Vancouver Island Restaurants

[dandelion]

I visited Victoria last weekend on just a short trip from Seattle on the Clipper. What a lovely city. It’s pretty amazing how a truly cosmopolitan feeling can get packed into such a small space, with great architecture, green spaces, shops, and of course food. I’ve been reading this thread (and others) for a couple of weeks to pick up tips on where to eat, so I wanted to report back on my findings.

Lunch the first day was at The Noodle Box (the downtown location). It looked good, and I’d read good things, but we were really convinced by the rave review given by a man delivering produce to the restaurant. We weren’t disappointed. I had the tom yum soup with tofu, and my friend had the chili plum noodle box. We both ordered medium spicy—man was it hot! I normally order my spiciness on the higher end of the scale, but like Fahrenheit to Celsius, the scale in Canada must be completely different. HOT! And huge… I couldn’t finish my soup, but it was very, very good. We sat at the bar looking into the kitchen, where we got to watch the chefs throwing ingredients around and tossing them into the woks, with the big flames and the great smells, it was a great show.

After walking around downtown, antique row, Beacon Hill Park, and the waterfront, we ended up back by The Empress, and very thirsty. In Seattle, someone had said that getting a drink at the Bengal Room was quite a scene, so we though we’d give it a shot. At 5pm, the wait (for non-hotel guests) was 20 minutes. The room looked cool, but for us the wait wasn’t worth it, so we set out walking north.

Eventually we would up at SYN Bar on Yates, which was rather disappointing. Someone had told me that this place was pretty cool, but it was completely empty and not particularly fun. Maybe it was too early. The bartender was both friendly and hospitable, but my goodness; he poured the weakest drink I have ever had.

With higher hopes for dinner, we went back to the hotel and got cleaned up, and went around the corner to Temple for dinner. No reservations, but we our timing must have been just right. We were seated immediately, but a line started to form after that, around 7pm. I really like the décor. Despite all of the white and glass, it’s actually rather cozy with the fireplace and banquette seating along one wall.

Starting with drinks, my friend had a Hoegaarden (my favorite beer, and it was on tap), and I had the Surly Temple cocktail, mainly because I’ve never had absinthe and I wanted to try it. The drink was absinthe, vodka and burnt orange peel, and only filled up about half of a martini glass. All I could taste was the anise flavor, and I didn’t go crazy or anything, but I did get pretty buzzed for it being such a tiny drink.

We started with the beet and arugula salad (salty, but the beets were good), and our entrees were one of the roasted chicken, and one of the wild mushroom polenta. The presentation was really artistic, with sauces, garnishes and everything all stacked up. Portions were rather small, and I thought “Oh boy, it’s one of those places,” but I actually wasn’t hungry at the end of the meal. The chicken was partially wrapped in bacon, with dijon mashed potatoes: d’lish. The polenta had a whole bulb of roasted garlic on top, which really enhanced out the flavor. The cabernet that the waitress recommended to go with it was perfect. For dessert we split an artfully presented pumpkin cheesecake. There was something going on with the texture of the pastry crust that I really liked, although again, the whole thing was too salty. The meal was around $90 before tip, not bad at all. I’d recommend it, although the “salty” theme was a little annoying.

The next day, Sunday, we tried to heed the recommendations on this board and that of our taxi driver and have brunch at John’s Place. Unfortunately, the wait for two people was 45 minutes. So we took a short walk, and found Demitasse. There was no wait for a table here. The food was really great, the service was extremely friendly, and the table we had it the back was quiet and warm. We each had a benedict, one with back bacon and one with spinach and tomatoes. I usually like my poached eggs to be pretty soft, but aside from that the food was fantastic. Each meal came with a side of roasted Yukon Gold potatoes the size of my head, and the hollandaise sauce was terrific. HIGHLY recommended.

Victoria... yum. I’ll be back.

[appreciator]

.....So we took a short walk, and found Demitasse.  There was no wait for a table here.  The food was really great, the service was extremely friendly, and the table we had it the back was quiet and warm.  We each had a benedict, one with back bacon and one with spinach and tomatoes.  I usually like my poached eggs to be pretty soft, but aside from that the food was fantastic.  Each meal came with a side of roasted Yukon Gold potatoes the size of my head, and the hollandaise sauce was terrific.  HIGHLY recommended. 

Victoria... yum.  I’ll be back.

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I Demitasse! Glad you enjoyed it too, Dandelion

This reminds me that I really must get back to visit and have a Victoria food extravaganza soonish!

