Laurie Woolever

To all who intend to but have not yet contacted Panter to make your opinion known, I just spoke to his press rep who said that they have received close to 300 emails in favor of the ban, and just 22 opposed to the ban. !!

And Laurie, I enjoyed your article very much. Good stuff. ← Thanks! It was a blast to interview him and I wish I could have included more of his comments. Maybe there will be a follow-up...

I know there's a Goldman thread in Pastry & Baking think his show merits a thread in Food & Media too. I wrote about him and the new TVFN show in the New York Observer's Bridal Blog this week: Duff Goldman post I think the show is a great and refreshing direction for TVFN -- even if this type of programming is just an attempt to attract beer and car and Axe Body Spray advertisers.

Esca also serves lunch. 402 West 43rd Street on corner of 9th Ave. 212 564 7272 Fantastic Italian takes on seafood from exec chef Dave Pasternack. Had an outstanding lunch at Casa Mono just a few weeks ago and can completely get behind it. And Lupa is great. You really can't go wrong.

Thank you! I thought the exact same thing when reading it this morning. I did, however, enjoy the state/county fair piece, with a nice tie-in to the front page piece about declining attendance at such events.

Just for the sake of clarity, I'll be more specific about the situation that led me to this forum: I quoted a chef saying, about himself, "My ambition blew everyone else out of the fucking water." Did the word "fuck" contribute in a meaningful way to that statement? Almost certainly not. Did it occur to me that I should excise the potentially offensive word? Absolutely not. (Bear in mind that Art Culinaire has no official editorial policy against the inclusion of profanity; I would consider myself a big fan of all such words, when used well; and that in the last several years, such esteemed chefs as Charlie Trotter, Susur Lee, Andy Nusser and Mark Ladner have used profane language and been quoted directly in said publication, with no fallout.) I'm never happy to have upset a reader (and, in this case, a longtime subscriber who has vowed to cancel his subscription), but at the same time, I had to "respectfully disagree" with his assertion that "such language has no place in a written text, no matter the circumstance" and "such language negates any educational or reference value of the text." And I "assured" the complaintant that future issues would almost certainly contain more of the language that has so upset him. Carry on, then, with the censorship vs editing debate...

I recently received a complaint from a reader who was extremely offended at the inclusion of the f-word in a quote from a chef featured in the summer issue of Art Culinaire. In this time of Bourdain and Ramsay, I'm wondering how other food media enthusiasts feel about the topic of profanity in the context of an article about a chef -- should a chef's quote or anecdote be censored to protect the easily-offended? The reader suggested that we append some kind of warning in the front of the magazine, rather than exposing them to an accidental reading of the offending word or phrase. Thoughts?

I was at the Fancy Food Show in New York yesterday and picked up some information from the Flathead Native Agricultural Cooperative, a small group of Native American ranchers who raise and cure their meats, apparently, based on the foodways of their ancestors. They don't have a website but their phone number is 406 676 0399 (they're based in Montana). Good luck with your research-

