DiBruno's Upgrades 9th Street

[MarketStEl]

I guess it was only a matter of time. The opening of a DiBruno Brothers Pronto at 9th and Montrose should have been a signal, but I ignored it.

Then, last week, it hit me. The management of DiBruno Bros. finally figured out that their 9th Street customers were just as willing to shell out for really good cheeses from around the world as their Rittenhouse Square customers have been.

Which is not to say that they weren't selling really good cheese on 9th Street in the past. They were. It's just that they were often selling it for less than they were on Rittenhouse Square.

The price differential was more noticeable in their more commercial varieties. For instance, a mass-produced brand of smoked Gouda from Holland would set you back $5.99 a pound on 18th Street, but only $3.99 a pound on 9th Street. Or you could get a pound of their domestic house Parmesan for $5.99 on 9th Street.

Now, maybe they've just stashed the smoked Gouda away where the patrons can't spot it so easily, but I certainly didn't notice any among the artisanal and specialty cheeses from around the world that now occupy the most prominent display spaces at the 9th Street shop. Or maybe they carry that stuff up the street at Pronto, where you can find pre-packaged quantities of several of their bast-selling cheeses. And that domestic Parmesan? It's not $5.99 a pound any more, and you have to specify it. Ask for Parmesan grated there, and they'll give you Reggiano Parmigiano--admittedly a much better variety, but also costlier.

Now that I'm making a decent paycheck, I'm quite willing to pay for these really good cheeses--and that "cheese plate of the week" feature where they throw in a tasting guide and cheese knife if you buy all of their recommended varieties is a neat deal too, and a good way to learn about new cheeses. But this nonetheless strikes me as yet another departure from the bargain-hunter's-paradise ethos that used to rule most Italian Market merchants. I'm not at all convinced that the slow disappearance of the good-but-cheap stuff is an unalloyed good.

What's a food lover with limited means to do any more?

[marinade]

The price differential between 9th and 18th could be due to rent and marketing to the Rittenhouse Square crowd (and commuters). The other thing that got me thinking from your post is that could be a devalued dollar taking effect on some of the imports. How do similar items price out at Claudio's or Down Town Cheese or Whole Foods? Maybe in the next few days or so we can post some price checks.

I guess it was only a matter of time.  The opening of a DiBruno Brothers Pronto at 9th and Montrose should have been a signal, but I ignored it.

Then, last week, it hit me.  The management of DiBruno Bros. finally figured out that their 9th Street customers were just as willing to shell out for really good cheeses from around the world as their Rittenhouse Square customers have been.

Which is not to say that they weren't selling really good cheese on 9th Street in the past.  They were.  It's just that they were often selling it for less than they were on Rittenhouse Square.

The price differential was more noticeable in their more commercial varieties.  For instance, a mass-produced brand of smoked Gouda from Holland would set you back $5.99 a pound on 18th Street, but only $3.99 a pound on 9th Street.  Or you could get a pound of their domestic house Parmesan for $5.99 on 9th Street.

Now, maybe they've just stashed the smoked Gouda away where the patrons can't spot it so easily, but I certainly didn't notice any among the artisanal and specialty cheeses from around the world that now occupy the most prominent display spaces at the 9th Street shop.  Or maybe they carry that stuff up the street at Pronto, where you can find pre-packaged quantities of several of their bast-selling cheeses.  And that domestic Parmesan?  It's not $5.99 a pound any more, and you have to specify it.  Ask for Parmesan grated there, and they'll give you Reggiano Parmigiano--admittedly a much better variety, but also costlier.

Now that I'm making a decent paycheck, I'm quite willing to pay for these really good cheeses--and that "cheese plate of the week" feature where they throw in a tasting guide and cheese knife if you buy all of their recommended varieties is a neat deal too, and a good way to learn about new cheeses.  But this nonetheless strikes me as yet another departure from the bargain-hunter's-paradise ethos that used to rule most Italian Market merchants.  I'm not at all convinced that the slow disappearance of the good-but-cheap stuff is an unalloyed good.

What's a food lover with limited means to do any more?

←

[Lisa1349]

Thanks for noticing Sandy, that we're making lots of improvements.

We're more aware than ever that cheese is more readily available and we need to make sure our customers make it a point to come to us for the quality goods.

We make offerings to the cheese Gods daily that the dollar will be better positioned amongst the euro, but it really makes a big impact on cost. Not only on the actual price of the product but on shipping as well. Some products have increased by a third or more since I began working there 2 years ago.

Cheese popularity has also increased causing further price increases. We frequently encounter farmers who cannot keep up with demand. Hence, any product they have left now costs more to gauge how badly you want it.

American Artisanal cheese prices are not competitive either. The cost to produce cheese here, where farmers are paid subsidies NOT to produce milk is absurd.