[Daddy-A]

Last weekend was one of many trips “J” and I take over to Victoria. Her family lives on the island, so we aren’t always able to break away for some “personal” time. However, this trip we were able to focus on some of the finer aspects of Island dining.

Friday night was Brasserie l’Ecole, a long overdue visit considering the amount of “ink” Brasserie receives. We met up with Shelora and her partner “B” for drinks and decided, based on the menu, the hospitality of our dining companions, and some cajoling from the bartender Steve, that dinner was in order.

We started with duck confit which proved to be an excellent indicator of how the evening would progress. Perfectly crispy duck served atop a bed of pickled cabbage, apple & fennel … a beautiful balance of sour, sweet and salty that matched wonderfully with the Pinot that was selected for us. Such was the way the evening would progress on the wine front. I am admittedly ignorant of non-BC wines, especially those of French origin. It seemed silly to dine here without French wines so we put ourselves in Steve’s capable hands. I only wish I had a) taken better notes or b) kept the receipt so as to have a list of the wines we enjoyed that night. As both Steve and Marc are lurkers here, perhaps they could email me with the names of those wines and any errors I've mad in the menu items.

Mains were trout for “J” and rabbit for me. The rabbit was perfect … just slightly "wild" and tender to the bone. Mashed potatoes were thoughtfully provided to help soak up the extra sauce. But it was the trout that stole the show that night. Based on the one bite I was allowed I’d say this was the best fish dish I’ve had all year … including the fish & chips at Go Fish! (high praise from me indeed) Flakey and buttery and absolutely melt-in-your-mouth. We did write down the name of the wine “J” had with the trout … a 2001 Louis Latour Grande Ardèche Chardonnay (our Wines-To-But list keeps growing). We finished with an espresso and a couple truffles that made the word rich seem woefully inadequate.

A side note to Brasserie, and my apologies if this has been previously discussed. They have the most wonderful wine policy. They will open any bottle for single glasses, provided you have at least 2 glasses … a terrific way to try that Cotes du Rhone you’ve always wanted to sample.

The next day we met up with Shelora again at Choux Choux. A lot has been said about this place already and thankfully it lived up to the hype. Luke Young and Paige Symonds are rightfully very proud of what they do here. “J” and I shared the plat du jour (Ham Hocks with apple and fennel) while we thought about what to purchase. When I asked Luke which of his products gave him the most pride (besides the Serrano ham!) he just waved his hand as if to say “take your pick!” We haven’t had the chorizo or the green peppercorn pate yet, but the wine-cured beef and the St. Luke sticks (better than pepperoni) were excellent. We’re back on the island for Christmas and this will definitely be on the shopping list.

The catalyst for this trip was a gift certificate I picked up at Big Night (can you believe it’s been a year already?) for Paprika Bistro. “J” took me there for my birthday two summers ago and we’ve been wanting to come back ever since. Isn’t it great when something exceeds expectations? Paprika did just that, and why George & Linda Szasz don’t garner more recognition is beyond me.

We started with an amuse of some the charcuterie items for which George is so well known. Lamb prosciutto, fennel salami, black pudding and one other (sorry, no notes) were so well done we ordered the charcuterie plate from the menu as well. This plate was even better than the first, featuring a pork pate, rabbit terrine with foie gras, and a chicken liver and foie parfait that was so incredibly smooth it melted on your tongue. Incredible!

A fennel and beet salad with a light gorgonzola dressing followed … our veggies for the evening. Don’t mis-read this. The salad was not an afterthought, but well calculated flavours that played well against each other. Fennel and beets I know about. Adding gorgonzola was brilliant!

Mains were brisket in a caraway broth for “J” and roast duck for me. They were perfect comfort food for a rainy night in Victoria. Each was served with a pepper stuffed with morels and risotto. We later learned the veggies for the evening meal all game from their own garden that they had added since our last visit. The wine was an inspiration from the Winchester dinner at the Rosemeade (thanks Memo!) – 2003 Winchester Cellars Sharp Rock Vineyard Pinot Noir.

Dessert was some pastry thingy for “J” (no notes dammit!) and praline ice cream for me. Our server (Marlisa Hollands of Crush Wine Tours), who had been fantastic all night, put the exclamation point on the evening by suggesting a 2000 Alderlea Heritage Hearth. It’s a port-style wine, locally made … nose of stinky cheese (really!) with earthy chocolate notes. The ice cream was excellent, but in hindsight I should have had the cheese plate with the Heritage Hearth.

