Edinburgh Recommendations

[culinary bear]

The new issue of Delicious  has an article by Tony Singh of Oloroso on eating in Edinburgh.  Covers restaurants and food shops.  Can post to anyone who is sufficiently interested.

Restaurants are Oloroso (obviously); Annapurna (run by TS's brother); The Apartment; Le Cafe St Honore; Chiang Mai; Duddingston Fry; Kweilin; Marmaris Kebab House; number one; The Outsider; Petit Paris; Rhubarb; and Vittoria

Shops are: Caledonian Fish; Campbells Prime Meat; I J Mellis Cheesemonger; Pat's Chung Ying; and Polypack.

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I can pare a few of them down here and now for you if you like.

Oloroso is laughable - It has very few grand ambitions, which is just as well considering it couldn't help but fail to live up to any of them.

The Apartment has had the same menu running for the last three years. A half-pitta pocket on the side of most plates filled with the same nauseating pink beetroot coleslaw does not make for a happy bear. Confusingly, it seems to be one of the most consistently popular restaurants in the city. The service was of an immpeccably consistent standard, somewhat lower than whale shit.

The Outsider is run by the same team as the Apartment, with the same identikit approach to the menu, and slightly less atrocious service.

Rhubarb is run by one Kenny Coltman, formerly sous chef at Number One. Interestingly, this means that the three chefs at the top of the Edinburgh tree (Jeff Bland, Martin Wishart and Kenny Coltman) all worked at the Balmoral at the same time. I haven't eaten at Rhubarb yet, but Kenny's a solid chef, and the failure of Farfelu. his restaurant in Glasgow, shouldn't be taken to mean much in the overall scheme of things. James Thompson has spent a great deal of money refurbishing Prestonfield House, and I can only hope that Rhubarb doesn't go the way of the Tower, and to the same extent the Witchery, in starting off well and then declining, at least from the kitchen perspective. The Tower used to be run by Steven Adair, now heading up Searcy's contract to run the restaurant in the National Gallery of Scotland, but after David Haetzmann's exit (formerly of Blue) things have lurched downward at the tower.

If such things were posible, I would glady bear Iain Mellis' children. The man is a godlike affineur.

It strikes me as an interesting choice of restaurants to review; not a list most people would make. The inclusion of teh Apartment and the Outsider, both rather flaky places, smacks of a bit of unofficial advertising.

Edited December 9, 2004 by culinary bear (log)

[tony h]

Does MW merit two stars, or is he close to the threshold?

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no - solid 1 star - nothing exceptional to make it 2 IMHO

[Kenny]

Thanks for all the reco's - am heading to Edinburgh for a couple of days in late January. Anyway, after a long flight from Australia I'll be ready for a good lunch, but would prefer somewhere with a decent winelist.

Any reco's for winecentric restaurants - Do Number 1 or Martin Wishart fit the bill, or are there other places worth investigating?

Thanks in advance,

Kenny

[howardlong]

Thanks for all the reco's - am heading to Edinburgh for a couple of days in late January. Anyway, after a long flight from Australia I'll be ready for a good lunch, but would prefer somewhere with a decent winelist.

Any reco's for winecentric restaurants - Do Number 1 or Martin Wishart fit the bill, or are there other places worth investigating?

Thanks in advance,

Kenny

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MW's wine list is more substantial than Number 1's, but sadly the markup at MW's is astronomical. So bad that I stick to the wines by the glass matched with the menus.

If you go to Number 1 in late January sadly you may miss meeting the delightful Sam, the sommelier at #1, who I believe will be heading to Perth on a Margaret River wine junket.

Oloroso has a great winelist, a shame neither the food nor the service is up to it.

Cheers, Howard

[Kenny]

Thanks Howard - much appreciated.

Cheers,

Kenny

[culinary bear]

If you go to Number 1 in late January sadly you may miss meeting the delightful Sam, the sommelier at #1, who I believe will be heading to Perth on a Margaret River wine junket.

Howard, did you ever met David Harvey? He was the sommelier when I worked there, and he would bring the heeltaps of unfinished bottles into the kitchen for me to try. Delightful man. Last I heard he was working in Cliveden.

[culinary bear]

It's been announced that Martin Wishart will be upgraded from three rosettes to four in the 2005 AA guide... Second star, anyone?

