CHI: Topolobampo and Frontera Grill

[docsconz]

Great pics and report as always, Eliot. I don't get there enough to really have a sense of consistency, but in my experience it remains the best Mexican food in the US. Your photos and report help show why.

[ronnie_suburban]

Great shots, Eliot.

FWIW, my recent brunch at Frontera was excellent and very distinctive. I had the Huevos Fronterizos and thought they were great. I too, wish it were a bit easier to get in there. But it's somewhat far from my house and the wait can sometimes be hard to deal with.

Best restaurant in the US? I'm not sure but I'll leave that for others to decide. What's important is that the food at Frontera is carefully and thoughtfully prepared and remarkably consistent. My favorite meal there is lunch because it's usually a 'no-line' situation and I can sit back and enjoy myself, as the pace is a bit more laid back.

Chicago is a great town for authentic, regional Mexican food and the fact that there is a bevy of great choices at every level of dining can sometimes obscure the significance of Frontera. But the door that was pushed open by Frontera was a supremely important one and the fact that so much great cuisine has emerged as a result, makes me appreciate it even more.

=R=

[molto e]

Best restaurant in the US?  I'm not sure but I'll leave that for others to decide.  What's important is that the food at Frontera is carefully and thoughtfully prepared and remarkably consistent.  My favorite meal there is lunch because it's usually a 'no-line' situation and I can sit back and enjoy myself, as the pace is a bit more laid back.

Chicago is a great town for authentic, regional Mexican food and the fact that there is a bevy of great choices at every level of dining can sometimes obscure the significance of Frontera.  But the door that was pushed open by Frontera was a supremely important one and the fact that so much great cuisine has emerged as a result, makes me appreciate it even more.

=R=

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The award that Frontera won reads like this: "The restaurant in the United States that serves as a National Standard Bearer for consistent quality and excellence in food, atmosphere, and service. Restaurant must have been in operation for at least 10 or more consecutive years." Another snippet on the award,"For example, the Outstanding Restaurant award is given to a restaurant that is at least ten years old and that has set industry standards."

Under those parameters, Frontera absolutely deserves the honor. I have never found consistency to be an issue at Frontera. I would defer to Doc on this, but...Frontera does what it does very well. I am not looking for spins on Mexican cuisine when I go to Frontera, the cuisine is true to its origin. When I eat Mexican food elsewhere, I judge it against Frontera and most of the time I come away feeling that Frontera is superior. The balance of ingredients whether in the drinks or food is remarkable.

[docsconz]

Thanks, Eliot for clarifying that. By those criteria, there is no doubt in my mind that Frontera/Topolobampo deserves the award.

[babern38]

This Wednesday I had my first visit to the Frontera/Topolo restaurant for a 7:45 reservation at Topolobampo. I went with my mother to celebrate the completion of the 2nd part of my medical boards. We had tried to kill time walking downtown, but eventually decided to head to the restaurant about an hour early to see if we could be seated or at the very least, have some of the margaritas I've read so much about.

We were told to wait in the bar and that we probably could be seated early.

At first we both ordered one of the seasonal margaritas(blood orange for my mom and mango-mulberry for me). While both tasted excellent, I was diappointed that mine was far too sweet and was more like drinking non-alcoholic strawberry daiquiri mix. I quickly finished that and ordered the proper Topolo Margarita. By far the best margarita I've ever tasted.

Anyway, we were eventually seated about 30 minutes before our reservation in the nice, much quieter Topolobampo side of the restaurant. I was predetermined to do the tasting menu with wine pairing, while my mother, learning the whole table didn't have to do the tasting opted for two courses.

Below is a copy of my tasting menu with my notes:

the meal was started with homemade guacamole with cucumbers and jicama slices for dipping. Nice guac, nothing that special. I would prefer regular chips for dipping since I'm not really fond of raw cucumber.

1. Tamal Primaveral - tamal of fresh-ground corn masa infused with garlic chives, english peas and cilantro.

2005 Lusco Albarino, Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain

- Excellent! A great start to the meal. Many flavors all combined to form a wonderful texture and flavorful dish.

2. Sopa de CHile Verde con Queso - creamy soup of roasted poblano chiles blended with camote morado (heirloom white sweet potato) and Samuel's hand-crafted cheese; pecan-smoked shrimp, grilled green garlic, and crispy epazote.

