THE BEST: Chinese Dumplings

[Fat Guy]

Fat Guy, have you tried the soup dumplings at Yeah?

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Nah.

[JennyUptown]

<green with envy>

I hope you all know how good you have it in NYC re: dumplings (and Chinese food overall). We have virtually no good options here in DC.

[Pan]

Come up and visit us some time, Jenny!

Fat Guy, I do recommend the soup dumplings at Yeah, though I think China 46 -- out there in the Midwestern corn fields -- has better ones.

[slkinsey]

Well... it's mixing species to compare soup dumplings with the kind of (usually) fried dunplings to which this thread is dedicated.

What do we think are the characteristics that make a really good Chinese dumpling? For me, the filling should be fine and flavorful, but a lot of the action is in the wrapper. It needs to be thin and, if fried, it should be crisp rather than simply browned. Nothing is worse than a thick, gummy, filling wrapper on a Chinese dumpling -- something that seems especially common with steamed vegetable dumplings. What's the deal with that? Does anyone make a truly outstanding vegetable dumpling? And for God's sake, why aren't they fried?!

I think the New Green Bo fried dumplings are particularly outstanding. The wrapper is nicely thin, so it isn't too filling (you would underdstand why this is important if you ever saw how much food Fat Guy and I order when we go there together). The dumplings are deliciously crisp on the bottom, and yet not greasy. And I also like their long-and-skinny approach in contrast to the more common short-and-lumpy shape -- it maximizes the ratio of crispy wrapper to filling, much like the baguette's shape maximizes the ratio oif crust to crumb. This shape would be a disaster with a thicker wrapper, but works just right at NGB.

[jogoode]

One great thing about Dumpling House's fried dumplings, and this might also apply to NGB's, but I don't remember, is that they have some of the juiciness of soup dumplings. I imagine that they use the same technique of adding frozen or solidified stock to the filling.

[slkinsey]

My guess is that they just use fatty pork. When you're selling dumplings five for a dollar and making a living, I don't think you're bumping up your food cost with jellied stock.

[jogoode]

My guess is that they just use fatty pork.  When you're selling dumplings five for a dollar and making a living, I don't think you're bumping up your food cost with jellied stock.

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Fatty pork? All the better...

But do you really think it significantly increases their food cost? Soup dumplings don't usually cost much more than fried dumplings, do they?

[slkinsey]

My guess is that they just use fatty pork.  When you're selling dumplings five for a dollar and making a living, I don't think you're bumping up your food cost with jellied stock.

Fatty pork? All the better...

But do you really think it significantly increases their food cost? Soup dumplings don't usually cost much more than fried dumplings, do they?

Hmmm... Hard to say. My impression is that they're comparatively more expensive for the amount of food you get. But it's hard to say with any certainty. My point was more that the five for a dollar places are likely operating on a low margin and have to keep their costs down as much as possible.

[JennyUptown]

Come up and visit us some time, Jenny!

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I am due for a visit soon. Maybe we'll do a dumpling tour.

I used to order from Buddha House in GV...they were more of a habit than "good." Usually they tasted alright, but every once in awhile...mystery hard chunk.

[Pan]

What's GV, Jenny?

[Pan]

[...]

What do we think are the characteristics that make a really good Chinese dumpling?  For me, the filling should be fine and flavorful, but a lot of the action is in the wrapper.  It needs to be thin and, if fried, it should be crisp rather than simply browned.  Nothing is worse than a thick, gummy, filling wrapper on a Chinese dumpling -- something that seems especially common with steamed vegetable dumplings.[...]

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I agree, Sam, but I'd emphasize the filling more than you are. You're right that a thick, pasty wrap can screw up a dumpling even if the filling is good, but it's so common to get vegetable dumplings that are insipid. I like a nice variety of finely diced, fresh-tasting vegetables (some can be dried-reconstituted if sufficiently tender) in the filling, including a good hit of mushrooms, and some clear noodles are nice.

Also, the wrapper should be thin but shouldn't self-destruct immediately when the dumpling is picked up with chopsticks and produce a mess (though that's forgivable if the filling tastes good).

I don't think I've had great vegetable dumplings on this side of the Pacific (try some on your first trip to Malaysia, China, or some other East or Southeast Asian country some time, and it may well be a revelation to you), but I like the ones at Nice because I enjoy the peanuts they include in the filling. Unfortunately, the rest of the dim sum on offer at Nice hasn't led me to conclude that they're one of the best dim-sum-in-carts places in Manhattan (to be fair, it's been a while, though), but the strength of their regular dishes helps, if you decide to order a big plate or two during your dim sum lunch.

