since day one and happy to have a complete set. Really glad you're pinning this. Is there anything in the future for indexing (on or offline)the issues by topics? Any possibility of releasing earlier editions on CD-Rom?

Edited November 23, 2005 by marinade (log)

[Laurie Woolever]

I like both of those ideas! We're just starting to digest the magazine and will work in reverse chronological order, adding new issues as they are released. there is quite a bit of demand for early issues of art culinaire (1 - 39) which are, unfortunately, out of print -- an electronic version could fill that need. i'll keep you, um 'posted.' (bad pun)

You may already know that we have released three volumes of the 'best of' art culinaire, spanning issues 1-15, 16-30 and 31-45. These volumes include photographs and recipes (but not the feature stories or chfes' biographies) -- so that is one way to at least get the jist of those earlier issues. It's mind-blowing how much the business has changed, at least in a visual/aesthetic sense, since 1986!

[Jamie Valvo]

I was very excited to see Michael Laskonis featured in the latest issue of Art Culinaire. Having worked with him at Tribute it is always wonderful to see his much deserved recognition. The cover is a beautiful shot and I enjoyed reading and viewing the dishes within.

From everyone at Tribute; congratulations Michael and we wish you continued success.

Yours in Food,

James Valvo

Chef de Cuisine

Tribute

[Laurie Woolever]

ART CULINAIRE ISSUE 64

SPRING 2002

MISE EN PLACE:

The editor’s letter.

INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT: “Keeping up with the Joneses”

An interview with Bobby Jones, Jr., Bob Jones Sr., and Lee Jones, farmers from Ohio’s The Chef’s Garden.

Chef Profile: Charlie Trotter, Charlie Trotter’s, Chicago, IL

Recipes: Trotter:

Ragoût of Carrots, Red Pearl Onions and Black Eyed Peas with a Corn Purée

Charantais Melon Soup with Pickled Breakfast Radishes and Melon Blossoms

Heirloom Tomato Terrine with Red Bell Pepper Sauce and Eggplant Purée

Spring Beans with a Brown-Butter-Almond Purée and Curry Emulsion

Potato and Brussels Sprouts Tart with Horseradish-Crème Fraîche

Hominy Stuffed Bell Peppers with Huitlacoche and Asparagus Sauce

BACK TO BASICS: “High Hopes”

A feature on Brioche, including history, technique, and a basic brioche recipe.

Chef Profiles: Geoff Gardner, Sel de la Terre, Boston, MA

Sarabeth Levine, Sarabeth’s, New York, NY

Recipes: Gardner:

Coq Au Vin Blanc with Brioche Hearts

Brioche Mille-Feuille with Pear Chutney and Poire William Mousseline

Crème Caramel Custard with Chocolate Savarin and White Chocolate Ice Cream

Semolina Brioche Bread Pudding with Blueberry Preserves and Bourbon Milk Jam

Brioche Stuffed Napa Cabbage with Chicken Consommé

Levine:

Brioche Terrine Stuffed with Spinach and Feta Cheese

Brioche and Cornbread Stuffing with Fresh Herbs and Shiitake Mushrooms

Brioche and Cornmeal-Fried Shrimp

Raspberry Bread Pudding with Crème Anglaise

FEATURE STORY: “Uncovered”

A feature on sous chefs and the First Annual Bertolli Sous Chef Awards.

Chef Profiles: Michael Anthony, Blue Hill, New York, NY

Gregory Short, The French Laundry, Yountville, CA

Stefano Zimei, The Federalists, XV Beacon Hotel, Boston, MA

Recipes: Anthony:

Diver Scallops with Butternut Squash Purée and Wasabi Tobikko

Smoked Salmon Belly with Avocado-Yogurt Purée and Pickled Watermelon

Poached Shrimp and Jícama Salad in a Lobster Saffron Broth

Braised Lamb Shoulder with Cranberry Beans and Soybeans

Stuffed Rabbit Loin with Vidalia Onion and Watercress Purée

Steamed Yellowtail with Pearl Onions and Parsley Vinaigrette

Gregory Short:

Roasted Rabbit with Spring Vegetables and Couscous

New Zealand Venison and Red Onion Marmalade with Spring Bean Ragoût

Carpaccio of Cantaloupe Gelée with Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta and Greek Basil

Chilean Sea Bass with Tomato Fondue, Braised Garlic, and Lemon Sauce

Zimei:

Crisp Veal Sweetbread Medallions with Forest Mushrooms

Fried Rock Shrimp and Ahi Tuna Tartare with Mizuma Salad

Seared Halibut with Celeriac Purée, Green Apple Ragoût, and Radish Salad

Seared Sea Bass with Cauliflower Purée and Roasted Baby Beets

Soft-Shell Crabs with Watermelon and Arugula Salad

FEATURE STORY: “Green Harvest”

A short feature on the history and uses of Verjus.

Chef Profile: David Féau, Lutèce, New York, NY

Recipes: Féau:

Gratin of Baby Swiss Chard Poached in Périgord Verjus

Baby Artichokes Braised in Verjus, Rosemary, and Garlic

Black Bass with Verjus and Green Olive Sauce

Seared Quail with Verjus-Butter Sauce

Poached Dover Sole with White Verjus Sauce

FEATURE STORY: “Living Large”

A feature on raw food.

Chef Profiles: Daniel Patterson, Restaurant Elizabeth Daniel, San Francisco, CA

Norman Van Aken, Norman’s, Coral Gables, FL

Recipes: Patterson:

Iranian Sevruga Caviar with Avocado Purée and Beet Tartare

Spanish Mackerel Roulade Poached in Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Basil Sorbet

Escarole and Kohlrabi Salad with Truffles and Argan Oil

Chilled Carrot Soup with Pickled Mango Coconut Milk Froth

Chanterelle Rémoulade with Hazelnut Mayonnaise and Herb Salad

Van Aken:

Tomato Bisque with Coconut Snow and Hawaiian Black Sea Salt

Corn Water Martini with Pickled Baby Corn

Raw Banana Split with Cherimoya Sorbet and Spiced Carob Sauce

Raw Flaxseed Tostadas with Mashed Legumes and Cilantro-Sour Orange Verde

Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with a Fennel and Orange Salad

Faux Rice Nori-Maki Rolls with White Soy Sauce

Vertical Fork Satays with Passion Fruit-Mirin Vinaigrette

BEVERAGE FEATURE: “Dry Spell”

Short article on the history of the cocktail.

Back issues of Art Culinaire may be purchased by calling 1-800-SO-TASTY or visiting www.getartc.com

[Laurie Woolever]

ART CULINAIRE ISSUE 65

SUMMER 2002

MISE EN PLACE:

The editor’s letter.

INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT: “Trouble Spotting”

An interview with Robert D’Andrea of UN Piece Cleaners, a dry cleaner with works with high-end restaurants to keeps their whites “white”.

BACK TO BASICS: “Head Cheese”

A short feature on gelatin.

Chef Profile: Michael Städtlander, Eigensinn Farm, Singhampton, Ontario, Canada

Recipes: Städtlander:

Lemon Foam with Wild Blueberry Compote

Wood Grilled Veal Cheek with a Warm Chanterelle Salad

Oxtail Ravioli with Lentil Soup

Suckling Pig Head Cheese with Beet Salad and Potato Crisps

Tuna and Scorpion Fish Salad with Agar-Agar

FEATURE STORY: “Scoville’s Inferno”

A feature explaining the heat levels and uses of various chili peppers.

Chef Profiles: Susur Lee, Susur, Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Nicola Mersini, San Domenico, New York, NY

Bill Telepan, Judson Grill, New York, NY

Recipes: Lee:

Smoked Scallops with Ocean Gelée

Rouget and Mussels with Spicy Lobster Bisque and Scallion Sauce

Lobster with Monkfish Liver

Spicy Crusted Scallops with Thai Glaze and Kung Pao Sauce

White Asparagus and Pink Peppercorns with Tianjin Sauce

Foie Gras Three Ways

Wuxi Pork and Chestnut Meringue Tart

Steamed Scallops in a Mussel Broth with Spicy Black Bean Sauce

Nicola:

Cocoa and Chestnut Pasta with Andouille Sausage

Soup Mersini

Roasted Black Cod with Endive Marmalade

Skate Wrapped in Caul Fat with Crispy Spiced Artichokes

Calamari with Calabrian Peppers

Telepan:

Sardines with Chorizo and Cayenne Oil

Braised Short Ribs with Horseradish Oil

Spicy Ceviche with Muskmelon and Cilantro

Scallops with Stuffed Cabbage and Paprika Oil

Grilled Octopus in a Green Chili Vinaigrette

Roasted Pork Loin with Spicy Carrots

Coconut Milk Cake with Pineapple Thai Chili Sorbet

FEATURE STORY: “The Darling Decapod”

A feature on lobsters including information on lobster anatomy, species and harvesting.

Chef Profiles: Melissa Kelly, Primo, Rockland, ME

Larry Matthews, Jr., Back Bay Grill, Portland, ME

Masaharu Morimoto, Morimoto, Philadelphia, PA

Recipes: Kelly:

Lobster and Asparagus Risotto with Meyer Lemon

Steamed Lobster with Fregola

Matthews:

Knuckle Sandwich with Chips

Lobster Tortellini with Lobster Foam and Basil Oil

A Tasting of Lobster

Lobster Consommé with Lobster Flan and Lobster Salpicon

Chilled Lobster Salad and Herbed Goat Cheese with Vanilla Oil

Lobster Strudel with Pistachio Crumbs and Seared Foie Gras

Maine Lobster and Mascarpone Purée with Asparagus Soup

Morimoto:

Zensai Sakizuke

Lobster Nabe with Tofu

Lobster Wrapped in Yuba with Sauce Américane

Lobster Épice

Chilled Lobster Noodles with Octopus and Abalone

Lobster Tempura Roll with Gorgonzola Sauce

FEATURE STORY: “Lacto-Licious”

A short feature about ice cream, including a recipe for Pierre Hermé’s ice cream base.

Chef Profiles: Fabrizio Collica, San Domenico, New York, NY

Recipes: Collica:

White Truffle Gelato with Sweet Parmigiano-Reggiano Tuiles

Espresso Gelato and Chocolate Almond Cake with Cinnamon Sauce

Dried Fig Gelato with Pistachio Cake and Almond Croquant

Stadtlander:

Cardamom and Ginger Filled Stollen with Plum Sauce

Roasted Almond and Single Malt Scotch Ice Cream with Apricot Strudel

Kashmiri Chai Ice Cream with a Rhubarb and Hazelnut Meringue Tart

Walnut and Maple Croquant Ice Cream with Glazed Apples and Strawberries

Rosemary and Lavender Honey Ice Cream with Pear and Sesame Seed Crêpes

Locatelli:

Calves’ Feet Salad with Mustard Fruit

Chestnut Tagliatelle with Wild Mushrooms

Spaghetti with Octopus

Fried Ravioli with Plum Compote and Honey Eucalyptus Ice Cream

Chocolate Parfait with Almond Brittle

Staines:

Terrine of Salmon, Red Mullet and Foie Gras

Marinated Foie Gras Terrine with Endive Tarte Tatin

Nage of Langoustine with Frog Leg Ravioli

Trio of Turbot

Banana Crème Brûlée with Sea Salt Caramel Ice Cream

BEVERAGE FEATURE: “Fuel for the Fire”

Short article on cooks and caffeine use.

Back issues of Art Culinaire may be purchased by calling 1 800 SO TASTY or by visiting www.getartc.com.

[Laurie Woolever]

ART CULINAIRE ISSUE 66

FALL 2002

MISE EN PLACE:

The editor’s letter.

INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT: “East Meets West”

An interview with Chinese food authority Ken Hom.

BACK TO BASICS: “Dumplings”

A feature on the ubiquity of dumplings and their global variations.