ART CULINAIRE ISSUE 66 FALL 2002 MISE EN PLACE: The editor’s letter. INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT: “East Meets West” An interview with Chinese food authority Ken Hom. BACK TO BASICS: “Dumplings” A feature on the ubiquity of dumplings and their global variations. Chef Profiles: Patrice Caillot, Lespinasse, New York, NY Kurt Gutenbrunner, Wallsé, Café Sabarsky, New York, NY Stanley Wong, TanDa, New York, NY Recipes: Caillot: Steamed Peach and Verbena Dumplings Passion Fruit Dumplings with Chilled Raspberry Soup Caramel Dumplings with Apple Soup Fried Pear and Cinnamon Dumplings with Honey Ice Cream and Chocolate Soup Mango Sorbet Beignets with Hot Chocolate Gutenbrunner: Farina Dumpling with White Asparagus and Morels in Sherry Liver Dumpling with Wild Ramp Späetzle Servietten Knödel Oxtail Consommé with Bone Marrow Dumpling “Waldviertler” Potato Dumplings Apricot Knödel Quark Dumpling with Plum Compote Wong: Trio of Wontons Spiced Coconut Panna Cotta with Black Sesame Rice Dumplings Frog Leg Tapioca Praliné with Thai Basil and Laksa Bean Curd and Mushroom Bonbons with Banyuls Syrup Seared Foie Gras, Pickled Mango Pot Stickers and Spicy Caramel FEATURE STORY: “Figs” A feature on figs, including history, varietal information, and recipes. Chef Profiles: Michael Cimarusti, The Water Grill, Los Angeles, CA Suzanne Goin, Lucques, Los Angeles, CA Rémi Lauvand, Miró – The Bacara Resort, Santa Barbara, CA Troy Thompson, Jer-ne, Marina Del Rey, CA Jamie West, San Ysidro Ranch, Montecito, CA Recipes: Cimarusti: Squab with Stuffed Fig, Artichokes and Cavalo Nero Foie Newton with Green Almond Milk Black Sea Bass with Roasted Figs and Porcini Curried Maine Lobster with Figs and Kumquats Citrus Poached Pear with Dried Figs Arctic Char Confit and Braised Pork Belly with a Savory Fig Tartlet Goin: Halibut Wrapped in Fig Leaf with Roasted Figs Goat Cheese with Dried Figs, Walnuts, Radicchio and Saba Dried Fig Napoleon Roasted Fig and Almond Custard Tart with Almond Ice Cream Lauvand: Warm White Asparagus and Mustard Greens with Sea Urchin Roe and Figs Goat Cheese Malfatti with Serrano Ham, Morels and Figs Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, Marinated Figs and Coriander with Squash Blossoms Rabbit with Roasted Fig “Demi-Sel” and Fava Beans Spiced Figs and Fraise des Bois with Sabayon Thompson: Gorgonzola Stuffed Figs Wrapped in Pancetta and Frisée Lavender Honey Figs with Lingonberries and White Chocolate Ice Cream Confit of Foie Gras and Duck Ham on Pickled Figs and Chanterelles Vanilla Scented Figs in Gold Leaf Bento Box of Figs West: Prosciutto-Wrapped Grilled Figs on Melon Carpaccio Green Fig Tarte Tatin with Mascarpone-Rosemary Gelato Fig and Espresso Braised Wild Boar Shank with Polenta, Ancho Chili and Gremolata Green Fig and Roasted Golden Beets with Pecan-Crusted Camembert FEATURE STORY: “Saffron” A feature on the origin, history, and uses of saffron. Chef Profile: Dante Boccuzzi, Aureole, New York, NY Recipes: Boccuzzi: Saffron-Stained Fluke, Citrus Tomato Salad, Chickweed and Yuzu Vinaigrette Saffron Glazed Foie Gras and Tuna Square Apple and Soft-Shell Crab with Saffron Sorbet Carpaccio of Saffron Braised Octopus Saffron Agnolotti with Fennel Confit and Cauliflower Coconut-Pineapple Soup with Saffron Grilled Pineapple Saffron Honey Panna Cotta with Sauternes Sorbet Saffron Poached Pear with Financier BEVERAGE FEATURE: “Hey Heidi, have a swig of this!” Short article on Génépy. Back issues of Art Culinaire are available by calling 1 800 SO TASTY or visiting www.getartc.com.