[howardlong]

If you go to Number 1 in late January sadly you may miss meeting the delightful Sam, the sommelier at #1, who I believe will be heading to Perth on a Margaret River wine junket.

Howard, did you ever met David Harvey? He was the sommelier when I worked there, and he would bring the heeltaps of unfinished bottles into the kitchen for me to try. Delightful man. Last I heard he was working in Cliveden.

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Hi Allan

No I didn't - but I am certain that Sam takes my unfinished business into the kitchen with her... I often suggest it if I don't take it up to my room.

Cheers, Howard

[fisherman]

anyone been here recently?

[Adam Balic]

Andy's thread on the state of the Brighton market remined me that Edinburgh often lacks a variety of decent fish in its fishmongers and resturants, which is bizarre since we are located near some great fishing grounds.

However, if in Edinburgh you don't have to get sucked into eating mushy farmed seabass. Great fish is found at "Eddies Seafood". These people are lovely and they stock a range of North Atlantic and Austral-Asian fish. The latter being fresher then the majority of 'local' fish I see elsewhere in Edinburgh.

Dublin bay prawns, razor clams and crab

Sabre fish. I have seen these in Sicily, but they are also very popular in the local Chinese community.

Kingfish from the Indian Ocean and some local Halibut. The king fish is about 120 cm long.

A mixed bin of South-East Asian fish, including tonights dinner.

Which will be these Pomfret.

[culinary bear]

Fantastic pictures! I've known Eddie for getting on for ten years now; firstly as the fish supplier to a restaurant where I was working, and then latterly when I moved to Marchmont and he became my local fishmonger.

I still vividly remember the time when I went in to find about a dozen Chinese guys animatedly haggling over a 12-foot basking shark lying on the tiled floor.

He's a really, REALLY nice guy and to all the Edinburgh (or visiting) eGulleteers I'd recommend going - if you can visit a few times you'll soon find yourself being offered the very nice stuff, usually at a bit of a discount. I go no more than three or four times a year due to my being in England, but I still get

a) treated like a pasha

b) trade discount

c) to poke about in the back fridges and see what's good

I'm so happy to see the pics up here, thanks Adam. :)

[Adam Balic]

Fantastic pictures!  I've known Eddie for getting on for ten years now; firstly as the fish supplier to a restaurant where I was working, and then latterly when I moved to Marchmont and he became my local fishmonger.

I still vividly remember the time when I went in to find about a dozen Chinese guys animatedly haggling over a 12-foot basking shark lying on the tiled floor.

He's a really, REALLY nice guy and to all the Edinburgh (or visiting) eGulleteers I'd recommend going - if you can visit a few times you'll soon find yourself being offered the very nice stuff, usually at a bit of a discount.  I go no more than three or four times a year due to my being in England, but I still get

a) treated like a pasha

b) trade discount

c) to poke about in the back fridges and see what's good

I'm so happy to see the pics up here, thanks Adam. :)

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Glad you llike the pictures CB. Eddie and his staff are incredibly nice people, even for a punter like me they make a hugh effort.

[Saucy Girl]

I'll be going on Sunday May 22 to Edinburgh for a business trip, returning to the US on Sat May 28th. I'll have my evenings free to eat and drink.

Any suggestions????

Thanks in advance,

Sausy Girl

[dellis453]

Lots of suggestions. Do you like any particular food? What sort of price range? It is a local holiday on Monday 23rd May by the way.

The List Eating & Drinking Guide has just come out and will soon be live on their website http://www.list.co.uk/eating/eating.html

Restaurant of the Year Martin Wishart - one Michelin Star - book now and definitely go for the tasting menu. http://www.martin-wishart.co.uk/entrance.html

Fish restaurants: Crellers www.creelers.co.uk or Sweet Melindas - tiny neighbourhood restaurant just off the Meadows and next door to the best fishmongers in town. 0131 229 7953

Restaurant at the Bonham - French/Scottish www.thebonham.com

Forth Floor Restaurant - Harvey Nichols 524 8350 - scottish cuisine with great service. There is also a brasserie for lower priced meals and a wonderful food hall

Great cocktails: Rick's Bar http://www.ricksedinburgh.co.uk/restaurant.html

Saturday tea: Plaisir du chocolat, Canongate (Royal Mile) http://www.edinburgh-festivals.com/citygui...pe=eat&vid=1641

I could go on and on ... Let me know if you need more info.