The movement to mandate olive oil production also hurts prices in that market. IGP and DOP designation, soon the norm for most oil adds the cost of certifications and regulates which olives and where they are from can make up your bottle. It removes some of the previous inconsistency from one batch to the next, at a cost. Many don't know Italy is currently the largest IMPORTER of olive oil. To be repackaged and labeled 'bottled in Italy'. Spain is the largest oil producer.

We are working hard to streamline our shops, in preparation for our move around the corner in Rittenhouse Square, scheduled for May. It really is going to be a retail experience like no other in Philadelphia.

[Pontormo]

Is there not a thread dedicated to all things DiBruno in this forum?

I just conducted a search and this was best of two recovered.

At any rate, I was told by my neighborhood Italian place that they've been selling me a domestic pancetta all these years. It's from PA and the best option they have. According to one of the long-timers, you can't get Italian imported pancetta--or at least they can't.

Is this true? I was wondering if a regular shopper could make an inquiry during your next trip to DiBruno's or other wonderful local source for Italian groceries.

Edited November 30, 2006 by Pontormo (log)

[mrbigjas]

Is there not a thread dedicated to all things DiBruno in this forum?

I just conducted a search and this was best of two recovered.

At any rate, I was told by my neighborhood Italian place that they've been selling me a domestic pancetta all these years.  It's from PA and the best option they have.  According to one of the long-timers, you can't get Italian imported pancetta--or at least they can't.

Is this true?  I was wondering if a regular shopper could make an inquiry during your next trip to DiBruno's or other wonderful local source for Italian groceries.

←

how about that--i didn't know that.

i'm there all the time (it's on my way home from work) and will ask if i can remember to do so.

i have lots of speculations about the state of dibrunos, but since they're only based on my observations, i'm hesitant to post them.

[cdh]

Lisa1349 is our resident DiBruno's expert... hopefully she could be pursuaded to fill us in on the yummy news from there. Lisa, you out there?

[MarketStEl]

Is there not a thread dedicated to all things DiBruno in this forum?

I just conducted a search and this was best of two recovered.

At any rate, I was told by my neighborhood Italian place that they've been selling me a domestic pancetta all these years.  It's from PA and the best option they have.  According to one of the long-timers, you can't get Italian imported pancetta--or at least they can't.

Is this true?  I was wondering if a regular shopper could make an inquiry during your next trip to DiBruno's or other wonderful local source for Italian groceries.

←

how about that--i didn't know that.

i'm there all the time (it's on my way home from work) and will ask if i can remember to do so.

i have lots of speculations about the state of dibrunos, but since they're only based on my observations, i'm hesitant to post them.

←

Your observations are what they are, and you really shouldn't hesitate to share them for fear that they might not jibe with majority sentiment on this board.

Obviously, DiBruno's is doing lots of things right when it comes to offering specialty grocery items, and that Specialty Food Retailer of the Year award the store won this year should serve as proof of that. But that doesn't mean that everyone will have the same opinion about what they're doing. Recall that my post that started this thread was at once an acknowledgement that the original 9th Street store had dramatically improved the quality of the cheeses it offered and a lament over the disappearance of the bargain-hunter's-paradise aspect of the operation. Lisa, in her initial response, offered a good explanation of why those days of cheese bargains were gone for good, and I'm sure she's big enough to take--and even respond to--any critical comments you may have about the place.

[Lisa1349]

While I'm defintely still 'out there' I can't be called the Di Bruno's expert anymore. I took some time off, married the long time beau, and will explore other options in the food world soon. I did stop in to Di Bruno's before Thanksgiving to get some goods for my table, and things look better than ever. It's Vacherin Mont D'Or season in the cheese cave!

As for pancetta, I've never seen an imported one in this country. Guanciale & lardo as well, all domestic, all over. Our USDA doesn't allow the items in because they haven't been cured long enough and are considered raw. A quick google yielded great looking pancetta with cinnamon from Salumi, Armandino Batali's shop in Seattle, and great offerings from D'Artagnan, all made in the good ol' US of A.

On a product finding adventure to Bologna, people traveling with me looked at me strangely when I rejoiced at finding a 1 kilo chunk of lardo in cryovac that I smuggled home. It was the tastiest fat ever, I put it into the meatballs in The Splendid Table cookbook.

[JasonZ]

If it passes muster with Emiglio or his kin, it's good enough for me, whether it's from the USA or Italy.

My only fear with USA products is that our USDA seems to think that unpateurized cheeses and cured hams that haven't killed anyone in centuries "might be dangerous", while our corn-fed feedlot cattle full of hormones and antibiotics can be labeled "natural" and "no preservatives"!! Seems like the lunatics are running the asylum.

[Pontormo]

Thanks for the information, Lisa. I knew about the problem with guanciale, but naively thought that the item wasn't imported since it wasn't as familiar to Americans as pancetta is.