George came out and chatted with us for a while … a very gracious man who is very passionate about using the best local ingredients he can get. Seriously, you should add Paprika to your must-try list in Victoria.

Breakfast the next morning was with my FIL at Kitty's Hideaway. Big portions - small prices and coffee until your back teeth were swimming! It's in the Vacation Inn (3020 Douglas). Really excellent value.

Only 7 more weeks until our Christmas visit ....

A.

[merlin]

Andrew/Shelora:

Missed you folks by a few days. My wife and I got back to Alberta on Saturday after close to three weeks on the Island.

After a couple of weeks on Chesterman Beach where we met up with Chris aka Tofino we headed down to Victoria.

Monday nite we were tired and elected to eat in the hotel and dined at LURE. We had met Chris Mustard up at the Wick in Tofino and he suggested that we should look up Camilla if we went to the restaurant. As luck would have it, she turned out to be our server. Charming, friendly excellent server who knows and appreciates her wine.

My wife had a salad and then the roast duck as her main. The duck was supposed to be accompanied by dijon/goat cheese gnochi, roast veg and seafood dumplings. Both the hostess who seated us as well as Camilla were quick to mention that if seafood was a "problem" it could be substituted. My wife does not enjoy seafood...which of course begs the question, "why the heck do we go to Victoria several times a year?" ...and true to her "roots" asked for more gnochi. It came crisp, almost spaetzle like which is just how she likes it.

I started with the tuna carpacio. Brilliant! When it initially came I was a little taken aback as the pieces of tuna were a little larger, like big tapioca pearls, than I had expected. It came with some pickled ginger and was circled by curry oil. The latter really "worked" with the raw tuna. A delicious appetizer.

I then had their halibut, braised pork belly and apple/fig tarte. Beautiful presentation and delicious combination with contrasting flavours.

On Camilla's recommendation we tried the Alderlea Clarinet. I had not had this wine before and thoroughly enjoyed it. Camilla brought us a beautiful cheese plate to finish our evening with each cheese accompanied by a different jam, dip or flavour accent. Glasses of NIchol Syrah and Kettle Valley pinot gris finished off the evening.

Despite our intention to try different spots this trip the next day we ended up at two of our traditional favourites. Lunch at Zambri's and dinner at Brasserie l'Ecole.

Zambri's did not disappoint. Such good rustic, "honest" food. We shared servings of duck ragu with black olives over a penne like pasta and the roast chicken in a spicy tomato sauce over soft polenta along with half orders of crispy, garlicy zuchinni and sweet braised red cabbage. Both were outstanding. Simple but so full of flavour. I tried to duplicate the chicken dish last nite with not as much success. Washed it down with some decent valpolicella and Campo Fiorin.

That nite we wandered across the Johnson Street bridge to Brasserie l'Ecole. I won't go into great detail about the food because Andrew's description certainly matched ours...ok, ok...the real reason is that as per usual I willingly participated in an "immersion course" in good valued French wine thanks to Marc's outstanding wine program

I love their endive/frisee salad with the nuts and dijon vinaigrette mixing with the lardons. Have never been disappointed. My roast duck was delicious as was my wife's steak frites. The glasses of bordeaux from Fronsac not half bad either!

We waddled and weaved our way through the torrential downpour back to the hotel.

Our last day took our dogs on an extended walk through Victoria enjoying the brilliant weather and "characters" that inhabit Douglas past city hall.

We took advantage of the good weather by having lunch al fresco at Cafe Paradiso on Bastion Square. Nice panini's and salads, some decent bianco from Sicily and excellent coffee.

That nite we almost went to Paprika and after having read Andrew's post I almost wish that we had...next trip! However, we were not disappointed by our meal at Brio. Great service by Sasha and discussions with Sylvia concerning the art that covers the walls of the restaurant. My braised pork belly appetizer was melt in your mouth delicious as was the "honking" big grilled rib eye that followed.

Enjoyed a glass of viognier from Kettle Valley before dinner. Viognier was a nice "find" this trip. Had a bottle of La Frenz viognier at lunch at the Wickaninnish Inn when in Tofino which we also enjoyed.

With dinner I had asked for a bottle of the malbec from Sandhill's small lots program. It was not until we were about a quarter of the way through the bottle that I realized it was in fact their Number 2 rather than malbec. Oh well, it was good wine regardless.

