Cooking with 'The Cooking of Southwest France'

[Wolfert]

For Christmas we went with a small plates concept and included 3 recipes from CSWF.  I had done each before and they required very little prep (very helpful when making 9 dishes).  They were the Potatoes in the Style of Quercy, Bacalao a-Pil-Pil, and Asparagus with Asparagus Sauce.

All were well-received, but the asparagus was the biggest hit.  I have made the dish about 1/2 dozen times now and it always gets a good response (especially from my taste buds).  It is more than worth the price of an asparagus peeler.  It's such a simple concept and people get a kick out of the fact that the peels of the asparagus make the base of the sauce.  This has become on of my favorite vegetable sides to make.

The book has a number of vegetable dishes that have become automatic sides, because they are both simple to make and delicious.  Off the top of my head, other than the Potatoes in the Style of Quercy and the asparagus, I make the Straw Potato Cake with Braised Leeks, the Eggplant studded with Garlic, and the Celery Root Puree on a semi-regular basis as sides.

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Here is a gentle reminder to add ONE pound to the "1/2 pounds" potatoes in the ingredients list in the Quercy recipe. It is 1 1/2 pounds in the 1983 edition but somehow got lost in 'translation.' What a bummer to happen to such a great and easy recipe!

[Wolfert]

Merci beaucoup for the explanation. We invented  similiar theories, but also got a little silly about it as the evening went on.    I used a trusted old cast iron skillet that I have for many, many years and I got the charred, smoky cabbage flavor.  Honestly, I thought the flavors interesting, but my easy-to-please-will-eat-just-about-anything husband was truly repulsed by the flavors. What an odd reaction. To each his own.

Maybe some garlic soup tonight.

(speaking of soup, we used the left over bones of the poussin and made an outstanding lentil soup that was 'bumped' up with a little of the left over garlic cream.  A bonne femme soup if ever there was one!)

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Did you see the Nora Ephron piece in the NY TImes the other day? She was waxing over a strudel of cabbage and apples

[mikeycook]

For Christmas we went with a small plates concept and included 3 recipes from CSWF.  I had done each before and they required very little prep (very helpful when making 9 dishes).  They were the Potatoes in the Style of Quercy, Bacalao a-Pil-Pil, and Asparagus with Asparagus Sauce.

All were well-received, but the asparagus was the biggest hit.  I have made the dish about 1/2 dozen times now and it always gets a good response (especially from my taste buds).  It is more than worth the price of an asparagus peeler.  It's such a simple concept and people get a kick out of the fact that the peels of the asparagus make the base of the sauce.  This has become on of my favorite vegetable sides to make.

The book has a number of vegetable dishes that have become automatic sides, because they are both simple to make and delicious.  Off the top of my head, other than the Potatoes in the Style of Quercy and the asparagus, I make the Straw Potato Cake with Braised Leeks, the Eggplant studded with Garlic, and the Celery Root Puree on a semi-regular basis as sides.

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Here is a gentle reminder to add ONE pound to the "1/2 pounds" potatoes in the ingredients list in the Quercy recipe. It is 1 1/2 pounds in the 1983 edition but somehow got lost in 'translation.' What a bummer to happen to such a great and easy recipe!

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Glad you made mention of that. That being said, I must confess that I automatically still reach for my 1983 version unless I'm doing a new recipe.

[hathor]

The Norah Ephron article is wonderful! Thanks. Somehow I don't think I'll get my husband to venture uptown to try cabbage struedel....long marriages stay long marriages when you know when to quit. Happy New Year all!

[Lesley C]

I have made several recipes from the book and most have turned out quite well, like the confit cooked sous vide and the squash soup.

Unfortunately, the potatoes Sarladaise really didn't work that well, but that's probably because I used Yukon Golds and I suspect I sliced them too thin, more of 1/16th of an inch instead of the suggested 1/8th. Basically the potatoes did not brown so I jacked up the heat at the end to produce a crust. I also would prefer the potatoes be seasoned during the cooking process instead of just then end. I found by salting and peppering just the top, the dish was a bit bland.

My big problem was with the Basquaise chicken I served for dinner tonight. When I finished cooking it, it was still quite raw. So I put in on for another 12 minutes and stuck in my instead read thermometer. Once it hit 170, I turned off the heat and let it sit for another 10 minutes (basically, I repeated the cooking sequence twice, making the complete cooking time 42 minutes instead of the suggested 20). To my dismay, some of the chicken meat was still pink at the bone.

