Inexpensive French eateries

[Pan]

You know what we may be lacking in New York? Places with good down-home French (Belgian, etc.) food that are inexpensive. Know any? You know, where you can hearty comfort food like Boeuf a la Flamande, Coq au Vin, Daube a la Provencale, Bouillabaisse, plus a soup and salad without spending more than, say, $30 (pushing the concept of "inexpensive" a little). The thread on out of style foods reminded me of some of these things. How about a meal of Quiche Lorraine, Coq au Vin, plus a dessert? Less than $50 anywhere? Soupe d'Oignon, salad, and Daube. Less than $60? Is there a reason why French food has to be expensive in New York? Isn't someone missing a niche?

[Fat Guy]

I know what you mean. The city is swimming in "brasseries" and "bistros" that serve very little actual classic French food. The West 40s and 50s used to be rife with old-school and inexpensive French places, many of which derived from the ocean liner business in that part of town (the French Line in particular). There are still some that continue in the same tradition.

The cheapest I know of is Les Sans Culottes, where the prix fixe lunch is $12.95 and includes an appetizer spread of crudite, pate maison and dry sausages; a main course from a long list of classic French dishes (e.g., boeuf Bourgignon, riz de veau, frog legs with tomato and garlic); and dessert. Is it the best food in the world? No. But it is hearty, economical and tasty.

Higher up on the food chain, but still quite reasonable, is Pierre au Tunnel. The same family owns Rene Pujol, which is a bit more upscale but still economical enough at lunchtime. Also in that neighborhood is the stalwart Chez Napoleon, which is well priced.

There are also old-school inexpensive French places here and there around town. It would be great to get a list going.

[Pan]

I'm glad to have those recommendations. I've been to Les Sans Culottes, and that's OK for a bite if you're hungry and there's one nearby, but that's far as I'd go, based on admittedly limited experience eating there (I remember a dinner at one on something like 42nd and 2nd). Lots of food and some cheap wine, though, in reasonably pleasant surroundings. But those other places look like they might be worth a subway ride.

[Moopheus]

L'Ecole, at the French Culinary Institute, serves a rotating menu of traditional regional French dishes. $30 or so for a 4 or 5 course menu seems pretty cheap for what you get (but then, the kitchen staff pays to work there!)

[zeitoun]

I've always thought highly of Bacchus on Atlantic Ave and Bond St. in Brooklyn. The food they prepare is not pretentious and I think does certainly fit in the good down home french category. They serve French classics such as Lapin a la Moutarde, Coq au Vin, Boeuf Bourguignon, Daube Provencale, Steak frites, Steak Tartare, Assiette de Charcuteries, etc... at a more than reasonable fare. Their wine list features a good selection of french wines at affordable prices from small growers. The owner always makes you feel welcome. It may not be excellent, but for good, solid and inexpensive, I highly recommend it.

Edited February 22, 2005 by zeitoun (log)

[Brooklyn]

I think Tout Va Bien is a fun place to eat... been there for 60 years and has some amazing Beef Borguinone. I like to go around Beajoulais Nouveau time in November - it is a real party! 51th street West of 8th ave.

[rich]

I agree with FG on Pierre au Tunnel, but I would also add La Luncheonette, La Petite Auberge and the very, very old standby Le Boeuf a la Mode. The latter is probably a little more expensive than the others, but still very reasonable.

If you want take a short trip to Long Island City try Tournesol.

[jeffperez62]

Had a nice dinner at Jean Claude down on Sulivan st. Sunday night. I had the Goat cheese salad with olive vinaigrette followed by skate. My wife had seared scallops salad and a nice piece of cod as an entree. We had a bottle of Rhone, 2 tea's and a tart tatin $103 for 2 people...not bad!

[lambretta76]

The aforementioned Bacchus has two-for-one entreés (in the American sense, not French) on Wednesday nights - two steak frites, two glasses of wine, and a shared dessert comes to $32 without tax/tip on those nights... Absolutely brilliant. Great food, too.

Though not classically French, 360 in Red Hook, with their $20-$25 three-course prix fixe dinners, is a great value.

[zeitoun]

Though not classically French, 360 in Red Hook, with their $20-$25 three-course prix fixe dinners, is a great value.

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Just a quick note about 360: I met Bill, the current chef, about two years ago after he finished a one year stint at Wallse, he is a great guy, very talented and has an incredible passion for what he does. I have been to 360 a few times since he took over the kitchen in December, the menu he offers for the price is exceptional. Also, the owner was sommelier in NY for many years at a high end establishment. He has an incredible list of French wine bottles in the $20 to $30 range. His wines come from small growers only and close to half of what he has is not available anywhere else in NY.

Great place, thanks for mentionning it.