However, due to that darn "problem" with evaporation we often seem encounter during "wet coast" vacations the empty Number 2 was followed by the malbec...ah yes, so much wine and so little time Delicious big black fruit, firm but drinking just fine now.

Once again, another terrific time on Vancouver Island....even bought Loto 6/49 tickets before Wednesday's draw with the fervent hope that I could afford to live there.

Next trip we will try Paprika and Rosemeade. Both were recommended by servers we talked with in the places we ate at.

All in all, a great holiday. Decent weather and good hospitality, food, wine and cider...I love the Merridale products.

[achiu]

I hear the duck is divine and probably one of the best places for duck (prepared in this fashion) in th province.

And pray tell, how do they do this duck?

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I'm not 100% on this but it seems like they confit the duck first (both the breast and leg) and then deep fry it to get the skin and the outer part of the meat crispy. The combination of crackling with tender and melt-in-your-mouth meat is really good.

Alex

[Daddy-A]

The rabbit was perfect … just slightly "wild" and tender to the bone.  Mashed potatoes were thoughtfully provided to help soak up the extra sauce.

It seems I had this one wrong ... must have been because of the Pinot Just received this in an email from Shelora:

The meal at Brasserie was rabbit with calvados and figs over fried polenta. It was the brick style of fried polenta is was creamy on the inside. I have a notion that cream and butter were involved in the sauce as well!

Mmmmm ... fried polenta

A.

[merlin]

Daddy-A:

Must be the day for mea culpas on Victoria mistakes.

In my post above I mistakenly referred to you and your post as Andrew rather than Arne.

You can blame it on the delayed effects of a myriad of libations or still being on "Tofino Time" and mellowed right out......

The rabbitt dish sounds delicious. Not surprised by the presence of calvados. I had a glass of coeur de lion calvados that was as good a calvados as I have ever had. On an earlier visit Marc had another with an actual apple inside the bottle like the pear in the pear flavoured eau de vie which was even better and a pommeau de normandie [French cider fortified with calvados and aged in oak barrels] which was also delicious.

[Daddy-A]

In my post above I mistakenly referred to you and your post as Andrew rather than Arne.

You can blame it on the delayed effects of a myriad of libations or still being on "Tofino Time" and mellowed right out......

I often blame misposts on a "myriad of libations."

A.

[shelora]

The rabbit was perfect … just slightly "wild" and tender to the bone.  Mashed potatoes were thoughtfully provided to help soak up the extra sauce.

It seems I had this one wrong ... must have been because of the Pinot Just received this in an email from Shelora:

The meal at Brasserie was rabbit with calvados and figs over fried polenta. It was the brick style of fried polenta is was creamy on the inside. I have a notion that cream and butter were involved in the sauce as well!

Mmmmm ... fried polenta

A.

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Oh my, I've got a correction, too. I meant to say is wasn't the brick style of fried polenta, this one was creamy on the inside, with just a bit of crust.

Since Mr. B was sitting between us, we must have both been coveting his mashed potatoes.

Edited November 1, 2005 by shelora (log)

[canucklehead]

Paprika did just that, and why George & Linda Szasz don’t garner more recognition is beyond me... 

We started with an amuse of some the charcuterie items for which George is so well known.  Lamb prosciutto, fennel salami, black pudding and one other (sorry, no notes) were so well done we ordered the charcuterie plate from the menu as well. 

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Two questions:

1) Is are the Szasz's the same people who used own the deli/coffee shop on South Granville?

2) Were the prosciutto and salami house made? Could it possible that they were from Salumi (if not how do they compare)? If someone is able to import Salumi stuff to Vancouver Island - surely they could brought into Vancouver. I am desperately hoping...

[Daddy-A]

1) Is are the Szasz's the same people who used own the deli/coffee shop on South Granville?

Yep ... his parents in fact. That's where George cut his teeth so to speak on charcuterie.

2) Were the prosciutto and salami house made?

Gasp! Nope, all made in house.

You're coming over in December right? Shall I make your reservation now?

A.

[canucklehead]

Victoria was featured on the CNN website today.

The report was very very positive - but it was the usual focus on the Empress and Delta - but it mentioned some local restaurants.

Il Terrazzo

Elephant and Castle and

Nautical Nellies

I think that they missed the ferry on mentioning a few other places - but still - good vibes for Victoria.

Here is the article

[Andrew Morrison]

Saw that, too. Same old bummer. E&C? God only knows what FoxNews might have come up with...