Paula if you're reading this please help (I want to get this recipe right because the sauce is delicious). When you say chicken legs, do you just mean drumsticks or the leg including the thigh? I used just over 4 lbs of thighs and drumsticks, which equaled six thighs and four drumsticks. Also, a red flag went up in my mind when I saw that 20 minute cooking time when originally reading through the recipe. Is that correct? Also, I'm assuming all the cooking is still done on low heat. Is that correct also?

Edited December 31, 2005 by Lesley C (log)

[Wolfert]

I have made several recipes from the book and most have turned out quite well, like the confit cooked sous vide and the squash soup.

Unfortunately, the potatoes Sarladaise really didn't work that well, but that's probably because I used Yukon Golds and I suspect I sliced them too thin, more of 1/16th of an inch instead of the suggested 1/8th. Basically the potatoes did not brown so I jacked up the heat at the end to produce a crust. I also would prefer the potatoes be seasoned during the cooking process instead of just then end. I found by salting and

My big problem was with the Basquaise chicken I served for dinner tonight. When I finished cooking it, it was still quite raw. So I put in on for another 12 minutes and stuck in my instead read thermometer. Once it hit 170, I turned off the heat and let it sit for another 10 minutes (basically, I repeated the cooking sequence twice, making the complete cooking time 42 minutes instead of the suggested 20). To my dismay, some of the chicken meat was still pink at the bone. 

Paula if you're reading this please help (I want to get this recipe right because the sauce is delicious). When you say chicken legs, do you just mean drumsticks or the leg including the thigh? I used just over 4 lbs of thighs and drumsticks, which equaled six thighs and four drumsticks. Also, a red flag went up in my mind when I saw that 20 minute cooking time when originally reading through the recipe. Is that correct? Also, I'm assuming all the cooking is still done on low heat. Is that correct also?

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Sarlat potatoes are tricky even to cooks in SWF. After much testing, I think I have it right. They are best made with smooth and moist textured red potatoes as directed in the recipe. Salting throughout the cooking would have released too much moisture which would have produced too much steam. I am sure you weren't successful because you chose to use Yukons which have a denser, creamier texture.

(I know this to be true because I tried them once with Yukons!)

Chicken Basquaise: I use both legs and thighs. After heating the skillet over moderately high heat and then adding the duck fat and letting it almost smoke before

adding the chicken you do get a nice crusty and deep golden brown skin as well as partially cooked flesh. The chicken is then allowed to rest for 15 minutes while you prepare the sauce over low heat. This allows the flesh to continue to cook a bit. Then when you lay the chicken pieces on top of the sauce, cover, and cook for 10 minutes over low heat the chicken should be almost done. Another 10 minutes, covered, in residual heat should do the trick.

If your chicken legs and thighs are extra thick, then by all means extend the cooking time in step 3.

Edited December 31, 2005 by Wolfert (log)

[Swisskaese]

I tried to make the straw potato cake and I failed. Does anyone have a photo of how theirs turned out?

Sorry, Paula.

See my blog

Straw potato cake

Edited January 1, 2006 by Swisskaese (log)

[Wolfert]

Thanks for posting the photo because it helps me to see the problem.

The sides of your skillet are too high. Next time try a shallow cast iron or non stick skillet as indicated in the recipe.

Ideally, the moisture expressed from red potatoes quickly reach the cover and is wiped away at the intervals called for in the recipe. This allows the bottom potato layer to develop an even and thin crisp crust.

A skillet with shallow sides will make it easier for you to turn it over.

Do try it again and let me know.

Happy New Year

I found two photos on line :

http://jardihaie.free.fr/potager/pdt/diete2.jpg

http://www.iseria.com/iseria/cuisine/brandade-thon.html#plat

Edited January 1, 2006 by Wolfert (log)

[Swisskaese]

Happy New Year, Paula!

Thanks for the advice. I will use our other pan and try it again.

[Lesley C]

Thanks also for the Basquaise chicken advice.

We had the fleur de sel chocolate cake last night with creme anglaise and raspberries. Super delicious! Although, a bit tough on the liver (as the French would say) after an insane raclette feast.