Danielle

I'll be going on Sunday May 22 to Edinburgh for a business trip, returning to the US on Sat May 28th. I'll have my evenings free to eat and drink.

Any suggestions????

Thanks in advance,

Sausy Girl

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[Saucy Girl]

Super! Thanks for the info.

If Monday May 23rd is a local holiday, are shops still open etc?

[highchef]

or just go drinking at the foot of the castle on Grassmarket. Man, what a hoot! The surviving member of '2 fat ladies' had a cookbook shop there but I never saw her. I wonder how developed the waterfront is in terms of good resturants. I never go to check on high end seafood resturants as I was strictly the tourist/chaparone. I'd send em to bed, go out for a pint or 2 and see them walk in 5 minutes later. There are too many back staircases in that hotel and It's impossible to keep teenagers locked up at night with THAT kind of night life going on so I pretended not to see them. I am soooo jealous.

[spanky]

Smaller shops might be closed on 23 May, but most of the bigger shops, cafes, pubs, restaurants etc will be open.

Unfortunately, the bookshop that highchef referred to is now a taxi place. Something to do with bankruptcy, I hear... (The Grassmarket, by the way, is stag/hen night hell at the weekends, so take some body armour if you're venturing down there!)

Can I also suggest The Atrium? Great food, unstuffy ambience. I also like Blue (upstairs from the Atrium) for a drink or two, and maybe a quick bite of lunch.

Ricks is pretty good for cocktails, but not for food. Be warned--I was there on Saturday night and there was so much sharking going on I thought I was in a remake of Jaws. Meat market! The bar at Harvey Nicks is also good for cocktails, and then you go get a table in the restaurant with a view over the city.

Pop into the Dome on George Street for a drink in splendid surroundings. Oloroso on George Street--okay bar, pretty rubbish (and absurdly expensive) restaurant. Inside, the bar has wonderful views over the city, but the tiniest windows to see them through. If it's a nice day, go out on the terrace, although service can suffer if it's busy. Better to try Centotre (service still somewhat erratic, according to the missis, but now with new downstairs bar addition so not as packed) or the Valvona and Crolla VinCaffe on Multrees Walk (close to Louis Vuitton, Armani, Calvin Klein etc).

For an intimate (ie tiny) place, try Cafe Marlayne on Thistle Street. They've also opened a second expanded place at the old Le Sept site just off the Royal Mile.

As dellis453 says, loads of places to go! Have fun!

Cheers

Spanky

[Saucy Girl]

THanks so much for the tips everyone. I'll have to report back after I return!

Cheers all!

Sharon

[Corinna Dunne]

I'll be visiting Edinburgh late in July and will be staying over for a Saturday and Sunday night. It's a girlie break (not hen party!), so I'm not looking for anything intimate or romantic, nor do I think I'll get a consensus on going to a Michelin restaurant. So what I'm looking for are recommendations for good mid priced restaurants.

And I've got a few specific questions too:

1. Is Marque Central still around? How would you rate it?

2. I see Centotre is the only Italian restaurant that is mentioned. Is it the best there is, or is it quite good in its own right?

3. Is La Garrigue still around and how would you rate it now?

4. Are Kalpna and Nargile still around, and any updates on these too?

And last, but not least, if you were to pick just 2 restaurants for dinner, what would they be?

Comments in relation to any of these questions would be very welcome, so thanks in advance.

[GeoffC]

>I'll be visiting Edinburgh late in July

Late July is a good time to visit (post G8, pre Festival) but Sunday’s are quiet nights in Edinburgh certainly as far as restaurants are concerned.

To atempt to answer your questions:

1. Marque Central yes, last time I looked, was still there. The menu always reads well and they usually have good deals early in the evening, it’s a nice solid choice for what may still be called ‘modern British’ (which is like ‘modern Scottish’ but with less “haggis in fillo with a raspberry coulis”). It’s not open Sundays and tends to get full if there is a play on at the Lyceum theatre (with which it, bizarrely, shares toilets).