There is a short read in the new Van Mag about the changing face of dining in Victoria...should any of you come across it and/or care for that sort of thing. Featured restaurants were the Rosemeade, Temple, and my breakfast fave, Mo:Le (which I'm very happy to see found its way into the Eating and Drinking Guide this year).

Edited December 7, 2005 by Andrew Morrison (log)

[drinkingchef]

Props to Mo:Le, its my new breakfast fave also.

What have you tried there. I had the chantrelle and back bacon srambled eggs the first time we went there. WOW. Chantrelles + eggs = little slice of heaven

Last week I tried the spot prawn and jerusalem artichoke benny, also very yummy, but I'm still dreaming of those chantrelles

[Brenda]

Ok Egulleters, I need help. I have a foodie coming to Nanaimo. On a Sunday, no less. And he wants to go out to dinner in Nanaimo that night.

The Wesley Street is closed Sundays which is too bad as it would have been right up his alley. Where else can I get good food in a place that's NOT a chain and that's not Glow ? (Sorry, but the food there is really not very good.)

Oh and I don't want to have to drive for miles. Does anyone have any ideas? I live here, and I feel as if it's a foodie desert. Sigh....

[ColinD]

If you are willing to drive 20 minutes north you can come and try us out (sorry shameless plug).

Colin

[tofino]

Acme Bar and Grill is a decent option - wide ranging menu - decent drinks - always busy! Have had decent meals at Longwood Brewing Pub (for a brewpub that is), otherwise mostly fast food, chain restaurants and average pub fare - sorry!

[Brenda]

If you are willing to drive 20 minutes north you can come and try us out (sorry shameless plug).

Colin

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The plug is fine. Actually, that's not a bad idea. You're open on Sundays?

[ColinD]

open til 9pm

Colin

[paul mitchell]

.....I second the vote on Acme - my friend Dorian runs the sushi bar there - he's a dynamite guy - mention my name and he might laugh a bit (more than a few drunken adventures with the lad) but he'll sort you out.

Paul

[Brenda]

.....I second the vote on Acme - my friend Dorian runs the sushi bar there - he's a dynamite guy - mention my name and he might laugh a bit (more than a few drunken adventures with the lad) but he'll sort you out.

Paul

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Oh you mean "Prince Dorian"? He's quite famous among some younger Nanaimo women or so I'm told!

[shelora]

Early January - Victoria Update.

Herald Street Caffe - as I posted on another thread - is papered up with a handwritten note that claims new ownership and an opening of late January.

Brasserie L'ecole has been under wraps - plain brown wrapping that is - for renovations. So far, you can see the blasted glass windows with their great logo that will give greater privacy to the room and inside, the kitchen is expanding and being reconfigured to allow for greater efficiency. They are also expanding out the back for patio seating. The sign on the door claims a Friday the 13th opening.

Daidoco - is under cover of paper as well with a claim of renovations. Will investigate further today.

And a Cobs bakery has reared its face in Oak Bay.

Shelora

[the_real_sparky]

Early January - Victoria Update.

Brasserie L'ecole has been under wraps - plain brown wrapping that is - for renovations. So far, you can see the blasted glass windows with their great logo that will give greater privacy  to the room and inside, the kitchen is expanding and being reconfigured to allow for greater efficiency. They are also expanding out the back for patio seating. The sign on the door claims a Friday the 13th opening.

Shelora

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As renovations by definition go over budget and past deadlines, Brasserie "l'ecole" will be closed for at least an additional week. Hopefully by Friday January 20th the new kitchen will be ready.

[Memo]

Early January - Victoria Update.

Brasserie L'ecole has been under wraps - plain brown wrapping that is - for renovations. So far, you can see the blasted glass windows with their great logo that will give greater privacy  to the room and inside, the kitchen is expanding and being reconfigured to allow for greater efficiency. They are also expanding out the back for patio seating. The sign on the door claims a Friday the 13th opening.

Shelora

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As renovations by definition go over budget and past deadlines, Brasserie "l'ecole" will be closed for at least an additional week. Hopefully by Friday January 20th the new kitchen will be ready.

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I heard they won't be opening until February 1st. That's the first date that appears on their website's reservation page.

Memo, Insider to the Stars

Edited January 10, 2006 by Memo (log)

[merlin]

LOL...hey Sparky...real or otherwise [grin]...

Good to hear from you...Sandy and I hope to be out toward the end of February...mind you with this Albertan winter being as mild as it has been to date a break to Victoria is not necessary as it usually is by this time of the year...mind you a lot can change very quickly in these parts...

Hang in with the chaos