[JennyUptown]

Sorry, Greenwich Village. It was, I believe, on Carmine.

[slkinsey]

Whew! I was beginning to think you meant the Hotel Gansevoort.

[Pan]

Sorry, Greenwich Village.  It was, I believe, on Carmine.

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Thanks, Jenny. Greenwich Village is just "The Village" to us natives.

But anyway, carry on . . .

[Gastro888]

Come up and visit us some time, Jenny!

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I am due for a visit soon. Maybe we'll do a dumpling tour.

I used to order from Buddha House in GV...they were more of a habit than "good." Usually they tasted alright, but every once in awhile...mystery hard chunk.

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Maybe 'cause it was a piece of gristle?

[baconburner]

Hi slkinsey

You have to schedule a trip to Vancouver, B.C. My wife used to work for a high level Pres who had lived in the far east and his opinion was that the food here excellent. Lots of competition keeps the quality up and prices level. Sun Sui Wah, Pink Pearl and Floata just to mention a few. This is a city where you don't say "do you want Chinese food? But What region or type!

Cheers

Baconburner.

[eatingwitheddie]

NY'S BEST DUMPLINGS: THE FACTS OF THE MATTER

When they take time to cook them properly the fried dumplings at NEW GREEN BO are terrific and as good as you will find (anywhere). You may find equally good, or good but different, but not better. I find their Shao Lung Bao (soup dumplings) to be good but not as good, especially the crab variety which lacks the suave rich quality the filling of a great crab and pork soup dumpling can have. I prefer those at Joe's Ginger for the quality of the broth and filling. In Shanghai the best soup dumplings (we're talking the Nanxiang Dumpling House in Yu Yuan gardens) are smaller, more delicate and richly flavored.

As far as NYC dim sum making goes, by far the best dumplings in NYC in many, many years are at Brooklyn's NEW TONG WORLD SEAFOOD RESTAURANT - 62nd St.& 18th Ave. (formerly known as Oceanport). This dim sum would be close to the top of the best list in Hong Kong, Guangzhou or Vancouver! No doubt about it. Also try the cooked-to-order dim sum at Sweet & Tart (20 Mott or Flushing/38th Av). In particular the Shrimp & Watercress dumplings served in broth are top shelf.

[Bux]

I never met a dumpling I didn't like. That makes me either over qualified for this topic, or just plain unqualified, but I will admit to enjoying the really thick skinned and very filling dumplings at place that I believe was called Dumpling House, somewhere near, or perhaps exactly in the same spot, where Joe's Shanghai is now.

The five for a dollar dumplings from the place who's name is the sign that identifies the product is such an inconsistently cooked product, that some days, five is all I can eat. They're usually stuck together or with torn wrappers and the lack of visual appear and the need to use a plastic fork detracts from the taste. Sue me if your taste is only affected by your tongue and nose. I often find their wrappers rather rubbery as well. presumably from reheating or sitting around.

Don't underestimate the effects of a mouthful of flavorful melted pork fat. I understand it tastes even better if you can convince yourself it's jellied stock. Fatty pork at my butcher is about one third less than lean pork. If all you sell is pork dumplings, that's got to be a good savings, especially when the final dumpling appears more flavorful. The less expensive dumplings may actually taste better because they're cheaper.

The average boiled vegetable dumpling is a dieter's dream. Not only is there no meat or fat, it's so banal that you can hardly finish the first batch. The not so secret appeal of a place like Dim Sum GoGo is not in their fried dumpling. It's a loser in my experience. Their vegetable dumplings are winners. First of all, I don't think they make a "vegetable" dumpling. They make at least six or eight, and maybe more, varieties and they all have names. They bear the name of the priciple ingredient, or some other fanciful name if they have a stuffing of composed of multiple ingredients in balance. These are not the generic afterthoughts most vegetable dumplings appear to be. Anyway, steamed dumplings are Dim Sum GoGo's forte and by and large they are a different animal than your average steamed or boiled dumpling, and even more so in regard to fried dumplings. They probably shoudn't be judged next to fried dumplings any more than hot dogs should be in competition with hamburgers. The are precious in the way that the food at Cafe Gray is precious next to Peter Lugar's. They are not better, but they are finer. There are many people here on this board who can tell you that haute cuisine is just food that's been made silly at best and refined past the point of any value.