2. Centotre is a bit of a barn acoustically but the owners (one half of the Contini family) work the room brilliantly, they are often open on Sunday but with a slightly reduced menu. The food is fairly solid, and the Italian language tapes in the toilets very educational. VinCaffe (next to Harvey Nics on Multree Walk – Edinburgh new upmarket shopping boulevard, which unfortunately always reminds me of Marvel Superhero Island at Universal Studios, but I digress, again) is owned by the other half of the Continis (V&C) is very pleasant but gets busy and you always come out spending more than you expected to (probably due to the good value wine list versus the slightly less good value main courses). Either would work well for a non-romantic non-hen party venue, VinCaffe closes early on Sunday (5.30pm I think).

3. La Garrigue’s authenticity occasional works against in (discovering that cassoulet in the Languedoc should taste the way is a bit of a disappointment) but the Chef / Owner is always about to talk to and the specials occasionally delight. Again, not open Sundays.

4. Kalpna (and it’s even more friendly neighbour AnnPurna across the road) is still there, Kalpna now has an all you can eat lunch, and would be the first choice for dosa’s, AnnPurna is first choice for patra and sintra bhaji. If you need meat in your curry Namaste and Kushis are within walking distance. All perfectly pleasant not the greatest city for ‘Indian’ food (with the possible exception of a mom and pop Punjabi take-away on the Dalry road). Nargile is great especially for a crowd who can be easily won over to the joys of set meals and Turkish wine, again not open Sunday.

Other suggestions, Harvey Nics restaurant rather than café is worth the upgrade because you get great views (Firth of Forth and Jenners mostly) and the chef is actually very good, certainly the sweetbread and langoustine salad I had last month was one of the best sub £10 starters I’ve had in a long time. The front of house staff aren’t that sharp (had to go and get my own wine from the ice bucket on the other side of the room on one occasion without anybody working out that wasn’t the normal way things are done), despite that (or maybe because of that) it’s the most ‘London’ restaurant in Edinburgh.

Haven’t done Café Marlene’s new venture, but I agree about the old one being pretty good, Petit Paris would be my choice on the Grassmarket, unless you want pizza in which case it’s Mammas; Coyaba, on Buccleuch Place is the number one destination for Curried Goat in Edinburgh, Szechwan house (I see a different thread I need to post on here) for great Chinese and for that late night treat Kebab Mahal – you know it makes sence.

Have fun.

Geoff

[adt]

Restaurant at the Bonham - French/Scottish www.thebonham.com

Briefly, for the record, had a very negative experience here (last autumn). The 'Bonham' carpaccio was the most horrifically salty thing I've ever attempted to eat - capers and parmesan and liberal big salt crystals... nothing to counterpoint and quite inedible. Very indifferent main, dessert and wine recommendation, timid over-formal service.

[PatyGirl]

I lived in Edinburgh for a few years, and my favourite has to be "Fishers on the Shore", in Leith, which serves the most delicious seafood. Once I ate Queenies with Champagne Hollandaise, and I honestly think it wa sthe best dish I ever ate in my life. Absolutely deliscious.

Ther's also a sudanese restaurant called the "Nile Valley Cafe", (although it's a restaurant and not a Cafe). It's near the University area, near Kalpna, that a few people mentioned. Lunch is great, they have the most amazing wraps. Try the aubergines, or the spicy chicken and baba ghanoush. Ummm... But dinner is excelent too. It's quite inexpensive for the quality of food, which 8is exceptional. But don't expect particularly good service, or atmosphere. The magic there is totally in the food.

The best inian is just across from Kalpna, on Nicholson Square. It's called "Kebab Mahal", and it looks like greasy a kebab joint. In fact, it serves the most traditional indian cooking in Edinburgh, absolutelt delicious.

The last place I'd recomend is called "La Bagatelle". It's a small french restaurant, on Brougham Street. The food is lovely, the Chef is great, and they have a fantastic wine list. has anyone been to any of these?

[persiancook]

I will be in Edinburgh this coming week. It will be my first visit. I would appreciate any suggestions for dining on a university budget.

[culinary bear]

What sort of cooking do you want to sample? There are options within many styles of eating to fit the more modest budget.

[persiancook]

Preferably seafood. Or great dessert. Thanks a lot.

Any suggestions for finding affordable cashmere would also be appreciated.

What sort of cooking do you want to sample?  There are options within many styles of eating to fit the more modest budget.

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Edited July 27, 2005 by persiancook (log)