Salmon Chanted Evening

[jamiemaw]

New York Times culture editor Sam Sifton visits the PNW with a quest to eat salmon, with visits to Vancouver (Granville Island, C Restaurant) and Mayne Island.

"For dinner that night, we made our way to C, Rob Clark's steel and glass temple to contemporary seafood cooking on Howe Street, which is often mentioned when people get around to talking about Vancouver's best restaurants. Certainly it is fancy food, or at any rate expensive and dressed up as fancy: unbelievably flavorful Pacific sardines wrapped in double-smoked bacon and roasted crisp, for example, with rye berries, maple syrup and a grainy mustard vinaigrette; or "octopus bacon" wrapped around a Kagan Bay scallop, wi th a foie gras croquette, spinach and veal stock reduced to near blackness. These were delicious, but made me think of brawny outdoorsmen wearing black tie and patent leather slippers. You know that poor scallop was uncomfortable."

Curiously, he calls spring salmon 'king' (with an explanation) here for the benefit of his American readership, misses C's sutainability program wholesale and makes a few factual slips, but it's kind of a fun piece. He also manages to use the word 'maw' twice in the same article, something that I have managed to avoid for almost 20 years.

Here's the complete article.

Edited July 11, 2005 by jamiemaw (log)

[2roost]

While they say "no press is bad press' it is a little discouraging that Mr. Sifton's article manages to mention only one restaurant in Vancouver.

[Sam Salmon]

Typically lightweight piece IMO.

A bit of errata

1-There are 6 Pacific Salmon species here not 5 as mentioned.

2-Pink Salmon is in fact a delicious fish -something closer to a Trout than the typically strong buttery Salmon flavour but a toothsome delight all the same.

3-I've eaten in that place on Mayne-a totally forgettable experience-well except for the waitress who dumped 5 large glasses of water in another diner's lap-that I'll never forget.

[shelora]

I enjoyed the writing - it was fast paced and entertaining. Great opening hook. I noticed he enjoyed a bottle of the Winchester Pinot Noir over on Mayne Island. Ken Winchester is a very very good wine maker over here on Vancouver Island at the Barking Dog winery.

And I only found the one reference to maw, Jamie.

[Cap'n Crunch]

I just read that this particular story has climbed to 8th most emailed article in the newspaper. Great to hear about that many people intersested.

[Keith Talent]

I just read that this particular story has climbed to 8th most emailed article in the newspaper. Great to hear about that many people intersested.

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Nothing interests Vancouverites more than tangential mention in the east coast media.