[Richard Kilgore]

I have run into a few challenges in making the duck confit and would appreciate comments on two things. First, when I opened the packages of duck legs a few minutes ago and washed them, they had a mild sulphorous odor which concerns me. Is this normal, or should I return them? I went ahead and started the marinade for about five pounds of them due to time constraints, but I am sure Central Market here will take them back if they are bad.

Second, is there any reason not to combine duck fat and goose fat for the confit?

[Wolfert]

I have run into a few challenges in making the duck confit and would appreciate comments on two things. First, when I opened the packages of duck legs a few minutes ago and washed them, they had a mild sulphorous odor which concerns me. Is this normal, or should I return them? I went ahead and started the marinade for about five pounds of them due to time constraints, but I am sure Central Market here will take them back if they are bad.

Second, is there any reason not to combine duck fat and goose fat for the confit?

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Kryovac packed poultry often has an off-putting smell when you first open the package.

If the odor doesn't disappear after a few minutes of airing followed by washing, I think you might consider returning them.

A little pork or goose fat added to the duck fat makes the confit even better,

Edited January 2, 2006 by Wolfert (log)

[Richard Kilgore]

Thanks, Paula. After ten hours in the marinade, there is still a whiff of the odor, so it's back to Central Market.

[Lesley C]

I had the confit cooked sous vide for dinner last night. Delicious! But as Paula mentions in the book, it did lack that husky flavour (or is it musky flavour). Anyway, the melting tenderness made up for the lack of funky flavour.

I am wondering, though, if this confit could be treated like the regular confit, that is crisped up in a fry pan before reheating at 400F? Just to give the skin that extra crunch.

[Wolfert]

You should crisp the confit of duck cooked in the style of sous vide if you plan to eat it solo.

I provide a variety of detailed instructions for crisping duck confit ( traditional,

crock pot , or sous vide) on page 197.

My favorite method for crisping confit of MOULARD duck is from the Bordeaux-born chef of the Montreal bistro Le P'tit Plateau in Montreal. It is a brilliant and easy method.

Here is how he does it: You simply place a moulard confit of duck leg, skin side down, on a non- stick or ceramic baking dish or skin skin up on a rack over a pan, then bake in a 400 degree oven for 20 minutes or until crisp.

MUSCOVY and PEKIN duck confit should be crisped in a fry pan.

Edited January 3, 2006 by Wolfert (log)

[FoodMan]

I made a batch of confit about a week ago as well. They are currently maturing under their cooking fat. Today or tomorrow I will be packaging them and wrapping them tightly with some of the fat and freezing. I thought about leaving them in sterilized jars, but unfortunatly I have no fridge space and I am NOT leaving them at room temp in Houston .

I used the traditional method and a crock pot. I will never make confit in any other vessel. The slow cooker maintained a perfect 206F all the way through. It is big enough to handle up to 10 pekin legs. Also it is a Godsend if, like me, you have a spouse who is ultra-sensitive to the smell of duck fat (she does not mind eating the finished dish though). I placed the crock pot in the garage and plugged it in. This means that the garage was filled with the wonderful garlicky-ducky aroma instead of the kitchen.

I am hoping to use some of the confit for a Garbure soon.

Richard-

Sorry about the CM Muscovy duck legs! Here is a tip, buy the duck legs from your local Hong Kong Market. That's where I get mine. They sell excellent frozen pekin legs and for a lot cheaper than CM does. Only buy your fat at CM.

[hathor]

Thanks to Snowangel, we had the garlic soup last night and it was as good as you said. I had to keep insisting to my husband that there was no cream in it. Not for calorie reasons, but he just thought I was pulling his leg. Very interesting technique with the egg. Wonder what else it will work with...

And because it was a sleety, black-ice, no one is going out to the store night we had the Saltar (sp??) potatoes and they were fantastic. I only had some yukon golds around so I washed and dried them thoroughly and didn't run into problems. Other than next time, I make individual portion sizes to eliminate the squabbling.

The only so-so recipe I've tried was the asparagus with asparagus sauce and I think its because I used the finest blade on the food mill and I just didnt' get enough of the asparagus peeling essence to fully flavor the sauce. Next time, I'll try a blender.

And is anyone esle chuckling at Foodmans line: "Only buy your fat at CM". It just sounds funny, I'm sure its sound advice.

