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Steak in Restaurants in France


menton1

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For Americans craving a steak while in France, be reminded that the steaks here are quite a different lot than the ones you are used to at home. I was reminded of this while sitting in a French restaurant with friends on a recent trip to French St Martin. One of my friends ordered the steak, and she was quite disappointed when it arrived. The steaks are for the most part, pan fried in butter. This is quite a surprise for someone expecting the aged, thick, char-grilled variety.

I happen to love the steaks in France, and especially the wonderful homemade frites that come with them (especially the puffed-up types). But for the less adventurous, be aware that the steak you are ordering will bear little resemblance to the ones you are used to in the US.

N.B. There is a chain of restaurants, usually at the Autoroute exits, that makes steaks in the American style. The name escapes me at this moment, but they are all built in a distinctive building style as a house with conical roof shapes. I think there are many of these all over the country.

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N.B.  There is a chain of restaurants, usually at the Autoroute exits, that makes steaks in the American style.  The name escapes me at this moment, but they are all built in a distinctive building style as a house with conical roof shapes.  I think there are many of these all over the country.

You must be talking about "Courtepaille". They're the only one I can think of with a conical roof. Probably the best bet for "chain" food, I have to agree. The likes of Hippopotamus and Buffalo Grill have to be avoided at all costs. They're dreadful, IMO.

Cheers,

Mike.

"Je préfère le vin d'ici à l'au-delà"

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Today's Figaroscope has a list of Paris places for Cotes de Boeuf.  See the Dossier here.

They are:

La Dinee

Apicius

Pearl

Boucherie Rouliere

Le Moulin a Vent

Le Cafe de Commerce

Hippopotamus

Titi Parisien

Le Boeuf couronne

Interesting list. We have enjoyed many excellent dishes at La Dinee over the years, but a cote de boeuf is probably the last thing I would order there, as their plates are seldom so simple.

Oh...more likely they refer to the newish dining room next door called La Plancha de La Dînée, which features less mannered offerings with a probable emphasis on grilled meats. This separate phone number is 01.45.54.54.04

85, rue Leblanc, 15e.

eGullet member #80.

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The likes of Hippopotamus and Buffalo Grill have to be avoided at all costs. They're dreadful, IMO.

I wonder if anyone still eats at Buffalo Grill after the mad cow related scandal that made the news in January of 2003. Is it even still in business?

"A chicken is just an egg's way of making another egg." Samuel Butler
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For Americans craving a steak while in France, be reminded that the steaks here are quite a different lot than the ones you are used to at home.  I was reminded of this while sitting in a French restaurant with friends on a recent trip to French St Martin.  One of my friends ordered the steak, and she was quite disappointed when it arrived.  The steaks are for the most part, pan fried in butter.  This is quite a surprise for someone expecting the aged, thick, char-grilled variety. 

I happen to love the steaks in France, and especially the wonderful homemade frites that come with them (especially the puffed-up types).  But for the less adventurous, be aware that the steak you are ordering will bear little resemblance to the ones you are used to in the US. 

N.B.  There is a chain of restaurants, usually at the Autoroute exits, that makes steaks in the American style.  The name escapes me at this moment, but they are all built in a distinctive building style as a house with conical roof shapes.  I think there are many of these all over the country.

Today's Figaroscope has a list of Paris places for Cotes de Boeuf. See the Dossier here.

They are:

La Dinee

Apicius

Pearl

Boucherie Rouliere

Le Moulin a Vent

Le Cafe de Commerce

Hippopotamus

Titi Parisien

Le Boeuf couronne

Believe it or not, "Courtepaille" may actually deliver a steak experience much much closer to an American steakhouse than these fancy places listed here!! The French actually prefer their steaks pan-fried.

And thanks, winemike, yes, "Courtepaille" is exactly the place I was referring to.

Edited by menton1 (log)
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Courtepaille - Yak!

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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Courtepaille is not that bad for the price and the convenience. They're usually off autoroutes for crying out loud. It's certainly better than Black Angus or Outback Steakhouse since we're talking about American style steaks. (yeah I know Outback is Australian so don't post a correction. :rolleyes:) If there was an equivilant in America I'd take road trips more often.

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"Courtepaille is not that bad for the price and the convenience." (My emphasis.) Bear in mind that this is an English language web site and many, if not most, of the participants have to go out of their way to just be in France. We don't go to France for the convenience, we go for great food. :biggrin:

Some of us who remember a a less "convenient" France also think of that time as a the "good old days."