ART CULINAIRE ISSUE 65 SUMMER 2002 MISE EN PLACE: The editor’s letter. INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT: “Trouble Spotting” An interview with Robert D’Andrea of UN Piece Cleaners, a dry cleaner with works with high-end restaurants to keeps their whites “white”. BACK TO BASICS: “Head Cheese” A short feature on gelatin. Chef Profile: Michael Städtlander, Eigensinn Farm, Singhampton, Ontario, Canada Recipes: Städtlander: Lemon Foam with Wild Blueberry Compote Wood Grilled Veal Cheek with a Warm Chanterelle Salad Oxtail Ravioli with Lentil Soup Suckling Pig Head Cheese with Beet Salad and Potato Crisps Tuna and Scorpion Fish Salad with Agar-Agar FEATURE STORY: “Scoville’s Inferno” A feature explaining the heat levels and uses of various chili peppers. Chef Profiles: Susur Lee, Susur, Toronto, Ontario, Canada Nicola Mersini, San Domenico, New York, NY Bill Telepan, Judson Grill, New York, NY Recipes: Lee: Smoked Scallops with Ocean Gelée Rouget and Mussels with Spicy Lobster Bisque and Scallion Sauce Lobster with Monkfish Liver Spicy Crusted Scallops with Thai Glaze and Kung Pao Sauce White Asparagus and Pink Peppercorns with Tianjin Sauce Foie Gras Three Ways Wuxi Pork and Chestnut Meringue Tart Steamed Scallops in a Mussel Broth with Spicy Black Bean Sauce Nicola: Cocoa and Chestnut Pasta with Andouille Sausage Soup Mersini Roasted Black Cod with Endive Marmalade Skate Wrapped in Caul Fat with Crispy Spiced Artichokes Calamari with Calabrian Peppers Telepan: Sardines with Chorizo and Cayenne Oil Braised Short Ribs with Horseradish Oil Spicy Ceviche with Muskmelon and Cilantro Scallops with Stuffed Cabbage and Paprika Oil Grilled Octopus in a Green Chili Vinaigrette Roasted Pork Loin with Spicy Carrots Coconut Milk Cake with Pineapple Thai Chili Sorbet FEATURE STORY: “The Darling Decapod” A feature on lobsters including information on lobster anatomy, species and harvesting. Chef Profiles: Melissa Kelly, Primo, Rockland, ME Larry Matthews, Jr., Back Bay Grill, Portland, ME Masaharu Morimoto, Morimoto, Philadelphia, PA Recipes: Kelly: Lobster and Asparagus Risotto with Meyer Lemon Steamed Lobster with Fregola Matthews: Knuckle Sandwich with Chips Lobster Tortellini with Lobster Foam and Basil Oil A Tasting of Lobster Lobster Consommé with Lobster Flan and Lobster Salpicon Chilled Lobster Salad and Herbed Goat Cheese with Vanilla Oil Lobster Strudel with Pistachio Crumbs and Seared Foie Gras Maine Lobster and Mascarpone Purée with Asparagus Soup Morimoto: Zensai Sakizuke Lobster Nabe with Tofu Lobster Wrapped in Yuba with Sauce Américane Lobster Épice Chilled Lobster Noodles with Octopus and Abalone Lobster Tempura Roll with Gorgonzola Sauce FEATURE STORY: “Lacto-Licious” A short feature about ice cream, including a recipe for Pierre Hermé’s ice cream base. Chef Profiles: Fabrizio Collica, San Domenico, New York, NY Recipes: Collica: White Truffle Gelato with Sweet Parmigiano-Reggiano Tuiles Espresso Gelato and Chocolate Almond Cake with Cinnamon Sauce Dried Fig Gelato with Pistachio Cake and Almond Croquant Stadtlander: Cardamom and Ginger Filled Stollen with Plum Sauce Roasted Almond and Single Malt Scotch Ice Cream with Apricot Strudel Kashmiri Chai Ice Cream with a Rhubarb and Hazelnut Meringue Tart Walnut and Maple Croquant Ice Cream with Glazed Apples and Strawberries Rosemary and Lavender Honey Ice Cream with Pear and Sesame Seed Crêpes Locatelli: Calves’ Feet Salad with Mustard Fruit Chestnut Tagliatelle with Wild Mushrooms Spaghetti with Octopus Fried Ravioli with Plum Compote and Honey Eucalyptus Ice Cream Chocolate Parfait with Almond Brittle Staines: Terrine of Salmon, Red Mullet and Foie Gras Marinated Foie Gras Terrine with Endive Tarte Tatin Nage of Langoustine with Frog Leg Ravioli Trio of Turbot Banana Crème Brûlée with Sea Salt Caramel Ice Cream BEVERAGE FEATURE: “Fuel for the Fire” Short article on cooks and caffeine use. Back issues of Art Culinaire may be purchased by calling 1 800 SO TASTY or by visiting www.getartc.com.