[jogoode]

NY'S BEST DUMPLINGS: THE FACTS OF THE MATTER

When they take time to cook them properly the fried dumplings at NEW GREEN BO are terrific and as good as you will find (anywhere). You may find equally good, or good but different, but not better. I find their Shao Lung Bao (soup dumplings) to be good but not as good, especially the crab variety which lacks the suave rich quality the filling of a great crab and pork soup dumpling can have. I prefer those at Joe's Ginger for the quality of the broth and filling. In Shanghai the best soup dumplings (we're talking the Nanxiang Dumpling House in Yu Yuan gardens) are smaller, more delicate and richly flavored.

As far as NYC dim sum making goes, by far the best dumplings in NYC in many, many years  are at Brooklyn's NEW TONG WORLD SEAFOOD RESTAURANT - 62nd St.& 18th Ave. (formerly known as Oceanport). This dim sum would be close to the top of the best list in Hong Kong, Guangzhou or Vancouver! No doubt about it. Also try the cooked-to-order dim sum at Sweet & Tart (20 Mott or Flushing/38th Av). In particular the Shrimp & Watercress dumplings served in broth are top shelf.

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So when are we going?

[SethG]

As far as NYC dim sum making goes, by far the best dumplings in NYC in many, many years  are at Brooklyn's NEW TONG WORLD SEAFOOD RESTAURANT - 62nd St.& 18th Ave. (formerly known as Oceanport). This dim sum would be close to the top of the best list in Hong Kong, Guangzhou or Vancouver! No doubt about it. Also try the cooked-to-order dim sum at Sweet & Tart (20 Mott or Flushing/38th Av). In particular the Shrimp & Watercress dumplings served in broth are top shelf.

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This is the same place I mentioned above at post #9 of this thread. The link in that post to the Times article about the restaurant still works.

[chefreit]

Not soup dumplings -- I'm talking about the fried or steamed Chinese dumplings filled with pork and/or vegetables.  Who makes the best?  I've got my favorites, but I want to hear from you.

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On the corner of Mott St., I think it is Hop Sing or Woo Hop.

On the side is a little stand, that this women used to sell hot asian sweet ????? idun know but they are good!

Can somebody help me here?!

Anybody

JP

FG

HELP!

[Bux]

On the corner of Mott St., I think it is Hop Sing or Woo Hop.

On the side is a little stand, that this women used to sell hot asian sweet ????? idun know but they are good!

Can somebody help me here?!

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On the corner of Mosco Street (or is it alley, or is it even Mosco)? Are you referring the woman selling "hot cakes?" There are a number of stands around selling these litte balls of pancake or waffle batter. They're always sold as "hot cakes" -- sometimes as "Hong Kong hot cakes" -- although once I noticed a stand where they were being made faster than they were being sold and little bags of them were piling up. It occured to me that they weren't selling like hot cakes.

[chefreit]

On the corner of Mott St., I think it is Hop Sing or Woo Hop.

On the side is a little stand, that this women used to sell hot asian sweet ????? idun know but they are good!

Can somebody help me here?!

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On the corner of Mosco Street (or is it alley, or is it even Mosco)? Are you referring the woman selling "hot cakes?" There are a number of stands around selling these litte balls of pancake or waffle batter. They're always sold as "hot cakes" -- sometimes as "Hong Kong hot cakes" -- although once I noticed a stand where they were being made faster than they were being sold and little bags of them were piling up. It occured to me that they weren't selling like hot cakes.

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Well Bux,

I was referring to the dim sum, and got caught-up in the sub referencing.

However, I have found it.

BTW,

I get the impression that you don't like asian hot cakes.

Sun Hop Shing Tea House 21 Mott St (212) 962-8650

[Fat Guy]

I believe you're referring to the "egg cake lady" at the corner of Mott and Mosco Streets, technically the Hong Kong Egg Cake Company.

[jogoode]

Not soup dumplings -- I'm talking about the fried or steamed Chinese dumplings filled with pork and/or vegetables.  Who makes the best?  I've got my favorites, but I want to hear from you.

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On the corner of Mott St., I think it is Hop Sing or Woo Hop.

On the side is a little stand, that this women used to sell hot asian sweet ????? idun know but they are good!

Can somebody help me here?!

Anybody

JP

FG

HELP!

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I had some turnip cake around there on Friday after a trip to Bangkok Grocery, that great little Thai grocer on Mosco. I also grabbed a few dumplings from the branch of Fried Dumpling on Mosco. The awful specimens I had confirmed what Steven wrote somewhere upthread: If you go to the 5-for-a-dollar places when they're busy and get dumplings straight from the skillet, you're golden. If the dumplings have been sitting around for a while, as mine clearly had been on Friday...