Robert Buxbaum

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Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

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"Courtepaille is not that bad for the price and the convenience." (My emphasis.) Bear in mind that this is an English language web site and many, if not most, of the participants have to go out of their way to just be in France. We don't go to France for the convenience, we go for great food.  :biggrin:

Some of us who remember a a less "convenient" France also think of that time as a the "good old days.

I was never suggesting Courtepaille as a destination. It was just an example of an American-type prepared steak in France. I was letting anyone who didn't know and had a craving for steak, to be aware that what they will be getting in a typical French restaurant is a pan-fried variety. I happen to enjoy it prepared this way, particularly because it is so different from what we get here. Some, however, like my friend that I mentioned above, will take great umbrage at this preparation and be quite disappointed.

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"Courtepaille is not that bad for the price and the convenience." (My emphasis.) Bear in mind that this is an English language web site and many, if not most, of the participants have to go out of their way to just be in France. We don't go to France for the convenience, we go for great food.  :biggrin:

Some of us who remember a a less "convenient" France also think of that time as a the "good old days."

Fair enough. I suppose on my trips to France I always assumed that I would be going back, which I will again and again unless something catastrophic happens, like I die or something. Convenience over quality isn't something I fall into lightly, especially when it comes to food. But when traveling with my children I've been known to embrace it at times as a godsend. I've never been one of those organized, prepared moms. Pack wholesome snacks for a long trip? What? :biggrin:

This reminds me when we were in the Beaujolais once with our then 1 1/2 year old daughter, we ran out of milk and didn't notice untill 10:00 PM and I asked my husband you mean EVERYTHING is closed, NOTHING is open. :huh: You can take the girl out of the city, but the city out of the girl? I love the good old days more in theory sometimes because I'm not always prepared to practice it when my six year old is whining and my two year old is having a typical toddler moment.

I think that Melton and I tried to explain the context in which Courtepaille might be okay. We never said it was GOOD. :biggrin:

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"Courtepaille is not that bad for the price and the convenience." (My emphasis.) Bear in mind that this is an English language web site and many, if not most, of the participants have to go out of their way to just be in France. We don't go to France for the convenience, we go for great food.  :biggrin:

Some of us who remember a a less "convenient" France also think of that time as a the "good old days."

Fair enough. I suppose on my trips to France I always assumed that I would be going back, which I will again and again unless something catastrophic happens, like I die or something. Convenience over quality isn't something I fall into lightly, especially when it comes to food. But when traveling with my children I've been known to embrace it at times as a godsend. I've never been one of those organized, prepared moms. Pack wholesome snacks for a long trip? What? :biggrin:

This reminds me when we were in the Beaujolais once with our then 1 1/2 year old daughter, we ran out of milk and didn't notice untill 10:00 PM and I asked my husband you mean EVERYTHING is closed, NOTHING is open. :huh: You can take the girl out of the city, but the city out of the girl? I love the good old days more in theory sometimes because I'm not always prepared to practice it when my six year old is whining and my two year old is having a typical toddler moment.

I think that Melton and I tried to explain the context in which Courtepaille might be okay. We never said it was GOOD. :biggrin:

I think that most of us do understand the context of this thread. I doubt that any of us could say that we have never had a turnpike moment, when any clean, dry haven looked like a god-send. In fact, I dearly wish there were a Courtepaille on the Pennsylvania Turnpike between Philadelphia and Harrisburg! :blink: And, yes, as Menton points out, many Amercans assume that they are "safe" when they order a "steak" in France, only to find that even that simple plate has cultural overtones. Thanks for the input.

eGullet member #80.

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Bear in mind that this is an English language web site and many, if not most, of the participants have to go out of their way to just be in France. We don't go to France for the convenience, we go for great food.  :biggrin:

Some of us who remember a a less "convenient" France also think of that time as a the "good old days."

This has started to drift a little from the opening theme but I can't but add to what Bux has said.

With a minimal effort, you can generally do much better than Courtpaille. Just leave the motorway and you can usually find something more authentic, better priced and higher quality within 5 minutes even if the standard is a bit routine for France. You will eat somewhere that is run by somebody for whom cooking and serving food is a way of life rather a business. These are the kind of places which eGullet people should support - even if all that's needed is a quick meal to break a long journey.

Take an hour for lunch rather 20 minutes - you'll arrive fresher at your destination and you'll have taken more pleasure from your day.

There's little point in listing such places because they are to be found everywhere.

I can only throw in a personal choice. Several time a year we go by car from Belgium to Languedoc. Common sense says to break the 1,000 km journey overnight but it does not always work out that way so the driving is shared between two. We try to start early and make Tournus around lunch time - take Exit 27 and there are several inexpensive places within a km. They are kid friendly, quick and cheap. You can also generally get a great Charolais steak around there. The only restaint is that lunch time finishes early in most of central France.