Chef Profiles: Patrice Caillot, Lespinasse, New York, NY

Kurt Gutenbrunner, Wallsé, Café Sabarsky, New York, NY

Stanley Wong, TanDa, New York, NY

Recipes: Caillot:

Steamed Peach and Verbena Dumplings

Passion Fruit Dumplings with Chilled Raspberry Soup

Caramel Dumplings with Apple Soup

Fried Pear and Cinnamon Dumplings with Honey Ice Cream and Chocolate Soup

Mango Sorbet Beignets with Hot Chocolate

Gutenbrunner:

Farina Dumpling with White Asparagus and Morels in Sherry

Liver Dumpling with Wild Ramp Späetzle

Servietten Knödel

Oxtail Consommé with Bone Marrow Dumpling

“Waldviertler” Potato Dumplings

Apricot Knödel

Quark Dumpling with Plum Compote

Wong:

Trio of Wontons

Spiced Coconut Panna Cotta with Black Sesame Rice Dumplings

Frog Leg Tapioca Praliné with Thai Basil and Laksa

Bean Curd and Mushroom Bonbons with Banyuls Syrup

Seared Foie Gras, Pickled Mango Pot Stickers and Spicy Caramel

FEATURE STORY: “Figs”

A feature on figs, including history, varietal information, and recipes.

Chef Profiles: Michael Cimarusti, The Water Grill, Los Angeles, CA

Suzanne Goin, Lucques, Los Angeles, CA

Rémi Lauvand, Miró – The Bacara Resort, Santa Barbara, CA

Troy Thompson, Jer-ne, Marina Del Rey, CA

Jamie West, San Ysidro Ranch, Montecito, CA

Recipes: Cimarusti:

Squab with Stuffed Fig, Artichokes and Cavalo Nero

Foie Newton with Green Almond Milk

Black Sea Bass with Roasted Figs and Porcini

Curried Maine Lobster with Figs and Kumquats

Citrus Poached Pear with Dried Figs

Arctic Char Confit and Braised Pork Belly with a Savory Fig Tartlet

Goin: Halibut Wrapped in Fig Leaf with Roasted Figs

Goat Cheese with Dried Figs, Walnuts, Radicchio and Saba

Dried Fig Napoleon

Roasted Fig and Almond Custard Tart with Almond Ice Cream

Lauvand:

Warm White Asparagus and Mustard Greens with Sea Urchin Roe and Figs

Goat Cheese Malfatti with Serrano Ham, Morels and Figs

Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, Marinated Figs and Coriander with Squash Blossoms

Rabbit with Roasted Fig “Demi-Sel” and Fava Beans

Spiced Figs and Fraise des Bois with Sabayon

Thompson:

Gorgonzola Stuffed Figs Wrapped in Pancetta and Frisée

Lavender Honey Figs with Lingonberries and White Chocolate Ice Cream

Confit of Foie Gras and Duck Ham on Pickled Figs and Chanterelles

Vanilla Scented Figs in Gold Leaf

Bento Box of Figs

West:

Prosciutto-Wrapped Grilled Figs on Melon Carpaccio

Green Fig Tarte Tatin with Mascarpone-Rosemary Gelato

Fig and Espresso Braised Wild Boar Shank with Polenta, Ancho Chili and Gremolata

Green Fig and Roasted Golden Beets with Pecan-Crusted Camembert

FEATURE STORY: “Saffron”

A feature on the origin, history, and uses of saffron.

Chef Profile: Dante Boccuzzi, Aureole, New York, NY

Recipes: Boccuzzi:

Saffron-Stained Fluke, Citrus Tomato Salad, Chickweed and Yuzu Vinaigrette

Saffron Glazed Foie Gras and Tuna Square

Apple and Soft-Shell Crab with Saffron Sorbet

Carpaccio of Saffron Braised Octopus

Saffron Agnolotti with Fennel Confit and Cauliflower

Coconut-Pineapple Soup with Saffron Grilled Pineapple

Saffron Honey Panna Cotta with Sauternes Sorbet

Saffron Poached Pear with Financier

BEVERAGE FEATURE: “Hey Heidi, have a swig of this!”

Short article on Génépy.

Back issues of Art Culinaire are available by calling 1 800 SO TASTY or visiting www.getartc.com.