ART CULINAIRE ISSUE 64 SPRING 2002 MISE EN PLACE: The editor’s letter. INDUSTRY SPOTLIGHT: “Keeping up with the Joneses” An interview with Bobby Jones, Jr., Bob Jones Sr., and Lee Jones, farmers from Ohio’s The Chef’s Garden. Chef Profile: Charlie Trotter, Charlie Trotter’s, Chicago, IL Recipes: Trotter: Ragoût of Carrots, Red Pearl Onions and Black Eyed Peas with a Corn Purée Charantais Melon Soup with Pickled Breakfast Radishes and Melon Blossoms Heirloom Tomato Terrine with Red Bell Pepper Sauce and Eggplant Purée Spring Beans with a Brown-Butter-Almond Purée and Curry Emulsion Potato and Brussels Sprouts Tart with Horseradish-Crème Fraîche Hominy Stuffed Bell Peppers with Huitlacoche and Asparagus Sauce BACK TO BASICS: “High Hopes” A feature on Brioche, including history, technique, and a basic brioche recipe. Chef Profiles: Geoff Gardner, Sel de la Terre, Boston, MA Sarabeth Levine, Sarabeth’s, New York, NY Recipes: Gardner: Coq Au Vin Blanc with Brioche Hearts Brioche Mille-Feuille with Pear Chutney and Poire William Mousseline Crème Caramel Custard with Chocolate Savarin and White Chocolate Ice Cream Semolina Brioche Bread Pudding with Blueberry Preserves and Bourbon Milk Jam Brioche Stuffed Napa Cabbage with Chicken Consommé Levine: Brioche Terrine Stuffed with Spinach and Feta Cheese Brioche and Cornbread Stuffing with Fresh Herbs and Shiitake Mushrooms Brioche and Cornmeal-Fried Shrimp Raspberry Bread Pudding with Crème Anglaise FEATURE STORY: “Uncovered” A feature on sous chefs and the First Annual Bertolli Sous Chef Awards. Chef Profiles: Michael Anthony, Blue Hill, New York, NY Gregory Short, The French Laundry, Yountville, CA Stefano Zimei, The Federalists, XV Beacon Hotel, Boston, MA Recipes: Anthony: Diver Scallops with Butternut Squash Purée and Wasabi Tobikko Smoked Salmon Belly with Avocado-Yogurt Purée and Pickled Watermelon Poached Shrimp and Jícama Salad in a Lobster Saffron Broth Braised Lamb Shoulder with Cranberry Beans and Soybeans Stuffed Rabbit Loin with Vidalia Onion and Watercress Purée Steamed Yellowtail with Pearl Onions and Parsley Vinaigrette Gregory Short: Roasted Rabbit with Spring Vegetables and Couscous New Zealand Venison and Red Onion Marmalade with Spring Bean Ragoût Carpaccio of Cantaloupe Gelée with Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta and Greek Basil Chilean Sea Bass with Tomato Fondue, Braised Garlic, and Lemon Sauce Zimei: Crisp Veal Sweetbread Medallions with Forest Mushrooms Fried Rock Shrimp and Ahi Tuna Tartare with Mizuma Salad Seared Halibut with Celeriac Purée, Green Apple Ragoût, and Radish Salad Seared Sea Bass with Cauliflower Purée and Roasted Baby Beets Soft-Shell Crabs with Watermelon and Arugula Salad FEATURE STORY: “Green Harvest” A short feature on the history and uses of Verjus. Chef Profile: David Féau, Lutèce, New York, NY Recipes: Féau: Gratin of Baby Swiss Chard Poached in Périgord Verjus Baby Artichokes Braised in Verjus, Rosemary, and Garlic Black Bass with Verjus and Green Olive Sauce Seared Quail with Verjus-Butter Sauce Poached Dover Sole with White Verjus Sauce FEATURE STORY: “Living Large” A feature on raw food. Chef Profiles: Daniel Patterson, Restaurant Elizabeth Daniel, San Francisco, CA Norman Van Aken, Norman’s, Coral Gables, FL Recipes: Patterson: Iranian Sevruga Caviar with Avocado Purée and Beet Tartare Spanish Mackerel Roulade Poached in Extra Virgin Olive Oil Heirloom Tomato Salad with Basil Sorbet Escarole and Kohlrabi Salad with Truffles and Argan Oil Chilled Carrot Soup with Pickled Mango Coconut Milk Froth Chanterelle Rémoulade with Hazelnut Mayonnaise and Herb Salad Van Aken: Tomato Bisque with Coconut Snow and Hawaiian Black Sea Salt Corn Water Martini with Pickled Baby Corn Raw Banana Split with Cherimoya Sorbet and Spiced Carob Sauce Raw Flaxseed Tostadas with Mashed Legumes and Cilantro-Sour Orange Verde Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with a Fennel and Orange Salad Faux Rice Nori-Maki Rolls with White Soy Sauce Vertical Fork Satays with Passion Fruit-Mirin Vinaigrette BEVERAGE FEATURE: “Dry Spell” Short article on the history of the cocktail. Back issues of Art Culinaire may be purchased by calling 1-800-SO-TASTY or visiting www.getartc.com