2001 Domaine Des Baumard Savennieres, Rochefort Sur Loire, France

- The bowl with the shrimp, chiles, and epazote was placed before me and the soup was then poured atop them from a little copper pot. The soup had a nice flavor and tasted a lot like lima bean soup. However, the smoked shrimp were amazing. It was like they had been bathed in smoke for days. I would have prefered a bowl of these alone.

3. Jaibas de Concha Suava - crispy-crunchy Chesapeake soft-shell crabs stuffed with homemade goat cheese.

2001 Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany Italy

- I don't ever recall eating soft shell crabs before, but I definitetly look forward to doing so again. Although, they probably won't be anywehere near as wonderful as these. My mom said this was her favorite dish of the night as well when I let her taste. This was also a huge portion.

4. Borrego en Clemol Castellano - roasted Crawford Farm lamb in clemole with savory bread pudding.

2000 Reserva Cune Vina Real, Rioja, Spain

- By far the most amazine lamb I've ever been served anywere........ever. The thinly sliced lamb was amazingly tender and flavorful. The tiny flakes of pasilla scattered around along with the chiles in the surrounding sauce gave a good amount of smoky heat that didn't come until 10 seconds after swallowing. The pasilla also had a nice chocolate-like flavor as well. An amazingly controlled dish where the spice (really the only spicy dish of the night) was not too overpowering, but actually improved the flavor.

5. Best of the day desser sampler - Chocolatey tropical mamey cake, crispy cocada wafers sandwiched with mexican mango crema, cherimoya ice with blackberry sabayon sauce.

2004 domaine Des Baumar "Clos De St. Catherine" Coteaaux Du Layon, Loire Valley, France

- Nothing too exciting or amazing about the desserts. The sorbet/crema concotions were the best. I was disappointed in the mamey cake which I had saved for last in that it basically tasted like a chocolate brownie and was a little dry.

Regarding my mom's dishes: She had ordered two:

first, the Ensalada de Esparragos - this never came. She was served the Tamal Primaveral along with mine, which we were not sure why, but suspected it might have been like an amuse for her, though hers was larger than mine.

Second, her main course was the Napoleon de Nopales - crispy wafers of nopal cactus sandwiched with homemade ricotta cheese and roasted vegetables. Spring cream of local asparagus, spinach, poblanos, and buttered spring morel mushrooms.

- I had one bite of this and that was all I could take. It was good, but far too rich to eat a lot of it. Perhaps I was just too full to evaluate the dish completely.

Final Notes:

- An amazing dinner. Service was excellent, except for the hiccup in forgetting/confusing my mother's first course. They did attempt to compensate by a free dessert, something like a strawberry shortcake, which my mother refused as she was already full. Plus, we saw the table next to us get that dessert and it didn't look that appealing or special.

- I had made a request to try huitlacoche (corn mushroom) since I've never had it and our waiter was very kind it checking with the kitchen to see if this was possible, but unfortunatley due to the season and availability the only huitlacoche they had on site was currently frozen. Points for trying though.

- I thought the wines were paired very well. I'm not used to wine with mexican food (though this food is not what I think of as mexican), but all the selections complemented the dishes and the various spices well.

- I definitely got a great taste of Chef Bayless' cuisine with the tasting menu.

- I was absolutely stuffed! The servings of food were very generous and the pours of wine even more so. It was nearly a complete pour with each course!

- I can't wait to return.

[docsconz]

Thank you for the well-written and considered report. I have to admit that I prefer tortilla chips with guacamole too, as the cucumber and jicama seem to "water down" the guacamole flavor, while the chips enhance it. Nevertheless, it is a refreshing alternative. Those softshells sound incredible. Whenever I have a cocktail at a restaurant or cocktail bar, I enquireas to its relative sweetness and avoid those drinks characterized as sweet. There is a big market for those drinks and should be no wonder that they are offered.

Good luck on your boards!

[babern38]

Well now that I am in CHicago for a month, I couldn't help but walk the mere 3 1/2 blocks from my hotel to frontera/topolo for another great meal. I arrived around 5:20 and instead of waiting for a table until 6 as I was told, I dined at the bar. Nothing on the frontera menu was really catching my eye, so I asked for the topolo menu and proceeded to order the:

Empanadas de Huitlacoche y Trufa Negra: flaky turnovers filled with Three Sisters Garden huitlacoche and black truffle; truffle honey, three-chile salsa, baby greens and aged Mexican queso anejo.