With a bit of effort, you don't really need to compromise.

Edited by kerriar (log)
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With a minimal effort, you can generally do much better than Courtpaille. Just leave the motorway and you can usually find something more authentic, better priced and higher quality within 5 minutes even if the standard is a bit routine for France. You will eat somewhere that is run by somebody for whom cooking and serving food is a way of life rather a business. These are the kind of places which eGullet people should support - even if all that's needed is a quick meal to break a long journey.

Take an hour for lunch rather 20 minutes - you'll arrive fresher at your destination and you'll have taken more pleasure from your day.

Right, I couldn't agree more. And in addition to the big summary map in front of the Michelin red, often the agglomeration (local) maps Michelin has, show restos within and outside 30 minutes of the city center; thus if driving from X to Y and by Z, you can often find good food just off the big routes. I must say my one meal at Courtpaille cured me of any wish for a repeat experience.

John Talbott

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You can also generally get a great Charolais steak around there.

The real point of this thread was that many of us, including me, enjoy the French pan-fried steak preparation. Don't any other Egulleters also enjoy the pan-fried steak to be found everywhere in France?

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In general, I'd say I prefer the pan fried steak as the French do it. For years I would have it no other way, though I've learned to like the grilled steak as well. It's a matter of cut and thickness among other things. Variety is of course, one of those other things.

Perhaps it's my interest in variety that leads me to pass the chains and stop at the independents, even it the quality is lower at the mom and pop restaurant.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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"They're usually off autoroutes for crying out loud."

Actually I think they are ONLY found off autoroutes. Double-yak!

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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You can also generally get a great Charolais steak around there.

The real point of this thread was that many of us, including me, enjoy the French pan-fried steak preparation. Don't any other Egulleters also enjoy the pan-fried steak to be found everywhere in France?

I'm not a big meat eater, mostly vegetarian. I never order steak in America, I can't even remember the last time I went to a steak house here, maybe 15 years ago as a group outing. Anyway, I prefer the French pan-fried steaks. Mostly for lunch. I find it quite filling so I don't usually order it for dinner, because I prefer more courses for that.

A plat du jour with a steak at a brasserie is tasty, filling, convenient, inexpensive and certainly not a compromise. :biggrin: Charolais beef is great, but sometimes instead of foie gras I want chicken liver.

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"They're usually off autoroutes for crying out loud."

Actually I think they are ONLY found off autoroutes. Double-yak!

Which is where they belong! :laugh: And alot of them seem to be next to really inexpensive motel type lodgings.

If you only knew what's next to equivilant type places in America. :shock:

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Oh, but I DO know.

Anti-alcoholics are unfortunates in the grip of water, that terrible poison, so corrosive that out of all substances it has been chosen for washing and scouring, and a drop of water added to a clear liquid like Absinthe, muddles it." ALFRED JARRY

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"Courtepaille is not that bad for the price and the convenience." (My emphasis.) Bear in mind that this is an English language web site and many, if not most, of the participants have to go out of their way to just be in France. We don't go to France for the convenience, we go for great food.  :biggrin:

Some of us who remember a a less "convenient" France also think of that time as a the "good old days."

English as lingua franca? I thought it was supposed to be an International site in spirit and theory... maybe practice too? It's an experiment in pluralism, non? And this can happen in French or English.

I can be reached via email chefzadi AT gmail DOT com

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While this is starting to get off topic, I will say that yes, this is a site dedicated to internationalism and cultural pluralism, but English is the lingua franca of the site :smile:

Getting back on topic - as far as the steaks - Vive le difference! I love both styles! I prefer the French way for more delicate cuts like filet mignon, but a nice grilling for a strip steak or porterhouse.

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

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I wish I could add more to this discussion. I never got used to steak restaurants in the U.S. so I can't be sure what people coming here as visitors expect out of a steak when they order one here. I do know that the cuts are different, and not all steaks served in France are pan fried. There are a lot of restaurants that grill them. The French go for flavor over quantity, generally, so the steaks here are not big thick slabs of ultra lean meat, but will be the more flavorful cuts and generally have some marbling and won't be trimmed of all of their fat.

We recently had a post-ski steak experience just outside of Grenoble where the restaurant has a huge wood burning fireplace in the center with a grill built over the flames where they cooked all the meats. The tables all radiate from the fireplace, and one wall of the restaurant basically makes up the chimney. I felt it was very good, it seemed a better than average steak experience in France for me. Most of the little places serving meals in the city centers where you may order a steak are not equipped with grills, and you will get a fried steak in that case.

Nothing beats a good steak frites from time to time. :biggrin:

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