[Pan]

Glad to read all these entries. Some of these places really push past inexpensive, though. The thing is, when I took a friend to L'Ecole for his birthday several years ago, I can't remember whether we had wine and that's what pushed up the cost to something like $112 for two people, but that is not inexpensive to me in the least. I didn't care at the time because it was a birthday gift, but I remember feeling like it was alright but I wasn't in a rush to return -- and haven't. I had forgotten about La Petite Auberge. [Edit: I realize now that I'm remembering another place -- a small chain called La Petite Abeille or L'Abeille, and I think it's Belgian.] I remember finding the food good and definitely felt it was a good value, and if it wasn't the most exciting thing I ever had, who was complaining at those prices? Bacchus definitely sounds interesting to me. I think that was the place where I heard some interesting jazz playing, I think on Wednesdays last semester, but had already eaten dinner. I think I'll go there after work some night. How likely am I to get in there as a singleton on a spur of the moment (i.e. without reservations) around 8:30-9:30? What about eating at the bar?

Edited March 10, 2005 by Pan (log)

[zeitoun]

How likely am I to get in there as a singleton on a spur of the moment (i.e. without reservations) around 8:30-9:30? What about eating at the bar?

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I must have gone to Bacchus close to 6 or 7 times since it opened a few years ago, always without a reservation. I haven't been in the past year or so but I would think that on a week day you won't have any difficulties. I am pretty sure you can also eat at the bar.

[rstarobi]

La Bonne Soupe, between 5th and 6th on 55th is very affordable, and has been solid every time I've gone.

[gbauer]

I have had several good lunches at Montparnasse, on E 51st. They have a $20 lunch with choices that include duck terrine as a starter and coq au vin or steak frites as a main course. (The coq au vin is $19 at dinner). When I have lunch here, I am usually so full I skip dinner.

[ewindels]

TARTINE!

[Bux]

. . .  I can't remember whether we had wine and that's what pushed up the cost to something like $112 for two people, but that is not inexpensive to me in the least.  . . .

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There's the rub. No meal is authentically French for me unless it includes at least a half bottle of wine and it's getting hard to find a drinkable bottle for less than $30 these days. I haven't been to l'Ecole in years, but I seem to recall it's low end of the wine list was neither inviting nor all that low and ate up a bit of the value I perceived from the food.

There's some inherent unfairness in this. I'm sure that when I was eating inexpensive meals with carafes of wine in France in the 60's, I was far more tolerant of of inferior wine than I am now.

[menton1]

Actually, the reason there are so few old-school French restaurants in NY is that the style is basically passé, IMHO. In France the trend is also away from these type places to a more modern, bistro-like approach.

One of the holdovers from a different era, that hasn't changed at all in 40 years, from the food to the decor, is a little place called Pergola des Artistes, run by a family from Normandy. You will get classic dishes here at very low prices. Even the atmosphere is from the 60s!!

Pergola des Artistes

252 West 46th Street

212-302-7500

[Pan]

I've passed that place many times but have never gone in. Glad to have the recommendation.

[Fat Guy]

Wow, I haven't thought about that place in ages -- I can't believe it's still there! They've even gone digital: http://www.pergoladesartistes.com

I agree that much of this kind of food is passe, but more in the sense of being out of fashion than being worn out. When made well, this sort of food is delicious -- it doesn't get any less delicious just because the recipes are old.

[menton1]

I've passed that place many times but have never gone in. Glad to have the recommendation.

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Well, Pan, I can't say that I was recommending the place-- I actually prefer the more modern style of bistro in the fashion of Le Madeleine, for example...

However, I was there once, and I remember the food was rather tasty (lots of those sauces!) and the proprietor is quite nice-- the only thing really troublesome is the decor, which is a flashback of 40 years ago-- a bit of faded glory (like Venice?) Also, the place basically is only pre-Theater, at 8PM they are ready to put the chairs on the tables...

[Pan]

Well, I'd love to have recommendations of modern-style bistros, too, especially if they're economical.

[Fat Guy]

One problem New York restaurants have in creating economical menus is that New Yorkers (and Americans in general) are too finicky. A huge percentage of the people in most any New York restaurant's client base believe they're allergic to things they aren't allergic to, are on one or another fad diet at any given time and have wacky beliefs about why some foods are "icky" and others aren't. As a result, it's not really possible for restaurants these days to offer a very economical set menu where there are no choices or just two or three choices. Could you imagine? Everybody would be asking for this and that on the side, substitutions, etc., and would become indignant at the slightest sign of resistance -- by the standards of the local market it's just not possible to have very strict set menus. Whereas, in France, when people go into a restaurant like that they just eat what's on the day's menu and shut up. Duck? Eels? Whatever! They don't give a damn so long as it's good food and a good value.

[Pan]

I take your point, Steven.

[menton1]

Well, I'd love to have recommendations of modern-style bistros, too, especially if they're economical.

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I think there was a recent extensive bistro thread... (Started by moi!! )

[alacarte]

L'Express -- Park Ave South & 19th Street. They have rillettes, croque monsieur et madame, quiche, etc. at reasonable prices.

However, they never seem to have croissants in stock. Go figure.