- I wanted to try huitlacoche on my last visit, but they did not have any available. I really enjoyed the flavor, but it was milder than I had expected. Since this was my first time with this ingredient I could be wrong, but I wondered if the empanadas might have been a little too fried or rich and covered up some of the flavor. I still enjoyed this new taste.

For my main I had the

Cochinita Pibil: rosy slices of Maple Creek roast pork loin over cochinita pibil (coarse shreds of achiote-marinated suckling pig slow-roasted in banana leaves with xcatic chiles); Tracey's sunflower shoot salad, homemade queso fresco and pickled red onions.

- delicious. The pork loin was extremely juicy and the shreds of pig were amazing. The habanero sauce delievered separately was delcious and while quite hot in the aftertaste, there was still plenty of flavor to make it enjoyable (but only in small doses).

While I am not that familiar with true mexican dining traditions, I've noticed several mexican restaurants give you tortillas with the meal. Perhaps this is simply likw bread and used to help mop up all the sauces. However, when combined with the food, I found the tortillas overwhelmed the delicate and complex flavors of the meats and sauces. Has anyone else felt this way?

I have now had 2 great meals at this restaurant and will be jealous of everyone nearby when I leave chicago.

[BryanZ]

Didn't know you could order off the Topolo menu at Frontera. Good idea.

[ulterior epicure]

Is the restaurant closed for some reason? It's "unavailable" on opentables right now. Just curious whether the computers are down, or if they're closed temporarily for renovations, etc...

[nsxtasy]

Is the restaurant closed for some reason?  It's "unavailable" on opentables right now.  Just curious whether the computers are down, or if they're closed temporarily for renovations, etc...

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Right now, you can get a reservation on opentable at Topolobampo for 5:30 tonight. Next week is unavailable; maybe they're on vacation for a week? The following week you can make reservations for.

Edited August 9, 2007 by nsxtasy (log)

[BryanZ]

Yeah, tried going here tonight. Reservation people weren't all that friendly. 5:30 was all they had.

[bobzemuda]

Yeah, tried going here tonight.  Reservation people weren't all that friendly.  5:30 was all they had.

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go at lunch...we walked right in and were seated promptly at the end of May as everyone wanted Frontera. We did not, having eaten there many times before.

It was a great experience which if I find the time will comment on further later....more then anything though we had some of the best service we've ever had.

[prasantrin]

I had lunch at Frontera Grill last month with my mother and a board member of the corporation that hired me for my current position. We arrived just before 11:30, and we were the last in line--there were a dozen or so people in front of us. Who knew it would be so busy on a Tuesday!

I had not seen our guest for more than a year, so we had some catching up to do. Our waiter, however, seemed annoyed at our "catching up" and I distinctly felt he was trying to rush us. It took us a little longer to decide on our orders (because we were chatting), and everytime he came by our table, he would look at his watch in an annoyed fashion, and the manner in which he spoke was brusque and unfriendly (to my ears).

None of us was terribly hungry, so we settled on the appetizer platter for 3, the sopes, and our guest also had the tortilla soup, and I had a mojito. The sopes were very good, as was the carpaccio of the appetizer platter. The rest was not really memorable.

We still had quite a bit of food on our appetizer platter, but the busser kept trying to clear our plates. Another sign they wanted us out as fast as possible. I understand lunch is a busy time, and they try to turnover as many tables as possible (more tips for the waitstaff), but I would expect more from a restaurant such as this. When I had lunch here alone several years ago, I had no such problems.

The food came to about $40, the drink was $10, and I left a $14 tip (probably a little less, but my credit card statement shows a $64 total). I think I overtipped, given that I felt so shabbily treated. We were there for maybe an hour to ninety minutes in total. If you want me out within a certain time, let it be known before I sit down. But I hate being made to feel unwanted.

[tetsujustin]

My girlfriend and I were in Chicago this past weekend, and we went to Topolobampo for lunch yesterday. All in all, an absolutely fantastic meal, though a bit pricy for my tastes for a lunch. Though I guess if you're going to do Topolobampo for lunch, might as well pony up the cash.

To start I had the Topolo margarita, which I would say ranks up there with some of the best that I've had, being from Texas. I was weary about coming here seeing as there's plenty of good Mexican food (not tex mex) around here, but the margarita really set the place on the right track, not too sweet, no super aggressive flavors, and really refreshing.