[Lesley C]

My favorite method for crisping confit of MOULARD duck is from the Bordeaux-born chef of the Montreal bistro Le P'tit Plateau in Montreal. It is a brilliant and easy method.

Here is how he does it: You simply place a moulard confit of duck leg, skin side down, on a non- stick or ceramic baking dish or skin skin up on a rack over a pan, then bake in a 400 degree oven for 20 minutes or until crisp.

Oooh I love the confit of Chef Alain Loirvel at Le P’tit Plateau, a restaurant which may just be the ideal accompaniment to your book

[Wolfert]

My favorite method for crisping confit of MOULARD duck is from the Bordeaux-born chef of the Montreal bistro Le P'tit Plateau in Montreal. It is a brilliant and easy method.

Here is how he does it: You simply place a moulard confit of duck leg, skin side down, on a non- stick or ceramic baking dish or skin skin up on a rack over a pan, then bake in a 400 degree oven for 20 minutes or until crisp.

Oooh I love the confit of Chef Alain Loirvel at Le P’tit Plateau, a restaurant which may just be the ideal accompaniment to your book

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Thanks to Carswell for nailing that method.

[muichoi]

While you're here, a quick question...I bought the wonderful new edition and am thrilled with it,but I wonder why you do not emphasise the deveining of Foie gras, to me the most important part of any preparation involving it. Is it simply that the foie you get is of a quality not available to us?

[Wolfert]

Good question. I decided to remove the pages on deveining foie gras when I tested the recipes with the Artisan Brand foie gras from Sonoma Saveurs. Due to special feeding and sophisticated production techniqus, the liver only needs trimming and surface blood removed.

www.frenchselections.com and www.preparedmeats.com sell Artisan foie gras.

If you prefer to use another product, here is the text that I removed from the manuscript: I'll post the drawings later on when I figure out how to transfer them to egullet..

To Devein a Whole Foie Gras:

Before deveining, let the liver come to room temperature; a chilled foie gras cracks easily. Cut away any surface fat and greenish parts. Place the liver smooth side down on a work-surface covered with a clean kitchen towel, with the smaller lobe to your right. Separate the two lobes by pulling gently at points A and B with your hands. If the surface membrane begins to peel, remove it.

Start on the smaller lobe. Pare off any bloody parts with a seesaw motion so that as little as possible of the liver is lost. With the inner part facing you, gently bend the smaller lobe lengthwise so you can see veins C to D to E. With your fingers, a pair of tweezers, or a small knife, loosen the exposed veins and pull them out firmly but gently, without breaking up the flesh. Set the small lobe aside.

The larger lobe has a more complicated network of veins. Begin by slitting the liver from F to G and pulling out veins F, and F2. From G to h to I to J, bend the lobe gently or slit it with a knife, if necessary, so that you can reach the veins. Pull them out. At J, where the vein separates into three major parts, cut carefully and pull out veins J and J2. If the vein toward K is not excessively thick, leave it in place. Trim off any greenish parts or visible blood spots Rinse the lobe in clear, tepid water; drain and pat dry on a kitchen towel.

After removing the veins from the foie gras , you can season the whole on the outside with a light seasoning of salt, pepper, sugar and a grating of nutmeg. Wrap in paper towels and refrigerate for up to 48 hours.

To obtain even slices, cut this smaller lobe lengthwise as shown in the drawing above.

You might have to click to get this drawing to show up on your computer

Edited January 6, 2006 by Wolfert (log)

[muichoi]

Thanks very much! can't get the picture, though. I'm not sure that it's practical or economic to order foie gras from America. Even the very best I can get here requires thorough deveining-even though a lot of people don't bother! Are you planning a second British edition of the book-not that there's anything unclear in the American one?

[Swisskaese]

I tried to make the straw potato cake and I failed. Does anyone have a photo of how theirs turned out?

Sorry, Paula. 

See my blog

Straw potato cake

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I gave the Straw Potato Cake Stuffed With Braised Leeks a second try and I had success. It is delicious. Here is a picture:

[hathor]

Michelle: that's gorgeous!!!

That dish is just amazing. Worth the little extra effort, don't you think??

[Swisskaese]

Michelle: that's gorgeous!!!

That dish is just amazing. Worth the little extra effort, don't you think??

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It is definitely worth it and we will make it again.