Roughly 4 1/2 ounces are called for in a recipe that calls for roughly 30 ounces of dairy product, suagr and flavorings. I believe it must be a stabilizer also. In this same recipe, which is for a yogurt sorbet, it also calls for a half-ounce of something called Yogurt fabri. Any ideas?? Thanks! lw

In the service of translating and editing Spanish recipes, have come across a sorbet recipe calling for something called "Prosorbet." Google turns up nothing of value; nor has the topic been addressed on egullet, as far as I can tell. Anyone know what it is? Thanks!

Thank you! I was getting the names verbally from a Catalan cook, translated through an Irish waitress. talk about lost in translation... Thank you to you both.

Editing recipes from recent trip to Spain, and one of the chefs (Carles Abellan of Comerc 24 and Tapac 24) has used mushrooms that were identified as 'perros chicos.' they are small, and the caps are quite rounded, so much that they almost look like chickpeas. Does anyone know of which I speak, and ideally, can you provide a Latin name? As ever, thanks.

I know this is a years-old thread, but I am trying to fully understand the form and function of the superbag, and would appreciate any enlightenment available from the egullet community. thanks!

I just got back from Barcelona and can recommend Tapac 24 -- it's Carles Abellan's new place, more of an authentic tapas bar than Comerc 24 but with the same level of excellence. It's on Diputacio, somewhere around 262. I also really enjoyed Cata 1.81, which is on Valencia 181. And if you're looking for friendly home food, I loved Casa Marcelino, also on Diputacio, don't have the exact address but it was on the block between Roger de flor and Napoles (I think...) And, if you're spluring a little, go to the Hotel OOMM and eat at the fabulous Moo, which is under the direction of Joan Roca. Have fun! I can't wait to get back there.

Thank you Judy -- a great help!

Am working on a story about garlic, have been considering the 'heirloom' angle. We've all heard about heirloom tomatoes, carrots, apples, et al -- I know there is heirloom garlic out there but the question is, are chefs willing to pay the $$ for it? And is there an appreciable difference in taste? Would love to hear from anyone who swears by it, grows it, sells it, or doesn't bother with it... Thanks!

What about cocktails that use vinegar instead of or in addition to fruit juices or other mixers? I have no sense if this will be 'big in 06', but I have stumbled across a few cocktail recipes that use vinegar from a few bartenders in las vegas, and a few weeks ago I used sherry vinegar and a hit of honey in place of lemon juice and sugar in a whiskey sour -- quite tasty.

I agree with everyone who espouses personal responsibility, but...don't you agree that shedding some light on the insidious practices of the mega-conglomerates who peddle the worst crap is a good thing? Because not every kid has the good fortune to have an educated, responsible, caring parent offering a carrot stick or apple instead of Corn Syrup Goop with Crunchy Sugar Bits...

http://www.adage.com/news.cms?newsId=47037 Seems like a kind of victory or at least a boon to those who are fighting for better public health and accountability in the US.

I like both of those ideas! We're just starting to digest the magazine and will work in reverse chronological order, adding new issues as they are released. there is quite a bit of demand for early issues of art culinaire (1 - 39) which are, unfortunately, out of print -- an electronic version could fill that need. i'll keep you, um 'posted.' (bad pun) You may already know that we have released three volumes of the 'best of' art culinaire, spanning issues 1-15, 16-30 and 31-45. These volumes include photographs and recipes (but not the feature stories or chfes' biographies) -- so that is one way to at least get the jist of those earlier issues. It's mind-blowing how much the business has changed, at least in a visual/aesthetic sense, since 1986!

A new format for us, yes, but in no way intended to replace the print edition. This is really a sample of what we do, a place to start discussion, a chance for interested egulleteers to learn more about Art Culinaire. lw

I like a book called 'Frozen Desserts' by Alain Berne, Jacques Joubert and Joseph Aimar, instructors at Lycee Rabelais. Translated from French. the first chapter covers basics of temp, equipment, et al. Also the French Professional Pastry Series.