After a nice, homemade chunky guacamole as an "amuse," we started with a trio of ceviches, one being shrimp, one being sunfish, and one being calamari. My favorite was the shrimp because it had a super zing of fresh tomatoes, nice, light, and full of brininess and tomato flavors. The sunfish was also very good. I'd never had sunfish raw, but it's really tender.

My girlfriend had the Enchiladas a la Plaza which was very healthy, grassy, and fresh tasting. She'd never had huitlacoche, but she loves mushrooms so she was pretty satisfied with the meal because of that sort've subtle umami punch that you get.

I had the Politto en Verde, which was a really delicately cooked rock hen, though the skin could've been crisped better. Though the flavors of the purple tomatillo sauce really came through and was one of those bread (or in this case, tortilla) soppers. Really good was the tamale that wasn't filled with anything, though it was like eating buttered corn.

Again, it was a little on the pricey side about 45 including tax/tip, but I'd still come back. My girlfriend even commented that we should've came the day before. (we had pizzaria due instead, which was eh.)

[docsconz]

During a recent visit to Chicago, we returned to some tried and true places, including Saturday brunch at Frontera. We arrived at the restaurant as it opened at 10:30AM. My wife and I had flown into Chicago the morning before, while our friends had taken the same flight that morning. We walked from our hotel, the Burnham, in the Loop to the restaurant and then back again afterwards, when we walked to Milllenium Park and came across the Polish Day Parade.

The four of us were seated at the perfect rear corner table slightly elevated over the rest of the dining room and overlooking part of the kitchen bar. I love the decor at Frontera and Topolobampo. It is vibrant and lively, both traits that go well with Mexican restaurant dining, with wonderful art from the Bayless collection, gathered over Rick's many trips south of the border.

We wanted an early meal since we would be doing the Tour at Alinea that night with drinks at The Violet Hour before that. We also didn't want to sell the food at Frontera short. Brunch was the perfect solution.

We started with cocktails despite the hour of the day. I had a tequila based version of a Bloody Mary, the name of which unfortunately escapes me. It was superb!

Not being decisive in ordering appetizers our waiter suggested that we order the "Entremés Surtido: appetizer platter of cheesy quesadillas, crispy chicken taquitos with sour cream, tangy ceviche tostadas, crunchy jícama salad and guacamole" so we did. Great choice.

Jicama Salad

Ceviche Tostadas

Cheese Quesadillas

Chicken Taquitos

Guacamole

We made short work of all this - delicious and satisfying.

We each ordered a different main.

Enfrijoladas de Huevos "Toreados": black bean "enchiladas" filled with green-chile scrambled eggs. 24-hour Neuske's slab bacon, Frontera salad

Tamale with pork and sesame mole - a special

Chilaquiles L Guajillo: quick-simmered tortilla "casserole" with rustic red guajillo chile sauce, homemade crema, aged Mexican cheese (queso anejo), sunny-side up egg. Tangy baby greens.

Enchiladas de Mole Poblano: homemade tortillas rolled around Gunthorp free-range chicken, doused with Mexico’s most famous mole; black beans.

They were all excellent. I particularly enjoyed the Neuske's slab bacon in my dish.

Mexican Vanilla and Mango Flans with Mexican Chocolate Shavings

We shared the appropriately sweet dessert. I preferred the mango while others preferred the vanilla.

Overlooking part of the kitchen with a dining bar.

What is not to love about Frontera? The food is great and the ambiance and service are wonderful. I suppose if one arrives at a peak time and has to wait in line for awhile that can put a damper on things

[NancyH]

I admit to being a little underwhelmed by my only visit to Frontera, but those photos (and your descriptions) have me hungry to try it again! Doc - beautiful photos.

[docsconz]

I admit to being a little underwhelmed by my only visit to Frontera, but those photos (and your descriptions) have me hungry to try it again!  Doc - beautiful photos.

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Thanks, Nancy.

Any restaurant can have its ups and downs. I have yet to find a Mexican restaurant outside of Mexico that performs with as varied a regional palate as well as Bayless' restaurants do.

[ulterior epicure]

I admit to being a little underwhelmed by my only visit to Frontera, but those photos (and your descriptions) have me hungry to try it again!  Doc - beautiful photos.

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NancyH, I echo your experience. But, doc not being alone in having repeatedly successful meals at Frontera Grill, I am encouraged to re-visit and re-consider.